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MOROCCO

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Originally appearing in Volume V18, Page 859 of the 1911 Encyclopedia Britannica.
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MOROCCO  (See also:

Ea MAG11RIB EL AKSA, " The Farthest See also:West," i.e. of the See also:Mahommedan See also:world), an See also:independent See also:state of See also:North See also:Africa, bounded on the N. by the Mediterranean, on the E. by See also:Algeria, on the S . (indefinitely) by the See also:Sahara, and on the W. by the See also:Atlantic as far See also:south as See also:Wad Dra'a . Its landward limits can only be vaguely defined . The eastern frontier towards Algeria, determined by the treaty of 1844, is a purely conventional See also:line starting from the mouth of a small stream called the Skis and See also:running across See also:country in a See also:general S.S.E. direction . In 1900 this was given a See also:westerly trend to the south of the See also:Atlas by the See also:annexation of the Figig, Igli and That oases by See also:France . The See also:southern boundaries expand and See also:contract according to the See also:power and acivity of the central authorities . Behm and See also:Wagner, who included Figig, That, Kenatsa and other oases, estimated (in 1882) the then See also:area of the sultanate at 305,548 sq. m . The See also:allegiance of many of the tribes within this See also:compass is questionable and intermittent, and the loss of the See also:district from Figig to That, which is not accurately defined, has considerably reduced the area . Morocco is • still the portion of See also:Northern Africa about which See also:European See also:information is most defective, and all maps are still to a considerable extent composed of unscientific material eked out by probabilities and conjecture . The Mediterranean See also:Coast Lands.—The seaward aspect of Morocco only is known in detail . To the Mediterranean it preseirts for about 200 M. the rugged See also:profile of the Rif hills (still unexplored), which generally end in lines of cliff broken at intervals by narrow sweeps of sandy See also:beech, but occasionally open up into beautiful and fertile valleys., About 6 m. west of the Skis lies the mouth of the See also:river Mulwiya.! and to m. farther on, opposite Cabo del Agua (See also:Ras Sidi Bashir), is a See also:group of dry and barren islands, owned by See also:Spain, known as See also:Chaffarinas or Jazair Zafran (See also:Spanish See also:las Chafarinas), which protect the best roadstead on the Rif coast . Between Point Quiviana and See also:Melilla runs a See also:low and sandy See also:shore in front of a See also:great See also:salt See also:marsh, the See also:Mar Chica of the Spaniards .

Melilla (Meliliya) is a fortified See also:

rock convict station or presidio, held by the Spaniards since 1497, forming a See also:peninsula connected by lines of rampart with Fort See also:Rosario on the heights behind . The See also:fine semicircular See also:bay of Alhucemas is the seaward end of one of the most beautiful valleys in the Rif, clothed with verdure and dotted with hamlets., A Spanish presidio occupies one of the larger of the Alhucemas islands (Al-Mazemma), which are identified with the Ad See also:Sex Insulas of the itineraries . Another Spanish presidio crowns the See also:island rock Pefion de Velez; and in the valley off which it lies stood a See also:town known to the Spaniards as Velez de See also:Gomera, to the See also:Arabs as Badis,which continued to be a See also:place of importance in the 16th See also:century . The so-called Bay of See also:Tetuan (Tettawan)—the town is just visible from the See also:sea—is little more than the straight stretch of coast between Cape Mazari on the south and Cape See also:Negro or Negrete on the north; but the prominence of these two headlands gives it an See also:appearance of See also:depth . From Cape Negro northwards to See also:Ceuta the most notable See also:object is the See also:summit of See also:Jebel Musa, which, though situated on the Strait of See also:Gibraltar, towers above the intervening hills . Ceuta (Sibta), the most important of the Spanish settlements in Morocco, occupies a peninsula—the See also:head, Mt Acho, See also:standing about 4 M. out to sea, and the See also:neck being low and narrow . It marks the eastern end of the strait . Westwards, the first point of.See also:interest is again Jebel Musa, the Elephas of See also:Strabo, and the Apes' See also:Hill of See also:English charts . About 20 m. farther along the coast lies the Bay of See also:Tangier (Tanja), one of the finest harbours in Morocco . West from Tangier runs the Jebel Kebir (rising to a little over moo ft.), the seaward extremity of which forms Cape Spartel, the north-west See also:angle of the See also:African See also:continent, known to the ancients as Ampelusia or See also:Cotes Promontorium . The lighthouse, 312 ft. above sea-level, built in 1865 at the cost of the See also:sultan of Morocco, and maintained at the See also:joint expense of See also:England, France, See also:Italy and Spain, is the only one on the western coast . It is provided with a fixed intermittent See also:white See also:light, visible for 36 m .

The Atlantic Coast Line.—The Atlantic coast of Morocco is remarkable for its regularity; it has not a single gulf or noteworthy See also:

estuary; the capes are few and for the most See also:part feebly marked . Southward from Cape Spartel the shore sinks rapidly till it is within a few feet of the sea-level . In the low cliff which it forms about 42 M. from the lighthouse there is a great See also:quarry, which from remote antiquity has yielded the See also:hand-See also:mills used in the Tangier district . A stretch of low marshy ground along the Tahaddart estuary—W . Muharhar and W. el-Kharrub—agrees with ScyIax's Gulf of Cotes (See also:Tissot) . Eight m. farther lies Azila, the See also:ancient Colonia Julia See also:Constantia Zilis, with a Moorish and Jewish See also:population of about 1200 . For the next 16 m., between Azila and See also:Laraish (Laraiche), the coast has a tolerably bold background of hills, Jebel Sarsar forming an important landmark for the latter town which, with its Phoenician, See also:Roman and See also:medieval remains, is historically one of the most interesting places in Morocco . A line of reddish cliffs about 300 ft. high runs south for about 10 m. from the W . Lekkus, at whose mouth the town is built; then the coast sinks till it reaches the See also:shrine of Mulai Bu Selham on an See also:eminence 220 ft. high . Between Mulai Bu Selham (often wrongly called " Old Mamora") and a similar height crowned by the See also:tomb of Sidi 'Abd See also:Allah Jelali lies the outlet of the See also:Blue See also:Lake (Marja Zarka), to or 12 M. See also:long . Farther south, and separated from the sea by an unbroken line of rounded hills (230–260 ft.), is the much more extensive See also:lagoon of Ras ed-Dura, which in the dry See also:season becomes a See also:series of marshy See also:meres, but in the See also:rainy season fills up and discharges into the Sebu . Eastward it is connected with the Marjat el-Gharb, fed by the W .

Meda . On the south See also:

side of the outlet of the Sebu lies Mehediya (otherwise misnamed New Mamora or Mehduma) founded by 'Abd el-Mumin, and named after the Muwahhadi See also:Mandi . It was held by Spain from 1614 to 1681 . Twenty See also:miles farther is the mouth of the Bu Ragrag, with See also:Salli (Sla) on the north side, long famous for its piracies, and still one of the most fanatical places in the See also:empire, and on the south side See also:Rabat, with its conspicuous See also:Hassan See also:tower, and Sheila with its interesting ruins . Onward for too m. to Point Azammur and the mouth of the Um er-Rabi'a river a line of hills skirts the sea; the shore is for the most part low, and, with the exception of capes at Fedala (a small See also:village, originally a See also:port, partly rebuilt by Mulai See also:Ismail, and completed by ,Mahommed XVII., who opened it to Europeans between 176o and 1773) and See also:Dar el-Baida or See also:Casablanca, it runs in a straight line west-south-west . Azammur (See also:Berber for " The See also:Wild See also:Olives," viz. of the See also:Sheikh Bu Shaib)—once the frontier town of the See also:kingdom of See also:Fez—stands on an eminence about 11 m. from the sea on the south side of the See also:Urn er-Rabi'a, here some 15o ft. wide, deep and red, with an obstructing See also:bar . The bay of See also:Mazagan, a few miles to the south, curves westward with a boldness of sweep unusual on this coast . About 8 m. to the south, and less than t m. inland, See also:lie the extensive ruins of Tit, a town which proved a See also:thorn in the side of the Portuguese of Mazagan till they destroyed it . At Cape Blanco (so called from its white cliffs) the coast, which bulged out at Cape Mazagan, again bends south to resume much the same general direction for 55 m. to Cape Cantin . On this stretch the only point of interest is the site of the vanished Walidiya, formerly El-Ghait, with an excellent See also:harbour, formed by an extensive lagoon, which by a little dredging would become the safest See also:shipping station on the whole Morocco seaboard . About 18 m. farther lies See also:Saffi (Asfi), the most picturesque spot on the west coast, with the high walls and quare towers of its Portuguese fortifications shown to See also:advantage by the ruggedness of the site . Sixty miles farther south lies See also:Mogador, beyond which the coast becomes more and more inaccessible and dangerous in See also:winter, being known to navigators as the " See also:Iron Coast." From Cape Sim (Ras Tagriwalt), to m. south of Mogador, the direction is due south to Cape Ghir (Ighir Ufrani), the termination of Jebel See also:Ida u Taman, a See also:spur of the Atlas .

Beyond this headland lies Agadir (Agadir Ighir), the See also:

Santa Cruz See also:Mayor or Santa Cruz de Berberia of the Spaniards, formerly known as the See also:Gate of the See also:Sudan.' It is a little town with white battlements three-quarters of a mile in circumference, on a steep eminence 600 ft. high . In the 16th century it was seized by the Portuguese; but in 1536 it was captured by Mulai Ahmad, one of the founders of the Sa'adi See also:dynasty . Some 6o m. farther south, at the mouth of a river known by the same name, is the roadstead of See also:Massa, with a See also:mosque popularly reputed the See also:scene of See also:Jonah's restoration to terra firma . This port2 was regularly visited by the Genoese traders in the 16th century, who exported skins, See also:gum, See also:wax, See also:gold and See also:indigo . Another 5o m. farther south lies Ifni, a landing-place easily recognizable by the shrine of Sidi Worzek, a few miles to the . English Afiles O [o to 40 So tzo i6o Red/ways ...................... ..•-++ See also:Principal Routs —{ Ancient Sites pia See also:Character of the Interior.—The backbone of the country is the Great Atlas (Daren of the See also:Berbers), for which see ATLAS . The principal See also:rivers take their rise in the Atlas Mountains, and the headwaters of the Mulwiya, the Sebu, the Urn er Rabi'a, the Dra'a and the Ziz all rise between 32° 20' and 32° 30' N., and between 3° 30' and 5° W . The Mulwiya (Mulucha and Malva of See also:Pliny, &c.) is the river which the See also:French have long wished to make the western boundary of Algeria . Its course is largely unexplored See also:save by native French officials . About 340 20' N . General Colvile found it some 200 yds. wide but quite 6° o~ C .

See also:

Sport W. rahTan ¢¢SSe ad,kns ! Aaila ldrakhea (El Araish Mulai Bu Suiham Morja ZarNa C.Gi.,Ughi.5 rani Agadir (Agadir, fgh W.Maxsal Ma .. X15': south of which is the Cape Non 3 of the Portuguese . The better known Cape See also:Nun lies 5 or 6 m. north of the W . Nun, at'the mouth of which is Assaka, a port which the sultan of Morocco opened to See also:foreign See also:trade in 1882, but closed after six months . From Assaka to the mouth of the Dra`a the country continues broken and fertile, but farther south it is flatter and more sandy, so that with the Dra`a the Sahara may be said to begin . ' This must not be confounded with Santa Cruz de Mar Pequena, a See also:post established in 1476 somewhere on this coast by See also:Herrera, See also:lord of the See also:Canary Islands . After obtaining permission to re-occupy the post in 1861, the Spanish See also:government was unable to identify it, though in all See also:probability the See also:original site was the lagoon known as Puerto Cansado, much farther south . But this is now too remote a spot to be See also:worth colonizing, hence the See also:desire to substitute some other . Ifni, on old maps Gueder, was chosen (1878), there being some See also:evidence to show that it was possibly the true Site of the ancient fort . a See Valentin See also:Ferdinand, Beschreibung West Afrikas (Mem. of the Acad. of See also:Munich, 3rd Class, pt. viii.) . 3 No, Non, Nor, Naum, Nat), are among the various readings .

• It was another Cape Non to the south of Cape Bojador which seems to have given rise to the See also:

proverb, See also:Quern pasar o cabo de Nao ou tornara ou ndo . See Bol. de la See also:Soc . Geogr . (See also:Madrid, 1880), p . 316 . See also:Emery See also:Walker ac . shallow; about 25 M. See also:east of its source, where it is crossed by the route to Ziz, it is already a powerful stream with a deep See also:bed cut in the See also:granite rock, and shortly afterwards it is joined by the W . Sgimmel, a still larger affluent (See also:Rohlfs) . Of the lesser streams which flow into the Mediterranean it is enough to mention the W . Martil or See also:Martin (otherwise W . Bu Sfiha, W . Ras, W .

Mejeksa), which falls into the Bay of Tetuan, and is identified with the Tamuda of Pliny and Thaluda of See also:

Ptolemy . On the Atlantic seaboard there are a number of comparatively small streams north of the Sebu, the See also:chief of which is the winding W . Lekkus, with several tributaries . The Sebu (the Subur magnificus et navigabilis of Pliny) may be compared to the See also:Thames in length and width, though not in steadiness and depth of current . At Meshra'at el-Ksiri, about 70 M. from its mouth, it is about to ft. deep in the See also:month of May and more than 46o ft. wide; and, though its See also:banks are 21 ft. high, extensive inundations occur . The See also:tide ascends as far as El-Kantara, 15 M. above Ma'See also:mora, and See also:steam See also:barges with a small See also:draught of See also:water could make their way to the See also:ford just mentioned, and possibly even as far as Fez . Af luents of the Sebu are W . Mikkes and W . Redem (90 m. long) . The See also:swift and muddy current of W . Beht usually loses itself in a swamp before it reaches the See also:main stream . The Bu Ragrag, which debouches between Rabat and Salli, is about the same length as the Beht, but of much more importance .

It and the Urn er-RabI'a (See also:

mother of grass), although their mouths are widely separated, drain the northern slopes of the central Atlas . The impetuous Um er-Rabl'a, with a rocky bed and many rapids, is perhaps as large as the Sebu . W. el-Abiael, W . Akhdar and W . Tessaut are the principal affluents . This last is separated by about ro m. only from the valley of the Tansift, the river which flows to the north of the See also:city of See also:Marrakesh; and by the W . Nefis, the Asif el-Mal (Asif is Berber for river), the W . Usbi, and other smaller tributaries, receives the See also:waters of about r8o m. of the Atlas range . The valley between",;the Atlas and the See also:Anti-Atlas is traversed by the W . See also:Sus, whose ever-flowing stream is sufficient to turn the whole district into a See also:garden . The Massa or W. al-Ghas, though its headwaters drain only one or two of the lesser valleys at the south-west end of the Anti-Atlas, is "about 5o yds. from See also:bank to bank at the mouth, with a depth at high water and in the proper channel of something over a See also:fathom." Farther south is the Assaka, known to European geographers as the W . Nun; and finally the W .

Dra'a is reached, which in length exceeds all the rivers of Morocco, but, except in See also:

spring, when the snows are melting in the See also:highlands, remains throughout its See also:lower reaches a dry sandy channel . In the upper valleys however innumerable streams from the south side of the main See also:chain of the Atlas, the W . Dades from the east, and the Asif Marghen, W. el-Molah, or Warzazet from the west, flow through populous and fertile valleys, and uniting to See also:form the Dra`a cut their way southward through a See also:gorge in the Jebel Soghar, which, as the name implies, is a lower range running parallel to the Atlas proper . For the next 130 M. the stream holds S.S.E., drained at every step by the See also:irrigation canals which turn this region into a See also:green See also:oasis, till at last it:, dwindling current bends westward to the sebkha (salt marsh) of Debaya . For a few See also:weeks once a See also:year the thaw-floods fill this shallow but extensive See also:basin and See also:rush onwards to the Atlantic; but in summer it dries up, and, like the bed of the river for some distance below, is covered with flourishing crops . From the south of the Atlas still farther east descend other streams, the W . Ziz (with its tributaries the W . Todgha and W . Gheris), the W . Ghir, the W . Kenatsa, &c., which, after watering the oases of Medghara, See also:Tafilalt (Sajilmasa), Kenatsa, &c., lose themselves in the sands of the Sahara . [See also:Geology.—The Atlas Mountains, which are built up of a series of ridges rising to 12,000 ft. to the east of Morocco, form the backbone of the country .

The central and highest portions consist of slates, crystalline limestones and See also:

schists of Archean, Pre-See also:Cambrian and possibly of Cambrian ages . They are much folded and broken through by numerous intrusions of basalts and diorites . The See also:mass of Jebel Tezah is composed of See also:mica-schists and porphyries which appear to See also:bear closer resemblances to the metamorphic rocks of See also:Egypt than to the Archean crystalline formation of Central Africa . The strata of the central ridges are succeeded by a great thickness of See also:purple marls, red sandstones, conglomerates and calcareous rocks, occurring in faulted, folded and detached areas and recently considered to range from See also:Silurian to Trias . Later palaeozoic rocks of Devonian and Carboniferous ages also form a broad See also:zone extending into the Sahara on the southern and south-eastern flanks . The whole of the Cretaceous See also:system is represented by the shales and See also:lime-stones occurring between the coast and the edge of the See also:plateau above Morocco, but do not enter into the See also:composition of the High Atlas . Moraines, made up largely of unstriated blocks of See also:porphyry, have been reported from the Upper Atlas . At the See also:foot of the mountains, extensive mounds of See also:boulder beds are See also:developed on an immense See also:scale and were considered by Maw to belong to the Glacial See also:Epoch . Between Damnat and the sea, however, the signs of a former glaciation appear to be insignificant . No moraines occur here, and consequently the glacial origin of the boulder beds described by Maw has been disputed . They are probably alluvial cones brought down from the High Atlas and mountainous regions . From Mogador to 6o m. inland, and over the plains around Marrakesh, a tufaceous See also:deposit forming a hard crust, several feet thick, follows every undulation of the ground .

Immense accumulations of tufa are met with in the See also:

limestone areas of the mountains . The chief tectonic structures which trend N . 2o° E. belong to the Alpine and Mediterraneansystems . The Cretaceous and See also:Tertiary rocks are involved in these movements, which, however, were moulded on an earlier folding affecting the palaeozoic rocks of the Atlas region . The sundering of Africa from See also:Europe at the Straits of Gibraltar took place in See also:late Tertiary times; while the See also:elevation of the See also:Barbary coast to a height of 5o to 70 ft. is of See also:Recent date.] See also:Climate.—The climate is See also:good, and produces a See also:hardy See also:race . Shielded by the Atlas from the hot winds of the Sahara, the coast of the Atlantic offers great attractions to those suffering from See also:chest complaints . Tangier is a recognized See also:health resort, and Mogador and Rabat await development as such . See also:Rain falls only between See also:September and See also:April; on the Atlantic coast it is brought by the south-west See also:wind, and on the Mediterranean sometimes also by the east wind, or sharki, otherwise dry and somewhat trying to invalids . The wonderfully temperate climate of Mogador is due in a great measure to trustworthy trade-winds . In Tangier and Mogador the thermometer seldom rises over 8o° F. or sinks below 40°, although inland the extremes are much greater; and while on the plains or in low-lying cities the See also:heat grows intense, See also:snow gleams on the Atlas nearly all the year See also:round . The best months for visiting the interior are September (if rain has fallen), See also:October, See also:November and the See also:early part of See also:December, or May and See also:June . See also:Fauna.—The See also:absence of woodland keeps wild animals in check .

Besides the See also:

lion, which exists in very limited See also:numbers—and, according to See also:local See also:proverbs, with diminished courage—the spotted See also:leopard, See also:panther, hyaena, See also:jackal, See also:lynx, See also:fox, wild See also:boar, See also:porcupine, See also:antelope and gazelle are the most important . The audad or wild See also:sheep is found in the more inaccessible parts of the Atlas . Rabbits swarm in the country to the north of the Bu Ragrag, and since 187o they have crossed this stream. which used to be their southern limit . See also:Hares are generally See also:common . Rats are from See also:time to time a See also:plague to agriculturists, and the See also:jerboa is frequently met with . A See also:kind of ground-See also:squirrel, the sibsib, occurs in the southern provinces . Monkeys of the same See also:species as those of Gibraltar frequent the neighbourhood of Jebel Musa or Apes' Hill . The common wild birds include blackbirds, goldfinches, linnets, greenfinches, See also:robins, wagtails, skylarks and crested larks, swifts, magpies, cuckoos, lapwings, rollers, several shrikes, as well as turtle-doves, nightingales, jays and See also:buff-backed egrets . The See also:house-See also:sparrow is not found; between Marrakesh and Mogador its place is taken by a beautiful See also:bird (Emberiza strio lata), locally called tabib, or " See also:doctor." The birds of See also:prey include eagles, vultures, ospreys, buzzards, falcons, harriers, kestrels, kites, ravens and See also:hawks . Hawking is still indulged in by some of the country See also:governors, and the See also:Moors are very fond of See also:hunting, many keeping greyhounds . The Barbary See also:partridge is the main resource of the sportsman, though he may also bag several other varieties of partridge, bustards, See also:guinea-See also:fowl, plovers, See also:grouse, See also:snipe, See also:quail, See also:curlew, ducks and other water-fowl . Along the coast there is no lack of gulls, gannets, pelicans, flamingoes, herons, whimbrel, See also:oyster-catchers, &c .

Most towns have their See also:

colony of storks . Several. venomous See also:snakes and two vipers are found, but are not common, and the same may be said of scorpions and tarantulas, but centipedes are more numerous . Human parasites are, however, most to be guarded against . Mosquitos give little trouble save in towns or near water . Invasions of locusts are serious, but intermittent . Lizards, chameleons, tortoises and frogs are See also:familiar See also:objects; it is from Morocco that the small tortoises hawked about the streets of See also:London are usually obtained . Of domestic animals the See also:mule is the great beast of See also:burden, though camels, mares and asses are also employed . The See also:horse is usually a sturdy little See also:animal, but far below the ancient reputation of the Barbary steed . It is seldom used as a draught animal . Roughly broken when See also:young, his mouth is soon spoiled by barbarous bits, and his feet by square shoes . The finest animals are said to be bred in Shiadhma and Abda . In form and See also:size the mules are much See also:superior and usually fetch two or three times the See also: