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JOPVA

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Originally appearing in Volume V20, Page 625 of the 1911 Encyclopedia Britannica.
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JOPVA  Y h~ilika rnm el-H ACn13 Om r-Ra as Di See also:

ban.01000 h ,.sr-aa ,nand rE~7 1 -- ,";k p W 5 b I'I'r/M Tell el M 3- e1 li I4 .Jer fIna .. ~, . AA E (.•See also:Arad ARpE ,JCbalasab A343o ninoeo~°,a BLong . E . 35 of GreenwVth~` El b D Re rAbil El-Kul rang cs-SA GATn' by the See also:officers of the See also:Palestine Exploration Fund . A See also:good See also:deal of See also:work has been done by individual travellers, but the material for a full description of its See also:physical See also:character is as yet lacking . Two See also:great See also:rivers, the Yarmuk (Hieromax) and the Zerka (Jbbok), See also:divide Eastern Palestine into three sections, namely Hauran (See also:BASHAN, q.v.) with the Jaulan See also:west of it; See also:Jebel Ajlun (See also:GILEAD, q.v.); and the Belk'a (the See also:southern portion of Gilead and the See also:ancient territory of the tribe of See also:Reuben) . The latter extends southward to the Mojib, which, as we have already seen, is the southern boundary of Eastern Palestine . It is a See also:matter of dispute whether Hauran should be included within Palestine proper, accepting its See also:definition as the " ancient See also:Hebrew territory." It is a large volcanic region, entirely covered with See also:lava and other igneous rocks . Two remarkable rows of these run in lines from See also:north to See also:south, through the region of the Jaulan parallel to the See also:Ghor, and from a See also:long distance are conspicuous features in the landscape . The See also:soil is fertile, and there are many remains of ancient See also:wealth and See also:civilization scattered over its See also:surface . South of the Yarmuk the formation is Cretaceous, Hauran See also:basalt being found only in the eastern portion .

That region is much more mountainous than Hauran . South of the Zerka the See also:

country culminates in Jebel 'See also:Ostia, a See also:peak of Jebel Jil'ad (" the See also:mountain of Gilead "), 3596 ft. high . From this point southward the country assumes the See also:appearance which is See also:familiar to those who have visited See also:Jerusalem—an elevated See also:plateau, bounded on the west by the precipitous cliffs known as the mountains of See also:Moab, with but a few peaks, such as Jebel Shihan (2781 ft.) and Jebel Neba (See also:Nebo, 2643 ft.), conspicuous above the level of the See also:ridge by See also:reason of See also:superior height . See also:Geology.—The See also:oldest rocks consist of See also:gneiss and schist, penetrated by dikes and bosses of See also:granite, See also:syenite, See also:porphyry and other intrusive rocks . All of these are pre-Carboniferous in See also:age and most of them probably belong to the Archean See also:period . They are generally concealed by later deposits, but are exposed to view along the eastern margin of the See also:Wadi Araba, at the See also:foot of the plateau of See also:Edom . Similar rocks occur also at one or two places in the See also:desert of et-Tih, while towards the south they attain a greater See also:extension, forming nearly the whole of See also:Sinai and of the hills on the See also:east See also:side of the Gulf of See also:Akaba . These ancient rocks, which See also:form the See also:foundation of the country, are overlaid unconformably by a See also:series of conglomerates and sandstones, generally unfossiliferous and often red or See also:purple in See also:colour, very similar in character to the Nubian See also:sandstone of Upper See also:Egypt . In the midst of this series there is an inconstant See also:band of fossiliferous See also:limestone, which has been found in the Wadi Nasb and at other places on the southern border of et-Tih, and also along the western escarpment of the Edom plateau . The fossils include Syringopora, Zaphrentis, Productus, Spirifer, &c., and belong to the Carboniferous . The sandstone which lies below the limestone is also, no doubt, of Carboniferous age; but the sandstone above is conformably over-laid by Upper Cretaceous beds and is generally referred to the See also:Lower Cretaceous . No unconformity, however, has yet been detected anywhere in the sandstone series, and in the See also:absence of fossils the upper sandstone may represent any period from the Carboniferous to the Cretaceous .

The Upper Cretaceous is represented by limestones with bands of chert, and contains See also:

Ammonites, Baculites, Hippurites and other fossils . It covers by far the greater See also:part of Palestine, capping the table-lands of Moab and Edom, and forming most of the high See also:land between the See also:Jordan and the Mediterranean . It is overlaid towards the west by similar limestones, which contain nummulites and belong to the See also:Eocene period; and these are followed near the See also:coast by the calcareous sandstone of Philistia, which is referred by See also:Hull to the Upper Eocene . Lava flows of basic character, belonging to the See also:Tertiary period, See also:cover extensive areas in Jaulan and Hauran; and smaller patches occur in the land of Moab and also west of the Jordan, especially near the See also:Sea of Gennesareth . Of See also:Recent deposits the most interesting are the raised beaches near the coast and the terraces of the Jordan-Araba depression . The latter indicate that at one period nearly the whole of this depression was filled with See also:water up to a level somewhat above that of the Mediterranean . The See also:geological structure of the country is very See also:simple in its broad features, but of exceptional See also:interest . In See also:general the stratified deposits See also:lie nearly See also:flat and in See also:regular conformable See also:succession, the lowest resting upon the See also:floor of ancient crystalline rocks . There is, however, a slight See also:dip towards the west, so that the newest deposits lie near the coast . Moreover, along the eastern side of the Jordan-Araba valley there is a great See also:fault, and on the eastern side of this fault the whole series of rocks stands at a much higher level than on the west . Consequently, west of the Jordan almost the whole country is formed of the newer beds (Upper Cretaceous and later), while east of the Jordan the older rocks, sometimes down to the Archean floor, are exposed at the foot of the plateau . The western margin of the valley is possibly defined by another fault which has not yet been detected; but in any See also:case it is clear that the great depression owes its extraordinary See also:depth to faulting .

A See also:

line of depressions of similar character has been traced by E . See also:Suess as far south as See also:Lake See also:Nyasa.' ' See Lortet, La Mer Morte (See also:Paris, 1877) ; E . Hull, See also:Mount Seir, Sinai and Western Palestine (See also:London, 1885) ; and Memoir on the See also:Climate.—Palestine belongs to the sub-tropical See also:zone: at the summer See also:solstice the See also:sun is ten degrees south of the See also:zenith . The length of the See also:day ranges from ten to fourteen See also:hours . The great variety of See also:altitude and of surface characteristics gives rise to a considerable number of See also:local See also:climatic peculiarities . On the maritime-See also:plain the mean See also:annual temperature is 70° F., the normal extremes being about 500 to about 90° . The See also:harvest ripens about a fortnight earlier than among the mountains . Citrons and oranges flourish, as do melons and palms: the latter do not See also:fruit abundantly, but this is less the fault of climate than of carelessness in fertilization . The rainfall is rather lower than among the mountains . In the mountainous regions the mean annual temperature is about 62°, but there is a great range of variation . In See also:winter there are often several degrees of See also:frost, though See also:snow very rarely lies for more than a day or two . In summer the thermometer occasionally registers as much as oo° in the shade, or even a degree or two more: this however is exceptional, and 80°-90° is a more normal maximum for the See also:year .

The rainfall is about 28 in., sometimes less, and in exceptional years as much as to in. in excess of this figure has been registered . The See also:

vine, fig and See also:olive grow well in this region . The climate of the Ghor, again, is different . Here the thermometer may rise as high as 130° . The rainfall is scanty, but as no civilized See also:person inhabits the southern end of the Jordan valley throughout the year, and it has hitherto proved impossible to establish self-registering See also:instruments, no systematic meteorological observations have been taken . In Eastern Palestine there is even a greater range of temperature; the loftier heights are covered in winter with snow . The thermometer may range within twenty-four hours from freezing-point to 80° . The See also:rainy See also:season begins about the end of See also:November, usually with a heavy thunderstorm: the See also:rain at this part of the year is the " former rain " of the Old Testament . The See also:earth, baked hard by the summer See also:heat, is thus softened, and ploughing begins at once . The wettest See also:month, as indicated by meteorological observation, is See also:January; See also:February is second to it, and See also:December third; See also:March is also a very wet month . In See also:April the rains come to an end (the " latter rains ") and the winter crops receive their final fertilization . The winter crops (See also:barley and See also:wheat) are harvested from April to See also:June .

The summer crops (See also:

millet, See also:sesame, See also:figs, melons, grapes, See also:olives, &c.) are fertilized by the heavy " dews " which are one of the most remarkable climatic features of the country and to a large extent atone for the See also:total lack of rain for one See also:half the year . These crops are harvested from See also:August to See also:October . Water See also:Supply.—Notwithstanding the long drought, it must not be supposed that Palestine is a waterless country, except in certain districts . There are very few spots from which a See also:spring of some sort is not accessible . Perennial streams are, and in the recent geological ages always have been, rare in the country . The whole See also:face of the land is pitted with ancient cisterns; indeed, many hillsides and See also:fields are on that See also:account most dangerous to walk over by See also:night, except for those who are thoroughly familiar with the landmarks . These cisterns are See also:bell-shaped or See also:bottle-shaped excavations, with a narrow circular See also:shaft in the See also:top, hollowed in the See also:rock and lined with See also:cement . Besides these, more ambitious See also:works are to be found, all now more or less ruined, in various parts of the country (see AQUEDUCTS: Ancient) . Such are the aqueducts, of which remains exist at See also:Jericho, Caesarea and other places east and west of the Jordan; but especially must be mentioned the enormous reservoirs known as See also:Solomon's Pools, in a valley between Jerusalem and See also:Hebron, by which the former See also:city was supplied with water through an elaborate See also:system of conduits . Many of these aqueducts, as well as countless See also:numbers of now leaky cisterns, could with but little trouble be brought into use again, and would greatly enhance the fertility of the country . The most abundant springs in Palestine are the See also:sources of the Jordan at Banias and at Tell el-Kadi . A considerable number of springs in the country are brackish, bein impregnated with chemicals of various kinds or (when near a See also:town with sewage .

The latter is the case of the Virgin's See also:

Fountain (See also:Ain Umm ed-Daraj), which is the only natural source of water in the neighbourhood of Jerusalem . Hot springs are found in various parts of the country, especially at El-Hamma, about 1 m. south of See also:Tiberias, where the water has a temperature of 140° F . This is still used for curative purposes, as it was in the days of See also:Herod, but it is neglected and dirty . The spring of the Zerka Ma'in (Calirrhoe) has a temperature of 142° F . There are also hot See also:sulphur springs on the west side of the Dead Sea . Those of El-Hamma, below See also:Gadara, are from 104° to 120° F. in temperature . See also:Fauna.—It has been calculated that about 595 different See also:species of vertebrate animals are recorded or still to be found in Palestine—about 113 being mammals (including a few now See also:extinct), 348 birds (including 30 species See also:peculiar to the country), 91 See also:reptiles and 43 fishes . Of the invertebrata the number is unknown, but it must be enormous . The most important domestic animals are the See also:sheep and the See also:goat; the breed of oxen is small and poor . The See also:camel, the See also:horse and the donkey are the See also:draught animals; the flesh of the first Geology and See also:Geography of See also:Arabia Petraea, Palestine and adjoining Districts (London, 1886) . is eaten by the poorer classes, as is also occasionally that of the second . The See also:dogs, which prowl in large numbers See also:round the streets of towns and villages, are scarcely domesticated; much the same is true of the See also:cats .

See also:

Wild cats, cheetahs and leopards are found, but they are now rare, especially the latter . The See also:lion, which inhabited the country in the See also:time of the See also:Hebrews, is now extinct . The most important wild animals are the See also:hyena, See also:wolf (now comparatively rare), See also:fox and See also:jackal . Bats, various species of rodents, and gazelles are very See also:common, as is the See also:ibex in the valleys of the Dead Sea . Among the most characteristic birds may be mentioned eagles, vultures, owls, partridges, See also:bee-eaters and hoopoes; singing birds are on the whole uncommon._ See also:Snakes—many of them venomous—are numerous, and there are many varieties of lizards . The See also:crocodile is seen (but now very rarely) in the Nahr ez-Zerka . Scorpions and large See also:spiders are a universal pest . See also:Flora.—The flora of Palestine has a considerable range and variety, owing to the variation in local climatic conditions . In the Jordan valley the vegetation has a semi-tropical character, consonant with the great heat, which here is normal . The coast-plain has another type, i.e. the See also:ordinary vegetation of the Mediterranean littoral . In the mountains the flora is, naturally, scantier than in these two more favoured regions, but even here there is a See also:rich variety . In all parts of the country the contrast between the landscape in See also:early spring and later, when the cessation of rains and the increase of heat has burnt up the vegetation, is very remarkable .

See also:

Population.—The inhabitants of Palestine are composed of a large number of elements, differing widely in ethnological See also:affinities, See also:language and See also:religion . It may be interesting to mention, as an See also:illustration of their heterogeneousness, that early in the 20th See also:century a See also:list of no less than fifty See also:languages, spoken in Jerusalem as vernaculars, was there See also:drawn up by a party of men whose various See also:official positions enabled them to possess accurate See also:information on the subject .l It is therefore no easy task to write concisely and at the same time with sufficient fullness on the See also:ethnology of Palestine . There are two classes into which the population of Palestine can be divided—the nomadic and the sedentary . The former is especially characteristic of Eastern Palestine, though Western Palestine also contains its full See also:share . The pure Arab origin of the See also:Bedouins is recognized in common conversation in the country, the word " Arab " being almost restricted to denote these wanderers, and seldom applied to the dwellers in towns and villages . It should be mentioned that there is another, entirely See also:independent, See also:nomad See also:race, the despised Nowar, who correspond to the See also:gipsies or tinkers of See also:European countries . These See also:people live under the poorest conditions, by doing See also:smith's work; they speak among themselves a Romani See also:dialect, much contaminated with Arabic in its vocabulary . The sedentary population of the country villages—the fellahin, or agriculturists—is, on the whole, comparatively unmixed; but traces of various intrusive strains assert themselves . It is by no means unreasonable to suppose that there is a fundamental Canaanite See also:element in this population: the " hewers of See also:wood and drawers of water " often remain undisturbed through successive occupations of a land; and there is a remark-able See also:correspondence of type between many of the See also:modern fellahin and skeletons of ancient inhabitants which have been recovered in the course of excavation . New elements no doubt came in under the See also:Assyrian, See also:Persian and See also:Roman dominations, and in more recent times there has been much contamination . The spread of See also:Islam introduced a very considerable Neo-Arabian infusion . Those from southern Arabia were known as the Yaman tribe, those from See also:northern Arabia the Kais (Qais) .

These two divisions absorbed the previous See also:

peasant population, and still nominally exist; down to the See also:middle of the loth century they were a fruitful source of quarrels and of bloodshed . The two great clans were further subdivided into families, but these See also:minor divisions are also being gradually broken down . In the loth century the See also:short-lived See also:Egyptian See also:government introduced into the population an element from that country which still persists in the villages . These newcomers have not been completely assimilated with the villagers among whom they 1 This list was intentionally made as exhaustive as possible, and included some languages (such as Welsh) spoken by one or two individual residents only . But even if, by omitting these accidental items, the list be reduced to See also:thirty, a sufficient number will be See also:left to indicate the See also:cosmopolitan character of the city.have found a See also:home; the latter despise them, and discourage intermarriage . Some of the larger villages—notably See also:Bethlehem—which have always been leavened by See also:Christianity, and with the development of See also:industry have become comparatively prosperous, show tangible results of these happier circumstances in a higher See also:standard of physique among the men and of See also:personal appearance among the See also:women . It is not uncommon in popular writings to attribute this superiority to a crusader See also:strain—a theory which no one can possibly countenance who knows what miserable degenerates the half-breed descendants of the crusaders rapidly became, as a result of their immoral See also:life and their See also:ignorance of the sanitary precautions necessary in a trying climate . The population of the larger towns is of a much more complex nature . In each there is primarily a large Arab element, consisting for the greater part of members of important and wealthy families . Thus, in Jerusalem, much of the local See also:influence is in the hands of the families of El-Khalidi, El-Husseini and one or two others, who derive their descent from the heroes of the early days of Islam . The See also:Turkish element is small, consisting exclusively of officials sent individually from See also:Constantinople . There are very large contingents from the Mediterranean countries, especially See also:Armenia, See also:Greece and See also:Italy, principally engaged in See also:trade .

The extraordinary development of Jewish colonization has since 1870 effected a revolution in the See also:

balance of population in some parts of the country, notably in Jerusalem . There are few residents in the country from the more eastern parts of See also:Asia —di we except the See also:Turkoman settlements in the Jaulan, a number of Persians, and a fairly large Afghan See also:colony that since 1905 has established itself in Jaffa . The Mutawileh (Motawila), who form the See also:majority of the inhabitants of the villages north-west of See also:Galilee, are probably long-settled immigrants from See also:Persia . Some tribes of Kurds live in tents and huts near Lake Huleh . If the inmates of the See also:count-less monastic establishments be excluded, comparatively few from northern or western See also:Europe will remain: the See also:German " Templar " colonies being perhaps the most important . There must also be mentioned a Bosnian colony established at Caesarea Palestina, and the Circassian settlements placed in certain centres of Eastern Palestine by the Turkish government in See also:order to keep a See also:restraint on the Bedouin: the latter are also found in Galilee . There was formerly a large Sudanese and Algerian element in the population of some of the large towns, but these have been much reduced in numbers since the beginning of the loth century: the Algerians however still maintain themselves in parts of Galilee . The most interesting of all the non-Arab communities in the country, however, is without doubt the Samaritan See also:sect in Nablus (See also:Shechem); a gradually disappearing See also:body, which has maintained an independent existence from the time when they were first settled by the Assyrians to occupy the land left See also:waste by the captivity of the See also:kingdom of See also:Israel . The total population of the country is roughly estimated at 650,000, but no See also:authentic official See also:census exists from which satisfactory information on this point is obtainable . Some two-thirds of this number are Moslems, the See also:rest Christians of various sects, and See also:Jews . The largest town in Palestine is Jerusalem, estimated to contain a population of about 6o,000 . The other towns of above Io,000 inhabitants are Jaffa (45,000), See also:Gaza (35,000), Safed (30,000), Nablus (25,000), See also:Kerak (20,000), Hebron (18,500), Es-See also:Salt (15,000), See also:Acre (i1,000), See also:Nazareth (I I,oco) .

The above remarks apply to the permanent population . They would be incomplete without a passing word on the non-permanent elements which at certain seasons of the year are in the See also:

principal centres the most conspicuous . Especially in winter and early spring crowds of European and See also:American tourists, See also:Russian pilgrims and Bokharan devotees jostle one another in the streets in picturesque incongruity . See also:Political Divisions.—Under the See also:Ottoman See also:jurisdiction Palestine has no independent existence . West of the Jordan, and to about half-way between Nablus and Jerusalem, is the southern portion of the vilayet or See also:province of See also:Beirut . South of this point is the sanjak' of Jerusalem, to which Nazareth with its immediate neighbourhood is added, so as to bring all the principal " See also:Holy Places " under one jurisdiction . East of the Jordan the country forms part of the large vilayet of See also:Syria, whose centre is at See also:Damascus . Communications.—Until 1892 communication through the country was entirely by See also:caravan, and this See also:primitive method is still followed over the greater part of its See also:area . On the 26th of See also:September of that year a railway between Jaffa and Jerusalem, with five intermediate stations, was opened, and has much facilitated transit between the coast and the mountains of See also:Judaea . A railway from See also:Haifa to Damascus was opened in 1905; it runs across the Plain of Esdraelon, enters the Ghor at Beisan, then, turning northwards, impinges on the Sea of Galilee at Samakh, and runs up the valley of the Yarmuk to join, at ed-Der'a, the line of the third railway . This was undertaken in 1901 to connect Damascus with See also:Mecca; in 1906 it was finished as far as Ma'an, and in 1908 the See also:section to See also:Medina was completed . See also:Carriage-roads also began to be constructed during the last See also:decade of the 19th century .

They are on the whole carelessly made and maintained, and are liable to go badly and more or less permanently out of repair in heavy rain . Of completed roads the most important are from Jaffa to Haifa, Jaffa to Nablus, Jaffa to Jerusalem, Jaffa to Gaza; Jerusalem to Jericho, Jerusalem to Bethlehem with a See also:

branch to Hebron, Jerusalem to See also:Khan Labban —ultimately to be extended to Nablus; and Gaza to See also:Beersheba . Other roads have been begun in Galilee (e.g . Haifa to Tiberias and to Jenin); but in this respect the northern province is far behind the southern . For the rest there is a network of tracks, all practically impassable by wheeled vehicles, extending over the country and connecting the towns and villages one with another . See also:Industries.—There are no mines and few manufactures of importance in Palestine: the country is entirely agricultural . Although the processes are primitive and improvements are discouraged, both by the policy of the government and by an indolence and suspiciousness of innovation natural to the people themselves, See also:fine crops of cereals are yielded, especially in the large wheat-lands of Hauran . Besides wheat, the following crops are to a greater or less extent cultivated—barley, millet, sesame, See also:maize, beans, peas, lentils, kursenni (a species of See also:vetch used as camel-See also:food) and, in some parts of the country, See also:tobacco . The agriculturist has many enemies to contend with, the tax-gatherer being perhaps the most deadly; and drought, earthquakes, rats and locusts have at all periods been responsible for barren years . The fruit trade is very considerable . The value of the oranges exported from Jaffa in 1906 was £162,000; this amount increases annually, and of course in addition a considerable quantity is retained for home See also:consumption . Besides these are grown melons, mulberries, bananas, apricots, quinces, walnuts, lemons and citron .

The culture of the vine—formerly an important See also:

staple, as is proved by the countless ancient See also:wine-presses scattered over the rocky hillsides of the whole country—See also:fell to some extent into desuetude, no doubt owing to the Moslem See also:prohibition of wine-drinking . It is, however, rapidly returning to favour, principally under Jewish auspices, and numerous vineyards now exist at different centres . All over the country are olive-trees, the fruit and oil of which are a staple product of the country; the trade is however hampered by an excessive tax on trees, which not only discourages See also:plantation, but has the unfortunate effect of encouraging destruction . Other fruit trees are abundant, though less so than those we have mentioned: such are pomegranates,