See also:

• PERFUMERY (Lat. per, through, and fumare, to smoke)

PERFUMERY (See also:

• LAT

Lat. per, through, and fumare, to See also:

• SMOKE (from O. Eng. smeocan, to smoke, reek, cf. Dutch meek, Ger. Schmauch, probably allied to Gr. vol9caiv)

smoke)  , the preparation of perfumes, or substances which are pleasing to the sense of See also:

• SMELL (connected etymologically with " smoulder " and " smoke ")

smell . Perfumes may be divided into two classes, the first of which includes all See also:

• PRIMITIVE

primitive or See also:

• SIMPLE

simple odoriferous bodies derived from the See also:

• ANIMAL
• ANIMAL (Lat. animalis, from anima, breath, soul)

animal or See also:

• VEGETABLE

vegetable See also:

• KINGDOM

kingdom, as well as the definite chemical compounds specially manufactured, while the second comprises the various " bouquets " or " melanges " made by blending two or more of the foregoing in varying proportions—See also:

• TOILET

toilet powders, dentifrices, sachets, &c . To the former class belong (1) the animal products, See also:

• AMBERGRIS (Ambra grisea, Ambre gris, or grey amber)

ambergris, See also:

• CASTOR

castor, See also:

• CIVET

civet, See also:

• MUSK (Med. Lat. muscus, late Gr. µbvXos, possibly Pers. mushk, from Sansk. mushka, the scrotum)

musk; (2) the essential See also:

• OILS (adopted from the Fr. oile, mod. huile, Lat. oleum, olive oil)

oils (also called attars), mostly procured by the See also:

• DISTILLATION (from the Lat. distillare, more correctly destillare, to drop or trickle down)

distillation of the stems, leaves, See also:

• FLOWERS, ARTIFICIAL

flowers and other parts of See also:

• PLANTS

plants; (3) the philicome butters or oils, which are either solid or liquid fats charged with odours by the processes of inflowering or maceration; (4) the odoriferous See also:

• GUM (Fr. gomme, Lat. gommi, Gr. Kµµ1, possibly a Coptic word; distinguish " gum," the fleshy covering of the base of a tooth, in O. Eng. gbma, palate, cf. Ger. Gaumen, roof of the mouth; the ultimate origin is probably the root gha, to open wide, seen in

gum-resins or balsams which exude naturally or from wounds in the trunks of various trees and shrubs, such as See also:

• BENZOIN

benzoin, opoponax, See also:

• PERU
• PERU (apparently from Biru, a small river on the west coast of Colombia, where Pizarro landed)

Peru, Tolu, storax, See also:

• MYRRH (from the Latinized form myrrha of Gr. µuppa; the Arabic murr, bitter, was applied to the substance from its bitterness)

myrrh; (5) the large number of synthetic perfumes which simulate the odour of the natural scents . The second class contains the endless See also:

• COMBINATION (Lat. combinare, to combine)

combination of tinctures sold under See also:

• FANCY (a shortened form, dating from the 15th century, of " fantasy," which is derived through the O. Fr. fantasie, modern fantaisie. from the Latinized form of the Gr. cbavraoia, Oavrai'ecv, Oat Pais, to show)

fancy names which may or may not afford a See also:

• CLUE

clue to their See also:

• COMPOSITION
• COMPOSITION (Lat. compositio, from componere, to put together)

composition, such as " comedie francaise," "eau de senteur," " eau de See also:

• COLOGNE (Ger. Koln, or officially, since 1900, Coln)

Cologne," " lavendre ambree," " blumengeist." In See also:

• GENERAL
• GENERAL (Lat. generalis, of or relating to a genus, kind or class)

general, they are mixtures of a number of perfumes dissolved in See also:

• ALCOHOL

alcohol . Strictly speaking, most of the perfumes on the See also:

• MARKET (Lat. mercatus, trade or place of trade)

market belong to the second class, since, in most cases, they are prepared by blending various natural or artificial odorous principles . Natural Perfumes.—The animal perfumes are extremely limited in number . Ambergris (q.v.), one of the most important, is secreted by the sperm See also:

• WHALE

whale; musk (q.v.), the best known See also:

• SCENT

scent of this class, is secreted by the male musk-See also:

• DEER (O. E. rigor, dfor, a common Teutonic word, meaning a wild animal, cf. Ger. Tier, Du. dier, &c., probably from a root dhus-, to breathe)
• DEER, CHINESE

deer and other animals—musk-ox, musk-See also:

• RAT (a word common to Teut. and Rom. languages; probably first adopted in Teut.; the ultimate origin is not known; Skeat suggests the root rad-, to scratch; cf. Ger. Ratte, Dan. rotte, Fr. rat, &c.)

rat, &c.; civet (q.v.) is a musky scent named from the animal which secretes it; and castor or castoreum is a somewhat similar secretion of the See also:

• BEAVER
• BEAVER (from Fr. baviere, a child's bib, from bane, saliva)

beaver (q.v.) . More important are the scents yielded by flowering plants . As a general See also:

• RULE

rule fragrant flowers flourish in hot climates, but the more delicate perfumes are yielded by plants having a colder See also:

• HABITAT (a French word derived from habiter, Lat. habitare, to dwell)

habitat; it must be remembered, however, that some costly perfumes are obtained from the plants of See also:

• CEYLON

Ceylon, the See also:

• EAST
• EAST, ALFRED (1849- )

East Indies, See also:

• MEXICO
• MEXICO (Span. Mejico, or Mexico,)
• MEXICO, FEDERAL DISTRICT OF
• MEXICO, GULF OF

Mexico and Peru . In See also:

• EUROPE

Europe, See also:

• GRASSE
• GRASSE, FRANCOIS JOSEPH PAUL, MARQUIS DE GRASSETILLY, COMTE DE (1722-1788)

Grasse, See also:

• CANNES

Cannes and See also:

• NICE

Nice are the centres of the natural perfume See also:

• INDUSTRY (Lat. industria, from indu-, a form of the pre, position in, and either stare, to stand, or struere, to pile up)

industry . Cannes is famous for its See also:

• ROSE
• ROSE (Rosa)
• ROSE, GEORGE (1744-1818)
• ROSE, HUGH JAMES (1795—1838)
• ROSE, WILLIAM STEWART (1775-1843)

rose, See also:

• ACACIA

acacia, See also:

• JASMINE, or JESSAMINE

jasmine and neroli oil; See also:

• NIMES
• NIMES, COUNCILS OF (Concilia Nemausensia)

Nimes for its See also:

• THYME

thyme, See also:

• ROSEMARY

rosemary and See also:

• LAVENDER

lavender; and Nice for its violets . Citron and See also:

• ORANGE
• ORANGE (Citrus Aurantium)
• ORANGE, HOUSE OF

orange oil come from See also:

• SICILY (Ital. Sicilia)

Sicily; See also:

• IRIS

iris and See also:

• BERGAMOT, OIL OF

bergamot from See also:

• ITALY
• ITALY (Italia)

Italy; and See also:

• ROSES, WARS OF THE

roses are extensively cultivated in See also:

• BULGARIA
• BULGARIA, EASTERN

Bulgaria, and in See also:

• EUROPEAN

European See also:

• TURKEY

Turkey .

See also:

• ENGLAND
• ENGLAND, THE CHURCH OF

England is unsurpassed for its lavender and See also:

• PEPPERMINT

peppermint, which flourish at See also:

• MITCHAM

Mitcham and See also:

• HITCHIN

Hitchin . The natural See also:

• SOURCES

sources of the attars or essential oils are the different parts of the plants which yield them—the See also:

• WOOD, ANTHONY A2 (1632-1695)
• WOOD, JOHN GEORGE (1827—1889)
• WOOD, MRS HENRY [ELLEN] (1814—1887)
• WOOD, SEARLES VALENTINE (1798—188o)

wood (lign, See also:

• ALOE

aloe, See also:

• SANTAL (or SONTHAL) PARGANAS, THE

santal, See also:

• CEDAR (Lat. cedrus, Gr. iapos)

cedar), the bark (See also:

• CINNAMON

cinnamon, cascarilla), the leaves (patchouli, See also:

• BAY

bay, thyme), the flowers (rose, lavender, orange-blossom), the See also:

• FRUIT (through the French from the Lat. fructus; frui, to enjoy)

fruit (See also:

• NUTMEG (from " nut," and O. Fr. mugue, musk, Lat. muscus)

nutmeg, citron), or the seeds (See also:

• CARAWAY

caraway, See also:

• ALMOND (from the O. Fr. almande or alemande, late Lat. amandola, derived through a form amingdola from the Gr. l uybian, an almond; the al- for a- is probably due to a confusion with the Arabic article al, the word having first dropped the a- as in the It

almond) . Some plants yield more than one, such as See also:

• LEMON
• LEMON, MARK (1809-1870)

lemon and bergamot . They are mostly obtained by distilling that See also:

• PART

part of the plant in which they are contained with See also:

• WATER

water, or with high-pressure or superheated See also:

• STEAM
• STEAM (0. Eng. steam, vapour, smoke, cf. Du. steam; the origin is unknown)

steam; but some few, as those from the rind of bergamot (from Citrus bergamia), lemon (citron zeste, from C . Limonum), See also:

• LIME
• LIME (O. Eng. lim, Lat. limes, mud, from linere, to smear)

lime (C . Limetta), by " expression." The See also:

• OUTER

outer layer of the cortex is rasped off from the unripe fruits, the raspings placed in a See also:

• CANVAS

canvas bag, and squeezed in a See also:

• SCREW (O.E. scrue, from O. Fr. escroue, mod. ecrou; ultimate origin uncertain; the word, or a similar one, appears in Teutonic languages, cf. Ger. Schraube, Dan. skrue, but Skeat, following Diaz, finds the origin in Lat. scrobs, a ditch, hole, particularl

screw or See also:

• HYDRAULIC

hydraulic See also:

• PRESS (through Fr. presse from Lat. pressare, frequentative of premere, to crush, squeeze, press)

press . The attars so obtained are separated from the admixed water by a tap-See also:

• FUNNEL (through an O. Fr. founil, found in Breton, from Lat. infundibulum, that through which anything is poured, from fundere, to pour)

funnel, and are then filtered . Certain flowers, such as jasmine, See also:

• TUBEROSE

tuberose, See also:

• VIOLET

violet, See also:

• CASSIA (Lat. cassia, Gr. mulct)
• CASSIA, VIA

cassia, either do not yield their attars by distillation at all, or do it so sparingly as not to admit of its collection for commercial purposes; andsometimes the See also:

• ATTAR [or OTTO] OF ROSES (Pers. 'atar, essence)

attar, as in the See also:

• CASE
• CASE, JOHN (d. 1600)

case of orange (neroli), has an odour quite different from that of the fresh blossoms . In these cases the odours are secured by the processes of inflowering (enfleurage) or by maceration . Both depend upon the remark-able See also:

• PROPERTY

property which fats and oils possess of absorbing odours . Enfleurage consists in laying the leaves or flowers on plates covered with a layer of See also:

• FAT (O.E. fdett; the word is common to Teutonic languages, cf. Dutch vet, Ger. Fett, &c., and may be ultimately related to Greek Irian, and =apos, and Sanskrit pivan)

fat . The flowers are renewed every See also:

• MORNING

morning, and when the fat has sufficient odour it is scraped off, melted and strained .

Maceration consists in soaking the flowers in heated fat; in due See also:

• TIME (0. Eng. Lima, cf. Icel. timi, Swed. timme, hour, Dan. time; from the root also seen in " tide," properly the time of between the flow and ebb of the sea, cf. O. Eng. getidan, to happen, " even-tide," &c.; it is not directly related to Lat. tempus)
• TIME, MEASUREMENT OF
• TIME, STANDARD

time they are strained off and replaced by fresh ones, as in the enfleurage See also:

• PROCESS

process . The whole of the necessary meltings and heatings of the perfumed greases are effected by means of water-See also:

• BATHS

baths, whereby the temperature is kept from rising too high . For the manufacture of perfumes for the handkerchief the greases now known as pomades, butters or philocomes are treated with rectified spirit of See also:

• WINE (Lat. vinum, Gr. oivos)

wine 60° over-See also:

• PROOF (in M. Eng. preove, proeve, preve, &°c., from O. Fr . prueve, proeve, &c., mod. preuve, Late. Lat. proba, probate, to prove, to test the goodness of anything, probus, good)

proof, i.e. containing as much as 95% of See also:

• ABSOLUTE (Lat. absolvere, to loose, set free)

absolute alcohol by See also:

• VOLUME

volume, which practically completely abstracts the odour . The gum-resins and resins have been employed as perfumes from the earliest times . The more important are See also:

• INCENSE

incense, See also:

• FRANKINCENSE

frankincense and myrrh (q.v.) . They are largely used in the manufacture of perfumes, both for burning as pastilles, ribbon of See also:

• BRUGES (Flemish Brugge, a name signifying the bridge or place of bridges)

Bruges, incenses, &c., and in tinctures, to which they impart their characteristic odours, affording, at the same time, a certain fixity to other perfumes of a more fleeting nature when mixed with them . Synthetic Perfumes.—Under this heading are included all perfumes in which artificial substances are odorous ingredients . Although the earliest perfumes of this class were introduced in about the See also:

• MIDDLE

middle of the 19th See also:

• CENTURY (from Lat. centuria, a division of a hundred men)

century, the important industry which now prevails is to be regarded as dating from the 'seventies and 'eighties . Three See also:

• MAIN (from the Aryan root which appears in " may " and " might," and Lat. magnus, great)
• MAIN (Lat. Moenus)

main lines of development may be distinguished: (1) the See also:

• CHANCE (through the O. Fr. cheance, from the Late Lat. cadentia, things happening, from cadere, to fall out, happen; cf. " case ")

chance See also:

• DISCOVERY

discovery of substances which have odours similar to natural perfumes; (2) the elucidation of the composition of the natural scents, and the chemical constitution of their ingredients, followed by the synthetic preparation of the substances so determined; and (3), which may be regarded as connected with (2), the extraction and separation of the essential oils yielded by less valuable plants, and their reblending to See also:

• FORM (Lat. forma)

form marketable perfumes . The first synthetic perfume was the " essence of Mirbane " introduced by Collas in about 185o; this substance was the nitro-See also:

• BENZENE, C6H6

benzene discovered by E . See also:

• MITSCHERLICH, EILHARDT (1794–1863)

Mitscherlich in 1834 . Soon after-wards many See also:

• ESTERS

esters of the fatty acids simulating the odours of fruits were introduced; and in 1888 See also:

• BAUR, FERDINAND CHRISTIAN (1792-1860)

Baur discovered the " artificial musks," which are derivatives of s-trinitrobenzene .

The above are instances of the first See also:

• LINE

line of progress . The second line has for See also:

• EARLY
• EARLY, JUBAL ANDERSON (1816-1894)

early examples the cases of artificial oil of See also:

• WINTERGREEN

wintergreen, which followed Cahour's discovery that the natural oil owed its . odour, in the main, to methyl salicylate, and of artificial oil of See also:

• BITTER, KARL THEODORE FRANCIS (1867– )

bitter almonds which followed the preparation of See also:

• BENZALDEHYDE (oil of bitter almonds), C6H5CHO

benzaldehyde from benzal chloride in 1868 . The See also:

• SYNTHESIS (Gr. a6vOeacs, from avvrcBivac, to put together)

synthesis of See also:

• COUMARIN, C9H602

coumarin, the odorous principle of See also:

• HAY
• HAY (a word common in various forms to Teutonic languages; cf. Ger. Heu, Dutch hooi; the root from which it is derived, meaning " to cut," is also seen in " to hew "; cf. " hoe ")
• HAY, GEORGE (1729—1811)
• HAY, GILBERT
• HAY, JOHN (1838–1905)

hay and woodruff, by See also:

• SIR

Sir W . H . See also:

• PERKIN, SIR WILLIAM HENRY (1838-1907)

Perkin in 1868; of vanillin, the odorous principle of See also:

• VANILLA

vanilla, by F . Tiemann and W . Haarman.n in 1875; and of ionone, almost identical with the natural irone, the odorous principle of violets, by Tiemann and P . See also:

• KRUGER, STEPHANUS JOHANNES PAULUS (1825-1904)

Kruger in 1898, are to be regarded as of the highest importance . Equally important are the immense strides made in the elucidation of the constitution and syntheses of the See also:

• TERPENES

terpenes (q.v.), a See also:

• GROUP

group of compounds which are exception-ally abundant as odorous principles in the essential oils . The See also:

• PRESENT

present See also:

• STATE
• STATE, GREAT OFFICERS OF

state of our knowledge does not permit a strict correlation of odour and chemical constitution . One theory regards odour as due to " osmophores," or odour-producing See also:

• GROUPS
• GROUPS, THEORY

groups, in much the same way as See also:

• COLOUR (Lat. color, connected with celare, to hide, the root meaning, therefore, being that of a covering)

colour is associated with chromophores . Such osmophores are hydroxyl (OH), aldehyde (CHO), ketone (CO), See also:

• ETHER, (C2H5)2O

ether (•O•), nitrile (CN), nitro (NO2), &c.; we may also See also:

• NOTICE

notice the isonitrile group (•NG) associated with an unpleasant odour, and the iso-thiocyanate group (•NCS) to which the See also:

• MUSTARD

mustard oils owe their characteristic smell .

The same group, however, is not invariably associated with the same odour, or even any odour at all, as, for instance, in such closely related compounds as the members of a homologous See also:

• SERIES (a Latin word from serere, to join)

series . For n-Octyl acetate, See also:

• C8H

C8H,7.O2C•See also:

• CH3

CH3, has the odour of oranges . Isoamyl example, the See also:

• LOWER

lower fatty See also:

• ALDEHYDES

aldehydes have unpleasant odours, those with ten See also:

• CARBON (symbol C, atomic weight 12)

carbon atoms (and also See also:

• DOUBLE
• DOUBLE (from the Mid. Eng. duble, the form which gives the present pronunciation, through the Old Er. duble, from Lat. duplus, twice as much)

double linkages, which in itself may affect odour) form some of the most delicate scents, while the higher members are odourless . The See also:

• ABSENCE (Lat. absentia)

absence of odour in the higher members may be possibly associated with the See also:

• LOW, SETH (1850- )
• LOW, WILL HICOK (1853- )

low volatility exhibited by compounds of high molecular See also:

• WEIGHT

weight . Certain osmophores have practically equal effects; for example, benzaldehyde, See also:

• NITROBENZENE, C6H6NO2

nitrobenzene, benzonitrile, and phenyl See also:

• AZOIMIDE

azoimide have practically identical odours, and among the " artificial musks," a nitro group may be replaced by the azoimido group without the odour being modified . As a general rule, homologues have similar odours, but many exceptions are known . For example the methyl and See also:

• ETHYL

ethyl See also:

• ETHERS

ethers of [3-naphthol have the odour of neroli; on the other See also:

• HAND
• HAND (a word common to Teutonic languages; cf. Ger. Hand, Goth. handus)
• HAND, FERDINAND GOTTHELF (1786-185r)

hand, of the esters of anthranilic See also:

• ACID (from the Lat. root ac-, sharp; acere, to be sour)

acid, the methyl has the odour of orange blossoms, the ethyl has a slight odour, and the isobutyl is odourless . The introduction of a methyl group into the benzene See also:

• RING (O.E. hring; a word common to Teutonic languages; and probably cognate with the Lat. circus, Gr. KtpKOS or KpLKOS, Skt'. chakra, wheel, circle, cf. also " harangue "); in art, a band of circular shape of varying sizes, made of any material and used f

ring generally involves little or no See also:

• CHANGE (derived through the Fr. from the Late Lat. cambium, cambiare, to barter; the ultimate derivation is probably from the root which appears in the Gr. «a urmu', to bend)

change in odour; but when it (and more especially higher alkyl radicals) is introduced into See also:

• SIDE
• SIDE (mod. Eski Adalia)

side chains the odour may be entirely changed . For example, benzene and its homologues have similar odours; phthalide is odourless, but the isopropyl and butyl phthalides, in which substitution occurs in the side See also:

• CHAIN (through the O. Fr. citable, chcene, &c., from Lat. catena)

chain, smell of See also:

• CELERY (Apium graveolens)

celery . Especially characteristic are the derivatives of phenylacetylene . This See also:

• HYDROCARBON

hydrocarbon is distinctly unpleasant; on the other hand, See also:

• PARA
• PARA (officially BELEM; sometimes BELEM DO PARA)

para-ethyl and paramethyl phenylacetylene smell of See also:

• ANISE (Pimpinella Anisum)

anise . While the triply-linked carbon See also:

• SYSTEM

system is generally associated with strong and unpleasant odours, the doubly linked system gives pleasant ones .

Thus the unpleasant phenylacetylene, See also:

• C6H5

C6H5•C:CH, is contrasted with See also:

• STYROLENE, C6H5

styrolene, C6H5.CH:See also:

• CH2
• CH2(OH)

CH2, which occurs in storax, and phenylpropiolic aldehyde with cinnamic aldehyde, C6H5•CH:CH•CHO, which occurs in cassia and cinnamon . The reduction of a double to a single linkage may not destroy odour . Thus hydrocinnamic aldehyde, the reduction product of cinnamic aldehyde, smells of jasmine and See also:

• LILAC

lilac, and melilotin, which occurs in yellow melilot (Melilotus officinalis), has the same odour (woodruff) as its oxidation product coumarin . The See also:

• ORIENTATION

orientation of the substituent groups in the benzene See also:

• NUCLEUS (Lat. for the kernal of a nut, nux, the stone of fruit)

nucleus also affects odour . In general, the See also:

• META

meta compounds are odourless, while the ortho and para may have odour . Thus p-methoxyacetophenone has a pleasant odour, the meta See also:

• COMPOUND
• COMPOUND (from Lat. componere, to combine or put together)

compound is odourless, o-aminoacetophenone, o-aminobenzaldehyde, and o-nitrophenol have strong odours, while the meta and para bodies are odourless . Of the three trinitrobenzenes only the symmetrical form gives origin to perfumes . The concentration and even the solvent has considerable effect on the odour of a substance . Many of the artificial principles—vanillin, heliotropine, ionone, &c.—have very different odours in strong and in dilute See also:

• SOLUTION (from Lat. solvere, to loosen, dissolve)

solution; phenyl acetic acid and /3-naphthylamine are odourless when solid, but have disagreeable odours when dissolved . Traces of impurities often have the effect of making odourless or pleasant- smelling compounds quite intolerable . See also:

• ACETYLENE

Acetylene as generated from See also:

• CALCIUM [symbol Ca, atomic weight 40.0 (o= x6)]

calcium See also:

• CARBIDE

carbide, and carbon disulphide prepared from its elements are quite intolerable, though when pure they are, at least, not unpleasant; artificial benzaldehyde must be very care-fully purified before it can be used in the preparation of the more delicate scents . In all cases the natural scents are complex mixtures of many ingredients, and a variation in the amount of any one may completely alter the scent .

Such mixtures would be difficult to reproduce economically; the perfumer is content with a product having practically an identical odour, with or without the natural substance which it is designed to compete with . We now give an See also:

• ACCOUNT
• ACCOUNT (through O. Fr. acont, Late Lat. comptum, cornputare, to calculate)

account of the artificial scents, principally arranged according to their chemical relations . The fatty esters are interesting as providing many of the fruit essences; in fact, by appropriate blending, any fruit odour can be reproduced . Their use, however, is inhibited by the fact that they irritate the See also:

• RESPIRATORY

respiratory See also:

• ORGANS

organs, producing coughing and headaches . Isobutyl carbinol acetic ester (amyl acetate), %CH3)2•CH•CH2•CH2.00•CH3, forms when in dilute alcoholic solution the artificial See also:

• PEAR (Pyrus communis)

pear oil; a similar odour is possessed by isoatnyl-n-butyrate, C3H,•See also:

• CO2

CO2•C,Hn . propionate, C,Hu.O2C•C2H5, and ethyl-n-butyrate, C3H,•O2C•C2H5, have the odour of pineapple, the latter constituting the artificial pineapple oil of See also:

• COMMERCE
• COMMERCE (Lat. commercium, from, cum, together, and rnerx, merchandise)

commerce . Isoamyl isovalerate, C5H,1.O2C•C4H9, is the artificial See also:

• APPLE (a common Teut. word, A.S. aepl, aeppel, O.H.G. aphul, aphal, apfal, mod. Ger. Apfel)

apple oil . Of the fatty See also:

• KETONES

ketones, methyl nonyl ketone, CH3•CO•C,H19i which is the scent of oil of See also:

• RUE (Fr. rue, Lat. ruta, from Gr. pur)

rue, and methyl-ethyl See also:

• ACETONE, or DIMETHYL KETONE

acetone, CH3.CO.CH(CH3) (C2H5), which has the odour of peppermint, receive commercial application . Of exceptional importance in the See also:

• CHEMISTRY
• CHEMISTRY (formerly "chymistry"; Gr. xvµela; for derivation see ALCHEMY)

chemistry of perfumes are the unsaturated open chain compounds containing at least eight carbon atoms . These are chemically considered, along with the related cyclic compounds, in the See also:

• ARTICLE (from Lat. articulus, a joint)

article TERPENES; here we notice their odours and occurrence in perfumes . Of the See also:

• ALCOHOLS
• ALCOHOLS, ALDEHYDES AND
• ALCOHOLS, BENZYL ALCOHOL, BUTYL ALCOHOLS, METHYL ALCOHOL

alcohols, l-linalol occurs in oil of lavender, bergamot, limet and origanum; d-linalol in See also:

• CORIANDER

coriander; citronellol and geraniol in rose, See also:

• GERANIUM

geranium and pelargonium oils . Of the aldehydes, citral or geranial has the odour of lemons; citronellal is the See also:

• CHIEF (from Fr. chef, head, Lat. caput)

chief constituent of citronella oil .

By condensing citral with acetone and treating the product with dilute sulphuric acid, the valuable violet substitute ionone results . This substance is a hydroaromatic ketone, and closely resembles the natural principle irone . By successive treatment with acetic anhydride (to form isopulegol, oxidation to isopulegone, and treatment with baryta citronellal yields the cyclic compound pulegone, the chief constituent of oil of See also:

• PENNYROYAL

pennyroyal . The olefinic terpenes are generally convertible into methyl heptenone, (CH3)2C:CH(CH2)2•CO•CH3, which has been synthesized from See also:

• SODIUM [symbol Na, from Lat. natrium; atomic weight 23.00 (0=16)]

sodium acetonylacetone and amylene dibromide; this ketone occurs in several essential oils, and has the odour of rue . For the occurrence of cyclic terpenes in the essential oils reference should be made to the table below, which contains the names, sources and chief ingredients of the more important essential oils.' The terpenes are printed in italics, the aliphatic and benzenoid compounds in See also:

• ORDINARY (med. Lat. ordinarius, Fr. ordinaire)

ordinary type . Name of Oil . Source . Constituents . Anise . . Pimpinella anisum Anethole, estragole . Bay . . .

Pimenta acris See also:

• EUGENOL (allyl guaiacol, eugenic acid), C10H1202

Eugenol, methyl eugenol, Bergamot . Citrus bergamia chavicol, estragole,myrcene, Cajaput . . Melaleuca, sp. phellandrene . Cassia . . Cinnamonum cassia Linalol, linalyl acetate, d- Caraway . Carum carvi limonene, bergaptene . Camphor . Cinnamonum camphor Cineol . See also:

• CHAMOMILE, or CAMOMILE FLOWERS

Chamomile . Anthemis See also:

• NOB

nob ills Cinnamic aldehyde, cinnamyl Cinnamon . Cinnamonum Zeylani- acetate . Clove . cum Carvone, d-limonene .

Coriander . Eugenia caryophyllata d-Pinene, phellandrene, terpi- See also:

• CUMIN, or C UUMIN (Cuminum Cyminum)

Cumin . . Coriandum sativum neol, eugenol, safrole . See also:

• EUCALYPTUS

Eucalyptus . Cuminum cymium Isobutyl and isoamyl esters See also:

• FENNEL

Fennel . . Eucalyptus globulus of angelic and tiglic acids . Geranium . Foeniculum vulgare Cinnamic aldehyde . Jasmine . . Andropogon schoen- Eugenol . Lavender . See also:

• ANT
• ANT (O. Eng. aemete, from Teutonic a, privative, and maitan, cut or bite off, i.e. " the biter off "; aemete in Middle English became differentiated in dialect use to (mete, then amte, and so ant, and also to emete, whence the synonym " emmet," now only u

ant has Linalol . Lemon .

. Jasminum grandi- Cumic aldehyde, cymene . Lemon-grass See also:

• FORUM (Lat. from foris, " out of doors ")

forum Cineol, d-pinene, and fatty Neroli . . Lavendula See also:

• VERA, AUGUSTO (1813-1885)

vera aldehydes . Orange . . Citrus limonum Anethole, fenchone, d-pinene . Peppermint . Andropogon citratus Geraniol, citronellol . See also:

• PINE (Lat. Pinus, Gr. srlrur)

Pine-See also:

• NEEDLE (O. Eng. ncedl; the word appears in various forms in Teutonic languages, Ger. Nadel, Dutch naal, the root being ne-, to sew, cf. Ger. nahen, and probably Lat. nere, to spin, Gr. vi)ats, spinning)

needle . Citrus bigardia Methyl anthranilate, indol, Rose . . . Citrus aurantium benzyl alcohol, benzyl See also:

• ACE (derived through the Lat. as, from the Tarentine form of the Gr. etc)

ace- Rose . . Mentha piperita See also:

• TATE, JAMES (1771-1843)
• TATE, NAHUM (1652-1715)
• TATE, RALPH (1840-1901)
• TATE, SIR HENRY, BART

tate, linalol, linalyl acetate .

Geranium . Finns sylvestris Linalol, 1-linalyl acetate . Rosemary . See also:

• ROSA, CARL AUGUST NICHOLAS (1843-1889)
• ROSA, MONTE
• ROSA, SALVATOR (1615-1673)

Rosa damascena Limonene, phellandrene, citral, See also:

• SAGE, RUSSELL (1816-1906)

Sage . . . Pelargonium odoratis citronellal, geranyl acetate, Sassafras . semum linalol . Spearmint . Rosamarinus officina- Citral . See also:

• STAR

Star anise . lis 1-Linalol, geraniol, limonene, Tansy . . See also:

• SALVIA

Salvia offcinalis methyl anthranilate . Thyme . . Sassafras officinalis d-Limonene .

See also:

• WORMWOOD

Wormwood . Mentha viridis Menthol, menthyl acetate and Ylang-ylang Illicium anisatum valerate . Tanacetum vulgare d-Pinene, d-sylvestrene . Thymus vulgaris Geraniol, I-citronellol . See also:

• ARTEMISIA
• ARTEMISIA (159o-1642)

Artemisia absinthum Geraniol, citronellol . Cananga odorata Pinene, camphene, camphor, cineol, borneol . Pinene,cineol,thujone,borneol . Safrole . 1-Linalol, 1-carvone . Anethole . Thujone . See also:

• THYMOL, C

Thymol .

} Thujone and thujyl esters . 1-Linalol, geraniol . ' See J . B . See also:

• COHEN (Hebrew for " priest ")

Cohen, Organic Chemistry, p . 532 ; or J . See also:

• PARRY (from Fr. parer, to ward off)
• PARRY, SIR CHARLES HUBERT HASTINGS, BART
• PARRY, SIR WILLIAM EDWARD (179o–1855)

Parry, Chemistry of Perfumes (1908) . The chief benzenoid compounds used as perfumes are aldehydes, oxyaldehydes, phenols and phenol ethers . Benzaldehyde has the odour of almonds, cinnamic aldehyde of cinnamon, and cumin aldehyde gives the odour to cumin oil . Of oxyaldehydes salicylaldehyde gives the odour to spiraea oil, and vanillin is the active ingredient of vanilla (q.v.) . Anisaldehyde smells like See also:

• HAWTHORN
• HAWTHORN (O. Eng. Naga-, hog-, or hege-thorn, i.e. " hedge-thorn ")

hawthorn, and is extensively used under the name aubepine for scenting soaps and extracts . See also:

• CARVACROL, or CYMOPHENOL

Carvacrol and thymol are isomeric methyl propyl phenols; both have the odour of thyme .

Of phenol ethers eugenol (ally! guaiacol) has the odour of See also:

• CLOVES

cloves, and anethole (allyl phenyl methyl ether) is the chief constituent of anise oil, being chiefly used in the manufacture of See also:

• LIQUEURS

liqueurs . Several piperonyl compounds are of commercial importance . The aldehyde, CH2[O]2:C6H3•CHO(1,2'4), See also:

• PIPERONAL (heliotropine, protocatechuic aldehyde methylene ether), C8H6O3

piperonal, has the odour of See also:

• HELIOTROPE
• HELIOTROPE, or TURNSOLE

heliotrope; an allyl derivative, safrole CH2[O]2:C6H3•See also:

• C3H6(C16H3102)

C3H6(I,2,4), occurs in sassafras, while apiole or dimethoxy saf role has the odour of See also:

• PARSLEY

parsley oil . Of other synthetic perfumes amyl salicylate is used under the names of orchidee or trefol as the basis of many perfumes, in particular of See also:

• CLOVER

clover scents; methyl anthranilate occurs in the natural neroli and other oils, and has come into considerable use in the preparation of artificial bergamot, neroli, jasmine and other perfumes (the Trolene, Marceol and Amanthol of the Actien Gesellschaft See also:

• FUR (connected with O. Fr. forre, a sheath or case; so " an outer covering ")

fur Anilin Fabrikation have this substance as a See also:

• BASE

base) ; the " artificial musks " are derivatives of s-trinitrobenzene; coumarin is the principle of wood-See also:

• RUFF

ruff ; and S-naphthol methyl ether is used for the preparation of artificial neroli . The Odophone.—The most important See also:

• ELEMENT (Lat. elementum)

element in the perfumer's See also:

• ART

art is the blending of the odorous principles to form a mixture which gratifies the sense of smell . Experience is the only See also:

• GUIDE (in Mid. Eng. gyde, from the Fr. guide; the earlier French form was guie, English " guy," the d was due to the Italian form guida; the ultimate origin is probably Teutonic, the word being connected with the base seen in O. Eng. witan, to know)

guide . It is impossible to foretell the odour of a mixture from the odours of its components . Septimus Piesse endeavoured to show that a certain See also:

• SCALE
• SCALE (1) A

scale or See also:

• GAMUT (from the Greek letter gamma, used as a musical symbol, and ut, the first syllable of the medieval hymn Sanctus Johannes)

gamut existed amongst odours as amongst sounds, taking the See also:

• SHARP, GRANVILLE (1735-1813)
• SHARP, JAMES (1618-1679)
• SHARP, JOHN (1645-1714)
• SHARP, RICHARD (1759-1835)
• SHARP, WILLIAM (1749-1824)
• SHARP, WILLIAM (1856-1905)

sharp smells to correspond with high notes and the heavy smells with low . He illustrated the See also:

• IDEA (Gr. Ibia, connected with i&eiv, to see; cf. Lat. species from specere, to look at)

idea by classifying some fifty odours in this manner, making each to correspond with a certain See also:

• NOTE
• NOTE (Lat. nota, mark, sign, from noscere, to know)

note, one-See also:

• HALF

half in each clef, and extending above and below the lines . For example, See also:

• TREBLE (a doublet of " triple," three-fold, from Lat. triplus, triple; cf. " double " from duplus)

treble clef note E (4th space) corresponds with See also:

• PORTUGAL

Portugal (orange), note D (1st space below clef) with violet, note F (4th space above clef) with ambergris . It is readily noticed in practice that ambergris is much sharper in smell (higher) than violet, while Portugal is intermediate . He asserted that properly to constitute a bouquet the odours to be taken should correspond in the gamut like the notes of a musical chord—one false note among the odours as among the See also:

• MUSIC

music destroying the See also:

• HARMONY (Gr. dpµovia, a concord of musical sounds, dpA'ew to join; &plan midi (sc. TeXvil)

harmony .

Thus on his odophone, santal, geranium, acacia, orange-See also:

• FLOWER (Lat. flos, floris; Fr. fleur)
• FLOWER, SIB

flower, camphor, corresponding with C (See also:

• BASS
• BASS (the same word as " base," and so pronounced, but influenced in spelling by the Ital. basso)

bass 2nd line below), C (bass and space), E (treble 1st line), G (treble 2nd line), C (treble 3rd space), constitute the bouquet of chord C . Other Branches of See also:

• PERFUMERY (Lat. per, through, and fumare, to smoke)

Perfumery.—As a natural outcome of the development of the perfume industry, scented articles for toilet and other uses are now manufactured in large quantities . Soaps, toilet powders, tooth powders, See also:

• HAIR (a word common to Teutonic languages)

hair-washes, cosmetics generally, and note-See also:

• PAPER
• PAPER (Fr. papier, from Lat. papyrus)

paper have provided material on which the perfumer See also:

• WORKS

works . For the preparation of scented soaps two methods are in use; both start with a basis either of See also:

• FINE

fine yellow See also:

• SOAP

soap (which owes its odour and colour to the presence of See also:

• RESIN (through O.Fr. resine, modern reline, from Lat. resina, prcbably Latinized from Greek Pirivrt, resin)

resin), or of curd soap (which is hard, See also:

• WHITE
• WHITE, ANDREW DICKSON (1832– )
• WHITE, GILBERT (1720–1793)
• WHITE, HENRY KIRKE (1785-1806)
• WHITE, HUGH LAWSON (1773-1840)
• WHITE, JOSEPH BLANCO (1775-1841)
• WHITE, RICHARD GRANT (1822-1885)
• WHITE, ROBERT (1645-1704)
• WHITE, SIR GEORGE STUART (1835– )
• WHITE, SIR THOMAS (1492-1567)
• WHITE, SIR WILLIAM ARTHUR (1824--1891)
• WHITE, SIR WILLIAM HENRY (1845– )
• WHITE, THOMAS (1628-1698)
• WHITE, THOMAS (c. 1550-1624)

white and odourless, and is prepared without resin) . In one process the soap is melted by superheated steam, and while still hot and semi-fluid mixed by means of a stirrer of wood with See also:

• IRON [symbol Fe, atomic weight 55.85 (0=16)]

iron See also:

• CROSS

cross-See also:

• BAR
• BAR (0. Fr. barre, Late Lat. barra, origin unknown)
• BAR, CONFEDERATION OF
• BAR, FRANCOIS DE (1538-1606)
• BAR, THE

bar, technically called a " crutch," with the attars and colouring See also:

• MATTER

matter . It is then removed from the melting See also:

• PAN (" pasturer ")
• PAN (common in various forms to many Teutonic languages, cf. Ger. Pfanne; it is generally taken to be an early adaptation in a shortened form of Lat. patina, shallow bowl or dish, from patere, to lie open)

pan to a rectangular iron See also:

• MOULD

mould or See also:

• BOX
• BOX (Gr. irl or, Lat. buxus, box-wood; cf. 2r6Eir, a pyx)

box, the sides of which can be removed by unscrewing the tie-rods which hold them in position; when See also:

• COLD (in O. Eng. cald and ceald, a word coming ultimately from a root cognate with the Lat. gelu, gelidus, and common in the Teutonic languages, which usually have two distinct forms for the substantive and the adjective, cf. Ger. Kolte, kalt, Dutch koude

cold the See also:

• MASS (O.E. maesse; Fr. messe; Ger. Messe; Ital. messa; from eccl. Lat. missa)
• MASS, IN

mass is cut irto slabs and bars with a thin See also:

• BRASS
• BRASS (O. Eng. braes)

brass See also:

• WIRE (A.S. wir, a wire; cf. Swed. vire, to twist, M.H.G. wiere, a gold ornament, Lat. viriae, armlets, ultimately from the root wi, to twist, bind)

wire . In the other or cold process the soap is first cut into chips or shavings by a See also:

• PLANE

plane or " chipping See also:

• MACHINE
• MACHINE (through Fr. from Lat. form machina of Gr. µnxavil)

machine," then the colouring matters are added and thoroughly incorporated by passing the soap between rollers; the tinted soap emerges in a continuous See also:

• SHEET

sheet but little thicker than paper . The perfumes are then added, and after See also:

• STANDING

standing for about twelve See also:

• HOURS, CANONICAL

hours the soap is again sent through the See also:

• ROLLING

rolling machine . It is next transferred to a bar-forming machine, from which it emerges as a continuous bar almost as hard as wood . Soap thus worked contains less than to% of water; that prepared by melting contains 20 and even 30% . The amount of perfume added depends upon its nature, and amounts usually to about 7 or 8 % . The,' finest soaps are always manufactured by the cold process .

Toilet Powders are of various sorts . They consist of See also:

• RICE (Greek 6p6 a, Latin oryza, French riz, Italian riso, Spanish arroz, derived from the Arabic)
• RICE, EDMUND IGNATIUS (1762-1844)
• RICE, JAMES (1843-1882)

rice-See also:

• STARCH

starch or See also:

• WHEAT
• WHEAT (Triticum)

wheat-starch, with powdered orris-See also:

• ROOT (late O.E. rot, adopted from Scand., cf. Norw. and Swed. rot, Dan. rod; the true O.E. word was wyrt, plant, represented in Ger. Wurz or Wurzel; the ultimate root is the same in both words, and is seen in Lat. radix)
• ROOT, ELIHU (1845– )

root in varying proportions, and with or without the addition of See also:

• ZINC

zinc See also:

• OXIDE

oxide, See also:

• BISMUTH

bismuth oxide or See also:

• FRENCH
• FRENCH, DANIEL CHESTER (1850– )
• FRENCH, NICHOLAS (1604-1678)

French See also:

• CHALK

chalk . The constituent powders, after the addition of the perfume, are thoroughly incorporated and mixed by sifting through a fine See also:

• SIEVE (O.E. sife, older sibi, cf. Dutch zeef, Ger. Sieb; from the subst. comes O.E. siftan, to sift)

sieve . Violet See also:

• POWDER (through O. Fr. puldre, modern poudre, from Lat. pulvis, pulveris, dust)

powder for the nursery should consist entirely of powdered violet root (Iris florentine), from the odour of which the powder is named . It is of a yellowish tint, soft and pleasant to the See also:

• TOUCH (derived through Fr. toucher from a common Teutonic and Indo-Germanic root, cf. " tug," " tuck," O. H. Ger. zucchen, to twitch or draw)

touch . The white See also:

• COMMON

common so-called " violet powders " consist of starch scented with bergamot, and are in every sense inferior . Tooth Powders consist for the most part of mixtures of powdered orris-root with precipitated chalk, and some other constituent destined to particularize it as to properties or flavour, such ascharcoal, finely pulverized See also:

• PUMICE (Lat. purnex, spumex, spuma, froth)

pumice, See also:

• QUASSIA

quassia, See also:

• SUGAR

sugar, camphor, &c . The perfume of the contained orris-root is modified, if required, by the addition of a little of some perfume . Tooth Pastes are formed of the same constituents as the powders, and are worked into a See also:

• PASTE (O. Fr. paste, modern pate, Late Lat. pasta, whence also in Span., Port. and Ital., from Gr. 1r&vrrl or 1raara, barley porridge, or salted pottage, ir&ao'ety, to sprinkle with salt)

paste by the addition of a little See also:

• HONEY (Chin. me ; Sansk. madhu, mead, honey; cf. A.S. medo, medu, mead; Gr. p Xt, in which 0 or b is changed into X; Lat. mel ; Fr. miel ; A.S. hung ; Ger. Honig)

honey or See also:

• GLUCOSE (from Gr. - twais, sweet)

glucose See also:

• SYRUP (0. Fr. ysserop, mod. sirop, Span. xarope, for axarope, Arab. al, the, and sharab, drink; cf. Sherbet " and " Shrub ")

syrup, which sub-stances are usually believed ultimately to have an injurious effect on the See also:

• TEETH (O.E. Eel); plural of tooth, O.E. top)

teeth . Perfume Sachets consist either of a powder composed of a mixture of vanilla, musk, Tonclua beans, &c., one or other predominating as required, contained in an ornamental See also:

• SILK

silk See also:

• SAC

sac; or of some of the foregoing substances spread upon card or See also:

• CHAMOIS

chamois See also:

• LEATHER (a word which appears in all Teutonic languages; cf. Ger. Leder, Dutch leer or leder, Swed. leder, and in such Celtic forms as Welsh llader)
• LEATHER, ARTIFICIAL

leather or See also:

• FLANNEL

flannel after being made into a paste with See also:

• MUCILAGE (from Late Lat. mucilago, a mouldy juice, from mucere, to be mouldy)

mucilage and a little See also:

• GLYCERIN, GLYCERINE

glycerin . When dry the card so prepared is daintily covered with various parti-coloured silks for See also:

• SALE
• SALE, GEORGE (c. 1697-1736)
• SALE, SIR ROBERT HENRY (1782—1845)

sale . Where the ingredients employed in their manufacture are of See also:

• GOOD, JOHN MASON (1764-1827)

good quality these See also:

• CARDS, PLAYING

cards, known as " peau d'Espagne " sachets, retain their odour unimpaired for years .

Adulterations.—T here is, as might be expected, considerable See also:

• SCOPE (through Ital. scopo, aim, purpose, intent, from Gr. o'KOaos, mark to shoot at, aim, o ic07reiv, to see, whence the termination in telescope, microscope, &c.)

scope for the See also:

• ADULTERATION
• ADULTERATION (from Lat. adulterare, to defile or falsify)

adulteration of the " matieres premieres " employed in perfumery . Thus, in the case of musk, the " pods " are frequently found to be partially emptied of the See also:

• GRAIN (derived through the French from Lat. granum, seed, from an Aryan root meaning " to wear down," which also appears in the common Teutonic word " corn ")

grain, which has been replaced by hide or skin, while the weight has been increased by the introduction of See also:

• LEAD
• LEAD (pronounced iced)

lead, &c . In other instances the See also:

• FRAUD (Lat. fraus, deceit)

fraud consists in the admixture of refuse grain, from which the odour has been exhausted with spirit, with dried See also:

• BLOOD

blood, and similar substances, whilst pungency is secured by the addition of ammonium carbonate . Attar of rose is diluted with attar of See also:

• PALMA, JACOPO (c. 1480-1528)
• PALMA, or PALMA DE MALLORCA
• PALMA, or SAN MIGUEL DE LA PALMA

Palma rosa, a variety of geranium of only a See also:

• QUARTER (through Fr. from Lat. quartarius, fourth part)

quarter or a fifth of the value . The main adulterant of all the natural essential oils, however, is castor oil . This is a bland neutral See also:

• BODY

body, practically odourless, and completely soluble in alcohol; it therefore presents all the requisites for the purpose .