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ISFAHAN (older form Ispahan)

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Originally appearing in Volume V14, Page 870 of the 1911 Encyclopedia Britannica.
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ISFAHAN (older See also:form Ispahan)  , the name of a See also:Persian See also:province and See also:town . The province is situated in the centre of the See also:country, and bounded S. by See also:Fars, E. by See also:Yezd, N. by See also:Kashan, See also:Natanz and See also:Irak, and W. by the See also:Bakhtiari See also:district and See also:Arabistan . It pays a yearly See also:revenue of about £100,000, and its See also:population exceeds 5oo,000 . It is divided into twenty-five districts, its See also:capital, the town of See also:Isfahan, forming one of them . These twenty-five districts, some very small and consisting of only a little township and a few hamlets, are Isfahan, Jai, Barkhar, Kahab, Kararaj, Baraan, Rudasht, Marbin, Lenjan, Kerven, Rar, Kiar, Mizdej, Ganduman, Somairam, Jarkuyeh, Ardistan, Kuhpayeh . Na.jafahad,Komisheh,Chadugan,Varzek,Tokhmaklu, Gurji, Chinarud . Most of these districts are very fertile, and produce See also:great quantities of See also:wheat, See also:barley, See also:rice, See also:cotton, See also:tobacco and See also:opium . Lenjan, See also:west of the See also:city of Isfahan, is the greatest rice-producing district; the finest cotton comes from Jarkuyeh; the best opium and tobacco from the villages in the vicinity of the city . The town of Isfahan or Ispahan, formerly the capital of See also:Persia, now the capital of the province, is situated on the Zayendeh See also:river in 32° 39' N. and 51° 40' E.' at an See also:elevation of 5370 it . Its population, excluding that of the Armenian See also:colony of Julfa on the right or See also:south See also:bank of the river (about 4000), is estimated at 100,000 (73,6J4, including 5883 See also:Jews, in 1882) . The town is divided into See also:thirty-seven malaallehs (parishes) and has 210 mosques and colleges (many See also:half ruined), 84 caravanserais, 15o public See also:baths and 68 See also:flour See also:mills . The See also:water See also:supply is principally from open canals led off from the river and from several streams and canals which come down from the hills in the See also:north-west .

The name of the Isfahan river was originally Zendeh (See also:

Pahlavi zendek) rud, " the great river "; it was then modernized into Zindeh-rud, " the living river," and is now called Zayendeh rud, " the See also:life-giving river." Its See also:principal source is the Jananeh rud which rises on the eastern slope of the Zardeh Kuh about 90 to 100 M . W. of Isfahan . After receiving the Khursang river from Feridan on the north and the Zarin rud from Chaharmahal on the south it is called Zendeh rud . It then See also:waters the Lenjan and Marbin districts, passes Isfahan as Zayendeh-rud and 70 M. farther E. ends in the Gavkhani depression . From its entrance into Lenjan to its end 1o5 canals are led off from it for purposes of See also:irrigation and 14 See also:bridges See also:cross it (5 at Isfahan) . Its See also:volume of water at Isfahan during the See also:spring See also:season has been estimated at 6o,000 cub. ft. per second; in autumn the quantity is reduced to one-third, but nearly all of it being then used for feeding the irrigation canals very little is See also:left for the river See also:bed . The town covers about 20 sq. m., but many parts of it are in ruins . The old city walls—a ruined mud See also:curtain—are about 5 M. in circumference . Of the many See also:fine public buildings constructed by the Sefavis and during the reign of the See also:present See also:dynasty very little remains . There are still See also:standing in fairly See also:good repair the two palaces named respectively Chehel Situn, " the See also:forty pillars," and Hasht Behesht, " the eight paradises," the former constructed by Shah Abbas I . (1587-1629), the latter by Shah Soliman in 1670, and restored and renovated by Fath See also:Ali Shah (1797-1834) . They are ornamented with See also:gilding and mirrors in every possible variety of See also:Arabesque decoration, and large and brilliant pictures, representing scenes of Persian See also:history, See also:cover the walls of their principal apartments and have been ascribed in many instances to See also:Italian and Dutch artists who are known to have been in the service of the Sefavis .

Attached to these palaces were many other buildings such as the Imaretino built by Amin ed-Dowleh (or Addaula) for Fath Ali Shah, the Imaret i Ashref built by Ashref See also:

Khan, the Afghan usurper, the See also:Talar Tavileh, Guldasteh, Sarpushideh, &c., erected in the See also:early See also:part of the 19th See also:century by wealthy courtiers for the convenience of the See also:sovereign and often occupied as residences of See also:European ministers travelling between See also:Bushire and See also:Teheran and by other distinguished travellers . Perhaps the most agreeable See also:residence of all was the Haft Dast, " the seven courts," in ,the beautiful See also:garden of Saadetabad on the See also:southern bank of the river, and 2 or 3 m. from the centre of the city . This See also:palace was built by Shah Abbas II . (1642-1667), and Fath Ali See also:Shad Kajar died there in 1834 . See also:Close to it was the Aineh Khaneh, " See also:hall of mirrors " and other elegant buildings in the Ilazar jerib (l000 See also:acre) garden . All these palaces and buildings on both sides of the river were surrounded by extensive gardens, traversed by avenues of tall r These figures are approximate for the centre of the town north of the river . The result of astronomical observations taken by the See also:German expedition for observing the transit of See also:Venus in 1874 and by See also:Sir O . St See also:John in 187o on the south bank of the river near, and in Julia respectively was 51° 40' 3.45" E., 32° 37' 30" N . The See also:stone slab commemorating the See also:work of the expedition and placed on the spot where the observations were taken has been carried off and now serves as a See also:door See also:plinth of an Armenian See also:house.trees, principally planes, and intersected by paved canals of See also:running water with tanks and fountains . Since Fath All Shah's See also:death, palaces and gardens have been neglected . In 1902 an See also:official was sent from Teheran to inspect the See also:crown buildings, to See also:report on their See also:condition, and repair and renovate some, &c . The result was that all the above-mentioned buildings, excepting the Chehel Situn and Hasht Behesht, were demolished and their See also:timber, bricks, stone, &c., sold to See also:local builders .

The gardens are wildernesses . The garden of the Chehel Situn palace opens out through the See also:

Ala Kapu (" highest See also:gate, See also:sublime See also:porte ") to the See also:Maidan-i-Shah, which is one of the most imposing piazzas in the See also:world, a parallelogram of 56o yds . (N.-S.) by 174 yds . (E.-W.) surrounded by See also:brick buildings divided into two storeys of recessed See also:arches, or arcades, one above the other . In front of these arcades grow a few stunted planes and poplars . On the south See also:side of the maidan is the famous Masjed i Shah (the shah's See also:mosque) erected by Shah Abbas I. in 1612-1613 . It is covered with glazed tiles of great brilliancy and richly decorated with See also:gold and See also:silver ornaments and cost over £175,000 . It is in good repair, and plans of it were published by C . Texier (L'Armenie, la Perse, &c., vol. i. pls . 70-72) and P . Coste (Monuments de la Perse) . On the eastern side of the maidan stands the Masjed i Lutf Ullah with beautiful enamelled tiles and in good repair .

Opposite to it on 'the western side of the maidan is the Ala Kapu, a lofty See also:

building in the See also:form of an archway overlooking the maidan and crowned in the fore part by an immense open See also:throne-See also:room supported by wooden columns, while the hinder part is elevated three storeys higher . On the north side of the maidan is the entrance gate to the See also:main See also:bazaar surmounted by the Nekkareh-Khaneh, or drumhouse, where is blared forth the appalling See also:music saluting the rising and setting See also:sun, said to have been instituted by Jamshid many thousand years ago . West of the Chehel Sitars palace and conducting N.-S. from the centre of the city to the great See also:bridge of See also:Allah See also:Verdi Khan is the great See also:avenue nearly a mile in length called Chahar Bagh, " the four gardens," recalling the fact that it was originally occupied by four vineyards which Shah Abbas I. rented at £360 a See also:year and converted into a splendid approach to his capital . It was thus described by See also:Lord Curzon of Kedleston in 1880: " Of all the See also:sights of Isfahan, this in its present See also:state is the most pathetic in the utter and pitiless decay of its beauty . Let me indicate what it was and what it is . At the upper extremity a two-storeyed See also:pavilion,' connected by a See also:corridor with the Seraglio of the palace, so as to enable the ladies of the See also:harem to gaze unobserved upon the merry See also:scene below, looked out upon the centre of the avenue . Water, conducted in stone channels, ran down the centre, falling in See also:miniature cascades from See also:terrace to terrace, and was occasionally collected in great square or octagonal basins where cross roads cut the avenue . On either side of the central channel was a See also:row of See also:oriental planes and a paved pathway for pedestrians . Then occurred a See also:succession of open parterres, usually planted or sown . Next on either side was a second row of planes, between which and the flanking walls was a raised See also:causeway for horsemen . The See also:total breadth is now fifty-twn yards . At intervals corresponding with the successive terraces and basins, arched doorways with recessed open See also:chambers overhead conducted through these walls into the various royal or See also:noble gardens that stretched on either side, and were known as the Gardens of the Throne, of the See also:Nightingale, of Vines, of Mulberries, Dervishes, &c .

Phoenix-squares

Some of these pavilions were places of public resort and were used as See also:

coffee-houses, where when the business of the See also:day was over, the good burghers of Isfahan assembled to sip that beverage and inhale their kalians the while; as Fryer puts it: ' See also:Night See also:drawing on, all the See also:pride of Spahaun was met in the Chaurbaug and the Grandees were Airing themselves, prancing about with their numerous Trains, striving to outvie each other in Pomp and Generosity.' At the bottom, quays lined the See also:banks of the river, and were bordered with the mansions of the See also:nobility." Such was the Chahar Bagh in the plenitude of its fame . But now what a tragical contrast ! The channels are empty, their stone See also:borders crumbled and shattered, the'terraces are broken down, the parterres are unsightly See also:bare patches, the trees, all lopped and pollarded, have been chipped and hollowed out or cut down for See also:fuel by the soldiery of the Zil, the side pavilions are abandoned and tumbling to pieces and the gardens are wildernesses . Two centuries of decay could never make the Champs Elysees in See also:Paris, the Unter 2 This pavilion was the Persian See also:telegraph See also:office of Isfahan for nearly forty years and was demolished in 1903 . den See also:Linden in See also:Berlin, or Rotten Row in See also:London, look one half as miserable as does the ruined avenue of Shah Abbas . It is in itself an See also:epitome of See also:modern See also:Iran." Towards the upper end of the avenue on its eastern side stands the medresseh (See also:college) which Shah Hosain built in 1710 . It still has a few students, but is very much out of repair; Lord Curzon spoke of it in 1888 as " one of the stateliest ruins that he saw in Persia." South of this college the avenue is altogether without trees, and the gardens on both sides have been turned into barley See also:fields . Among the other notable buildings of Isfahan must be reckoned its five bridges, all fine structures, and one of them, the bridge of Allah Verdi See also:Kahn, 388 yds. in length with a paved roadway of 30 ft. in breadth, is one of the stateliest bridges in the world, and has suffered little by the See also:march of decay . Another striking feature of Isfahan is the See also:line of covered bazaars, which extends for nearly 3 m. and divides the city from south to north . The confluence of See also:people in these bazaars is certainly very great, and gives an exaggerated See also:idea of the populousness of the city, the truth being that while the in-habitants congregate for business in the bazaars, the See also:rest of the city is comparatively deserted . When surveyed from a commanding height within the city, or in the immediate environs, the enormous extent of mingled garden and building, about 30 M. in See also:circuit, gives an impression of populousness and busy life, but a closer See also:scrutiny reveals that the whole scene is nothing more than a gigantic sham . With the exception of the bazaars and a few parishes there is really no continuous inhabited See also:area .

Whole streets, whole quarters of the city have fallen into utter ruin and are absolutely deserted, and the traveller who is See also:

bent on visiting some of the remarkable sites in the See also:northern part of the city or in the western suburbs, such as the minarets dating from the 12th century, the remains of the famous See also:castle of Tabarrak built by the Buyid Rukn addaula (d . 976), the ruins of the old See also:fire See also:temple, the shaking minarets of Guladan, &c., has to pass through See also:miles of crumbling mud walls and roofless houses . It is believed indeed that not a twentieth part of the area of the old city is at present peopled, and the million or 600,000 inhabitants of See also:Chardin's See also:time (See also:middle of the 17th century) have now dwindled to about 85,000 . The Armenian suburb of Julfa, at any See also:rate, which contained a population of 30,000 souls in the 17th century, has now only 4000, and the See also:Christian churches, which numbered thirteen and were maintained with splendour, are now reduced to half a dozen edifices with bare walls and empty benches . Much improvement has recently taken See also:place in the See also:education of the See also:young and also in their religious teaching, the wealthy Armenians of See also:India and See also:Java having liberally contributed to the See also:national See also:schools, and the See also:Church Missionary Society of London having a church, schools and hospitals there since 1869 . The people of Isfahan have a very poor reputation in Persia either for courage or morals . They are regarded as a See also:clever but at the same time dissolute and disorderly community, whose See also:government requires a strong See also:hand . The lutis (hooligans) of Isfahan are proverbial as the most turbulent and rowdy set of vagabonds in Persia . The priesthood of Isfahan are much respected for their learning and high See also:character, and the merchants are a very respectable class . The See also:commerce of Isfahan has greatly fallen off from its former flourishing condition, and it is doubtful whether the See also:trade of former days can ever be restored . (A . H.-S.) History.—The natural advantages of Isfahan—a genial See also:climate, a fertile See also:soil and abundance of water for irrigation—must have always made it a place of importance .

In the most See also:

ancient See also:cuneiform documents, referring to a See also:period between 3000 and 2000 B.C., the province of Anshan, which certainly included Isfahan, was the limit of the See also:geographical knowledge of the Babylonians, typifying the extreme See also:east, as See also:Syria (or Martu-ki) typified the west . The two provinces of Anshan and Subarta, by which we must understand the country from Isfahan to Shuster, were ruled in those remote ages by the same See also:king, who undoubtedly belonged to the great Turanian See also:family; and from this first See also:notice of Anshan down to the 7th century B.C. the reg;on seems to have remained, more or less, dependent on the See also:paramount See also:power of See also:Susa . With regard to the eastern frontier of Anshan, however, ethnic changes were probably in extensive operation during this See also:interval of twenty centuries . The western Iranians,for instance, after separating from their eastern brethren on the See also:Oxus, as early perhaps as 3000 B.C., must have followed the line of the See also:Elburz mountains, and then bifurcating into two branches must have scattered, westward into See also:Media and southward towards Persia . The first substantial See also:settlement of the southern See also:branch would seem then to have been at Isfahan, where See also:Jan, the eponym of the Persian See also:race, is said to have founded a famous castle, the remains of which were visible as See also:late as the loth century A.D . This castle is known in the Zorcastrian writings as Jem-gird, but its proper name was Sara or Sabak (given in the Bundahish as Sruwa or Srobak), and it was especially famous in early See also:Mahommedan history as the building where the ancient records and tables of the Persians were discovered which proved of so much use to See also:Albumazar and his See also:con-temporaries . A valuable tradition, proceeding from quite a different source, has also been preserved to the effect that Jem, who invented the See also:original Persian character, " dwelt in Assan, a district of Shuster " (see See also:Flugel's Fihrist, p . 12, 1 . 21), which exactly accords with the See also:Assyrian notices of Assan or Anshan classed as a dependency of Elymais . Now, it is well known that native See also:legend represented the Persian race to have been held in bondage for a thousand years, after the reign of Jem, by the See also:foreign usurper Zohak or Biverasp, a period which may well represent the duration of Elymaean supremacy over the See also:Aryans of Anshan . At the commencement of the 7th century B.C . Persia and Ansan are still found in the See also:annals of See also:Sennacherib amongst the tributaries of Elymais, confederated against See also:Assyria; but shortly afterwards the great Susian See also:monarchy, which had lasted for full 2000 years, crumbled away under continued pressure from the west, and the Aryans of Anshan recovered their See also:independence, See also:founding for the first time a national dynasty, and establishing their seat of government at Gabae on the site of the modern city of Isfahan .

The royal city of Gabae was known as a See also:

foundation of the Achaemenidae as late as the time of See also:Strabo, and the See also:inscriptions show that See also:Achaemenes and his successors did actually See also:rule at Anshan until the great See also:Cyrus set out on his career of western victory . Whether the Kabi or Kavi of tradition, the blacksmith of Isfahan, who is said to have headed the revolt against Zohak, took his name from the town of Gabae may be open to question; but it is at any rate remarkable that the national See also:standard of the Persian race, named after the blacksmith, and supposed to have been first unfurled at this See also:epoch, retained the See also:title of Darafsh-a Kavani (the banner of Kavi) to the time of the Arab See also:conquest, and that the men of Isfahan were, moreover, throughout this See also:long period, always especially charged with its See also:protection . The -provincial name of Anshan or Assan seems to have been disused in the country after the See also:age of Cyrus, and to have been replaced by that, of Gabene or Gabiane, which alone appears in the See also:Greek accounts of the See also:wars of See also:Alexander and his successors, and in the geographical descriptions of Strabo . Gabae or Gavi became gradually corrupted to Jai during the See also:Sassanian period, and it was thus by the latter name that the old city of Isfahan was generally known at the time of the Arab invasion . Subsequently the title of Jai became replaced by Sheheristan or Medineh, " the city " See also:par excellence, while a suburb which had been founded in the immediate vicinity, and which took the name of Yahudieh, or the " Jews' town," from its original Jewish inhabitants, gradually See also:rose into notice and superseded the old capital.' Sheheristatt and Yahudieh are thus in the early ages of See also:Islam described as See also:independent cities, the former being the eastern and the latter the western See also:division of the capital, each surrounded by a See also:separate See also:wall; but about the middle of the loth century the famous Buyid king, known as the Rukn-addaula (al-Dowleh), See also:united the two suburbs and many of the adjoining villages in one_ See also:general enclosure which was about ro m. in circumference . The city, which had now resumed its old name of Isfahan, continued to flourish till the time of Timur (A.D . 1387), when in See also:common with so many other cities of the See also:empire it suffered grievously at the hands of the Tatar invaders . Timur indeed is said to have erected a Kelleh Minar or "See also:skull See also:tower " of 70,000 heads at the gate of the city, as a warning to deter other communities from resisting his arms . The place, however, owing to its natural advantages, gradually recovered from the effects of this terrible visitation, and when the Safavid dynasty, who succeeded to power in the 16th century, transferred their place of residence to it from See also:Kazvin, it rose rapidly in populousness and See also:wealth . It was under Shah Abbas the first, the most illustrious sovereign of this house, that Isfahan attained its greatest prosperity . This monarch adopted every possible expedient, by stimulating ' The name of Yahudieh or " Jews' town " is derived by the early Arab geographers from a colony of Jews who are said to have migrated from Babylonia to Isfahan shortly after See also:Nebuchadrezzar's conquest of See also:Jerusalem, but this is pure See also:fable . The Jewish settlement really See also:dates from the 3rd century A.D. as is shown by a notice in the Armenian history of See also:Moses of Chorene, See also:lib. iii. cap .

35 . The name Isfahan has been generally compared with the Aspadana of See also:

Ptolemy in the extreme north of See also:Persis, and the See also:identification is probably correct . At any rate the title is of great antiquity being found in the Bundahish, and being derived in all likelihood from the family name of the race of Feridan, the See also:Ath'iyan of See also:romance, who were entitled Aspiyan in Pahlavi, according to the phonetic rules of that See also:language . commerce, encouraging arts and manufactures, and introducing luxurious habits, to attract visitors to his favourite capital . He built several magnificent palaces in the richest See also:style of Oriental decoration, planted gardens and avenues, and distributed amongst them the waters of the Zendeh-rud in an endless See also:series of reservoirs, fountains and cascades . The baths, the mosques, the colleges, the bazaars and the caravanserais of the city received an equal See also:share of his See also:attention, and European artificers and merchants were largely encouraged to See also:settle in his capital . Ambassadors visited his See also:court from many of the first states of See also:Europe, and factories were permanently established for the merchants of See also:England, See also:France, See also:Holland, the Hanseatic towns, See also:Spain, See also:Portugal and See also:Moscow . The celebrated traveller Chardin, who passed a great portion of his life at Isfahan in the latter half of the 17th century, has left a detailed and most interesting See also:account of the See also:statistics of the city at that period . He himself estimated the population at 600,000, though in popular belief the number exceeded a million . There were 1500 flourishing villages in the immediate neighbourhood; the See also:enceinte of the city and suburbs was reckoned at 24 m., while the niud walls surrounding the city itself, probably nearly following the lines of the Buyid en-See also:closure, measured 20,000 paces . In the interior were counted 162 mosques, 48 public colleges, 1802 caravanserais, 273 baths and 12 cemeteries . The adjoining suburb of Julfa was also a most flourishing place .

Originally founded by Shah Abbas the Great, who trans-ported to this locality 3400 Armenian families from the town of Julfa on the See also:

Arras, the colony increased rapidly under his fostering care, both in wealth and in See also:numbers, the Christian population being estimated in 1685 at 30,000 souls . The first See also:blow to the prosperity of modern Isfahan was given by the Afghan invasion at the beginning of the 18th century, since which date, although continuing for some time to be the nominal See also:head of the empire, the city has gradually dwindled in importance, and now only ranks as a second or third rate provincial capital . When the Kajar dynasty indeed mounted the throne of Persia at the end of the 18th century the seat of government was at once transferred to Teheran, with a view to the support of the royal tribe, whose See also:chief seat was in the neighbouring province of Mazenderan; and, although it has often been proposed, from considerations of state policy in reference to See also:Russia, to re-establish the court at Isfahan, which is the true centre of Persia, the See also:scheme has never commanded much attention . At the same time the government of Isfahan, owing to the wealth of the surrounding districts, has always been much sougkt after . Early in the 19th century the See also:post was often conferred upon some powerful See also:minister of the court, but in later times it has been usually the apanage of a favourite son or See also:brother of the reigning sovereign.' Fath Ali Shah, who had a particular See also:affection for Isfahan, died here in 1834, and it became a time-honoured See also:custom for the monarch on the throne to seek See also:relief from the See also:heat of Teheran by forming a summer See also:camp at the See also:rich pastures of Ganduman, on the skirts of Zardeh-Kuh, to the west of Isfahan, for the exercise of his troops and the See also:health and amusement of his courtiers, but in See also:recent years the practice has been discontinued . (H . C .

End of Article: ISFAHAN (older form Ispahan)
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