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ALASKA

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Originally appearing in Volume V01, Page 478 of the 1911 Encyclopedia Britannica.
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ALASKA  , formerly called See also:

RUSSIAN See also:AMERICA, a See also:district of the See also:United States of America, occupying the extreme See also:north-western See also:part of North America and the adjacent islands . The name is a corruption of a native word possibly meaning " See also:main-See also:land " or " See also:peninsula." The district of Alaska comprises, first, all that part of the See also:continent W. of the 141st See also:meridian of W. See also:longitude from See also:Greenwich; secondly, the eastern Diomede See also:island in See also:Bering Strait, and all islands in Bering See also:Sea and the Aleutian See also:chain lying E. of a See also:line See also:drawn from the See also:Diomedes to pass midway between See also:Copper Island, off See also:Kamchatka, and Attu Island of the Aleutians; thirdly, a narrow See also:strip of See also:coast and adjacent islands N. of a line drawn from Cape Muzon, in See also:lat . 540 40' N., E. and N. up See also:Portland See also:Canal to its See also:head, and thence, as defined in the treaty of cession to the United States, quoting a boundary treaty of 1825 between See also:Great See also:Britain and See also:Russia, following " the See also:summit of the mountains situated parallel to the coast " to the141st meridian, provided that when such line runs more than ten marine leagues from the ocean the limit " shall be formed by a line parallel to the windings of the coast and which shall never exceed the distance of ten marine leagues therefrom." The See also:international disputes connected with this description are referred to below . See also:Physical Features.—Alaska is bounded on the N. by the See also:Arctic Ocean, on the W. by the Arctic Ocean and Bering Strait, on the S. and S.W. by the Gulf of Alaska and the Pacific Ocean, and on the E. by See also:Yukon Territory and See also:British See also:Columbia . It consists of a compact central See also:mass and two straggling appendages See also:running from its S.W. and S.E. corners, and sweeping in a vast arc over 16 degrees of See also:latitude and 58 degrees of longitude . These three parts will be referred to hereafter respectively, as See also:Continental Alaska, Aleutian Alaska and the " Panhandle." The range of latitude from Point See also:Barrow in the Arctic Ocean to Cape Muzon is almost 19 degrees—as great as from New See also:Orleans to See also:Duluth; the range of longitude from Attu Island to the head of Portland Canal is 58 degrees—considerably greater than from New See also:York to See also:San Francisco . The See also:total See also:area is about 586,400 sq. m . The See also:general ocean-coast line is about 4950 m., and, including the islands, bays, inlets and See also:rivers to the head of See also:tide See also:water, is about 26,000 m. in length (U.S . Coast Survey 1889) . The entire See also:southern coast is very irregular in outline; it is precipitous, with only very slight stretches of See also:beach or See also:plain . Its See also:elevation gradually decreases as one travels W. toward the Aleutians . A great submarine See also:platform extends throughout a large part of Bering Sea .

The western and See also:

northern coasts are See also:regular in outline with See also:long straight beaches; and shallows are See also:common in the seas that See also:wash them . On the Arctic there is a broad coastal plain . Of the islands of Alaska the more important are: at the S.E. extremity and lying See also:close inland, the See also:Alexander See also:Archipelago, whose See also:principal islands from N.W. to S.E. are Chicagof, Baranof, See also:Admiralty, Kupreanof, Kuiu, See also:Prince of See also:Wales (the largest of the archipelago and of all the islands about Alaska, measuring about 140 M. in length and 40 M. in width), Etolin and See also:Revillagigedo; S.W. of the mainland, two See also:groups--(x) Kodiak, whose largest island, of the same name, is 40 M. by See also:loo m., and may be considered a continuation of the Kenai Peninsula, and whose W. continuation, S. of Alaska Peninsula, consists of the Semidi, Shumagin and Sannak clusters; (2) the Aleutian Islands (q.v.) sweeping 1200 M . W.S.W. from the end of Alaska Peninsula, W. of the mainland, in Bering Sea, the Pribilof Islands, about 500 M . S. of Cape Prince of Wales, the small See also:Hall and St See also:Matthew Islands, about 170 m . S.W. of the same cape, St See also:Lawrence Island (too m. and 10 to 30 M. wide), which is about See also:half way between the last mentioned pair of islets and Cape Prince of Wales and Nunivak Island, near the mainland and due E. of St Matthew; and in the See also:middle of Bering Strait the Diomede Islands, which belong in part to Russia . Very little was known about Alaska previous to 1896, when the See also:gold discoveries in the See also:Klondike stimulated public See also:interest regarding it . Since 1895, however, the explorations of the United States See also:Geological Survey and the See also:Department of See also:War, and other departments of the See also:government, have fully established the main features of its physiography . It has mountains, plateaus and lowlands on a See also:grand See also:scale . " In a broad way, the larger features of See also:topography correspond with those of the western states . There is a Pacific See also:Mountain See also:system, a Central See also:Plateau region, a Rocky Mountain system, and a Great Plains region . These four divisions are well marked, and show the close geographic relation of this area to the southern part of the continent." The orographic features of the Pacific Mountain system trend parallel to the coast-line of the Gulf of Alaska, changing with this at the great See also:bend beyond the N., and of the Panhandle from S.E. and N.W. to N.E. and S.W. and running through the Alaska Peninsula .

The Pacific Mountain system includes four ranges . The Coast . Range of the Panhandle attains a width of too m., but has no well-defined See also:

crest line . The range is characterized by the uniformity of summit levels between s000 and 6000 ft . Continuing the Coast Range, with which it is closely associated—the See also:Chilkat See also:river lies between them—is the St See also:Elias Range (a See also:term now used to include not only the mountains between See also:Cross See also:Sound and Mt . St Elias, but the Chugach, Kenai, Skolai and Nutzotin mountains); among its peaks are: Mt . Crillon (15,900 ft.), Mt . Fairweather (15,290 ft.), Mt . See also:Vancouver (r5,666 ft.), Mt . Wrangell (17,500 ft., an active See also:volcano) in the Nutzotin Mountains, Mt . St Elias (18,024 ft.) and, in See also:Canadian territory, Mt . See also:Logan (19,539 ft.) .

The Aleutian Range, of whose crest the Aleutian Islands are remnants, fills out the system near the coast . The Alaskan Range, connecting with the Nutzotin and Skolai branches of the St Elias Range, lies a little farther inland; it is splendidly marked by many snowy peaks, including Mt . See also:

Foraker (17,000 ft.) and Mt . See also:McKinley . The latter, which on the W. rises abruptly out of a marshy See also:country, offers the obstacles of magnificent, inaccessible See also:granite cliffs and large glaciers to the mountaineer; it is the loftiest See also:peak in North America (ca . 20,300 ft.) . In the Alaskan Range and the Aleutian Range there are more than a dozen live volcanoes, several of them remarkable; the latter range is composed largely of volcanic material . Evidences of very See also:recent volcanic activity are abundant about See also:Cook Inlet . The Rocky Mountain system extends from See also:Canada (the Yukon territory) into N.E . Alaska, which it crosses near the Arctic coast in a broad See also:belt composed of several ranges about 6000 ft. in See also:altitude . There is no well-defined crest line; the See also:axis of the system is roughly parallel to the Pacific Mountain system, but runs more nearly E. and W. in Alaska . Between the Pacific Mountain and the Rocky Mountain systems lies the vast Central Plateau region, or Yukon plateau, Finally, between the Rocky Mountains and the Arctic Ocean is the Arctic Slope region, a sloping plain corresponding to the interior plains of the United States .

First Physiographic Region.—The Panhandle is remarkably picturesque . The See also:

maze of islands, hundreds in number, of the Alexander Archipelago (area about 13,000 sq. m.) are remnants of a submerged mountain system; the islands rise 3000 to 5000 ft. above the sea, with luxuriantly wooded tops and bald, sheer sides scarred with marks of glacial See also:action; the beachless coast is only a narrow ledge between the mountains and the sea, and unlike the coast of See also:Norway, to which in outline it is not dissimilar, is bold, steep and craggy . Through the inner channels, sheltered from the Pacific by the island rampart, runs the " inland passage," the tourist route northward from See also:Seattle, See also:Washington . The inter-insular straits are carried up into the See also:shore as fjords heading in rivers and glaciers . Thus the Stikine river continues See also:Sumner Strait and the Taku continues Cross Sound . The Stikine, Taku and Alsek rivers all cross the mountains in deep-cut canyons . Everywhere the evidences of glacial action abound . Most remarkable are the inlets known as Portland Canal and See also:Lynn Canal (continuing See also:Chatham Strait) . The first is very deep, with precipitous shores and bordering mountains 5000 to 6000 ft. high; the second is a See also:noble See also:fjord Too m. long and on an See also:average 6 m. wide, with magnificent Alpine scenery . It is subject in See also:winter to storms of extraordinary violence, but is never closed by See also:ice . Both Portland Canal and Lynn Canal are of See also:historical importance, as the question of the true location of the first and the commercial importance to Canada or to the United States of the See also:possession of the second, were the See also:crucial contentions in the disputes over the Alaska-Canadian boundary . At the head of Lynn Canal, the only See also:place on the whole extent of the See also:south-eastern Alaskan coast where a clear-cut water-parting is exhibited between the sea-See also:board and interior drainage, the summits of the highest peaks in the Coast Range are 8000 to 9000 ft. above the sea .

See also:

White Pass (2888 ft.) and Chilkoot Pass (3500 ft.), at the head of the Lynn Canal, are the gateway to the See also:mining country of the Klondike and Upper Yukon . They are the highest points that one meets in travelling from See also:Skagway along the course of the Yukon to Bering Sea . See also:Prior to the opening (in See also:August 1900) of the railway between Skagway and White See also:Horse, Canada (rro m.), by way of the White Pass, all transportation to the interior was effected by men and See also:pack-animals (and for a See also:time by a system of telpherage) over these passes and the Chilkat or See also:Dalton trail; the buildingof the railway reduced See also:carriage rates to less than a tenth of their former value, and the Chilkat and Chilkoot Passes were no longer used . The coast region above the Panhandle shows on a smaller and diminishing scale the same characteristic features, gradually running into those of the Aleutians . Out of the Alaska and Nutzotin mountains two great rivers flow southward: the Copper, practically unnavigable except for small boats, because of its turbulence and the See also:discharge of glaciers into its See also:waters; and the Susitna, also practically unnavigable . Both of these rivers have their See also:sources in lofty mountain masses, and are See also:swift and powerful streams carrying with them much silt; their passes over the water-parting N. of the Kenai Peninsula are through See also:gorges from 4000 to 10,000 ft. in See also:depth . The Copper, the Susitna and its tributary, the Yentna, as well as the Skwentna, a tributary of the Yentna from the See also:west, all run through picturesque canyons, and their upper courses are characterized by glacial and torrential feeders . Their valleys are well timbered . The glaciers of the Panhandle and throughout the See also:rest of the Pacific region are most remarkable—extraordinary alike for their number and their See also:size . They See also:lie mainly between 56° and 61° N. lat., in a belt T000 m. long, of which the central part, some 350 or 500 M. long and 8o m. to too m. wide, has been described as one great confluent neve See also:field . Thousands of Alpine glaciers from one to fifteen See also:miles long fill the upper valleys and canyons of the mountains . More than a See also:hundred almost reach the sea, from which they are separated by detrital See also:lowland or terminal moraines .

Other glaciers are of the See also:

Piedmont type . Greatest of these and of Alaskan glaciers is the Malaspina, a vast elevated plateau of wasting ice, 1500 sq. m. in area (nearly a tenth the area of all See also:Switzerland), touching the sea at only one point, though fronting it for 50 M. behind a fringing See also:foreland of glacial debris . It is fed by Alpine glaciers, among them one of the grandest in Alaska, the See also:Seward, which descends from Mt . Logan . It is more than 50 M. long, and more than 3 M. broad at its narrowest point, and several times in its course flows over cascades, falling hundreds of feet . Of tide-water glaciers the most remarkable is probably the See also:Muir . It has an area of 350 sq. m.; the main See also:trunk, which is 30 to 40 M. broad, is fed by 26 tributaries, 20 of which are each greater than the Mer de Glace, and pushes its bergs into the sea from ice cliffs almost 2 M. wide, See also:standing too to 200 ft. above the water, and extending probably 700 to r000 ft. beneath its See also:surface . It has been calculated that the average daily discharge of the Muir in summer is 30,000,000 cubic ft . Its course, which is only about 13 m., has a slope of too ft. per mile, and the main current moves 7 ft. daily . The See also:character of the Muir was greatly altered by an See also:earthquake in '899 . There are some 30 tide-water glaciers—a considerable number of them very noteworthy . The Valdez is 30 M. long and 5000 ft. in altitude .

Most of the Alaskan glaciers are re-ceding, but not all of them; and at times there is a general advance . The Muir receded 1•6 m. from 1879-1890, the See also:

Childs about 600 yards in 17 years; others over 4, 7 or 10 M. in 20 years . The Aleutian Islands (q.v.), like the Alexander Archipelago, are remnants of a submerged mountain system . Their only remarkable features are the volcanoes on the easterly islands, already mentioned . Continental Alaska.—Continental Alaska in the interior is essentially a vast plateau . " The traveller between the main drainage areas of the interior is struck by the See also:uniform elevation of the interfluminal areas . Rounded hills, level meads and persistent See also:flat-topped ridges, composed of rocks of varying structure, rise to about the same level and give the impression that they are the remnants of a former continuous surface . Occasional limited areas of rugged mountains rise above this level, and innumerable stream valleys have been incised below it; but from the northern See also:base of the St Elias and Alaskan ranges to the southern foothills of the Rocky Mountain system, and throughout their length, the remnants of this See also:ancient level are to be seen . In height it varies from about 5000 ft. close to the bases of the mountain systems to less than 3000 ft. in the-vicinity of the main lines of drainage, and slopes gradually towards the north." The Seward Peninsula is particularly rugged . This great plateau drains westward through broad, gently flowing streams, the See also:net-See also:work of whose tributary waters penetrates every corner of the interior and offers easy means of communication . Both the main streams and the smaller tributaries often flow through deep canyons . The Yukon is one of the great drainage systems of the See also:world .

The Yukon itself has a length of more than 2000 M. and bisects the country from E. to W . Behind the bluffs that See also:

form in large part its immediate border its See also:basin is a See also:rolling country, at times sinking into great dead levels like the Yukon flats between Circle See also:City and the See also:Lower Ramparts, some 30,000 sq. m. in area . Of the two great affluents of the Yukon, the Tanana is for the most part unnavigable, while the Koyukuk is navigable for more than 450 m. by river steamers, and for more than 500 M. above is mouth shows no appreciable diminution in See also:volume . A See also:low water-parting divides the Yukon valley from the Kuskokwim, the second river of Alaska in size, navigable by steamers for 600 m . Torrential near its source, it is already a broad, sluggish stream at its confluence with the See also:East Kuskokwim . The tides rise 50 ft. near its mouth and the tide-head is roo m. above the mouth . Rocky Mountains.—The Rocky Mountain system in Alaska is higher and more complex than in Canada . About roo m. wide at the international boundary, where the peaks of the British Mountains on the N. and of the See also:Davidson Mountains on the S. are 7000 to 8000 ft. high, the system runs W.S.W. as the Endicott Mountains, two contiguous ranges of about 5000 to 6000 ft., and as these ranges See also:separate, the northern becomes the De Long, the southern the See also:Baird Mountains, whose elevation rapidly decreases toward the coast-line . The system is sharply defined on the north and less so on the south . Arctic Slope Region.—The Arctic Slope region is divided into the Anuktuvuk Plateau about 8o m. wide, with a maximum altitude to the S. of 2500 ft., and between the plateau and the Arctic Ocean the Coastal Plain . Very little is known of either part of the region . See also:Climate.—From the foregoing description of the country it is evident that the range of climate must be considerable .

That of the coast and that of the Yukon plateau are quite distinct . The Panhandle, along with the lisiere (foreland), westward to Cook Inlet might be called temperate Alaska, its climate being similar to that of the N.W. coast of the United States; while to the westward and northward the winters become longer and more severe . The cause of the mild climate of the Panhandle, formerly supposed to be the See also:

Japanese current, or Kuro Shiwo, is now held to be-the general eastward See also:drift of the waters of the North Pacific in the direction of the prevalent winds . To the warmth and moisture brought by this means the coastal region owes its high equable temperature, its heavy rainfall (8o-110 in.) and its superb vegetation . The mean See also:annual temperature is from 54° to 6o° F . Winter sets in about the sst of See also:December and the See also:snow is gone See also:save in the mountains by the 1st of May . The thermometer rarely registers below zero F. or above 75° F.; the difference between the midwinter and midsummer averages is seldom more than 250 . The summer is relatively dry, the autumn and winter wet . The vapour-laden sea See also:air blowing landward against the See also:girdle of snow and glaciers on the mountain barriers a few miles inland drains its moisture in excessive See also:rain and snow upon the lisiere, shrouding it in well-nigh unbroken See also:fog and See also:cloud-See also:bank . Only some 6o to roo days in the See also:year are clear . In passing from the Sitkan district westward toward Kodiak and the Aleutians (q.v.) the climate becomes even more equable, the temperature a little lower and the rainfall somewhat less;1 the fogs at first less dense, especially near Cook Inlet, where the climate is extremely See also:local, but more and more persistent along the Aleutians . The clear days of a year at Unalaska can be counted on the fingers; five days in seven it actually rains or snows .

Bering Sea is covered with almost eternal fog . Along 1 At Kodiak, the monthly means range from 28° to 55° with a total range from -to° to 82° F., as against -3° to 87° F. at See also:

Sitka; the average temperature is 4o•6° F., rainfall 59 in.the coast N. of Alaska Peninsula the rainfall diminishes to so in. or less within the Arctic circle; the summer temperature is quite endurable but the winters are exceedingly rigorous ? East of the mountains in south-eastern Alaska the See also:atmosphere is dry and bracing, the temperature ranging from -14° to 92° F . In the farther interior, in the valleys of the Yukon, the Tanana, the Copper and the Sushitna the summers are much the same in character, the winters much more severe . On the Yukon at the international boundary the mean of the warmest See also:month is higher than that of the warmest month at Sitka, 500 M. southward . At some points in the Upper Yukon valley the range of extreme temperatures is as great as from -75° to 9o° F.3 The mean See also:heat of summer in the upper valley is about 6o° to 7o° F., and at some points in the middle and lower valley even higher.' By the middle of See also:September snow flurries have announced the imminence of winter, the smaller streams congeal, the See also:earth freezes, the miner perforce abandons his diggings, and See also:navigation ceases even on the Yukon in See also:October . All winter snows fall heavily . The air is dry and quiet, and the See also:cold relatively uniform . In midwinter in the upper valley the See also:sun rises only a few degrees above the See also:horizon for from four to six See also:hours a See also:day, though very often quite obscured . In December, See also:January, See also:February and See also:March the thermometer often registers lower than -5o°° . F., and the mean temperature is -2o° . In May the rivers open, the cleared land thaws out, and by See also:June the miner is again at work .

Summer is quickly in full ascendancy . In May and June the sun shines from eighteen to twenty hours and diffused See also:

twilight fills the rest of the day . The rainfall is See also:light, from to to 25 in. according to the year or the locality . Dull See also:weather is unknown . All nature responds in See also:rich and rapid growth to the garish light and intense heat of the long, splendid days . But the Alaska summer is the uncertain See also:season; at times the nights are cold into See also:July, at times snow falls and there are frosts in See also:mid-August; sometimes rain is heavy, or again there is a veritable drought . In the great river valleys S. of the Yukon basin See also:climatic conditions are much less uniform . See also:Fauna and See also:Flora.—The fauna of Alaska is very rich and surprisingly varied . The lists of See also:insects, birds and mammals are especially noteworthy ? Of these three classes, and of other than purely zoological interest, are mosquitoes, which swarm in summer in the interior in vast See also:numbers; sea See also:fowl, which are remarkably abundant near the Aleutians; See also:moose, and especially caribou, which in the past were very numerous in the interior and of extreme economic importance to the natives . The destruction of the See also:wild caribou has threatened to expose the See also:Indians to wholesale See also:starvation, hence the effort which the United States government has made to stock the country with domestic See also:reindeer from See also:Siberia . This effort made under the direction of the See also:Bureau of See also:Education has been eminently successful, and in the future the reindeer seems certain to contribute very greatly to the See also:food, clothing, means of shelter and See also:miscellaneous See also:industries of the natives; and not less to the See also:solution of the problems of communication and transportation throughout the interior .

It is, however, the See also:

fish and the See also:fur-bearing animals of its rivers and surrounding seas that are economically most distinctive of and important to Alaska . The fishing grounds extend along the coast from the extreme south-east past the Aleutians into See also:Bristol See also:Bay . See also:Herring are abundant, and See also:cod especially so . There are probably more than roo,000 sq. m. of cod-See also:banks from 22 to go 2 At St See also:Michael the mean annual temperature is about 26°, the monthly means run from about -2° to 54°, and the extreme recorded temperatures from about -55° to 77° F.; at See also:Port See also:Clarence the annual mean is 22°, monthly means -7° to 51° F.; extreme range of temperature, -38° to 770 F.; at Point Barrow the annual mean is 7.7° F., monthly means -18.6° to 38.1 °F., extreme range of temperature -55° to 65° F . 3 The mean annual temperature on the Yukon at the international line is about 21° F., the monthly means run from -17° to 6o° F:, the range of extreme temperatures from -8o° to 9o° F . 4 At Fort Yukon five years' records showed mean seasonal temperatures of 14°, 600, 17°, and -23.8° F. for See also:spring, summer, autumn and winter respectively; at See also:Holy Cross See also:Mission 20°, 59°, 36° and 0.95°, at Nulato 290, 6o°, 36° and -14° . !The See also:Harriman expedition collected in two months loon See also:species of insects, of which 344 species (and 6 genera) were new to See also:science . fathoms deep in Bering Sea and E. of the Alaska Peninsula . See also:Salmon are to be found in almost incredible numbers . Of marine mammals, whales are hunted far to the N. in Bering Sea and the Arctic Ocean, but are much less common than formerly, as are also the See also:walrus, the sea See also:otter and the fur See also:seal . All these are disappearing before commercial greed . The walrus is now found mainly far N.; the sea otter, once fairly common throughout the Aleutian district, is now rarely found even on the remoter islands; the fur seal, whose See also:habitat is the Pribilof Islands in Bering Sea, has been considerably reduced in numbers by pelagic See also:hunting .

There are half-a-dozen species of See also:

hair See also:seals and sea-lions . The number of fur-bearing land animals is equally large . Sables, See also:ermine, wolverines, minks, land otters, beavers and See also:musk-rats have always been important items in the fur See also:trade . There are See also:black, grizzly and polar bears, and also two exclusively Alaskan species, the Kodiak and the See also:glacier See also:bear . The See also:grey See also:wolf is common; it is the basal stock of the Alaskan sledge-See also:dog . The red See also:fox is widely distributed, and the white or Arctic fox is very common along the eastern coast of Bering Sea; a See also:blue fox, once wild, is now domesticated on Kodiak and the Aleutians, and on the southern continental coast, and a black fox, very rare, occurs in south-eastern Alaska; the See also:silver fox is very rare . The Alaskan flora is less varied than the fauna . The forests of the coastal region eastward from Cook Inlet, and particularly in south-eastern Alaska, are of See also:fair variety, and of great richness and value . The.. See also:balsam See also:fir and in the south the red See also:cedar occur in scant quantities; more widely distributed, but growing only under marked local conditions, is the yellow or Alaska cedar, a very hard and durable See also:wood of See also:fine See also:grain and pleasant odour . The See also:Oregon See also:alder is fairly common . Far the most abundant are coast and Alpine hemlocks and the tide-land or Sitka spruce . The last is not confined to this part of Alaska, but is the characteristic and universal See also:tree .

Phoenix-squares

It is of See also:

primary economic importance to the natives, who use it for the most various purposes . On the islands of the Alexander Archipelago and on Prince See also:William Sound it grows to gigantic size; even on the Koyukuk and the middle Yukon it attains in places a See also:diameter of 2 ft . In 1902 a See also:forest See also:reservation comprising the largest part of the Alexander Archipelago was created by the United States government . The separation of the coast and interior floras is almost See also:complete; only along the mountain passes and river valleys, and rarely there, is there an See also:exchange of species . See also:Timber, how-ever, is fairly abundant along the entire course of the Yukon above Anvik (about 400 M. from the mouth), along the great tributaries of the Yukon, and, so far as explorations have revealed, along every stream in central Alaska; and the See also:woods of the interior consist almost entirely of spruce . On the Yukon flats it grows in a vast forest impenetrably dense.' The timber line, which in the Panhandle and along the southern coast of the continental mass runs from 1800 to 2400 ft., frequently rises in the interior plateau even to 4000 ft . Next in importance after spruce, in the interior, is