See also:

• BIRETTA (Ital. berretta, Med. Lat. biretum, birettum, dim. of birrus, " a hooded cloak "; from the Fr. form barrette is derived the Eng. " barret-cap ")

BIRETTA (Ital. berretta, Med. See also:

• LAT

Lat. biretum, birettum, dim. of birrus, " a hooded cloak "; from the Fr. See also:

• FORM (Lat. forma)

form barrette is derived the Eng. " barret-cap ")  , a cap worn by the See also:

• CATHOLIC (Gr. KcaBoXuK6s, general, universal)

Catholic See also:

• CLERGY (M.E. clergie, O. Fr. clergie, from Low Lat. form clericia [Skean, by assimilation with O. Fr. clergie, Fr. clerge,from Low Lat. clericatus)
• CLERGY, BENEFIT OF

clergy . It is square and stiff, being made of a framework of cardboard covered with See also:

• CLOTH

cloth or See also:

• SILK

silk; on the See also:

• TOP (cf. Dan. top, Ger. Topf, also meaning pot)

top, along the sutures of the stuff, are three or four raised, See also:

• BOARD (O. Eng. bord)

board-like, arched ridges, at the junction of which in the centre is a knob or tassel (ftoccus) . Its See also:

• COLOUR (Lat. color, connected with celare, to hide, the root meaning, therefore, being that of a covering)

colour varies with the See also:

• RANK (O.Fr. rant or rent, mod. rang, generally connected with the O.E. and O.H.G. bring, a ring)

rank of the wearer, that of the See also:

• POPE (Gr. irarraas, post-classical Lat. papa, father)
• POPE, ALEXANDER (1688–1744)
• POPE, ALEXANDER (1763-1835)
• POPE, JANE (1742-1818)
• POPE, JOHN (1822-1892)
• POPE, SIR THOMAS (c. 1507-1559)

pope being See also:

• WHITE
• WHITE, ANDREW DICKSON (1832– )
• WHITE, GILBERT (1720–1793)
• WHITE, HENRY KIRKE (1785-1806)
• WHITE, HUGH LAWSON (1773-1840)
• WHITE, JOSEPH BLANCO (1775-1841)
• WHITE, RICHARD GRANT (1822-1885)
• WHITE, ROBERT (1645-1704)
• WHITE, SIR GEORGE STUART (1835– )
• WHITE, SIR THOMAS (1492-1567)
• WHITE, SIR WILLIAM ARTHUR (1824--1891)
• WHITE, SIR WILLIAM HENRY (1845– )
• WHITE, THOMAS (1628-1698)
• WHITE, THOMAS (c. 1550-1624)

white, of the cardinals red, of bishops See also:

• PURPLE

purple, and of the See also:

• LOWER

lower clergy See also:

• BLACK
• BLACK, ADAM (1784-1874)
• BLACK, JEREMIAH SULLIVAN (1810–1883)
• BLACK, WILLIAM (1841-1898)

black . It is not in the strictest sense a liturgical See also:

• HEAD (in 0. Eng. heafad; the word is common to Teutonic languages; cf. Dutch hoofd, Ger. Haupt, generally taken to be in origin connected with Lat. caput, Gr. KerbOvi7)
• HEAD, SIR EDMUND WALKER, BART
• HEAD, SIR FRANCIS BOND, BART

head-See also:

• DRESS (from the Fr. dresser, to set out, arrange, formed from Lat. directus, arranged, dirigere, to direct, arrange)

dress, its use not being confined to liturgical functions . In these functions, moreover, its use is strictly limited; e.g. it is worn at See also:

• LOW, SETH (1850- )
• LOW, WILL HICOK (1853- )

low masses by the See also:

• PRIEST (Ger. Priester, Fr. pretre)

priest only when he goes to and from the See also:

• ALTAR (Lat. altare, from alias, high; some ancient etymological guesses are recorded by St Isidore of Seville in Etymologiae xv. 4)

altar, at high masses also when the celebrant sits during the singing of the See also:

• KYRIE (in full kyrie eleison, or eleeson, Gr. Kvpte MEssvov; cf. Ps. cxxii. 3, Matt. xv. 22, &c., meaning " Lord, have mercy ")

Kyrie, Gloria and Creed, and at See also:

• PRO

pro-cessions when these take See also:

• PLACE (through Fr. from Lat. platea, street; Gr. IrAar6s, wide)

place outside the See also:

• CHURCH
• CHURCH (according to most authorities derived from the Gr. Kvpcaxov [&wµa], " the Lord's [house]," and common to many Teutonic, Slavonic and other languages under various forms—Scottish kirk, Ger. Kirche, Swed. kirka, Dan. kirke, Russ. tserkov, Buig. cerk
• CHURCH, FREDERICK EDWIN (1826-1900)
• CHURCH, GEORGE EARL (1835–1910)
• CHURCH, RICHARD WILLIAM (1815–189o)
• CHURCH, SIR RICHARD (1784–1873)

church and are not sacramental, and so on . Though the See also:

• FORM (Lat. forma)

form of the See also:

• BIRETTA (Ital. berretta, Med. Lat. biretum, birettum, dim. of birrus, " a hooded cloak "; from the Fr. form barrette is derived the Eng. " barret-cap ")

biretta, devised in the 17th See also:

• CENTURY (from Lat. centuria, a division of a hundred men)

century, is See also:

• PECULIAR

peculiar to the See also:

• ROMAN

Roman Church, it is but a variant of the See also:

• ORIGINAL

original biretum, which See also:

• DEVELOPED

developed in various countries into head-coverings of different shapes and significance . At the outset there was little to distinguish the biretum from the pileus or pileolus (See also:

• SKULL

skull-cap), a non-liturgical cap worn by dignitaries of the Church under the See also:

• MITRE (Lat. mitra, from Gr. j4rpa, a band, head-band, head-dress)

mitre and even under the biretta . When the word biretum first appears in the 13th century, it practically means no more than " cap," and is used as a synonym of pileus . As an ecclesiastical vestment the cap can be traced, under the name of pileus, to the 12th century; under that of infula, to the end of the loth . It would seem to have been worn by the cantors as a See also:

• PROTECTION

protection against See also:

• COLD (in O. Eng. cald and ceald, a word coming ultimately from a root cognate with the Lat. gelu, gelidus, and common in the Teutonic languages, which usually have two distinct forms for the substantive and the adjective, cf. Ger. Kolte, kalt, Dutch koude

cold . The same utilitarian See also:

• REASON (Lat. ratio, through French raison)

reason led to its introduction among the clergy generally . Thus in 1243 Pope See also:

• INNOCENT (INNOCENTIUS)
• INNOCENT (POPES)

Innocent IV, granted leave to the See also:

• BENEDICTINES, or BLACK MONKS

Benedictines of St .

See also:

• AUGUSTINE, SAINT (354-430)
• AUGUSTINE, SAINT (d. c.613)

Augustine's at See also:

• CANTERBURY
• CANTERBURY, CHARLES

Canterbury, and to those of See also:

• WINCHESTER
• WINCHESTER, EARLS AND MARQUESSES OF

Winchester, to See also:

• WEAR

wear the pileus in See also:

• CHOIR (0. Fr. cuer from Lat. chorus; pronounced quire, and until the end of the 17th century so spelt, the spelling being altered to agree with the Fr. chceur)

choir . With the See also:

• EXTENSION (Lat. ex, out ; tendere, to stretch)

extension of its use, too, the See also:

• CUSTOM (from O. Fr. costume, costume or coustume; Low Lat. costuma, a shortened form of consuetudo)

custom See also:

• GREW, NEHEMIAH (1641-1712)

grew uo (c . 1300) of investing clerks with the biretum as the See also:

• SYMBOL (Gr. o-uµ(3oXov, a sign)

symbol of the See also:

• TRANSFER (from Lat. transferre, to bear across, carry over)

transfer of a See also:

• BENEFICE (Lat. beneficium, benefit)

benefice, a custom which survives, in Roman Catholic countries, in the See also:

• SOLEMN (Lat. sollemnis, sollemnis, less correctly solennis, yearly, annual; from sollus = totus, whole, entire, Gr. Mos., and annus, year)

solemn delivery of the red biretta by the head of the See also:

• STATE
• STATE, GREAT OFFICERS OF

state to newly created cardinals, who afterwards go to See also:

• ROME
• ROME (Roma)

Rome to receive the red See also:

• HAT

hat . This red biretta is called the zucchetto . This use of the biretum as a symbol of See also:

• OFFICE (from Lat. officium, " duty," " service," a shortened form of opifacium, from facere, " to do," and either the stem of opes, " wealth," " aid," or opus, " work ")

office or dignity was not confined to the clergy . With various modifications of form it was worn by all persons of See also:

• STANDING

standing, e.g. barons, See also:

• JUDGES, THE BOOK OF

judges, and doctors and masters of the See also:

• UNIVERSITIES

universities . The biretum was also used in the See also:

• INVESTITURE (Late Lat. investitura)

investiture of laymen with office, e.g. a See also:

• DUKE (corresponding to Fr. duc, Ital. duca, Ger. Herzog)

duke or the See also:

• PREFECT (prefet)

prefect of the See also:

• CITY (through Fr. cite, from Lat. civitas)

city of Rome (Du Cange, See also:

• GLOSS, GLOSSARY

Gloss. s.v. birretum) . The "cap of See also:

• MAINTENANCE (Fr. maintenance, from maintenir, to maintain, support, Lat. manu tenere, to hold in the hand)

maintenance" or "cap of See also:

• ESTATE (through O. Fr. estat, mod. flat, from Lat. status, state, condition, position, stare, to stand)

estate," still See also:

• BORNE, KARL LUDWIG (1786–1837)

borne be-fore the See also:

• BRITISH

British See also:

• SOVEREIGN

sovereign on state occasions, is a barretcap of the type of the 14th and 15th centuries; it is of See also:

• CRIMSON

crimson See also:

• VELVET

velvet, turned up with See also:

• ERMINE

ermine . By the 16th century the barret-cap had become the See also:

• COMMON

common head-gent of all See also:

• PEOPLE

people of substance, men and See also:

• WOMEN

women . It was See also:

• FLAT (a modification of O. Eng. flet, an obsolete word of Teutonic origin, meaning the ground beneath the feet)

flat, square or See also:

• ROUND (O. Fr. rond, Lat. rotundus, the Fr. is the source also of Du. rond; Ger., Swed., Dan. and Nor. rond)

round, sometimes with edges that could be turned up or down according to convenience, and was often elaborately decorated . By the 17th century it had given place in See also:

• ORDINARY (med. Lat. ordinarius, Fr. ordinaire)

ordinary See also:

• CIVIL

civil See also:

• LIFE

life to the brimmed hat; but in various shapes it still survives as See also:

• OFFICIAL (Late Lat. QJicialis, for class. Lat. apparitor, from officium, office, duty)

official head-See also:

• GEAR (connected with " garb," properly elegance, fashion, especially of dress, and with " gar," to cause to do, only found in Scottish and northern dialects; the root of the word is seen in the Old Tent. garwjan, to make ready)

gear in many See also:

• EUROPEAN

European countries: the Bared', worn in church by the Lutheran clergy, in the courts by See also:

• GERMAN
• GERMAN, DUTCH AND SCANDINAVIAN

German lawyers, and by the deans and rectors of the universities, the barrette of See also:

• FRENCH
• FRENCH, DANIEL CHESTER (1850– )
• FRENCH, NICHOLAS (1604-1678)

French judges and barristers, the " black cap " of the See also:

• ENGLISH

English See also:

• JUDGE (Lat. judex, Fr. juge)

judge, and the " See also:

• COLLEGE (Collegium)

college cap " See also:

• FAMILIAR (through the Fr. familier, from Lat. familiaris, of or belonging to the familia, family)

familiar in English and See also:

• AMERICAN

American universities, and vulgarly known as the " See also:

• MORTAR

mortar-board." Meanwhile the ecclesiastical developments of the biretum are not without See also:

• INTEREST

interest and significance . Originally this had been a round cap, low or moderately high, slightly bulging out at the top, and ornamented with a round knob .

By the 16th century, both in See also:

• ENGLAND
• ENGLAND, THE CHURCH OF

England and on the See also:

• CONTINENT (from Lat. continere, "to hold together "; hence " connected," " continuous ")

continent, a tendency had begun to emphasize the ridges of the sutures and thus produce a square shape . Henceforth the See also:

• EVOLUTION

evolution followed different lines . In England, in the 17th century, the square flat top began to be enlarged, forming a rim of thick stuff projecting beyond the See also:

• CLOSE
• CLOSE (from Lat. clausum, shut)
• CLOSE, MAXWELL HENRY (1822-1903)

close-fitting cap . This was the " square cap " so virulently denounced by the Puritans as a symbol of High Church Erastianism . With the See also:

• TRIUMPH (triumphus)

triumph of High Church principles at the Restoration it was natural that a loyal clergy should See also:

• DESIRE

desire to emphasize this squareness, and the consequent exaggeration of the square top of the cap necessitated a further stiffening . In the 18th century, accordingly, the top began to be made of a board of See also:

• WOOD, ANTHONY A2 (1632-1695)
• WOOD, JOHN GEORGE (1827—1889)
• WOOD, MRS HENRY [ELLEN] (1814—1887)
• WOOD, SEARLES VALENTINE (1798—188o)

wood or card covered with cloth, the close-fitting cap proper retired farther from the edges, the knob developed into a See also:

• LONG, GEORGE (1800-1879)
• LONG, JOHN DAVIS (1838– )

long tassel, and the evolution of the See also:

• MODERN

modern " college cap " was See also:

• COMPLETE

complete (see fig. x) . On the continent, meanwhile, in the Roman Catholic Church, the biretum had' also developed into its See also:

• PRESENT

present characteristic form, and by a very similar See also:

• PROCESS

process . By the end of the 16th century the square shape was every-where prevalent; at the beginning of the 17th century cardboard was introduced to stiffen the sides and emphasize the squareness, and the actual form of the biretta, as described above, had be-come fixed (see fig . 2) . Only in See also:

• SPAIN
• SPAIN (Espana)

Spain has the biretta continued to be worn without the raised ridges . The use of the Roman biretta has been introduced by a certain number of the clergy into the See also:

• ANGLICAN

Anglican Church . It is clear that there is no See also:

• HISTORICAL

historical See also:

• JUSTIFICATION

justification for this; for though both college cap and biretta are developed from the same " square cap," the biretta in its actual shape is strictly associated with the See also:

• POST

post-See also:

• REFORMATION
• REFORMATION, THE

Reformation Roman Church, and its actual ceremonial use is of See also:

• LATE

late growth .

Braun (Liturgische Gewandung, p . 513) thinks that the symbolism of the See also:

• CROSS

cross may have had some See also:

• INFLUENCE (Late Lat. influentia, from influere, to flow in)

influence in fixing and pro- pagating the square shape, and he quotes a See also:

• DECREE (from the past participle, decretus, of Lat. decernere)

decree of the See also:

• SYNOD
• SYNOD (Gr. vbvobos)

synod of See also:

• AIX

Aix (1585) ordering the 8 h clergy to wear a biretta sewn in the form of a cross (biretum in modum crucis consutum, ut ecclesiasticos homines decet) . So far as the legality of the use of the biretta in the Church of England is concerned, this was pronounced by See also:

• SIR

Sir R . See also:

• PHILLIMORE, SIR ROBERT JOSEPH (1810-1885)

Phillimore in the See also:

• COURT
• COURT (from the O. Fr. court, Late Lat. cortis, curtis, a popular form of class. Lat. cohors, gen. cohortis; the mod. Fr. form tour is due to the influence of the Lat. curia, the word used in medieval documents to translate " court " in the feudal sense)
• COURT, ANTOINE (1696-176o)

Court of See also:

• ARCHES, COURT OF

Arches (See also:

• ELPHINSTONE, MOUNTSTUART (1779-1859)
• ELPHINSTONE, WILLIAM (1431-1514)

Elphinstone v . See also:

• PURCHAS, SAMUEL (1575?-1626)

Purchas, 187o) to be legal " as a protection to the head when needed," but this decision was reversed on See also:

• APPEAL

appeal by the judicial See also:

• COMMITTEE (from commute, an Anglo-Fr. past participle of commettre, Lat. committere, to entrust; the modern Fr. equivalent comite is derived from the Eng.)

committee of the privy See also:

• COUNCIL (Lat. concilium, from cum, together, and the root cal, to call)

council (Hebbert v . Purchas, 1871) . Of late years the old square cap of soft padded cloth or velvet has been revived in the Anglican Church by some dignitaries . See J . Braun, S.J., See also:

• DIE
• DIE (Fr. de, from Lat. datum, given)

Die liturgischeGewandung (See also:

• FREIBURG

Freiburg-i-B., 1907) ; Hierurgica Anglicana, See also:

• PART

part ii . (See also:

• LONDON

London, 19o3); H . Druitt, See also:

• COSTUME
• COSTUME (through the Fr. costume, from Ital. costume, Late Lat. costuma, a contracted form of Lat. consuetudinem, ace. of consuetudo, custom, habit, manner, &c.)

Costume on See also:

• BRASSES, MONUMENTAL

Brasses (London, 1906) . (W .

A .