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HEBRIDES, THE, or WESTERN ISLES

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Originally appearing in Volume V13, Page 192 of the 1911 Encyclopedia Britannica.
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HEBRIDES, THE, or WESTERN ISLES  , a See also:group of islands off the See also:west See also:coast of See also:Scotland . They are situated between 550 35' and 58° 30' N. and 5° 26' and 8° 40' W . Formerly the See also:term was held to embrace not only all the islands off the Scottish western coast, including the islands in the See also:Firth of See also:Clyde, but also the See also:peninsula of Kintyre, the Isle of See also:Man and the Isle of Rathlin, off the coast of See also:Antrim . They have been broadly classified into the See also:Outer See also:Hebrides and the Inner Hebrides, the Minch and Little Minch dividing the one group from the other . Geologically, they have also been differentiated as the See also:Gneiss Islands and the See also:Trap Islands . The Outer Hebrides being almost entirely composed of gneiss the epithet suitably serves them, but, strictly speaking, only the more northerly of the Inner Hebrides may be distinguished as Trap Islands . The See also:chief islands of the Outer Hebrides are See also:Lewis-with-See also:Harris (or See also:Long See also:Island), See also:North See also:Uist, Benbecula, See also:South Uist, See also:Barra, the Shiants, St Kilda and the Flannan Isles, or Seven Hunters, an uninhabited group, about 20 M . N.W. of See also:Gallon See also:Head in Lewis . Of these the Lewis portion of Long Island, the Shiants and the Flannan belong to the See also:county of See also:Ross and See also:Cromarty, and the See also:remainder to See also:Inverness-See also:shire . The See also:total length of this group, from Barra Head to the See also:Butt of Lewis, is 130 m., the breadth varying from less than r m. to 3o m . The Inner Hebrides are much more scattered and principally include See also:Skye, Small Isles (Canna, Sanday, See also:Rum, Eigg and Muck), See also:Coll, See also:Tyree, See also:Lismore, See also:Mull, Ulva, See also:Staffa, See also:Iona, Kerrera, the See also:Slate Islands (Seil, Easdale, Luing, Shuna, Torsay), See also:Colonsay, Oronsay, Scarba, See also:Jura, See also:Islay and Gigha . Of these Skye and Small Isles belong to Inverness-shire, and the See also:rest to See also:Argyllshire .

The Hebridean islands exceed 500 in number, of which one-fifth are inhabited . Of the inhabited islands 11 belong to Ross and Cromarty, 47 to Inverness-shire, and 44 to Argyllshire, but of this total of 102 islands, one-third have a See also:

population of only ro souls, or fewer, each . The population of the Hebrides in 1901 numbered 78,947 (or 28 to the sq. m.), of whom 41,031 were See also:females, who thus exceeded the See also:males by ro%, and 22,733 spoke Gaelic only and 47,666 Gaelic and See also:English . The most populous island is Lewis-with-Harris (32,160), and next to it are Skye (13,883), Islay (68J7) and Mull (4334)• Of the total See also:area of 1,Soo,000 acres, or 2812 sq. m., only one-ninth is cultivated, most of the See also:surface being moorland and See also:mountain . The See also:annual rainfall, particularly in the Inner Hebrides, is heavy (42.6 in. at See also:Stornoway) but the temperature is high, averaging for the See also:year 47° F . Potatoes and turnips are the only See also:root crops that succeed, and See also:barley and oats are grown in some of the islands . See also:Sheep-farming and See also:cattle-raising are carried on very generally, and, with the See also:fisheries, provide the See also:main occupation of the inhabitants, though they profit not a little from the tourists who See also:flock to many of the islands through-out the summer . The See also:principal See also:industries include distilling, slate-See also:quarrying and the manufacture of tweeds, tartans and other woollens . There are extensive See also:deer forests in Lewis-with-Harris, Skye, Mull and Jura . On many of the islands there are prehistoric remains and antiquities within the See also:Christian See also:period . The more populous islands are in See also:regular communication with certain points of the mainland by means of steamers fromGlasgow, See also:Oban and Mallaig . The See also:United See also:Free See also:Church has a strong hold on the poeple, but in a few of the islands the See also:Roman Catholics have a See also:great following .

In the larger inhabited islands See also:

board See also:schools have been established . The islands unite with the counties to which they belong in returning members to See also:parliament (one for each shire) . See also:History.—The Hebrides are mentioned by See also:Ptolemy under the name of "E(3ovta,c and by See also:Pliny under that of Hebudes, the See also:modern spelling having, it is said, originated in a misprint . By the Norwegians they were called Sudreyjar or See also:Southern Islands . The Latinized See also:form was Sodorenses, preserved to modern times in the See also:title of the See also:bishop of Sodor and Man . The See also:original inhabitants seem to have been of the same See also:Celtic See also:race as those settled on the mainland . In the 6th See also:century Scandinavian hordes poured in with their See also:northern See also:idolatry and lust of See also:plunder, but in See also:time they adopted the See also:language and faith of the islanders . Mention is made of incursions of the vikings as See also:early as 793, but the principal See also:immigration took See also:place towards the end of the 9th century in the early See also:part of the reign of See also:Harald Fairhair, See also:king of See also:Norway, and consisted of persons driven to the Hebrides, as well as to See also:Orkney and See also:Shetland, to See also:escape from his tyrannous See also:rule . Soon afterwards they began to make incursions against their See also:mother-See also:country, and on this See also:account Harald fitted out an expedition against them, and placed Orkney, Shetland, the Hebrides and the Isle of Man under See also:Norwegian See also:government . The chief seat of the Norwegian See also:sovereignty was Colonsay . About the year 1095 Godred Crovan, king of See also:Dublin, Man and the Hebrides, died in Islay . His third son, See also:Olaf, succeeded to the government about 1103, and the daughter of Olaf was married to Somerled, who became the founder of the See also:dynasty known as Lords of the Isles .

Phoenix-squares

Many efforts were made by the Scottish monarchs to displace the Norwegians . See also:

Alexander II. led a See also:fleet and See also:army to the shores of Argyllshire in 1249, but he died on the island of Kerrera . On the other See also:hand, See also:Haakon IV., king of Norway, at once to restrain the See also:independence of his jarls and to keep in check the ambition of the Scottish See also:kings, set See also:sail in 1263 on a great expedition, which, however, ended disastrously at See also:Largs . See also:Magnus, son of Haakon, concluded in 1266 a See also:peace with the Scots, renouncing all claim to the Hebrides and other islands except Orkney and Shetland, and Alexander III. agreed to give him a sum of 4000 merks in four yearly payments . It was also stipulated that See also:Margaret, daughter of Alexander, should be betrothed to See also:Eric, the son of Magnus, whom she married in 1281 . She died two years later, leaving an only daughter afterwards known as the Maid of Norway . The race of Somerled continued to rule the islands, and from a younger son of the same potentate sprang the lords of Lorne, who took the patronymic of Macdougall . See also:John See also:Macdonald of Islay, who died about 1386, was the first to adopt the title of See also:Lord of the Isles . He was one of the most potent of the island princes, and was married to a daughter of the See also:earl of Strathearn, afterwards See also:Robert II . His son, Donald of the Isles, was memorable for his See also:rebellion in support of his claim to the earldom of Ross, in which, however, he was unsuccessful . Alexander, son of Donald, resumed the hereditary warfare against the Scottish See also:crown; and in 1462 a treaty was concluded between Alexander's son and successor John and See also:Edward IV. of See also:England, by which John, his son John, and his See also:cousin Donald Balloch, becamebound to assist King Edward and See also:James, earl of See also:Douglas, in subduing the See also:kingdom of Scotland . The See also:alliance seems to have led to no active operations .

In the reign of James V. another John of Islay resumed the title of Lord of the Isles, but was compelled to surrender the dignity . The See also:

glory of the lordship of the isles—the insular sovereignty—had departed . From the time of See also:Bruce the Campbells had been gaining the ascendancy in See also:Argyll . The Macleans, Macnaughtons, Maclachlans, Lamonts, and other See also:ancient races had sunk before this favoured See also:family . The lordship of Lorne was wrested from the Macdougalls by Robert Bruce, and their extensive possessions, with See also:Dunstaffnage See also:Castle, bestowed on the king's relative, See also:Stewart, and his descendants, afterwards lords of Lorne . The Macdonalds of Sleat, the See also:direct representatives of Somerled, though driven from Islay and deprived of supreme See also:power by James V., still kept a sort of insular See also:state in Skye . There were also the Macdonalds of Clanranald and Glengarry (descendants of Somerled), with the powerful houses of See also:Macleod of Dunvegan and Macleod of Harris, M`See also:Neill of Barra and Maclean of Mull . Sanguinary feuds continued throughout the 16th and 17th centuries among these See also:rival clans and their dependent tribes, and the turbulent spirit was not subdued till a comparatively See also:recent period . James VI. made an abortive endeavour to colonize Lewis . See also:William III. and See also:Queen See also:Anne attempted to subsidize the chiefs in See also:order to preserve tranquillity, but the See also:wars of See also:Montrose and See also:Dundee, and the Jacobite insurrections of 1715 and 1745, showed how futile were all such efforts . It was not till 1748, when a decisive See also:blow was struck at the power of the chiefs by the abolition of heritable jurisdictions, and the See also:appointment of sheriffs in the different districts, that the arts of peace and social improvement made way in these remote regions . The See also:change was great, and at first not unmixed with evil .

A new See also:

system of management and high rents were imposed, in consequence of which See also:numbers of the tacksmen, or large tenants, emigrated to North See also:America . The See also:exodus continued for many years . Sheep-farming on a large See also:scale was next introduced, and the crofters were thrust into villages or barren corners of the See also:land . The result was that, despite the numbers who entered the army or emigrated to See also:Canada, the See also:standard of See also:civilization sank See also:lower, and the population multiplied in the islands . The See also:people came to subsist almost entirely on potatoes and See also:herrings; and in 1846, when the See also:potato blight began its ravages, nearly universal destitution ensued—embracing, over the islands generally, 70% of the inhabitants . Temporary See also:relief was administered in the shape of employment on roads and other See also:works; and an See also:emigration fund being raised, from 4000 to 5000 of the people in the most crowded districts were removed to See also:Australia . Matters, however, were not really mended, and in 1884 a royal See also:commission reported upon the See also:condition of the crofters of the islands and mainland . As a result of their inquiry the Crofters' Holdings See also:Act was passed in 1886, and in the course of a few years some improvement was evident and has since been sustained . AUTHoRTTIES.—See also:Martin Martin's Description of the Western Islands of Scotland (1703); T . See also:Pennant's Tour in Scotland and Voyage to the Hebrides (1774); James See also:Boswell's Tour to the Hebrides with See also:Samuel See also:Johnson, LL.D . (1898); John See also:Macculloch's See also:Geological Account of the Hebrides (1819) ; See also:Hugh See also:Miller's Cruise of the " Betsy " (1858) ; W . A .

See also:

Smith's Lewisiana, or See also:Life in the Outer Hebrides (1874); Alexander Smith, A Summer in Skye (1865); Robert See also:Buchanan, The Bebrid Isles (1883) ; C . F . See also:Gordon-See also:Cumming, In the Hebrides (1883) ; See also:Report o the Crofters' Commission (1884); A . See also:Goodrich-Freer, Oute' Isles (1902); and W . C . See also:Mackenzie, History of the Outer Hebrides (19o3) . Their history under Norwegian rule is given in the Chronica regum Manniae et insularum, edited, with learned notes, from the MS. in the See also:British Museum by See also:Professor P . A . Munch of See also:Christiania (186o) .

End of Article: HEBRIDES, THE, or WESTERN ISLES
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