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See also:CRETE (Gr. Kp;rrrr; Turk. Kirid, Ital. See also:Candia) , after See also:Sicily, See also:Sardinia and See also:Cyprus the largest See also:island in the Mediterranean, situated between 34°5o'and 35°4o' N. See also:lat. and between 23°3o' and 26°2o' E. See also:long . Its See also:north-eastern extremity, Cape Sidero, is distant about See also:Ito m. from Cape Krio in See also:Asia See also:Minor, the See also:interval being partly filled by the islands of Carpathos and See also:Rhodes; its north-western, Cape Grabusa, is within 6o m. of Cape Malea in the Morea . See also:Crete thus forms the natural limit between the Mediterranean and the See also:Archipelago . The island is of elongated See also:form; its length from E. to W. is 16o m., its breadth from N. to S. varies from 35 to 72 m., its See also:area is 3330 sq. m . The See also:northern See also:coast-See also:line is much indented . On the W. two narrow mountainous promontories, the western terminating in Cape Grabusa or Busa (See also:ancient Corycus), the eastern in Cape Spada, shut in the See also:Bay of Kisamos; beyond the Bay of See also:Canea, to the E., the rocky See also:peninsula of Akrotiri shelters the magnificent natural See also:harbour of Suda (82 sq. m.), the only completely protected anchorage for large vessels which the island affords . Farther E. are the bays of See also:Candia and Malea, the deep Mirabello Bay and the Bay of Sitia . The See also:south coast is less broken, and possesses no natural harbours, the mountains in many parts rising almost like a See also:wall from the See also:sea; in the centre is Cape Lithinos, the southernmost point of the island, partly sheltering the Bay of Messara on the W . Immediately to the E. of Cape Lithinos is the small bay of See also:Kali Limenes or See also:Fair Havens, where the See also:ship conveying St See also:Paul took See also:refuge (Acts See also:xxvii . 8) . Of the islands in the neighbourhood of the Cretan coast the largest is Gavdo (ancient Clauda, Acts A 2.j B 2s° C 26 D MED!T£RRANEAN SEA CRETE 35 e ao See also:Coe See also:English See also:Miles C }N SQO Ito `i~ w p ^,nS Ppnt~eonsl`~ ti xsa s5a of e 1 Ennecno 4 st0°~ cK ~ 'a ~ , '~° )l,.e o 5 0 20 Slot; See also:Col r -~.r: h Capfuls of Departments, o Mrnoan and l 2akro sites mtaer/mede7 rean dt I s e 1 s _. qp oto vN, s c 0otee d Csoo has at So`O°°a 3' 4 ,o c.s°rm°ne 4, 2akro '' N°~° bg Qd s b'' f8 Gpo See also:Mara n 6Q C . See also:Mai so,e p 777~~IIi ~-a•• (2 - J o Q'NfiE6..s Cevdopu~on ,tt; KophigR , a Gaudo~/~ MeaN9°~1 ~ 9 e (C,e°d, ~~~~iF6 J o I u~ °o, ''~OSA .
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16), about 25 M. from the south coast at Sphakia, in the See also:middle ages the see of a See also:bishop
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On the N. See also:side the small island of Dia, or Standia, about 8 m. from Candia, offers a convenient shelter against northerly See also:gales
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Three small islands on the northern coast—Grabusa at the N.W. extremity, Suda, at the entrance to Suda harbour, and Spinalonga, in Mirabello Bay—remained for some See also:time in the See also:possession of See also:Venice after the See also:conquest of Crete by the See also:Turks
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Grabusa, long regarded as an impregnable fortress, was surrendered in 1692, Suda (where the flags of See also:Turkey and the four protecting See also:powers are now hoisted) and Spinalonga in 1715
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Natural Features.—The greater See also:part of the island is occupied by ranges of mountains which form four See also:principal See also:groups
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In the western portion rises the massive range of the See also: The Kophino mountains (3888 ft.) See also:separate the central See also:plain of Messara from the southern coast . The isolated See also:peak of Iuktas (about 2700 ft.), nearly due S. of Candia, was regarded with veneration in antiquity as the See also:burial-See also:place of See also:Zeus . The principal groups are for the greater part of the See also:year covered with See also:snow, which remains in the deeper clefts throughout the summer; the intervals between them are filled by connecting chains which sometimes reach the height of 3000 ft . The largest plain is that of Monofatsi and Messara, a fertile See also:tract extending between Mt . Psiloriti and the Kophino range, about 37 M. in length and 10 m. in breadth . The smaller plain, or rather slope, adjoining Canea and the valley of Alikianfl, through which the Platanos (ancient Iardanos) flows, are of See also:great beauty and fertility . A See also:peculiar feature is presented by the level upland basins which furnish abundant pasturage during the summer months; the more remarkable are the Omalo in the White Mountains (about 4000 ft.) drained by subterranean outlets (Kara/@oOpa), Nida (eh Tim "Hap) in Psiloriti (between 5000 and 6000 ft.), and the Lassithi plain (about 3000 ft.), a more extensive area, on which are several villages . Another remarkable characteristic is found in the deep narrow ravines (Oapayyra), bordered by precipitous cliffs, which See also:traverse the mountainous districts; into some of these the daylight scarcely penetrates . Numerous large caves exist in the mountains; among the most remarkable are the famous Idaean See also:cave in Psiloriti, the caves of Melidoni, in Mylopotamo, and Sarchu, in Malevisi, which sheltered hundreds of refugees after the insurrection of 1866, and the Dictaean cave in Lassithi, the See also:birth-place of Zeus . The so-called See also:Labyrinth, near the ruins of See also:Gortyna, was a subterranean See also:quarry from which the See also:city was built . The principal See also:rivers are the Metropoli Potamos and the Anapothiari, which drain the plain of Monofatsi and enter the southern sea E. and W. respectively of the Kophino range; the Platanos, which flows northwards from the White Mountains into the Bay of Canea; and the Mylopotamo (ancient Oaxes) flowing northwards from Psiloriti to the sea E. of Retimo . See also:Geology.'—The metamorphic rocks of western Crete form a See also:series some 9000 to 10,000 ft. in thickness, of very varied See also:composition . They include See also:gypsum, See also:dolomite, conglomerates, phyllites, and a basic series of eruptive rocks (gabbros, peridotites, serpentines) . Glaucophane rocks are widely spread . In the centre of the folds fossiliferous beds with crinoids have been found, and the See also:black slates at the See also:top of the series contain Myophoria and other fossils, indicating that the rocks are of Triassic See also:age . It is, however, not impossible that the metamorphic series includes also some of the See also:Lias . The later beds of the island belong to the See also:Jurassic, Cretaceous and See also:Tertiary systems . At the western See also:foot of the Ida See also:massif calcareous beds with See also:corals, brachiopods (Rhynchonella inconstans, &c.) have been found, the fossils indicating the See also:horizon of the Kimmeridge See also:clay . See also:Lower Cretaceous limestones and See also:schists, with radiolarian cherts, arc extensively See also:developed; and in many parts of the island Upper Creta- ' See L . Cayeux, " See also:Les Lignes directrices See also:des plissements de See also:file de Crete," C.R . IX . Cong. geol. internat . See also:Vienna, pp . 383-392 (1904).ceous limestones with Rudistes and See also:Eocene beds with nummuliteo have been found . All these are involved in the See also:earth movements to which the mountains of the island owe their formation, but the See also:Miocene beds (with Clypeaster) and later deposits See also:lie almost undisturbed upon the coasts and the See also:low-lying ground . With the Jurassic beds is associated an extensive series of eruptive rocks (See also:gabbro, See also:peridotite, See also:serpentine, See also:diorite, See also:granite, &c.) ; they are chiefly of Jurassic age, but the eruptions may have continued into the Lower Cretaceous . The structure of the island is complex . In the See also:west the folds run from north to south, curving gradually westward towards the southern and western coasts; but in the See also:east the folds appear to run from west to east, and to be the continuation of the Dinaric folds of the See also:Balkan peninsula . The structure is further complicated by a great thrust-See also:plane which has brought the Jurassic and Lower Cretaceous beds upon the Upper Cretaceous and Eocene beds . Vegetation.—The forests which once covered the mountains have for the most part disappeared and the slopes are now desolate wastes . The See also:cypress still grows See also:wild in the higher regions; the lower hills and the valleys, which are extremely fertile, are covered with See also:olive See also:woods . Oranges and lemons also abound, and are of excellent quality, furnishing almost the whole See also:supply of See also:continental See also:Greece and See also:Constantinople . See also:Chestnut woods are found in the Selino See also:district, and forests of the valonia See also:oak in that of Retimo; in some parts the carob See also:tree is abundant and supplies an important See also:article of See also:consumption . See also:Pears, apples, quinces, mulberries and other See also:fruit-trees flourish, as well as vines; the Cretan wines, however, no longer enjoy the reputation which they possessed in the time of the Venetians . See also:Tobacco and See also:cotton succeed well in the plains and low grounds, though not at See also:present cultivated to any great extent . _ Animals.—Of the wild animals of Crete, the wild See also:goat or agrimi (Capra aegagrus) alone need be mentioned; it is still found in considerable See also:numbers on the higher summits of Psiloriti and the White Mountains . The same See also:species is found in the See also:Caucasus and See also:Mount See also:Taurus, and is distinct from the See also:ibex or bouquetin of the See also:Alps . Crete, like several other large islands, enjoys See also:immunity from dangerous serpents—a See also:privilege ascribed by popular belief to the intercession of See also:Titus, the See also:companion of St Paul, who according to tradition was the first bishop of the island, and became in consequence its See also:patron See also:saint . Wolves also are not found in the island, though See also:common in Greece and Asia Minor . The native breed of mules is remarkably See also:fine . See also:Population.—The population of Crete under the Venetians was estimated at about 250,000 . After the See also:Turkish conquest it greatly diminished, but afterwards gradually See also:rose, till it was supposed to have attained to about 260,000, of whom about See also:half were Mahommedans, at the time, of the outbreak of the See also:Greek revolution in 1821 . The ravages of the See also:war from 1821 to 1830, and the See also:emigration that followed, caused a great diminution, and the population was estimated by Pashley in 1836 at only about 130,000 . In the next See also:generation it again materially increased; it was calculated by See also:Spratt in 1865 as amounting to 210,000 . According to the See also:census taken in 1881, the See also:complete publication of which was interdicted by the Turkish authorities, the population of the island was 279,165, or 35.78 to the square kilometre . Of this See also:total, 141,602 were See also:males, 137,563 See also:females; 33,173 were literate, 242,114 illiterate; 205,010 were orthodox Christians, 73,234 Moslems, and 921 of other religious persuasions . The Moslem See also:element predominated in the principal towns, of which the population was—Candia, 21,368; Canea, 13,812; Retimo, 9274 . According to the census taken in See also:June 1900, the population of the island was 301,273, the Christians having increased to 267,266, while the Moslems had diminished to 33,281 . The Moslems, as well as the Christians, are of Greek origin and speak Greek . Towns.—The three principal towns are on the northern coast and possess small harbours suitable for vessels of See also:light See also:draught . Candia, the former See also:capital and the see of the See also:archbishop of Crete (pop. in 1900, 22,501), is officially styled Herakleion; it is surrounded by remarkable Venetian fortifications and possesses a museum with a valuable collection of See also:objects found at See also:Cnossus, Phaestus, the Idaean cave and elsewhere . It has been occupied since 1897 by See also:British troops . Canea (Xavia), the seat of See also:government since 1840 (pop . 20,972), is built in the See also:Italian See also:style; its walls and interesting See also:galley-slips recall the Venetian See also:period . The See also:residence of the high See also:commissioner and the consulates of the powers are in the suburb of Halepa . Retimo (PEBvµvos) is, like Canea, the see of a bishop (pop . 9311) . The other towns, Hierapetra, Sitia, Kisamos, Selino and Sphakia, are unimportant . See also:Production and See also:Industries.—Owing to the volcanic nature of its See also:soil, Crete is probably See also:rich in minerals . See also:Recent experiments See also:lead to the conclusion that See also:iron, lead, See also:manganese, See also:lignite and See also:sulphur exist in considerable abundance . See also:Copper and See also:zinc have also been found . A large number of applications for See also:mining See also:con-cessions have been received since the See also:establishment of the autonomous government . The principal See also:wealth of the island is derived from its olive groves; notwithstanding the destruction of many See also:thou-sands of trees during each successive insurrection, the production is apparently undiminished, and will probably increase very considerably owing to the planting of See also:young trees and the improved methods of cultivation which the Government is endeavouring to promote . The See also:orange and See also:lemon groves have also suffered considerably, but new varieties of the orange tree are now being introduced, and an impulse will be given to the export See also:trade in this fruit by the removal of the restriction on its importation into Greece . See also:Agriculture is still in a See also:primitive See also:condition; notwithstanding the fertility of the arable See also:land the supply of cereals is far below the requirements of the population . A great portion of the central plain of Monofatsi, the principal See also:grain-producing district, is lying See also:fallow owing to the See also:exodus of the Moslem peasantry . The cultivation of See also:silk cocoons, formerly a flourishing See also:industry, has greatly declined in recent years, but efforts are now being made to revive it . There are few manufactures . See also:Soap is produced at fifteen factories in the principal towns, and there are two distilleries of See also:cognac at Candia . See also:Commerce.—The expansion of Cretan commerce has been retarded by many drawbacks, such as the unsatisfactory condition of the harbours, the want of See also:direct steamship lines to See also:England and other countries, and the deficiency of See also:internal communications . The total value of imports in the four years 1901–1904 was £1,756,888, of exports £1,386,777; excess of imports over exports, £37o,III, Exports in 1904 were valued at £419,642, the principal items being agricultural products (oranges, lemons, carobs, almonds, grapes, valonia, &c.), value £153,858, See also:olives and products of olives (oil, soap, &c.), £134,788, and wines and liquors, f48,544 . The countries which accept the largest See also:share of Cretan produce are Turkey, England, See also:Egypt, See also:Austria and See also:Russia . Imports in 1904 were valued at £549,665, including agricultural products (mainly See also:flour and See also:corn), value £162,535 and textiles, £I29,349• Cereals are imported from the Black Sea and See also:Danube ports, ready-made clothing from Austria and See also:Germany, articles of luxury from Austria and See also:France, and cotton textiles from England . Imports are charged 8 %, exports 1 % ad valorem See also:duty . According to a See also:law published in 1899, Turkish merchandise became subjected to the same rates as that of See also:foreign nations . Constitution and Government.—During the past half-See also:century the affairs of Crete have repeatedly occupied the See also:attention of See also:Europe . Owing to the existence of a strong Mussulman minority among its inhabitants, the warlike See also:character of the natives, and the mountainous configuration of the See also:country, which enabled a portion of the See also:Christian population to maintain itself in a See also:state of partial See also:independence, the island has constantly been the See also:scene of prolonged and sanguinary struggles in which the numerical superiority of the Christians was counterbalanced by the aid rendered to the Moslems by the See also:Ottoman troops . This unhappy state of affairs was aggravated and perpetuated by the intrigues set on foot at Constantinople against successive See also:governors of the island, the conflicts between the See also:Palace and the See also:Porte, the duplicity of the Turkish authorities, the dissensions of the representatives of the great powers, the machinations of Greek See also:agitators, the rivalry of Cretan politicians, and prolonged See also:financial mismanagement . A long series of insurrections—those of 1821, 1833, 1841, 1858, 1866–1868, 1878, 1889 and 1896 may be especially mentioned—culminated in the See also:general See also:rebellion of 1897, which led to the interference of Greece, the intervention of the great powers, the See also:expulsion of the Turkish authorities, and the establishment of an autonomous Cretan government under the See also:suzerainty of the See also:sultan . According to the autonomous constitution of 1899 the supreme See also:power was vested in See also:Prince See also:George of Greece, acting as high commissioner of the protecting powers . The authority thus conferred was confided exclusively to the prince, and was declared liable to modification by law in the See also:case of his successor . The modified constitution of See also:February 1907 curtailed the large exceptional legislative and administrative powers then accorded . The high commissioner is irresponsible,but his decrees, except in certain specified cases, must be See also:counter-signed by a member of his See also:council . He convokes, prorogues and dissolves the chamber, sanctions See also:laws, exercises the right of See also:pardon in case of See also:political offences, represents the island in its foreign relations and is See also:chief of its military forces . The chamber (,3ov o ), which is elected in the proportion of one See also:deputy to every 5000 inhabitants, meets annually for a session of two months . New elections are held every two years . The chamber exercises a complete financial See also:control, and no taxes can be imposed without its consent . The high commissioner is aided in the See also:administration by a See also:cabinet of three members, styled " councillors " (ovµ/3ovXoa), who superintend the departments of See also:justice, See also:finance, See also:education, public See also:security and the interior . The councillors, who are nominated and dismissed by the high commissioner, are responsible to the chamber, which may impeach them before a See also:special tribunal for any illegal See also:act or neglect of duty . In general the Cretan constitution is characterized by a conservative spirit, and contrasts with the ultra-democratic systems established in Greece and the Balkan States . A further point of difference is the more liberal See also:payment of public functionaries in Crete . For administrative purposes the departmental divisions existing under the Turkish government have been retained . There are 5 nomoi or prefectures (formerly sanjaks) each under a See also:prefect (voµapXos), and 23 eparchies (formerly kazas) each under a sub-prefect (€7rapXos) . All these functionaries are nominated by the high commissioner . The prefects are assisted by depart-See also:mental See also:councils . The See also:system of municipal and communal government remains practically unchanged . The island is divided into 86 communes, each with a See also:mayor, an assistant-mayor, and a communal council elected by the See also:people . The councils assess within certain limits the communal taxes, maintain roads, See also:bridges, &c., and generally superintend See also:local affairs . Public See also:order is maintained by a force of See also:gendarmerie (XwpokuXaKtil) organized and at first commanded by Italian See also:officers, who were replaced by Greek officers in See also:December 1906 . The constitution authorizes the formation of a See also:militia (iroXtrock vXaKij) to be enrolled by See also:conscription, but in existing circumstances the embodiment of this force seems unnecessary . Justice.—The administration of justice is on the See also:French See also:model . A supreme See also:court of See also:appeal, which also discharges the functions of a court of cassation, sits at Canea . There are two See also:assize courts at Canea and Candia respectively with See also:jurisdiction in regard to serious offences (Kaxon pryilµara) . Minor offences (7rXt7µ ssXibuara) and See also:civil causes are tried by courts of first instance in each of the five departments . There are 26 justices of See also:peace, to whose decision are referred slight contraventions of the law (irraivµara) and civil causes in which the amount claimed is below 600 francs . These functionaries also hold monthly sessions in the various communes . The See also:judges are chosen without regard to religious belief, and precautions have been taken to render them See also:independent of political parties . They are appointed, promoted, transferred or removed by order of the council of justice, a See also:body composed of the five highest judicial dignitaries, sitting at Canea .
An order for the removal of a See also:judge must be based upon a conviction for some specified offence before a court of law
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The See also:jury system has not been introduced
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The Greek penal See also:code has been adopted with some modifications
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The Ottoman civil code is maintained for the present, but it is proposed to establish a code recently See also:drawn up by Greek jurists which is mainly based on Italian and Saxon law
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The Mussulman cadis retain their jurisdiction in regard to religious affairs, See also:marriage, See also:divorce, the wardship of minors and See also:inheritance
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See also:Religion and Education.—The vast See also:majority of the Christian population belongs to the Orthodox (Greek) See also: Notwithstanding the advance of £160,000 made by the four protecting powers after the institution of autonomous government and the profits (£61,937) derived from the issue of a new currency in 1900, there was at the beginning of 1906 an accumulated deficit of £23,470, which represents the floating See also:debt . In addition to the above-mentioned debt to the powers, the state contracted a See also:loan of £60,000 in 1901 to acquire the rights and privileges of the Ottoman Debt, to which the See also:salt See also:monopoly has been conceded for 20 years . In the budgets for 1905 and 1906 considerable economies were effected by the curtailment of salaries, the abolition of various posts, and the reduction of the estimates for education and public See also:works . The estimated See also:revenue and See also:expenditure for 1906 were as follows: Revenue . Expenditure . Drachmae (gold) . Drachmae (gold) . Direct taxes . 1,494,000 High Commissioner . 200,000 Indirect taxes . 1,715,000 Financial adminis- tration . 694,670 See also:Stamp dues . 351,700 Interior (including gendarmerie) . . 1,678,566 Other See also:sources 780,967 Education and Justice 1,453,500 4,341,667 4,026,736 The See also:salary of the high commissioner was reduced in 1907 to 100,000 drachmae . Improved communications are much needed for the transport of agricultural produce, but the state of the See also:treasury does not admit of more than a nominal expenditure on road-making and other public works . On these the See also:average yearly expenditure between 1898 and 1905 was £x3,404 . The prosperity of the island depends on the development of agriculture, the acquirement of industrious habits by the people, and the See also:abandonment of political agitation . The Cretans were in 1906 more lightly taxed than any other people in Europe . The tithe had been replaced by an export tax on exported agricultural produce levied at the See also:custom-houses, and the smaller See also:peasant proprietors and shepherds of the mountainous districts were practically exempt from any contribution to the state . The communal tax did not exceed on the average two francs annually for each See also:family . The poorer communes are aided by a state subvention . (J . D . B.) See also:Archaeology . The recent exploration and excavation of See also:early sites in Crete have entirely revolutionized our knowledge of its Early, remote past, and afforded the most astonishing Middle See also:evidence of the existence of a highly advanced and See also: |