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GIBRALTAR

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Originally appearing in Volume V11, Page 942 of the 1911 Encyclopedia Britannica.
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GIBRALTAR  , a See also:

British fortress and See also:crown See also:colony at the western entrance to the Mediterranean . The whole territory is rather less than 3 M. in length from See also:north to See also:south and varies in width from 4 to m . Gibraltar is called after Tariq (or Tarik) See also:ben Zaid, its name being a corruption of See also:Jebel Tariq (See also:Mount Tariq) . Tariq invaded See also:Andalusia in A.D . 711 with an See also:army of 12,000 See also:Arabs and See also:Berbers, and in the last days of See also:July of that See also:year destroyed the See also:Gothic See also:power in a three days' fight on the See also:banks of the See also:river Guadalete near where Jerez de la Frontera now stands . In See also:order to secure his communications with See also:Africa he ordered the See also:building of a strong See also:castle upon the See also:Rock, known to the See also:Romans as See also:Mons Calpe . This See also:work, begun in the year of the See also:great See also:battle, was completed in 742 . It covered a wide See also:area, reaching from the shores of the See also:bay to a point See also:half-way up the north-western slope of the rock; here the keep, a massive square See also:tower, still stands and is known as the Moorish castle . The Rock itself is about 221n. in length, and at its See also:northern end rises almost perpendicularly from the See also:strip of See also:flat sandy ground which connects it with the See also:Spanish mainland . At the north end, on the See also:crest of the Rock 1200 ft. above See also:sea-level, is the Rock See also:gun, famous in the great See also:siege . Some six furlongs to the south is the See also:signal station (1255 ft.), through which the names and messages of passing See also:ships are cabled to all parts of the See also:world . Rather less than m. south of the signal station is O'Hara's Tower (1408 ft.) , the highest point of the Rock .

South of O'Hara's Tower the ground falls steeply to See also:

Windmill See also:Hill, a fairly even See also:surface about s of a sq. m. in area, and sloping from 400 to 300 ft. above the sea-level . South of Windmill Hill are See also:Europa Flats, a See also:wall-like cliff 200 ft. or more in height dividing them . Europa Fiats, sloping south, end in cliffs 50 ft. high, which at and around Europa . Point plunge straight down into deep See also:water . Europa Point is the most See also:southern point of the Rock, and is distant 112 nautical See also:miles from the opposite See also:African See also:coast . On Europa Point is the lighthouse in 5° 21' W. and 36° 6' 30" N . On the Mediterranean See also:side the Rock is almost as steep and inaccessible as it is from the north . Below the signal station, at the edge of the Mediterranean, lies Catalan Bay, where there is a little See also:village chiefly inhabited by fishermen and others who make their living upon the See also:waters; but Catalan Bay can only be approachedby See also:land from the north or by a See also:tunnel through the Rock from the dockyard; from Catalan Bay to Europa Point the way is barred by impassable cliffs . On the See also:west side of the Rock the slopes are less steep, especially as they near the sea, and on this side See also:lie the See also:town, the See also:Alameda or public gardens, the See also:barracks and the dockyard . See also:Geology.—The rock of Gibraltar consists, for the most See also:part, of See also:pale See also:grey See also:limestone of compact and sometimes crystalline structure, generally stratified but in places apparently amorphous . Above the limestone are found layers of dark grey-See also:blue shales with intercalated beds of grit, mudstone and limestone . Both limestone and shales are of the See also:Lower See also:Jurassic See also:age .

Professors A . C . See also:

Ramsay and See also:James See also:Geikie (Quarterly See also:Journal of the See also:Geological Society, See also:London, See also:August 1878) found also in the superficial formations of the Rock various features of See also:interest to the students of See also:Pleistocene geology, including massive accumulations of limestone See also:breccia or See also:agglomerate, See also:bone breccias, deposits of calcareous See also:sandstone, raised beaches and loose sands . The See also:oldest of these superficial formations is the limestone breccia of Buena Vista, devoid of fossils and apparently formed under the stress of hard frosts, indicating conditions of See also:climate of great severity . To See also:account for frosts like these, it is suggested that the surface of the Rock must have been raised to an See also:elevation much greater than its See also:present height . In that See also:case See also:Europe and Africa would probably have been connected by an See also:isthmus across some part of the present site of the Straits, and there would have been a wider area of See also:low ground See also:round the See also:base of the Rock . The low ground at this, and probably at a later See also:period, must have been clothed with a See also:rich vegetation, necessary for the support of a varied mammalian See also:fauna, whose remains have been found in the See also:Genista caves . After this there would seem to have been a subsidence to a See also:depth of some Y . Commercial Mode uuuu O Q cc m 0 :1 %Mile I . See also:Convent a . See also:Cathedral 3 . See also:Garrison Library e .

Chill See also:

Hospital 5 . See also:Court See also:House 6 . See also:Exchange 7 . Presbyterian See also:Church 8 . Wesleyan Church See also:Emery See also:Walter ge . 700 ft. below the existing level . This would account for the ledges and platforms which have been formed by erosion of the sea high above the present sea-level, and for the deposits of calcareous See also:sand-See also:stone containing sea shells of existing Mediterranean See also:species . The extent of some of these eroded ledges shows that pauses of See also:long duration intervened between the periods of depression . The Rock seems after this to have been raised to a level considerably above that at which it now stands; Europe and Africa would then again have been See also:united . At a later date still the Rock sank once more to its present level . Many caves, some of them of great extent, penetrate the interior of the rock; the best known of these are the Genista and St See also:Michael's caves . St Michael's See also:cave, about 1100 ft. above sea-level at its mouth, slopes rapidly down and extends over 400 ft. into the Rock; its extreme limits have not, however, been fully explored .

It consists of a See also:

series of five or more See also:chambers of considerable extent, connected by narrow and crooked passages . The outermost cave is 7o ft. in height and 200 in length, with massive pillars of stalactite reaching from roof to See also:floor . The second cave was named the See also:Victoria cave by its discoverer See also:Captain See also:Brome; beyond these are three caves known as the Leonora caves . " Nothing," writes Captain Brome, '" can exceed the beauty, of the See also:stalactites; they See also:form clusters of every imaginable shape—statuettes, pillars, foliages, figures," and he adds that See also:American visitors have admitted that even the See also:Mammoth cave itself could not See also:rival these See also:giant stalactites in picturesque beauty . The mammalian remains of the Genista cave have been described by G . See also:Busk (" See also:Quaternary Fauna of Gibraltar " in Trans. of Zool . See also:Soc. vol . X. p . 2, 1877) . They were found to contain remains of a See also:bear, probably Ursus fossilis of See also:Goldfuss; of a See also:hyena, H. crocuta or spclaea; of See also:cats varying from a See also:leopard to a See also:wild See also:cat in See also:size; of a See also:rhinoceros, resembling in species remains found in the See also:Thames valley; two forms of See also:ibex; the See also:hare and See also:rabbit . No trace has been found as yet of Rhinoceros tichorinus, of Ursus spelaeus or of the See also:reindeer; and of the See also:elephant only a molar tooth of Elephas antiquus . Further details may be found in the Quarterly Journ. of Geol .

Soc . (James See also:

Smith of Jordanhill), vol. ii. and in vol. xxi . (Fossil Contents of the Genista Cave, G . Busk and See also:Hugh See also:Falconer; reprinted in Palaeontological See also:Memoirs, H . Falconer, London, 1868) . See also:Flora.—The upper part of the Rock is in summer burnt up and See also:brown, but after the first autumn rains and during the See also:winter, See also:spring and See also:early summer, it abounds in wild See also:flowers and shrubs . I n the public and other gardens on the lower ground, where there is a greater depth of See also:soil, the vegetation is luxuriant and is only limited by the See also:supply of water available for summer See also:irrigation . Dr E . F . Kelaart (Flora Calpensis, London, 1846) enumerates more than four See also:hundred varieties of See also:plants and ferns indigenous to Gibraltar, and about fifty more which have been introduced from abroad . Of the former a few are said to be species See also:peculiar to the Rock . The stone-See also:pine and wild-See also:olive are perhaps the only trees found growing in a natural See also:state .

In the public and private gardens and by the roadside may be seen the See also:

pepper See also:tree, the See also:plane, the See also:white See also:poplar, the See also:acacia, the bella-sombra (Phytolacca dioica), the See also:eucalyptus or blue See also:gum tree, and palms of different species; and, of See also:fruit trees, the See also:orange, See also:lemon, fig, See also:pomegranate, See also:loquat and See also:almond . The See also:aloe, flowering aloe and prickly See also:pear are See also:common, and on the eastern side of the Rock the palmito or See also:dwarf See also:palm (Chamaerops humilis) is abundant . Fauna.—The fauna of Gibraltar, from want of space, is necessarily scanty . The See also:Barbary apes, said to be the only wild monkeys in Europe, are still to be found on the upper part of the Rock, but in very reduced See also:numbers; about the beginning of the loth See also:century four or five only remained, which were said to be all See also:females; a See also:young male, however, was brought from Africa . The last male of the See also:original stock, an old See also:patriarch, who had died shortly before this, is believed to have killed and, it is said, eaten all the young ones . A small variety of See also:pigeon breeds in the steep cliffs at the north end of the Rock . A few red-legged partridges, some rabbits, two or three foxes and a See also:badger or two will See also:complete the See also:list . Climate.—The climate of Gibraltar is pleasant and healthy, mild in winter, and only moderately hot in summer; but the See also:heat, though not excessive, is lasting . The three months of See also:June, July and August are almost always without See also:rain, and it is not often that rain falls in the months of May and See also:September . The first autumn rains, however, which sometimes begin in September, are usually heavy . From See also:October to May the climate is for the most part delightful, warm See also:sunshine prevailing, tempered by cool breezes; the spells of See also:bad See also:weather, although blustering enough at times, are seldom of more than a few days' duration . The thermometer in summer does not often reach 900 F. in the shade; from 83° to 85° may be taken to be the See also:average maximum for July and August, and these are the hottest months of the year .

The average yearly rainfall is 34.4 in., and in fifty years from 1857 to 1906 the greatest recorded rainfall was 59'35 in., and the smallest 16.75 in . The water-supply for drinking and cooking purposes is almost wholly derived from rain-water stored chiefly in underground tanks; there are very few goodwells . Many of the better class of houses have their own rain-water tanks, and there are large tanks belonging to the See also:

naval and military authorities . Large storage tanks have been constructed by the sanitary commissioners with specially prepared See also:collecting areas high up the Rock . The collecting areas See also:cover 16 acres, and the storage tanks have a capacity of over six million gallons . The tanks are excavated in the solid rock, whereby the water is kept in the dark and cool . A large quantity of brackish water for See also:flushing purposes and See also:baths is pumped from the sandy flats of the north front on the Spanish side of the Rock . The Town.—The See also:modern town of Gibraltar is of comparatively See also:recent date, nearly all the older buildings having been destroyed during the great siege (1779-1783) . The town lies, with most of its buildings crowded together, at the north-western corner of the Rock, and covers only about one-ninth part of the whole area; only a small part of it is on level ground, and those of its narrow streets and lanes which are at right angles to the See also:line wall, or sea front, are for the most part, except at their western ends, little more than ramps or rough stairs formed of See also:rubble stones, contracting in places into stone steps . The public buildings present few, if any, features of See also:general interest . The " Convent " rebuilt upon the remains of an old Franciscan monastery is the See also:official See also:residence of the See also:governor . The See also:Anglican cathedral is a poor See also:imitation of Moorish See also:architecture .

The garrison library has excellent See also:

reading rooms and a large number, of volumes of See also:miscellaneous interest . The See also:civil hospital is a well-planned and roomy modern building . The court-house and exchange buildings are suited to the needs of the town . The See also:antiquary may here and there find the remains of a Moorish See also:bath forming part of a See also:stable, or fragments of a sculptured stone gateway bearing the arms of See also:Castile or of See also:Aragon built into the wall of a modern barrack . In a small disused graveyard, near See also:Southport See also:gate, lie buried a number of those wild, See also:fell at See also:Trafalgar . To the south of the town are the Alameda See also:parade and gardens, a lunatic See also:asylum, the dockyard, graving docks and the naval and military hospitals . See also:Population.—The inhabitants of Gibraltar are of mixed See also:race; after the See also:capture of the town by the British nearly the whole of the former Spanish population emigrated in a See also:body and founded, 6 m. away, the little town of See also:San Roque . Most of the native inhabitants 'are of See also:Italian or Genoese descent; there are also a number of Maltese, and between two and three thousand See also:Jews . The Jews never intermarry with other races and form a distinct society of their own . The See also:language of the See also:people is Spanish, not very correctly spoken . See also:English is learnt as a See also:foreign language and is rarely, if ever, spoken by the people in their own homes . Gibraltar being primarily a fortress and naval base, every effort, in view of See also:war contingencies, is made by the authorities to prevent the natural increase of the population .

Sanitary and building regulations, modelled upon English statutes designed with quite different See also:

objects, are administered with some ingenuity and not a little severity . In this way the house See also:room available for the poorer classes is steadily reduced . The poor are thus being gradually pushed across the frontier into the neighbouring Spanish town of La Linea de la See also:Concepcion, itself a See also:mere suburb of Gibraltar, whose population, however, is nearly See also:double that of the See also:parent See also:city . A large army of workers come daily from " the Lines " into Gibraltar, returning at " first evening gunfire " shortly after sunset, at which See also:time the See also:gates are closed and locked for the See also:night . Aliens are not allowed to reside in Gibraltar without a See also:special permit, which must be renewed at See also:short intervals . By an order in See also:council, taking effect from See also:November 1900, the like disabilities were extended to British subjects not previously See also:resident . The recorded births, marriages and deaths over a period of 23 years are as follows:— Yearly Average . Births . Marriages . Deaths . 1883-1885 . 621 177 513 1886-1890 .

. 603 167 514 1891-1895 . . 626 186 460 1896-1900 . . 641 201 498 1901-1905 . . 629 201 472 940 The numbers of the population from causes which have been referred to are almost stationary, showing a slight tendency to decrease . There are no available See also:

statistics later than those of a See also:census taken in 1901, from which it appeared that the population then numbered 27,460, of whom the garrison and its families amounted to 6595, the civil population, being British subjects, to 17,818, and aliens resident under permits to 3047 . The latter are chiefly working men and domestic servants . Constitution.—Gibraltar is a crown colony . Of See also:local See also:government properly so called there is none . There is a sanitary See also:commission which is vested with large See also:powers of spending and with the See also:control of buildings and streets and other matters managed by local authorities in See also:England . Its members are appointed by the governor . An See also:appeal from their decisions, so far as they affect individuals, lies to the supreme court . Apart from the garrison and civil officials there are comparatively few members of the Anglican Church .

The great See also:

majority of the people belong to the Church of See also:Rome . The Jews have four synagogues . The See also:Protestant dissenters have two places of See also:worship, Presbyterian and Wesleyan . See also:Education is not compulsory for the civil population, but most of the See also:children, if not all, receive a See also:fair education in private or private aided See also:schools . The number of the children on the rolls of the private and private aided schools was in 1905: boys, 1504; girls, 1733; See also:total 3237 . See also:Commerce.—Except in respect of alcoholic liquors and See also:tobacco Gibraltar has been a See also:free See also:port since the year 1705—a distinction due, it is said, to the refusal of a See also:sultan of See also:Morocco to allow of much-needed exports from Morocco to Gibraltar if full See also:liberty of See also:trade were not granted to his subjects . During the great See also:wars of the beginning of the 19th century trade was most active in Gibraltar, and some large fortunes were made; but trade on a large See also:scale has almost disappeared . At the point of contact of two continents, on the See also:direct line of ocean trade with the far See also:East, in See also:regular See also:steam communication with all the great ports of Europe and with North and South See also:America, Gibraltar, by its position, is fitted to be a trade centre of the world, but the unrest and suspicion engendered in Morocco by the intrigues and designs of the See also:European powers, and excessive protective duties and maladministration in See also:Spain, have done much to extinguish the trade of Gibraltar . There are, however, no trustworthy statistics of imports and exports . Before the year 1898 See also:wine, See also:beer and See also:spirits were the only goods which paid See also:duty . In that year a duty of id. per lb was for the first time put upon tobacco and produced £1444; the duty was, however, in force only for a part of the year; in 1899 the duty, at the same See also:rate, produced £7703 . In 1902 the duty on tobacco was raised to 2d. per lb and produced £29,311 .

Phoenix-squares

In 1905 this duty produced £24,575 . The See also:

chief business of Gibraltar is the coaling of passing steamers; this gives work to several thousand men . Goods are also landed for re-export to Morocco, but the bulk of the Morocco trade, much of which formerly came to Gibraltar, is now done by lines of steamers trading to and from Morocco direct to British, See also:German or See also:French ports . Nearly all the fresh See also:meat consumed in Gibraltar comes from Morocco, also large quantities of poultry and eggs . A fair amount of See also:retail business is done with the passengers of ocean steamers which See also:call on their way to and from the East and from North and South America . The steam- See also:tonnage cleared annually since 1883 is shown in the following table: Yearly Average . British . Foreign . Total . 1883–1885 . . 3,525,135 817,926 4,343,061 1886–1890 . . 4,507,101 908,419 5,415,520 1891–1895 • • 3,710,856 975,390 4,686,246 1896-1900 3,281,165 1,063,367 4,344,532 1901-1905 2,810,849 1,309,649 4,120,498 The See also:main See also:sources of See also:revenue are (i.) duties upon wine, spirits, See also:malt liquors and tobacco; (ii.) port and See also:harbour dues; (iii.) See also:tavern and other licences; (iv.) See also:post and See also:telegraph; (v.) ground and other rents; (vi.) stamps and miscellaneous .

The returns before 1898 were made in pesetas (5=$I) . In the following table these have been converted into See also:

sterling at an average of exchange 30=£1 . The See also:money, weights and See also:measures in legal use are British . Before 1898 Spanish money only was in use . The great depreciation of the Spanish currency during the war with the United States led in 1898 to the reintroduction of British currency as the legal See also:tender money of Gibraltar . Notwithstanding this See also:change the Spanish See also:dollar still remains in current use; much of the retail business of the town being done with persons resident in Spain, the dollar fully holds its own . Harbour and Fortifications.—Great changes were made in the defences of Gibraltar early in the 20th century . Guns of the newest types replaced those of older patterns . The heavier pieces instead of being at or near the sea-level, are now high up, many of them on the crest line of the Rock; their lateral range and See also:fire area has thereby been greatly increased and their efficiency improved in See also:combination with an elaborate See also:system of range finding . With the completion of the new dockyard See also:works the value of Gibraltar as a naval base has greatly increased . It can now undertake all the See also:ordinary See also:repairs and coaling of a large See also:fleet . There is an enclosed harbour in which a fleet can safely See also:anchor secure from the attacks of See also:torpedo boats .

A See also: