Search over 40,000 articles from the original, classic Encyclopedia Britannica, 11th Edition.
|
See also:ISFAHAN (older See also:form Ispahan) , the name of a See also:Persian See also:province and See also:town . The province is situated in the centre of the See also:country, and bounded S. by See also:Fars, E. by See also:Yezd, N. by See also:Kashan, See also:Natanz and See also:Irak, and W. by the See also:Bakhtiari See also:district and See also:Arabistan . It pays a yearly See also:revenue of about £100,000, and its See also:population exceeds 5oo,000 . It is divided into twenty-five districts, its See also:capital, the town of See also:Isfahan, forming one of them . These twenty-five districts, some very small and consisting of only a little township and a few hamlets, are Isfahan, Jai, Barkhar, Kahab, Kararaj, Baraan, Rudasht, Marbin, Lenjan, Kerven, Rar, Kiar, Mizdej, Ganduman, Somairam, Jarkuyeh, Ardistan, Kuhpayeh . Na.jafahad,Komisheh,Chadugan,Varzek,Tokhmaklu, Gurji, Chinarud . Most of these districts are very fertile, and produce See also:great quantities of See also:wheat, See also:barley, See also:rice, See also:cotton, See also:tobacco and See also:opium . Lenjan, See also:west of the See also:city of Isfahan, is the greatest rice-producing district; the finest cotton comes from Jarkuyeh; the best opium and tobacco from the villages in the vicinity of the city . The town of Isfahan or Ispahan, formerly the capital of See also:Persia, now the capital of the province, is situated on the Zayendeh See also:river in 32° 39' N. and 51° 40' E.' at an See also:elevation of 5370 it . Its population, excluding that of the Armenian See also:colony of Julfa on the right or See also:south See also:bank of the river (about 4000), is estimated at 100,000 (73,6J4, including 5883 See also:Jews, in 1882) . The town is divided into See also:thirty-seven malaallehs (parishes) and has 210 mosques and colleges (many See also:half ruined), 84 caravanserais, 15o public See also:baths and 68 See also:flour See also:mills . The See also:water See also:supply is principally from open canals led off from the river and from several streams and canals which come down from the hills in the See also:north-west . The name of the Isfahan river was originally Zendeh (See also:Pahlavi zendek) rud, " the great river "; it was then modernized into Zindeh-rud, " the living river," and is now called Zayendeh rud, " the See also:life-giving river." Its See also:principal source is the Jananeh rud which rises on the eastern slope of the Zardeh Kuh about 90 to 100 M . W. of Isfahan . After receiving the Khursang river from Feridan on the north and the Zarin rud from Chaharmahal on the south it is called Zendeh rud . It then See also:waters the Lenjan and Marbin districts, passes Isfahan as Zayendeh-rud and 70 M. farther E. ends in the Gavkhani depression . From its entrance into Lenjan to its end 1o5 canals are led off from it for purposes of See also:irrigation and 14 See also:bridges See also:cross it (5 at Isfahan) . Its See also:volume of water at Isfahan during the See also:spring See also:season has been estimated at 6o,000 cub. ft. per second; in autumn the quantity is reduced to one-third, but nearly all of it being then used for feeding the irrigation canals very little is See also:left for the river See also:bed . The town covers about 20 sq. m., but many parts of it are in ruins . The old city walls—a ruined mud See also:curtain—are about 5 M. in circumference . Of the many See also:fine public buildings constructed by the Sefavis and during the reign of the See also:present See also:dynasty very little remains . There are still See also:standing in fairly See also:good repair the two palaces named respectively Chehel Situn, " the See also:forty pillars," and Hasht Behesht, " the eight paradises," the former constructed by Shah Abbas I . (1587-1629), the latter by Shah Soliman in 1670, and restored and renovated by Fath See also:Ali Shah (1797-1834) . They are ornamented with See also:gilding and mirrors in every possible variety of See also:Arabesque decoration, and large and brilliant pictures, representing scenes of Persian See also:history, See also:cover the walls of their principal apartments and have been ascribed in many instances to See also:Italian and Dutch artists who are known to have been in the service of the Sefavis .
Attached to these palaces were many other buildings such as the Imaretino built by Amin ed-Dowleh (or Addaula) for Fath Ali Shah, the Imaret i Ashref built by Ashref See also:Khan, the Afghan usurper, the See also:Talar Tavileh, Guldasteh, Sarpushideh, &c., erected in the See also:early See also:part of the 19th See also:century by wealthy courtiers for the convenience of the See also:sovereign and often occupied as residences of See also:European ministers travelling between See also:Bushire and See also:Teheran and by other distinguished travellers
.
Perhaps the most agreeable See also:residence of all was the Haft Dast, " the seven courts," in ,the beautiful See also:garden of Saadetabad on the See also:southern bank of the river, and 2 or 3 m. from the centre of the city
.
This See also:palace was built by Shah Abbas II
.
(1642-1667), and Fath Ali See also:Shad Kajar died there in 1834
.
See also:Close to it was the Aineh Khaneh, " See also: The gardens are wildernesses . The garden of the Chehel Situn palace opens out through the See also:Ala Kapu (" highest See also:gate, See also:sublime See also:porte ") to the See also:Maidan-i-Shah, which is one of the most imposing piazzas in the See also:world, a parallelogram of 56o yds . (N.-S.) by 174 yds . (E.-W.) surrounded by See also:brick buildings divided into two storeys of recessed See also:arches, or arcades, one above the other . In front of these arcades grow a few stunted planes and poplars . On the south See also:side of the maidan is the famous Masjed i Shah (the shah's See also:mosque) erected by Shah Abbas I. in 1612-1613 . It is covered with glazed tiles of great brilliancy and richly decorated with See also:gold and See also:silver ornaments and cost over £175,000 . It is in good repair, and plans of it were published by C . Texier (L'Armenie, la Perse, &c., vol. i. pls . 70-72) and P . Coste (Monuments de la Perse) . On the eastern side of the maidan stands the Masjed i Lutf Ullah with beautiful enamelled tiles and in good repair . Opposite to it on 'the western side of the maidan is the Ala Kapu, a lofty See also:building in the See also:form of an archway overlooking the maidan and crowned in the fore part by an immense open See also:throne-See also:room supported by wooden columns, while the hinder part is elevated three storeys higher . On the north side of the maidan is the entrance gate to the See also:main See also:bazaar surmounted by the Nekkareh-Khaneh, or drumhouse, where is blared forth the appalling See also:music saluting the rising and setting See also:sun, said to have been instituted by Jamshid many thousand years ago . West of the Chehel Sitars palace and conducting N.-S. from the centre of the city to the great See also:bridge of See also:Allah See also:Verdi Khan is the great See also:avenue nearly a mile in length called Chahar Bagh, " the four gardens," recalling the fact that it was originally occupied by four vineyards which Shah Abbas I. rented at £360 a See also:year and converted into a splendid approach to his capital . It was thus described by See also:Lord Curzon of Kedleston in 1880: " Of all the See also:sights of Isfahan, this in its present See also:state is the most pathetic in the utter and pitiless decay of its beauty . Let me indicate what it was and what it is . At the upper extremity a two-storeyed See also:pavilion,' connected by a See also:corridor with the Seraglio of the palace, so as to enable the ladies of the See also:harem to gaze unobserved upon the merry See also:scene below, looked out upon the centre of the avenue . Water, conducted in stone channels, ran down the centre, falling in See also:miniature cascades from See also:terrace to terrace, and was occasionally collected in great square or octagonal basins where cross roads cut the avenue . On either side of the central channel was a See also:row of See also:oriental planes and a paved pathway for pedestrians . Then occurred a See also:succession of open parterres, usually planted or sown . Next on either side was a second row of planes, between which and the flanking walls was a raised See also:causeway for horsemen . The See also:total breadth is now fifty-twn yards . At intervals corresponding with the successive terraces and basins, arched doorways with recessed open See also:chambers overhead conducted through these walls into the various royal or See also:noble gardens that stretched on either side, and were known as the Gardens of the Throne, of the See also:Nightingale, of Vines, of Mulberries, Dervishes, &c .
Some of these pavilions were places of public resort and were used as See also:coffee-houses, where when the business of the See also:day was over, the good burghers of Isfahan assembled to sip that beverage and inhale their kalians the while; as Fryer puts it: ' See also:Night See also:drawing on, all the See also:pride of Spahaun was met in the Chaurbaug and the Grandees were Airing themselves, prancing about with their numerous Trains, striving to outvie each other in Pomp and Generosity.' At the bottom, quays lined the See also:banks of the river, and were bordered with the mansions of the See also:nobility."
Such was the Chahar Bagh in the plenitude of its fame
.
But now what a tragical contrast
!
The channels are empty, their stone See also:borders crumbled and shattered, the'terraces are broken down, the parterres are unsightly See also:bare patches, the trees, all lopped and pollarded, have been chipped and hollowed out or cut down for See also:fuel by the soldiery of the Zil, the side pavilions are abandoned and tumbling to pieces and the gardens are wildernesses
.
Two centuries of decay could never make the Champs Elysees in See also:Paris, the Unter
2 This pavilion was the Persian See also:telegraph See also:office of Isfahan for nearly forty years and was demolished in 1903
.
den See also:Linden in See also:Berlin, or Rotten Row in See also:London, look one half as miserable as does the ruined avenue of Shah Abbas
.
It is in itself an See also:epitome of See also:modern See also:Iran."
Towards the upper end of the avenue on its eastern side stands the medresseh (See also:college) which Shah Hosain built in 1710
.
It still has a few students, but is very much out of repair; Lord Curzon spoke of it in 1888 as " one of the stateliest ruins that he saw in Persia." South of this college the avenue is altogether without trees, and the gardens on both sides have been turned into barley See also:fields
.
Among the other notable buildings of Isfahan must be reckoned its five bridges, all fine structures, and one of them, the bridge of Allah Verdi See also:Kahn, 388 yds. in length with a paved roadway of 30 ft. in breadth, is one of the stateliest bridges in the world, and has suffered little by the See also:
Whole streets, whole quarters of the city have fallen into utter ruin and are absolutely deserted, and the traveller who is See also:bent on visiting some of the remarkable sites in the See also:northern part of the city or in the western suburbs, such as the minarets dating from the 12th century, the remains of the famous See also:castle of Tabarrak built by the Buyid Rukn addaula (d
.
976), the ruins of the old See also:fire See also:temple, the shaking minarets of Guladan, &c., has to pass through See also:miles of crumbling mud walls and roofless houses
.
It is believed indeed that not a twentieth part of the area of the old city is at present peopled, and the million or 600,000 inhabitants of See also:Chardin's See also:time (See also:middle of the 17th century) have now dwindled to about 85,000
.
The Armenian suburb of Julfa, at any See also:rate, which contained a population of 30,000 souls in the 17th century, has now only 4000, and the See also:Christian churches, which numbered thirteen and were maintained with splendour, are now reduced to half a dozen edifices with bare walls and empty benches
.
Much improvement has recently taken See also:place in the See also:education of the See also:young and also in their religious teaching, the wealthy Armenians of See also:India and See also:Java having liberally contributed to the See also:national See also:schools, and the See also:
In the most See also:ancient See also:cuneiform documents, referring to a See also:period between 3000 and 2000 B.C., the province of Anshan, which certainly included Isfahan, was the limit of the See also:geographical knowledge of the Babylonians, typifying the extreme See also:east, as See also:Syria (or Martu-ki) typified the west
.
The two provinces of Anshan and Subarta, by which we must understand the country from Isfahan to Shuster, were ruled in those remote ages by the same See also:
The royal city of Gabae was known as a See also:foundation of the Achaemenidae as late as the time of See also:Strabo, and the See also:inscriptions show that See also:Achaemenes and his successors did actually See also:rule at Anshan until the great See also:Cyrus set out on his career of western victory
.
Whether the Kabi or Kavi of tradition, the blacksmith of Isfahan, who is said to have headed the revolt against Zohak, took his name from the town of Gabae may be open to question; but it is at any rate remarkable that the national See also:standard of the Persian race, named after the blacksmith, and supposed to have been first unfurled at this See also:epoch, retained the See also:title of Darafsh-a Kavani (the banner of Kavi) to the time of the Arab See also:conquest, and that the men of Isfahan were, moreover, throughout this See also:long period, always especially charged with its See also:protection
.
The -provincial name of Anshan or Assan seems to have been disused in the country after the See also:age of Cyrus, and to have been replaced by that, of Gabene or Gabiane, which alone appears in the See also:Greek accounts of the See also:wars of See also:
35
.
The name Isfahan has been generally compared with the Aspadana of See also:Ptolemy in the extreme north of See also:Persis, and the See also:identification is probably correct
.
At any rate the title is of great antiquity being found in the Bundahish, and being derived in all likelihood from the family name of the race of Feridan, the See also:Ath'iyan of See also:romance, who were entitled Aspiyan in Pahlavi, according to the phonetic rules of that See also:language
.
commerce, encouraging arts and manufactures, and introducing luxurious habits, to attract visitors to his favourite capital
.
He built several magnificent palaces in the richest See also:style of Oriental decoration, planted gardens and avenues, and distributed amongst them the waters of the Zendeh-rud in an endless See also:series of reservoirs, fountains and cascades
.
The baths, the mosques, the colleges, the bazaars and the caravanserais of the city received an equal See also:share of his See also:attention, and European artificers and merchants were largely encouraged to See also:settle in his capital
.
Ambassadors visited his See also:court from many of the first states of See also:Europe, and factories were permanently established for the merchants of See also:England, See also:France, See also: Originally founded by Shah Abbas the Great, who trans-ported to this locality 3400 Armenian families from the town of Julfa on the See also:Arras, the colony increased rapidly under his fostering care, both in wealth and in See also:numbers, the Christian population being estimated in 1685 at 30,000 souls . The first See also:blow to the prosperity of modern Isfahan was given by the Afghan invasion at the beginning of the 18th century, since which date, although continuing for some time to be the nominal See also:head of the empire, the city has gradually dwindled in importance, and now only ranks as a second or third rate provincial capital . When the Kajar dynasty indeed mounted the throne of Persia at the end of the 18th century the seat of government was at once transferred to Teheran, with a view to the support of the royal tribe, whose See also:chief seat was in the neighbouring province of Mazenderan; and, although it has often been proposed, from considerations of state policy in reference to See also:Russia, to re-establish the court at Isfahan, which is the true centre of Persia, the See also:scheme has never commanded much attention . At the same time the government of Isfahan, owing to the wealth of the surrounding districts, has always been much sougkt after . Early in the 19th century the See also:post was often conferred upon some powerful See also:minister of the court, but in later times it has been usually the apanage of a favourite son or See also:brother of the reigning sovereign.' Fath Ali Shah, who had a particular See also:affection for Isfahan, died here in 1834, and it became a time-honoured See also:custom for the monarch on the throne to seek See also:relief from the See also:heat of Teheran by forming a summer See also:camp at the See also:rich pastures of Ganduman, on the skirts of Zardeh-Kuh, to the west of Isfahan, for the exercise of his troops and the See also:health and amusement of his courtiers, but in See also:recent years the practice has been discontinued . (H . C . |
|
|
[back] ISERLOHN |
[next] ISHIM |
There are no comments yet for this article.
Do not copy, download, transfer, or otherwise replicate the site content in whole or in part.
Links to articles and home page are encouraged.