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See also:BUTTON (Fr. bouton, O. Fr. boton, apparently from the same See also:root as bouter, to push) , a small piece of See also:metal or other material which, pushed through a See also:loop or See also:button-hole, serves as a catch between different parts of a garment, &c . The word is also used of other See also:objects which have a projecting knob-like See also:character, e.g. button-mushrooms, the button of an electric See also:bell-push, or the guard at the tip of a See also:fencing See also:foil; or which resemble a button in See also:size and shape, as the button of metal obtained in See also:assaying operations . At first buttons were apparently used for purposes of ornamentation; in Piers Plowman (1377) mention is made of a See also:knife with " botones ouergylte," and in See also:Lord Berner's See also:translation of See also:Froissart's See also:Chronicles (1525) of a See also:book covered with See also:crimson See also:velvet with " ten botons of syluer and gylte." While this use has continued, especially in connexion with See also:women's See also:dress, they began to be employed as fastenings at least as See also:early as the 15th See also:century . As a See also:term of comparison for some-thing trivial or worthless, the word is found in the 14th century . Buttons of distinctive See also:colour or See also:pattern, or bearing a portrait or See also:motto, are often worn, especially in the See also:United States, as a decoration, or sign of membership of a society or of adherence to a See also:political party; among the most honoured of such buttons are those worn by members of the military See also:order of the Loyal See also:Legion of the United States, organized in 1865 by See also:officers who had fought in the See also:Civil See also:War . See also:Chinese officials See also:wear a button or knob on their hats as a See also:mark of See also:rank, the grade being denoted by its colour and material (see See also:MANDARIN) . Many varieties of buttons are used on clothing, but they may be divided into two See also:main classes according to the arrangement by which they are attached to the garment; in one class they are provided with a shank which may consist of a metal loop or of a tuft of See also:cloth or similar material, while in the other they are pierced with holes through which are passed threads . To these two classes roughly correspond two broad See also:differences in the method of manufacture, according as the buttons are composite and made up of two or more pieces, or are simply shaped disks of a single material; some composite buttons, however, are provided with holes, and See also:simple metal buttons sometimes have metal shanks soldered or riveted on them . From an early See also:period buttons of the former See also:kind were made by See also:needlework with the aid of a See also:mould or former, but about 1807 B . See also:Sanders, a Dane who had been ruined by the See also:bombardment of See also:Copenhagen, introduced an improved method of manufacturing them at See also:Birmingham . His buttons were formed of two disks of metal locked together by having their edges turned back on each other and enclosing a filling of cloth or pasteboard; and by methods of this kind, carried out by elaborate automatic machinery, buttons are readily produced, presenting faces of See also:silk, See also:mohair, See also:brocade or other material required to harmonize with the fabric on which they are used . Sanders's buttons at first had metal shanks, but about 1825 his son invented flexible shanks of See also:canvas or other substance through which the See also:needle could pass freely in any direction . The See also:mechanical manufacture of covered buttons was started in the United States in 1827 by See also:Samuel Williston, of See also:Easthampton, See also:Mass., who in 1834 joined forces with See also:Joel and See also:Josiah See also:Hayden, of Haydenville . The number of materials that have been used for making buttons is very large—metals such as See also:brass and See also:iron for the cheaper kinds, and for more expensive ones, See also:gold and See also:silver, sometimes ornamented with jewels, See also:filigree See also:work, &c.; See also:ivory, See also:horn, See also:bone and See also:mother-of-See also:pearl or other nacreous products of See also:shell-See also:fish; See also:vegetable ivory and See also:wood; See also:glass, See also:porcelain, See also:paper, celluloid and artificial compositions; and even the casein of See also:milk, and See also:blood . Brass buttons were made at Birmingham in 1689, and in the following century the metal button See also:industry underwent considerable development in that See also:city . See also:Matthew See also:Boulton the See also:elder, about 1745, introduced See also:great improvements in the processes of manufacture, and when his son started the Soho See also:works in 1767 one of the departments was devoted to the See also:production of See also:steel buttons with facets, some of which sold for 140 guineas a See also:gross . Gilt buttons also came into See also:fashion about the same period . In this " Augustan See also:age " of the Birmingham button industry, when there was a large export See also:trade, the profits891 of manufacturers who worked on only a modest See also:scale amounted to £3000 and £4000 a See also:year, and workmen earned from £2 to £4 a See also:week . At one See also:time the buttons had each to be fashioned separately by skilled artisans, but gradually the cost of production was lessened by the See also:adoption of mechanical processes, and instead of being turned out singly and engraved or otherwise ornamented by See also:hand, they came to be stamped out in See also:dies which at once shape them and impress them with the desired pattern . Ivory buttons are among the See also:oldest of all . Horn buttons were made at Birmingham at least by 1777; towards the See also:middle of the 19th century Emile Bassot invented a widely-used See also:process for producing them from the hoofs of See also:cattle, which were softened by boiling . Pearl buttons are made from pearl See also:oyster shells obtained from various parts of the See also:world, and after being cut out by tubular drills are shaped and polished by machinery . Buttons of vegetable ivory can be readily dyed . Glass buttons are especially made in Bohemia, as also are those of porcelain, which were invented about 184o by an Englishman, R . Prosser of Birmingham . In the -United States few buttons were made until the beginning of the 19th century, when the manufacture of metal buttons was started at See also:Waterbury, See also:Conn., which is now the centre of that industry . In 1812 See also:Aaron See also:Benedict began to make ivory and horn buttons at the same See also:place . Buttons of vegetable ivory, now one of the most important branches of the See also:American button industry, were first made at See also:Leeds, Mass., in 1859 by an Englishman, A . W . Critchlow, and in 1875 commercial success was attained in the production of See also:composition buttons at See also:Springfield, Mass . Pearl buttons were made on a small scale in 1855, but their manufacture received an enormous impetus in the last See also:decade of the 19th century, when J . F . Boepple began, at See also:Muscatine, See also:Iowa, to utilize the unio or " niggerhead " shells found along the See also:Mississippi . By 1905 the See also:annual output of these "fresh-See also:water pearl" buttons had reached 11,405,723 gross, See also:worth $3,359,167, or 36.6% of the See also:total value of the buttons produced in the United States . In the same year the mother-of-pearl buttons (" ocean pearl buttons ") numbered 1,737,830 gross, worth $1,511,107, and the two kinds together constituted 44% of the number, and 53.9% of the value, of the button manufactures of the United States . (See U.S.A . See also:Census Reports, 1900, Manufactures, See also:part iii. pp . |
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