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CRAPE (an anglicized version of the Fr. crepe) , a See also: silk fabric of a gauzy texture, having a See also: peculiar crisp or crimpy appearance
.
It is See also: woven of hard spun silk See also: yarn " in the gum " or natural condition
.
There are two distinct varieties of the textile—soft, See also: Canton or See also: Oriental crape, and hard or crisped crape
.
The wavy appearance of Canton crape results from the peculiar manner in which the weft is prepared, the yarn from two bobbins being See also: twisted together in the See also: reverse way
.
The fabric when woven is smooth and even, having no crepe appearance, but when the gum is subsequently extracted by boiling it at once becomes soft, and the weft, losing its twist, gives the fabric the waved structure which constitutes its distinguishing feature
.
Canton crapes are used, either See also: white or coloured, for ladies' scarves and shawls,
See also: bonnet trimmings, &c
.
The See also: Chinese and See also: Japanese excel in the manufacture of soft crapes
.
The crisp and elastic structure of hard crape is not produced either in the pinning or in the See also: weaving, but is due to processes through which the See also: gauze passes after it is woven
.
What the details of these processes are is known to only a few manufacturers, who so jealously guard their secret that, in some cases, the different stages in the manufacture are conducted in towns far removed from each other
.
Commercially they are distinguished as single, See also: double, three-ply and four-ply crapes, According to the nature of the yarn used in their manufacture
.
They are almost exclusively dyed black and used in mourning dress, and among See also: Roman Catholic communities for nuns' veils, &c
.
In See also: Great Britain hard crapes are made at See also: Braintree in See also: Essex, Norwich, See also: Yarmouth, Manchester and See also: Glasgow
.
The crape formerly made at Norwich was made with a silk warp and worsted weft, and is said to have afterwards degenerated into See also: bombazine
.
A very successful imitation of real crape is made in Manchester of See also: cotton yarn, and sold under the name of See also: Victoria crape
.
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