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See also:LEBANON (from Semitic laban, " to be See also: Anti-Lebanon is the barest and most inhospitable part of the See also:system . The See also:district west of Lebanon, averaging about 20 m. in breadth, slopes in an intricate See also:series of plateaus and terraces to the Mediterranean . The See also:coast is for the most part abrupt and rocky, often leaving See also:room for only a narrow path along the See also:shore, and when viewed from the sea it does not suggest the extent of See also:country lying between its cliffs and the lofty summits behind . Most of the mountain spurs run from See also:east to west, but in northern Lebanon the prevailing direction of the valleys is See also:north-See also:westerly, and in the south some ridges run parallel with the See also:principal chain . The valleys have for the most part been deeply excavated by mountain streams; the apparently inaccessible heights are crowned by numerous villages, castles or cloisters embosomed among trees . The See also:chief perennial streams, beginning from the north, are the Nahr Akkar, N . Arka, N. el-Barid, N . Kadisha, " the See also:holy river " (the valley of which begins in the immediate neighbourhood of the highest summits, and rapidly descends in a series of great bends till the river reaches the sea at See also:Tripoli), See also:Wadi el-Joz (falling into the sea at Batrun), Wadi Fidar, Nahr See also:Ibrahim (the See also:ancient See also:Adonis, having its source in a See also:recess of the great mountain See also:amphitheatre where the famous See also:sanctuary Apheca, the See also:modern Afka, See also:lay), Nahr el-Kelb (the ancient Lycus), Nahr See also:Beirut (the ancient Magoras, entering the sea at Beirut), Nahr Damur (ancient Tamyras), Nahr el-'Auwali (the ancient Bostrenus, which in the upper part of its course is joined by the Nahr el-Baruk) . The `Auwali and the Nahr el-Zaherani, the only other considerable streams before we reach the Litany, flow north-east to south-west, in consequence of the interposition of a See also:ridge subordinate and parallel to the central chain . On the north, where the mountain bears the See also:special name of Jebel Akkar, the main ridge of Lebanon rises gradually from the plain . A number of valleys run to the north and north-east, among them that of the Nahr el-Kebir, the Eleutherus of the ancients, which rises in the Jebel el-Abiad on the eastern slope of Lebanon, and afterwards, skirting the district, flows westward to the sea . South of Jebel el-Abiad, beneath the main ridge, which as a See also:rule falls away suddenly towards the east, occur several small elevated terraces having a southward slope; among these are the Wadi en-Nusur (" vale of eagles "), and the See also:basin of the See also:lake Yammuna, with its intermittent See also:spring Neb'a el-Arba'in . Of the streams which descend into the Buka`a, the Berdani rises in Jebel Sunnin, and enters the plain by a deep and picturesque mountain cleft at Zahleh . The most elevated summits occur in the north, but even these are of very See also:gentle gradient . The " See also:Cedar See also:block " consists of a See also:double See also:line of four and three summits respectively, ranged from north to south, with a deviation of about 35 ° . Those to the east are 'Uyun Urghush, Makmal, Muskiyya (or Naha' esh-Shemaila) and See also:Ras Zahr el-Kazib; fronting the sea are Kam Sauda or Timarun, Fumm el-Mizab and Zahr el-Kandil . The height of Zahr el-Kazib, by barometric measurement, is lo,o18 ft.; that of the others dces not reach io,000 ft . South from them is the pass (8351 ft.) which leads from See also:Baalbek to Tripoli; the great mountain amphitheatre on the west See also:side of its See also:summit is remarkable . Farther south is a second See also:group of lofty summits—the See also:snow-capped Sunnin. visible from Beirut; its height is 8482 ft . Between this group and the more southerly Jebel Keniseh (about 6700 ft.) lies the pass (4700 ft.) traversed by the See also:French See also:post road between Beirut and See also:Damascus . Among the bare summits still farther south are the See also:long ridge of Jebel el-Baruk (about 7000 ft.), the Jebel Niha, with the Tau'amat Niha (about 6100 ft.), near which is a pass to See also:Sidon, and the Jebel Rihan (about S400 ft.) . The Buka'a, the broad valley which separates Lebanon from Anti-Lebanon, is watered by two See also:rivers having their See also:watershed near Baalbek, at an See also:elevation of about 3600 ft., and separated only by a See also:short mile at their See also:sources . That flowing northwards, El-'Asi, is the ancient See also:Orontes (q.v.) ; the other is the Litany . In the See also:lower part of its course the latter has scooped out a deep and narrow rocky See also:bed; at Burghuz it is spanned by a great natural See also:bridge . Not. far from the point where it suddenly trends to the west he, immediately above the romantic valley, at an elevation of 1500 ft., the imposing ruins of the old See also:castle Kal'at esh-Shakif, near one of the passes to Sidon . In its lower part the Litany bears the name of Nahr el-Kasimiya . Neither the Orontes nor the Litany has any important affluent . The Buka'a used to be known as Coelesyria (See also:Strabo. xvi . 2, 21) ; but that word as employed by the ancients had a much more extensive application . At See also:present its full name is Buka'a el-'Aziz (the dear Buka'a), and its northern portion is known as Sahlet Ba'albek (the plain of Baalbek) . The valley is from 4 to 6 m. broad, with an undulating See also:surface . The Anti-Lebanon chain has been less fully explored than that of Lebanon . Apart from its southern offshoots it is 67 m. long, while its width varies from 16 to 132 m . It rises from the plain of Hasya-See also:Homs, and in its northern portion is very arid . The range has not so many offshoots as occur on the west side of Lebanon; under its precipitous slopes stretch table-lands and broad plateaus, which, especially on the east side looking towards the steppe, steadily increase in width . Along the western side of northern Anti-Lebanon stretches the Khasha'a, a rough red region lined with See also:juniper trees, a See also:succession of the hardest See also:limestone crests and ridges, bristling with bare See also:rock and See also:crag that shelter tufts of vegetation, and are divided by a succession of grassy ravines .
On the eastern side the parallel valley of 'Asal el-See also:
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Vegetation.—The western slope of Lebanon has the common characteristics of the See also:flora of the Mediterranean coast, but the Anti-Lebanon belongs to the poorer region of the See also:steppes, and the Mediterranean See also:species are met with only sporadically along the See also:water-courses
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See also:Forest and pasture land do not properly exist: the See also:place of the first is for the most part taken by a low brushwood; grass is not plentiful, and the higher ridges maintain alpine See also:plants only so long as patches of snow continue to See also:lie
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The rock walls See also:harbour some rock plants, but many absolutely barren wildernesses of See also:
In the upper Kadisha valley there is a cedar See also: The alpine flora of Lebanon thus connects itself directly with the Oriental flora of lower altitudes, and is unrelated to the glacial flora of See also:Europe and northern Asia . See also:Zoology.—There is nothing of special See also:interest about the See also:fauna of Lebanon . Bears are no longer numerous; the See also:panther and the See also:ounce are met with; the See also:wild hog, hyaena, See also:wolf and See also:fox are by no means rare; jackals and gazelles are very common . The See also:polecat and See also:hedgehog also occur . As a rule there are not many birds, but the See also:eagle and the See also:vulture may occasionally be seen; of eatable kinds partridges and wild pigeons are the most abundant . See also:Population.--In the following sections the Lebanon proper will alone be considered, without reference to Anti-Lebanon, because the peculiar See also:political status of the former range since 1364 has effectually differentiated it; whereas the Anti-Lebanon still forms an integral part of the See also:Ottoman See also:province of Syria (q.v.), and neither its population nor its See also:history is readily distinguishable from those of the surrounding districts . . The See also:total population in the Lebanon proper is about 400,000, and is increasing faster than the development of the province will admit . There is consequently much See also:emigration, the See also:Christian surplus going mainly to See also:Egypt, and to See also:America, the See also:Druses to the latter country and to the Hauran . The emigrants to America, however, usually return after making See also:money, build new houses and See also:settle down . The singularly complex population is composed of Christians, See also:Maronites, and Orthodox Eastern and Uniate; of Moslems, both Sunni and Shiah (Metawali); and of Druses . (a) Maronites (q.v.) form about three-fifths of the whole and have the north of the Mountain almost to themselves, while even in the south, the old Druse stronghold, they are now numerous . See also:Feudalism is practically See also:extinct among them and with the decline of the Druses, and the great stake they have acquired in See also:agriculture, they have laid aside much of their warlike See also:habit together with their arms .
Even their See also:instinct of See also:nationality is being sensibly impaired by their See also:gradual assimilation to the Papal See also: They are said to be descendants of See also:Persian tribes; but the fact is very doubtful, and they may be at least as aboriginal as the Maronites, and a remnant of an old Incarnationist population which did not accept See also:Christianity, and kept its heretical See also:Islam See also:free from those influences which modified Druse creed . They own a chief See also:sheikh, See also:resident at Jeba'a, and have the reputation, like most heretical communities in the Sunni part of the Moslem See also:world, of being exceedingly fanatical and inhospitable . It is undoubtedly the See also:case that they are suspicious of strangers and defiant of interference . Another small See also:body of See also:Shiites, the Ismailites (Assassins (q.v.) of the crusading See also:chronicles), also said to be of Persian origin, live about Kadmus at the extreme N. of Lebanon, but outside the limits of the privileged province . They are about 9000 strong . (f) Druses (q.v.), now barely an eighth of the whole and confined to Shuf and Metn in S . Lebanon, are tending to emigrate or conform to Sunni Islam . Since the See also:establishment of the privileged province they have lost the Ottoman support which used to compensate for their numerical inferiority as compared with the Christians; and they are fast losing also their old habits and distinctiveness . No longer armed or wearing their former singular See also:dress, the remnant of them in Lebanon seems likely ere long to be assimilated to the " Osmanli " Moslems . Their See also:feud with the Maronites, whose accentuation in the See also:middle of the 19th See also:century was largely due to the tergiversations of the ruling Shehab See also:family, now reduced to low See also:estate, is dying away, but they retain something of their old See also:clan feeling and feudal organization, especially in Shuf . The mixed population, as a whole, displays the usual characteristics of mountaineers, See also:fine physique and vigorous See also:independent spirit; but its ancient truculence has given way before strong government See also:action since the middle 19th century, and the great increase of agricultural pursuits, to which the purely See also:pastoral are now quite secondary . The culture of the mulberry and See also:silk, of See also:tobacco, of the See also:olive and See also:vine, of many kinds of fruits and cereals, has See also:expanded enormously, and the Lebanon is now probably the most productive region in See also:Asiatic See also:Turkey in proportion to its See also:area . It exports largely through Beirut and Saida, using. both the French railway which crosses S . Lebanon on its way to Damascus, and the excellent roads and See also:mule-paths made since 1883 . Lebanon has thick deposits of See also:lignite See also:coal, but of inferior quality owing to the presence of See also:iron See also:pyrites . The abundant iron is little worked . Manufactures are of small See also:account, the raw material going mostly to the coast ; but olive-oil is made, together with various wines, of which the most famous is the vino d'oro, a sweet liqueur-like beverage . This See also:wine is not exported in any quantity, as it will not See also:bear a voyage well and is not made to keep . See also:Bee-keeping is general, and there is an export of eggs to Egypt . History.—The inhabitants of Lebanon have at no time played a conspicuous part in history . There are remains of prehistoric occupation, but we do not even know what races dwelt there in the See also:historical See also:period of antiquity . Probably they belonged chiefly to the Aramaean group of nationalities; the See also:Bible mentions See also:Hivites (See also:Judges iii . 3) and Giblites (See also:Joshua xiii . 5); Lebanon was included within the ideal boundaries of the land of See also:Israel, and the whole region was well known to the See also:Hebrews, by whose poets its many excellences are often praised . How far the Phoenicians had any effective See also:control over it is unknown; the See also:absence of their monuments does not argue much real See also:jurisdiction . Nor apparently did the Greek Seleucid See also:kingdom have much to do with the Mountain . In the See also:Roman period the district of Phoenice extended to Lebanon . In the 2nd century, with the inland districts, it constituted a subdivision of the province of Syria, having Emesa (Homs)for its See also:capital . From the time of See also:Diocletian there was a Phoenice ad Libanum, with Emesa as capital, as well as a Phoenice Maritime of which See also:Tyre was the chief See also:city . Remains of the Roman period occur through-out Lebanon . By the 6th century it was evidently virtuallyindependent again; its Christianization had begun with the See also:immigration of Monothelite sectaries, flying from persecution in the See also:Antioch district and Orontes valley . At all times Lebanon has been a place of See also:refuge for unpopular See also:creeds . Large part of the mountaineers took up Monothelism and initiated the See also:national distinction of the Maronites, which begins to emerge in the history of the 7th century . The sectaries, after helping Justinian II. against the See also:caliph Abdalmalik, turned on the See also:emperor and his Orthodox See also:allies, and were named Mardaites (rebels) . Islam now began to penetrate S . Lebanon, chiefly by the immigration of various more or less heretical elements, Kurd, See also:Turkoman, Persian and especially Arab, the latter largely after the break-up of the kingdom of See also:Hira; and See also:early in the See also:firth century these coalesced into a nationality (see DRUSES) under the congenial influence of the Incarnationist creed brought from See also:Cairo by Ismael Darazi and other emissaries of the caliph Hakim and his See also:vizier Hamza . The subsequent history of Lebanon to the middle of the 19th century will be found under DRUSES and MARONITES, and it need only be stated here that Latin influence began to be See also:felt in N . Lebanon during the See also:Frank period of Antioch and See also:Palestine, the Maronites being inclined to take the part of the crusading princes against the Druses and Moslems; but they were still regarded as heretic See also:Monothelites by Abulfaragius (See also:Bar-Hebraeus) at the end of the 13th century; nor is their effectual reconciliation to See also:Rome much older than 1736, the date of the See also:mission sent by the See also:pope See also:Clement XII., which fixed the actual status of their church . An informal French See also:protection had, however, been exercised over them for some time previously, and with it began the feud of Maronites and Druses, the latter incited and spasmodically supported by Ottoman pashas . The feudal organization of both, the one under the See also:house of Khazin, the other under those of Maan and Shehab successively, was in full force during the 17th and 18th centuries; and it was the break-up of this in the first part of the 19th century which produced the anarchy that culminated after 184o in the See also:civil See also:war . The Druses renounced their Shehab amirs when Beshir al-Kassim openly joined the Maronites in 1841, and the Maronites definitely revolted from the Khazin in 1858 . The events of 186o led to the formation of the privileged Lebanon province, finally constituted in 1864 . It should be added, however, that among the Druses of Shuf, feudalism has tended to re-establish itself, and the See also:power is now divided between the Jumblat and Yezbeki families, a leading member of one of which is almost always Ottoman kaimakam of the Druses, and locally called emir . The Lebanon has now been constituted a sanjak or mutessariflik, dependent directly on the See also:Porte, which acts in this case in consultation with the six great See also:powers . This province extends about 93 m. from N. to S . (from the boundary of the sanjak of Tripoli to that of the caza of Saida), and has a mean breadth of about 28 m. from one See also:foot of the chain to the other, beginning at the edge of the littoral plain behind Beirut and ending at the W. edge of the Buka'a: but the boundaries are See also:ill-defined, especially on the E. where the See also:original line See also:drawn along the See also:crest of the ridge has not been adhered to, and the mountaineers have encroached on the Buka'a . The Lebanon is under a military See also:governor (mushir)who must be a Christian in the service of the See also:sultan, approved by the powers, and has, so far, been chosen from the Roman Catholics owing to the great preponderance of Latin Christians in the province . He resides at See also:Deir al-Kamar, an old seat of the Druse amirs . At first appointed for three years, then for ten, his See also:term has been fixed since 1892 at five years, the longer term having aroused the fear of the Porte, lest a See also:personal domination should become established . Under the governor are seven kaimakams, all Christians except a Druse in Shuf, and See also:forty-seven mudirs, who all depend on the kaimakams except one in the See also:home district of Deir al-Kamar . A central mejliss or See also:Council of twelve members is composed of four Maronites, three Druses, one Turk, two Greeks (Orthodox), one See also:Creek Uniate and one Metawali . This was the original proportion, and it has not been altered in spite of the decline of the Druses and increase of the Maronites . The members are elected by the seven cazas . In each mudirieh there is also a local mejliss . The old feudal and mukataji (see DRUsEs) jurisdictions are abolished, i.e. they often persist under Ottoman forms, and three courts of First Instance, under the mejliss, and See also: |