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LEGHORN (Ital. Livorno, Fr. Livourne)

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Originally appearing in Volume V16, Page 378 of the 1911 Encyclopedia Britannica.
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LEGHORN (Ital. Livorno, Fr. Livourne)  , a city of Tuscany, Italy, chief
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town of the province of the same name, which consists of the commune of Leghorn and the islands of Elba and Gorgona . The town is the seat of a bishopric and of a large
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naval academy—the only one in Italy—and the third largest commercial
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port in the
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kingdom, situated on the west coast, 12 m . S.V. of Pisa by
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rail, 10 ft. above sea-level . Pop . (Igor) 78,308 (town), 96,528 (commune) . It is built along the sea-
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shore upon a healthy and fertile tract of
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land, which forms, as it were, an oasis in a zone of Maremma . Behind is a range of hills, the most conspicuous of which, the
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Monte
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Nero, is crowned by a frequented pilgrimage church and also by villas and hotels, to which a funicular railway runs . The town itself is almost entirely
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modern . The 16th-century Fortezza Vecchia, guarding the harbour, is picturesque, and there is a good
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bronze statue of the
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grand duke Ferdinand I. by Pietro Tacca (r577-164o), a pupil of Giovanni da Bologna . The lofty Torre del Marzocco, erected in J423 by the Florentines, is
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fine . The
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facade of the
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cathedral was designed by Inigo Jones . The old
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Protestant cemetery contains the tombs of Tobias Smollett (d .

1771) and

Francis Horner (d . 1817) . There is also a large synagogue founded in 1581 . The
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exchange, the chamber of commerce and the clearing-house (one of the
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oldest in theworld, dating from 1764) are
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united under one roof in the Palazzo del Commercio, opened in 1907 . Several improvements have been carried out in the city and port, and the place is developing rapidly as an
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industrial centre . The naval academy, formerly established partly at Naples and partly at Genoa, has been transferred to Leghorn . Some of the navigable canals which connected the harbour with the interior of the city have been either modified or filled up . Several streets have been widened, and a road along the shore has been transformed into a fine and shady
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promenade . Leghorn is the
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principal sea-bathing resort in this
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part of Italy, the season lasting from the end of
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June to the end of August . A
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spa for the use of the Acque della Salute has been constructed . Leghorn is on the main
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line from Pisa to Rome; another line runs to Colic Salvetti . A considerable number of important steamship lines call here .

The new rectilinear

mole, sanctioned in 1881, has been built out into the sea for a distance of 600 yds. from the old Vegliaia lighthouse, and the docking basin has been lengthened to 490 ft . Inside the
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breakwater the
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depth varies from ro to 26 ft . The
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total trade of the port increased from £3,853,593 in 1897 to £5,675,z85 in 1905 and £7,009,758 in r906 (the large increase being mainly due to a rise of over £r,000,000 in imports—mainly of
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coal,
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building materials and machinery), the
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average ratio of imports to exports being as three to two . The imports consist principally of machinery, coal, grain, dried fish,
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tobacco and hides, and the exports of hemp, hides, olive oil,
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soap,
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coral, candied fruit, wine,
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straw hats, boracic acid, mercury, and marble and alabaster . In 1885 the total number of vessels that entered the port was 4281 of 1,434,000 tons; of these, 1251 of 750,000 tons were
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foreign; 688,000 tons of merchandise were loaded and unloaded . In 1906, after considerable fluctuations during the
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interval, the total number that entered was 4623 vessels of 2,372,551 tons; of these, 935 of 1,002,119 tons were foreign;
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British
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ships representing about
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half this
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tonnage . In 1906 the total imports and exports amounted to 1,470,000 tons including
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coasting trade . A
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great obstacle to the development of the port is the absence of modern
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mechanical appliances for loading and unloading vessels, and of quay space and
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dock accommodation . The older shipyards have been considerably extended, and
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shipbuilding is actively carried on, especially by the Orlando yard which builds large ships for the
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Italian
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navy, while new industries—namely, glass-making and copper and brass-founding, electric power
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works, a cement factory,
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porcelain factories,
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flour-mills, oil-mills, a cotton
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yarn spinning factory, electric plant works, a
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ship-breaking yard, a motor-boat yard, &c.—have been established . Other important firms, Tuscan wine-growers, oil-growers,
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timber traders, colour manufacturers, &c., have their head offices and stores at Leghorn, with a view to export . The former British " factory " here was of great importance for the trade with the
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Levant, but was closed in 1825 . The two villages of Ardenza and Antignano, which form part of the commune, have acquired considerable importance, the former in part for sea-bathing .

The earliest mention of Leghorn occurs in a document of 891,

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relating to the first church here; in 1017 it is called a castle . In the 13th century the Pisans tried to attract a population to the, spot, but it was not till the 14th that Leghorn became a
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rival of
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Porto Pisano at the mouth of the Arno, which it was destined ultimately to supplant . It was at Leghorn that Urban V. and Gregory XI. landed on their return from
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Avignon . When in 1405 the king of France sold Pisa to the Florentines he kept possession of Leghorn; but he afterwards (1407) sold it for 26,000 ducats to the Genoese, and from the Genoese the Florentines
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purchased it in 1421 . In 1496 the city showed its devotion to its new masters by a successful defence against Maximilian and his allies, but it was still a small place; in 1551 there were only 749 inhabitants . With the rise of the Medici came a rapid increase of prosperity; Cosmo, Francis and Ferdinand erected fortifications and harbour works, warehouses and churches, with equal liberality, and the last especially gave a stimulus to trade by inviting " men of the East and the West,
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Spanish and Portuguese, Greeks, Germans, Italians, Hebrews,
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Turks, Moors, Armenians, Persians and others," to settle and
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traffic in the city, as it became in 1606 . Declared
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free and neutral in 1691, Leghorn was permanently invested with these privileges by the Quadruple
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Alliance in 1718; but in 1796
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Napoleon seized all the hostile vessels in its port . It ceased to be a free city by the law of 1867 . (T .

End of Article: LEGHORN (Ital. Livorno, Fr. Livourne)
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