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PATAGONIA

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Originally appearing in Volume V20, Page 902 of the 1911 Encyclopedia Britannica.
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PATAGONIA  , the name given to that portion of See also:

South See also:America which, to the See also:east of the See also:Andes, lies mainly south of the Rio See also:Negro (41° S.), and, to the See also:west of the Andes, south of the Chilean See also:province of See also:Llanquihue (42° S.) . The Chilean portion embraces the two provinces of Chiloe and See also:Magallanes . East of the Andes the See also:Argentine portion of Patagonia is divided into four territories: (I) See also:Neuquen, 42,000 sq. in. approximately, including the triangle between the See also:rivers Limay and Neuquen, and extending south-See also:ward to the See also:northern See also:shore of See also:Lake Nahuel-Huapi (41° S.) and northward to the Rio See also:Colorado; (2) Rio Negro, 76,000 sq. m. approximately, extending from the See also:Atlantic to the See also:Cordillera of the Andes, to the See also:north of 42° S.; (3) See also:Chubut, 95,000 sq. m. approximately, embracing the region between 42° and 46° S.; and (4) that portion of the province of See also:Santa Cruz which stretches from the last-named parallel as far south as the dividing See also:line with See also:Chile, and between Point See also:Dungeness and the See also:watershed of the Cordillera, an See also:area approximately of ro6,000 sq. m . Physiography.—The See also:general See also:character of the Argentine portion of Patagonia is for the most See also:part a region of vast See also:steppe-like plains, rising in a See also:succession of abrupt terraces about 300 ft. at a See also:time, and covered with an enormous See also:bed of See also:shingle almost See also:bare of vegetation . In the hollows of the plains are ponds or lakes of brackish and fresh See also:water . Towards the Andes the shingle gives See also:place to See also:porphyry, See also:granite and See also:basalt lavas, See also:animal See also:life becomes more abundant and vegetation more luxuriant, acquiring the characteristics of the See also:flora of the western See also:coast, and consisting principally of the See also:beech and conifers . Among the depressions by which the See also:plateau is intersected transversely, the See also:principal are the Gualichu, south of the Rio Negro, the Maquinchau and Balcheta (through which previously flowed the See also:waters of lake Nahuel-Huapi, which now feed the See also:river Limay); the Senguerr, the Deseado . Besides these transverse depressions (some of them marking lines of See also:ancient inter-oceanic communication), there are others which were occupied by more or less extensive lakes, such as the Yagagtoo, Musters and Colhuapi, and others situated to the south of Puerto Deseado, in the centre of the See also:country . In the central region volcanic eruptions, which have taken part in the formation of the plateau from the See also:Tertiary See also:period down to the pre-sent era, See also:cover a large part with basaltic See also:lava-caps; and in the western third more See also:recent glacial deposits appear above the lava . There, in contact with folded Cretaceous rocks, uplifted by the Tertiary granite, erosion, caused principally by the sudden melting and re-treat of the See also:ice, aided by tectonic changes, has scooped out a deep See also:longitudinal depression, which generally separates the plateau from the first lofty hills, the ridges generally called the pre-Cordillera, while on the west of these there is a similar longitudinal depression all along the See also:foot of the snowy Andean Cordillera . This latter depression contains the richest and most fertile See also:land of Patagonia . The See also:geological constitution is in accordance with the orographic See also:physiognomy .

The Tertiary plateau, See also:

flat on the east, gradually rising on the west, shows Upper Cretaceous caps at its See also:base . First come See also:Lower Cretaceous hills, raised by granite and dioritic rocks, undoubtedly of Tertiary origin, as in some cases these rocks have broken across the Tertiary beds, so See also:rich in mammal remains; then follow, on the west, metamorphic See also:schists of uncertain See also:age; then quartzites appear, resting directly on the See also:primitive granite and See also:gneiss which See also:form the See also:axis of the Cordillera . Porphyritic rocks occur between the schists and the quartzites . The Tertiary deposits are greatly varied in character, and there is considerable difference of See also:opinion concerning the succession and correlation of thg beds . They are divided by Wilckens 2 into the following See also:series (in ascending See also:order) : 1 . Pyrotherium-Notostylops beds . Of terrestrial origin, containing remains of See also:mammalia . See also:Eocene and Oligocene . 2 O . Wilckens, " See also:Die Meeresablagerungen der Kreide- and Tertiar-formation in Patagonien," in Neues Jahrb. f . See also:Min., Beilage-See also:Band XXI . (1906), 98-195 .

2 . Patagonian Molasse . Partly marine, partly terrestrial . Lower See also:

Miocene . Wilckens includes in this series the See also:coal of Punta Arenas, and the marine beds below it . 3 . Santa Cruz series . Containing remains of mammals . See also:Middle and Upper Miocene . 4 . See also:Parana series . Sandstones and conglomerates with marine fossils .

See also:

Pliocene . Confined to the eastern part of the region . The Upper Cretaceous and Tertiary deposits have revealed a most interesting vertebrate See also:fauna . This, together with the See also:discovery of the perfect cranium of a chelonian of the genus Myolania, which may be said to be almost identical with Myolania oweni of the See also:Pleistocene age in See also:Queensland, forms an evident See also:proof of the connexion between the Australian and South See also:American continents . The Patagonian Myolania belongs to the Upper See also:Chalk, having been found associated with remains of Dinosauria . Other specimens of the interesting fauna of Patagonia, belonging to the Middle Tertiary, are the gigantic wingless birds, exceeding See also:size any hitherto known, and the singular mammal Pyrotherium, also of very large dimensions . In the Tertiary marine formation a considerable number of cetaceans has been discovered . In deposits of much later date, formed when the physiognomy of the country did not differ materially from that of the See also:present time, there have been discovered remains of pampean mammals, such as See also:Glyptodon and See also:Macrauchenia, and in a See also:cave near Last See also:Hope Inlet, a gigantic ground See also:sloth (Grypotherium listai), an animal which lived contemporaneously with See also:man, and whose skin, well preserved, showed that its extermination was undoubtedly very recent . With the remains of Grypotherium have been found those of the See also:horse (Onoshippidium), which are known only from the lower See also:pampas mud, and of the Arctotherium, which is found, although not in abundance, in even the most See also:modern Pleistocene deposits in the pampas of Buenos Aires . It would not be surprising if this latter animal were still in existence, for footprints, which may be attributed to it, have been observed on the See also:borders of the rivers Tamango and Pista, affluents of the See also:Las Heras, which run through the eastern foot-hills of the Cordillera in 47° S . Glaciers occupy the valleys of the See also:main See also:chain and some of the lateral ridges of the Cordillera, and descend to lakes See also:San See also:Martin, Viedma, Argentino and others in the same locality, strewing them with icebergs . In Patagonia an immense ice-See also:sheet extended to the east of the present Atlantic coast during the first ice age, at the See also:close of the Tertiary See also:epoch, while, during the second glacial age in modern times, the terminal moraines have generally stopped, 30 See also:miles in the north and 5o miles in the south, east of the See also:summit of the Cordillera .

These ice-sheets, which scooped out the greater part of the longitudinal depressions, and appear to have rapidly retreated to the point where the glaciers now exist, did not, however, in their retirement fill up with their detritus the fjords of the Cordillera, for these are now occupied by deep lakes on the east, and on the west by the Pacific channels, some of which are as much as 250 fathoms in See also:

depth, and soundings taken in them show that the fjords are as usual deeper in the vicinity of the mountains than to the west of the islands . Several of the high peaks are still active volcanoes . In so far as its main characteristics are concerned, Patagonia seems to be a portion of the See also:Antarctic See also:continent, the permanence of which See also:dates from very recent times, as is evidenced by the apparent recent emergence of the islets around Chiloe, and by the general character of the pampean formation . Some of the promontories of Chiloe are still called huapi, the Araucanian See also:equivalent for " islands "; and this may perhaps be accepted as perpetuating the recollection of the time when they actually were islands . They are composed of caps of shingle, with See also:great, more or less rounded boulders, See also:sand and volcanic ashes, precisely of the same form as occurs on the Patagonian plateau . From an examination of the pampean formation it is evident that in recent times the land of the province of Buenos Aires extended farther to the east, and that the advance of the See also:sea, and the See also:salt-water deposits See also:left by it when it retired, forming some of the lowlands which occur on the littoral and in the interior of the pampas, are much more recent phenomena; and certain caps of shingle, derived from rocks of a different class from those of the neighbouring hills, which are observed on the Atlantic coasts of the same province, and increase in quantity and size towards the south, seem to indicate that the caps of shingle which now cover such a great part of the Patagonian territory recently extended farther to the east, over land which has now disappeared beneath the sea, while other marine deposits along the same coasts became converted into bays during the subsequent advance of the sea . There are besides, in the neighbourhood of the present coast, deposits of volcanic ashes, and the ocean throws up on its shores blocks of basaltic lava, which in all See also:probability proceed from eruptions of submerged volcanoes now See also:extinct . One fact, however, which apparently demonstrates with greater certainty the existence in recent times of land that is now lost, is the presence of remains of pampean mammals in Pleistocene deposits in the See also:bay of San See also:Julian and in Santa Cruz . The animals undoubtedly reached these localities from the east; it is not at all probable that they advanced from the north southwards across the plateau intersected at that cline by great rivers and covered by the ice-sheet . With the exception of the discoveries at the inlet of Ultima Esperanza, which isin close communication with the Atlantic valley of Gallegos, none of these remains have been discovered in the Andean regions . On the upper plains of Neuquen territory thousands of See also:cattle can be fed, and the forests around Lakes Traful and Nahuel-Huapi yield large quantities of valuable See also:timber . The Neuquen river is not navigable, but as its waters are capable of being easily dammed in places, large stretches of land in its valley are utilized; but the lands on each See also:side of its lower part are of little commercial value .

As the Cordillera is approached the See also:

soil becomes more fertile, and suitable districts for the rearing of cattle and other agricultural purposes exist between the regions which surround the Tromen See also:volcano and the first ridges of the Andes . Chos Malal, the See also:capital of the territory, is situated in one of these valleys . More to the west is the See also:mining region, in great part unexplored, but containing deposits of See also:gold, See also:silver, See also:copper and See also:lignite . In the centre of the territory, also in the neighbourhood of the mining districts, are the valleys of Norquin and Las Lajas, the general See also:camp of the Argentine See also:army in Patagonia, with excellent timber in the See also:forest on the Andean slope . The wide valleys occur near Rio See also:Malleco, Lake Huechulafquen, the river Chimehuin, and See also:Vega de Chapelco, near Lake Lacar, where are situated villages of some importance, such as See also:Junin de los Andes and San Martin de los Andes . Close to these are the famous See also:apple orchards supposed to have been planted by the See also:Jesuits in the 17th and 18th centuries . These regions are drained by the river Collon-Cura, the principal affluent of the river Limay . Lake Lacar is now a contributary of the Pacific, its outlet having been changed to the west, owing to a passage having been opened through the Cordillera . The Rio Negro runs along a wide transverse depression. the middle part of which is followed by the railway which runs to the See also:settlement of Neuquen at the confluence of the rivers Limay and Neuquen . In this depression are several settlements, among them Viedma, the capital of the Rio Negro territory, Pringles, Conesa, Choele-Choel and Roca . To the south of the Rio Negro the Patagonian plateau is intersected by the depressions of the Gualicho and Maquinchau, which in former times directed the waters of two great rivers (now disappeared) to the gulf of San Matias, the first-named depression draining the network of the Collon-Cura and the second the Nahuel-Huapi lake See also:system . In 42° S. there is a third broad trans-See also:verse depression, apparently the bed of another great river, now perished, which carried to the Atlantic the waters of a portion of the eastern slope of the Andes, between 410 and 420 30' S .

Chubut territory presents the same characteristics as the Rio Negro territory . Rawson, the capital, is situated at the mouth of the river Chubut on the Atlantic (42° 30' S.) . The See also:

town was founded in 1865 by a See also:group of colonists from "See also:Wales, assisted by the Argentine See also:government; and its prosperity has led to the See also:foundation of other important centres in the valley, such as Treleu and Gaiman, which is connected by railway with See also:Porto Madryn on See also:Bahia Nueva . Here is the seat of the See also:governor of the territory, and by 1895 the inhabitants of this part of the territory, composed principally of Argentines, Welsh and Italians, numbered 2585 . The valley has been irrigated and cultivated, and produces the best See also:wheat of the Argentine See also:Republic . Between the Chubut and the Senguerr there are vast stretches of fertile land, spreading over the Andean region to the foot of the Cordillera and the lateral ridges of the Pre-Cordillera, and filling the basins of some desiccated lakes, which have been occupied since 1885, and farms and colonies founded upon them . The See also:chief of these colonies is that of the 16th of See also:October (16 de Octobre), formed in 1886, mainly by the inhabitants of Chubut See also:colony, in the longitudinal valley which extends to the eastern foot of the Cordillera . Other rivers in this territory flow into the Pacific through breaches in the Cordillera, e.g. the upper affluents of the Fetaleufu, Palena and Rio Cisnes . The principal affluent of the Palena, the Carrenleufu, carries off the waters of Lake General Paz, situated on the eastern slope of the Cordillera . Rio See also:Pico, an affluent of the same river, receives nearly the whole of the waters of the extensive undulating See also:plain which lies between the Rio Teka and the Rio Senguerr to the east of the Cordillera, while the See also:remainder are carried away by the affluents of Rio Jehua, viz., the Cherque, Omkel and Appeleg . This region contains auriferous drifts, but these, like the auriferous deposits, See also:veins of See also:galena and lignite in the mountains farther west which flank the Cordillera, have not been properly investigated . At Lake See also:Fontana there are auriferous drifts and lignite deposits which abound in fossil See also:plants of the Cretaceous age .

The streams which form the rivers See also:

Mayo and Chalia join the tributaries of the Rio Aisen, which flows into the Pacific, watering in its course extensive and valuable districts where colonization has been initiated by Argentine settlers . Colonies have also been formed in the See also:basin of Lakes Musters and See also:Coll-me; and on the coasts near the Atlantic, along Bahia Camarones and the Gulf of San Jorge, there are extensive farms . The territory of Santa Cruz is arid along the Atlantic coast and in the central portion between 46° and 5o S . With the exception of certain valleys at Puerto Deseado (See also:Port See also:Desire) and in the trans-verse basins which occur as far south as Puerto San Julian, and which contain several cattle farms, few spots are capable of cultivation, the pastures being poor, water insufficient and salt lagunas fairly numerous . Puerto Deseado is the outlet for the produce of the Andean region situated between Lakes Buenos Aires and Pueyrredon . Into this inlet there flowed at the time of the See also:conquest a voluminous river, which subsequently disappeared, but returned again to its ancient bed, owing to the river Fenix, one of its affluents, which had deviated to the west, regaining its See also:original direction . Lake Buenos Aires, the largest lake in Patagonia, measuring 75 M. in length, poured its waters into the Atlantic even in See also:post-Glacial times by means of the river Deseado; and it is so depicted on the maps of the 17th and 18th centuries; and so too did Lake Pueyrredon, which, through the See also:action of erosion, now empties itself westward, through the river Las Heras, into the Calen inlet of the Pacific, in 48° S . San Julian on Puerto San Julian, where See also:Ferdinand See also:Magellan wintered, is the centre of a cattle farming colony, and colonists have pushed into the interior up the valley of a now extinct river which in comparatively recent times carried down to Puerto San Julian the waters of Lakes Volcan, Belgrano, See also:Azara, See also:Nansen, and some other lakes which now drain into the river See also:Mayer and so into Lake San Martin . The valleys of the Rio Chico throughout their whole extent, as well as those of Lake Shehuen, afford excellent grazing, and around Lakes Belgrano, Burmeister and Rio Mayer and San Martin there are spots suitable for cultivation . In the Cretaceous hills which flank the Cordillera important lignite beds and deposits of See also:mineral See also:oils have been discovered . The Rio Santa Cruz, originally explored by See also:Captain See also:Fitzroy and See also:Charles See also:Darwin, is an important artery of communication between the regions bordering upon the Cordillera and the Atlantic . In Santa Cruz bay an important See also:trade centre has been established .

Phoenix-squares

But the present cattle region See also:

par excellence of Patagonia is the See also:department of Rio Gallegos, the farms extending from the Atlantic to the Cordillera . Puerto Gallegos itself is an important business centre, which bids See also:fair to See also:rival the Chilean colony of Punta Arenas, on the Straits of Magellan . Owing to the produce of the cattle farms established there, the working of coal in the neighbourhood, and the export of timber from the surrounding forests, the town of Punta Arenas is in a flourishing See also:condition . Its See also:population See also:numbers about 4000 . But the colonization of the western (Chilean) coast has generally failed, principally owing to the adverse See also:climatic conditions of the Cordillera in those latitudes . See also:Climate.—The climate is less severe than was supposed by See also:early travellers . The east slope is warmer than the west, especially in summer, as a See also:branch of the See also:southern See also:equatorial current reaches its shores, whereas the west coast is washed by a See also:cold current . At Puerto See also:Montt, on the inlet behind Chiloe See also:Island. the mean See also:annual temperature is 52 ° F. and the See also:average extremes 78° and 29.5°, whereas at Bahia Blanca near the Atlantic coast and just outside the northern confines of Patagonia the annual temperature is 59° and the range much greater . At Punta Arenas, in the extreme south, the mean temperature is 43° and the average extremes 76° and 28° . The prevailing winds are See also:westerly, and the westward slope has a much heavier precipitation than the eastern; thus at Puerto Montt the mean annual precipitation is 97 in., but at Bahia Blanca it is 19 in . At Punta Arenas it is 22 in . Fauna.—The See also:guanaco, the See also:puma, the zorro or Brazilian See also:fox (Canis azarae), the zorrino or Mephitis patagonica (a See also:kind of See also:skunk), and the tuco-tuco or Ctenomys rnagellanicus (a rodent) are the most characteristic mammals of the Patagonian plains .

The guanaco roam in herds over the country and form with the See also:

ostrich (See also:Rhea americana, and more rarely Rhea darwinii) the chief means of subsistence for the natives, who See also:hunt them on horseback with See also:dogs and See also:bolas . See also:Bird-life is often wonderfully abundant . The carrancha or carrion-See also:hawk (Polyborus tharus) is one of the characteristic See also:objects of a Patagonian landscape; the presence of See also:long-tailed See also:green parakeets (Conurus cyanolysius) as far south as the shores of the strait attracted the See also:attention of the earlier navigators; and humming-birds may be seen flying amidst the falling See also:snow . Of the many kinds of water-See also:fowl it is enough to mention the See also:flamingo, the upland See also:goose, and in the strait the remarkable steamer See also:duck . Population.—The natives of Patagonia are nearly extinct . Here and there one may find a Tehuelchian or Gennaken encampment, but natives of pure See also:race are now very scarce, and the two races all told probably do not number more than zoo male individuals . The Tehuelches were the dominant race in Patagonia . These See also:people, from whom the name of Tierra de Patagones was given by Magellan on observing their large footprints, are remarkable for their great stature, having an average height of 6 ft. to 6 ft . 4 in . They are not known to have applied any collective name to their various tribes; See also:Tehuelche is the Araucanian name for them . They have been described as kindly in disposition, though sometimes quarrelsome; skilled in the See also:chase, addicted to gambling and to drinking, though also capable of long endurance of privation . Their See also:religion recognized a Great Spirit, and designated the new See also:moon as an See also:object of See also:worship .

The Gennakens differ in type and See also:

language from the Tehuelches . The remaining population is composed of See also:Araucanians, a mixture of the Tehuelches and Gennaken . But these are not the only type of people who have dwelt in Patagonia . The ancient See also:burial-places have yielded the bones of other racesquite distinct from the present inhabitants, some of them having greatly resembled the primitive types which are met with more to the north, in the Argentine See also:Chaco and in See also:Brazil; while others, again, strongly resembled certain of the Pacific races, in that they possessed ethnic characteristics which have not been observed elsewhere in South America . Among these remains every type of artificial deformity of the See also:skull hitherto known has been found, while at the present time the natives only practise the occipital deformation which is so See also:common among the western tribes of America . See also:History.—Patagonia was discovered in 1520 by Ferdinand Magellan, who on his passage along the coast named many of the more striking features—Gulf of San Matias, Cape of 11,000 Virgins (now simply Cape Virgenes), &c . By 1611 the Patagonian See also:god Setebos (Settaboth in Pigafetta) was See also:familiar to the hearers of the See also:Tempest . Rodrigo de See also:Isla, despatched inland in 1535 from San Matias by Alcazava Sotomayor (on whom western Patagonia had been conferred by the See also:king of See also:Spain), was the first to See also:traverse the great Patagonian plain, and, but for the See also:mutiny of his men, he would have struck across the Andes to the Chilean side . Pedro de See also:Mendoza, on whom the country was next bestowed, lived to found Buenos Aires, but not to carry his explorations to the south . Alonzo de See also:Camargo (1539), Juan Ladrilleros (1557) and Hurtado de Mendoza (1558) helped to make known the western coasts, and See also:Sir See also:Francis See also:Drake's voyage in 1577 down the eastern coast through the strait and northward by Chile and See also:Peru was memorable for several reasons; but the See also:geography of Patagonia owes more to Pedro Sarmiento de Gamboa (1579–1580), who, devoting himself especially to the south-west region, made careful and accurate surveys . The settlement which he founded at Nombre de Dios and San Felipe were neglected by the See also:Spanish government, and the latter was in such a miserable See also:state when See also:Thomas See also:Cavendish visited it in " 1587 that he called it Port See also:Famine . The See also:district in the neighbourhood of Puerto Deseado, explored by See also:John See also:Davis about the same period, was taken See also:possession of by Sir John See also:Narborough in the name of King Charles II. in 1669 .

In the second See also:

half of the 18th See also:century knowledge of Patagonia was augmented by See also:Byron (1764–1765), S . See also:Wallis (1766) and L . A. de See also:Bougainville (1766); Thomas Falkner, a Jesuit who " resided near See also:forty years in those parts," published his Description of Patagonia (See also:Hereford, 1774); See also:Francesco Viedma founded El Carmen, and See also:Antonio advanced inland to the Andes (1782); and Basilio Villarino ascended the Rio Negro (1782) . The "See also:Adventure" and " Beagle " expeditions under See also:Philip King (1826–183o) and See also:Robert Fitzroy (1832–1836) were of first-See also:rate importance, the latter especially from the participation of Charles Darwin; but of the interior of the country nothing was observed except 200 miles of the course of the Santa Cruz . Captain G . C . Musters in 1869 wandered in See also:company with a band of Tehuelches through the whole length of the country from the strait to the Manzaneros in the north-west, and collected a great See also:deal of See also:information about the people and their mode of life . Since that date explorations have been carried on by F . P . Moreno, Ramon Lista, See also:Carlos M . Moyano, A . See also:Bertrand, H .

Steffen, P . See also:

Kruger, R . Hauthal, C . See also:Burckhardt, O . See also:Nordenskiold, J . B . Hatcher, the surveyors of the Argentine and Chilean Boundary Commissions and others . See also:Bibliographical lists for Patagonia are given in J . Wappaus, Handbuch der Geogr. is . Slat. See also:des ehemal. span . Mittel- and Sud-Amerika (See also:Leipzig, 1863–187o) ; in V . G .

Quesada, La Patagonia y las tierras australes del continente americano (Buenos Aires, 1875) ; and in T . Coan, Adventures in Patagonia (New See also:

York, 1880) . See also C . Darwin, See also:Journal of Researches (See also:London, 1845), and Geological Observations on South America (London, 1846); W . See also:Parker Snow, A Two Years' Cruise off . . . Patagonia (London, 1857) ; G . C . Musters, At See also:Home with the Patagonian (London, 1871); R . O . See also:Cunningham, Nat . Hist. of the Strait of Magellan (See also:Edinburgh, 1871) ; F .

P . Moreno, Viaje d la Patagonia austral (Buenos Aires, 1879) ; Rapport preliminaire Neuquen, Chubut, et Rio Negro (La See also:

Plata, 1897); Apuntes preliminares (Buenos Aires, 1897) ; " Explorations in Patagonia ' in See also:Geographical Journal, xiv . (London, 1899) ; and " Patagonia " in the See also:National Geographical See also:Magazine (See also:Washington, 1897); See also:Lady See also:F