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See also:FELT (cognate with Ger. Filz, Du. vilt, Swed. and See also:Dan. fill; the See also:root is unknown; the word has given Med. See also:Lat. filtrum, " See also:filter ") , a fabric produced by the " See also:matting " or " felting " together of fibrous materials such as wools, hairs, furs, &c . Most textile See also:fibres (see FIBRES) possess the quality of matting to some extent, but wools, furs and some few hairs are the only fibres which can be felted satisfactorily . It is probable that the quality of felting must be attributed to the See also:scale structure and waviness of the wools, furs and hairs referred to . When it is desired to incorporate non-felting fibres in See also:felt cloths, See also:wool must be employed to " carry " them . There are two distinct classes of felts, viz. See also:woven or " See also:thread-structure " felts, and " fibre " or true felts . In the manufacture of thread-structure felts, wools possessing the quality of felting in a high degree are naturally selected, carefully scoured so that the felting quality is not seriously damaged, spun into woollen See also:yarn possessing the necessary fibre arrangement and twist, woven into See also:cloth of such a See also:character that subsequently satisfactory shrinking or felting may be effected, and finally scoured, milled in the See also:stocks of See also:machine of both, dyed and finished on the lines of an See also:ordinary woven fabric . The lighter styles of woven felts may be composed of a single cloth only, but for the heavier styles two or more cloths are woven, one on See also:top of the other, at one and the same See also:time, arrangements being made to stitch the cloths together during the See also:weaving operation . Fibre felts are exceedingly interesting from the See also:historical point of view . It is now generally admitted that the See also:art of weaving preceded that of See also:spinning, and it must further be See also:con-ceded that the art of felting preceded that of weaving, so that the felt fabric is probably one of the See also:oldest of the various styles of recognized fabrics . The inhabitants of the See also:middle and See also:northern regions of See also:Asia seem to have employed felt from time immemorial, as clothing and also as a covering for their habitations . Most of the classical writers refer to it and some of them actually describe its manufacture . Felt was also largely employed by the ancients for their hats, See also:outer garments, and sometimes as a See also:species of See also:armour . Fibre felts may be divided into three classes, viz. ordinary felts; See also:hat felts; and impregnated felts . As all felts are based upon the ordinary felt, the See also:process of manufacture of this will first be described . Of the wools employed the See also:principal are: See also:East See also:Indian, See also:German or See also:mid-See also:European, New See also:Zealand crossbreds, and Australian, Cape and Buenos Aires merinos . See also:Vegetable fibres and See also:silk are also employed, but wool must be used to " carry " them; thus a See also:good felting wool may be made to carry its own See also:weight of See also:cotton, See also:hemp, &c . Hairs and furs are principally used in the hat felts . The See also:average loss upon the wool from the raw See also:state to the finished felt is 40 to 50% . The See also:order of the manufacturing processes is as follows:—mixing, willowing, teasing, scribbling and See also:carding . It is interesting to See also:note that it is not usual to scour felting wools . This is not because they are really clean—some are dirty—but because the felting See also:property is liable to be interfered with in the scouring operation . Some wools, however, must be scoured to ensure satisfactory working in the See also:machines . From the card the wool is delivered as a See also:gossamer-like film from 50 to 6o in. wide on to an endless See also:sheet from 30 to 6o yds. See also:long, upon which the felt is built up film upon film until the required thickness—perhaps 4 in.— is obtained . To harden this somewhat See also:tender sheet of felt it is now passed through an ironing process, effected by either steamheated-rollers—to which a rotatory and vibratory See also:motion is given —playing upon the continually See also:drawn-through cloth; or a huge vibrating See also:flat-See also:iron, to which the cloth is automatically fed, held in position and then See also:wound up while the following length to be treated is drawn under the iron . Soaping, fulling or " felting " and the ordinary See also:finishing operations—including See also:dyeing and See also:printing if desirable—now follow, so that ultimately a strong See also:firm fabric is turned out . It must be admitted, however, that the strength is much greater lengthwise than See also:cross-See also:wise, owing to the parallelization of the fibres induced in the scribbling and carding operations . Of course, the true felting or contraction occurs in the fulling or felting stock, the fabric being perpetually " hammered " in the presence of fulling agents such as See also:soap, See also:fuller's See also:earth, &c., for a considerable time . The reduction in width, length and thickness is remarkable . This may be con-trolled within certain limits . The principal styles of ordinary fibre-felts are—linings for coats, See also:furniture.and See also:rubber shoes; See also:saddlery; seatings for carriages and pews; carpets, surrounds and under-felts for carpets; mantles, dresses and table-cloths; felt-slippers; See also:mattress felts; See also:chest-preservers, and See also:shoulder-pads; See also:steam-See also:engine packing, motor-See also:car and See also:anti-vibration felts, See also:shipbuilding felts; See also:drawing-See also:roller felts and See also:gun-See also:wad felts . Hat felts may be divided into two classes, viz. those made from wool and See also:fur respectively . Wool "bodies" used for the See also:lower quality hats are manufactured in the same way as ordinary felts, but the " shape " upon which the film issuing from the carder is built up takes the See also:form of a See also:double See also:cone and thus approximates to the shape of the two hats ultimately formed . The shape is further controlled and See also:developed in the fulling or felting operation . In the fur hat felts an See also:air-blast is employed to carry the finely separated fibres on to the shape required, upon which shape the fibres are held in position by suction until the required thickness is obtained . The structure is then further developed and " stiffened," i.e. impregnated with certain stiffening agents according to requirements . If desirable the exterior fibres blown on to any shape may be of a different material from the See also:body fabric . Impregnated felts are simply felts made in the ordinary waybut subsequently impregnated with certain agents which give a See also:special quality to the fabric . Messrs McNeill & Co., of See also:London, were the originators of " asphalted-felt " for roofing and, among other styles, See also:place on the See also:market sheathing felt, inodorous felt, dry See also:hair felt, See also:foundation felt, &c., &c . A later development, however, is the impregnated iron-felt manufactured by Messrs Mitchells, Ashworth, Stansfield & Co., of Waterfoot, near See also:Manchester, who not only produce from 70 to 8o % of the ordinary felts manufactured in See also:Great See also:Britain, but also place on the market several specialties of which this " iron-felt " is largely used in the construction of See also:bridges, &c., and as a substitute for rubber, it being apparently more durable . (A . F . |
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