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PORTUGUESE EAST AFRICA, or MOZAMBIQUE

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Originally appearing in Volume V22, Page 168 of the 1911 Encyclopedia Britannica.
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PORTUGUESE See also:

EAST See also:AFRICA, or See also:MOZAMBIQUE  . This Portuguese See also:possession, bounded E. by the See also:Indian Ocean, N. by See also:German See also:East See also:Africa, W. by the Nyasaland See also:Protectorate, See also:Rhodesia and the See also:Transvaal, S. by Tongaland (See also:Natal), has an See also:area of 293,500 sq. m . It is divided in two by the See also:river See also:Zambezi . The See also:northern portion, between the ocean and See also:Lake See also:Nyasa and the See also:Shire river, is a compact See also:block of territory, squarish in shape, being about 400 m. See also:long by 36o m. broad . See also:South of the Zambezi the See also:province consists of a See also:strip of See also:land along the See also:coast varying from 5o to 200 m. in See also:depth . Along the Zambezi itself Portuguese territory extends See also:west as far as the Loangwa confluence, some 600 m. by river . See also:Physical Features.—The coast-See also:line extends from 26° 52' S. to 10° 4o' S., and from south to See also:north makes a See also:double See also:curve with a See also:general trend outward, i.e. to the east . It has a length of 1430 M . Some 40 M. north of the Natal (Tongoland) frontier is the deep indentation of Delagoa See also:Bay (q.v.) . The land then turns outward to Cape See also:Corrientes, a little north of which is See also:Inhambane Bay . Bending westward again and passing several small islands, of which the See also:chief is Bazaruto, See also:Sofala Bay is reached . Northward the Zambezi with a wide See also:delta pours its See also:waters into the ocean .

From this point onward the coast is studded with small islands, mainly of See also:

coral formation . On one of these islands is See also:Mozambique, and immediately north of that See also:port is Conducia Bay . Somewhat farther north are two large bays—Fernao Veloso and Memba . There is a See also:great difference in the See also:character of the coast north and south of Mozambique . To the north the coast is much indented, abounds in rocky headlands and rugged cliffs while, as already stated, there is an almost continuous fringe of islands . South of Mozambique the coast-line is See also:low, sandy and lined with See also:mangrove swamps . Harbours are few and poor . The difference in character of these two regions arises from the fact that in the northern See also:half the ocean current which flows south between See also:Madagascar and the mainland is See also:close to the coast, and scours out all the softer material, while at the same See also:time the coral animalcules are See also:building in deep waters . But south of Mozambique the ocean current forsakes the coast, allowing the See also:accumulation of See also:sand and alluvial See also:matter . North of Fernao Veloso and Memba the largest bays are See also:Pemba (where there is commodious anchorage for heavy See also:draught vessels), Montepuesi and Tunghi, the last named having for its northern See also:arm Cape Delgado, the limit of Portuguese territory . Orographically the backbone of the province is the See also:mountain See also:chain which forms the eastern escarpment of the See also:continental See also:plateau . It does not See also:present a uniformly abrupt descent to the plains, but in places—as in the See also:lower Zambezi See also:district—slopes gradually to the coast .

The Lebombo Mountains, behind Delagoa Bay, nowhere exceed 2070 ft. in height; the Manica plateau, farther north, is higher . Mt Doe rises to 7875 ft. and Mt Panga to 7610 ft . The Gorongoza See also:

massif with Mt Miranga (6550 ft.), Enhatete (6050 ft.), and Gogogo (5900 ft.) lies north-east of the Manica plateau, and is, like it, of granitic formation . Gorongoza, rising isolated with precipitous See also:outer slopes, has been likened in its aspect to a frowning citadel . The chief mountain range, however, lies north of the Zambezi, and east of Lake See also:Chilwa, namely, the Namuli Mountains, in which Namuli See also:Peak rises to 886o ft., and Molisani, Mruli and Mresi attain altitudes of 6500 to 8000 ft . These mountains are covered with magnificent forests . Farther north the river basins are divided by well-marked ranges with heights of 3000 ft. and over . Near the south-east See also:shore of Nyasa there is a high range (5000 to 6000 ft.) with an abrupt descent to the lake—some 3000 ft. in six See also:miles . The See also:country between Nyasa and See also:Ibo is remarkable for the number of fantastically shaped See also:granite peaks which rise from the plateau . The plateau lands west of the escarpment are of moderate See also:elevation—perhaps averaging 2000 to 2500 ft . It is, however, only along the Zambezi and north of that river that Portuguese territory reaches to the continental plateau . Besides the Zambezi (q.v.) the most considerable river in Portuguese East Africa is the See also:Limpopo (q.v.) which enters the Indian Ocean about too m. north of Delagoa Bay .

The See also:

Komati (q.v.), Sabi, Busi and Pungwe south of the Zambezi; the Lukugu, Lurio, Montepuesi (Mtepwesi) and Msalu, with the See also:Rovuma (q.v.) and its affluent the Lujenda, to the north of it, are the other See also:rivers of the province with considerable drainage areas . The Sabi rises in Mashonaland at an See also:altitude of over 3000 ft., and after flowing south for over 200 m. turns east and pierces the mountains some 170 M. from the coast, being joined near the Anglo-Portuguese frontier by the Lundi . Cataracts entirely prevent See also:navigation above this. point . Below the Lundi confluence the See also:bed of the Sabi becomes considerably broader, varying from half a mile to two miles . In the. See also:rainy See also:season the Sabi is a large stream and even in the " dries " it can be navigated from its mouth by shallow draught steamers for over 15o m . Its general direction through Portuguese territory is east by north . At its mouth it forms a delta 6o m. in extent . The Busi (220 m.) and Pungwe (180 m.) are streatns north of and similar in character to the Sabi . They both rise in the Manica plateau and enter the ocean in Pungwe Bay, their mouths but a mile or two apart . The lower reaches of both streams are navigable, the Busi for 25 m., the Pungwe for about too m . At the mouth of the Pungwe is the port of See also:Beira . Of the north-Zambezi streams the Lukugu, rising in the hills south-east of Lake Chilwa, flows south and enters the ocean not far north of See also:Quilimane .

The Lurio, rising in the Namuli Mountains, flows north-east, having a course of some 200 m . The Montepuesi and the Msalu drain the country between the Lurio and Rovuma basins . Their See also:

banks are in general well defined and the wet season rise seems fairly See also:constant . See also:Geology.—The central plateau consists of gneisses, granites and See also:schists of the usual East See also:African type which in See also:part or in whole are to be referred to the Archaean See also:system . The next See also:oldest rocks belong to the See also:Karroo See also:period . Their See also:principal occurrence is in the Zambezi See also:basin, where at Tete they contain workable seams of See also:coal, and have yielded plant remains indicating a Lower Karroo or Upper Carboniferous See also:age . Sandstones and shales, possibly of Upper Karroo age, See also:form a narrow See also:belt at the edge of the See also:foot-plateau . Upper Cretaceous rocks See also:crop out from beneath the superficial deposits along the coast belt between Delagoa Bay and Mozambique . The Cenomanian period is represented in Conducia by the beds with Puzosia and Acanthoceras, and in Sofala and Busi by the beds with Alectryonia See also:ungulata and Exogyra See also:columba . The highest Cretaceous strata occur in Conducia, where they contain the huge ammonite Pachydiscus conduciensis . The . See also:Eocene formation is well represented in See also:Gazaland by the nummulitic limestones which have been found to extend for a considerable distance inland .

Basalts occur at several localities in the Zambezi basin . On the flanks of See also:

Mount Milanje there are two volcanic cones which would appear to be of comparatively See also:recent date; but the most interesting igneous rocks are the rhyolitic lavas of the Lebombo range . See also:Climate.—The climate is unhealthy on the coast and along the banks of the Zambezi, where See also:malaria is endemic . With moderate care, however, Europeans are able to enjoy tolerably See also:good See also:health . On the uplands and the plateaus the climate is temperate and healthy . At Tete, on the lower Zambezi, the See also:annual mean temperature is 77.9° F., the hottest See also:month being See also:November, 83.3°, and the coldest See also:July, 72.5° . At Quilimane, on the coast, the mean temperature is 85.1°, maximum 106.7° and minimum 49.1° . The cool season is from See also:April to See also:August . The rainy season lasts from See also:December to See also:March, and the dry season from May to the end of See also:September . November is a month of See also:light rains . During the monsoons the districts bordering the Mozambique Channel enjoy a fairly even mean temperature of 76.1°, maximum mean 88.7°, and minimum mean 65.3° . See also:Fauna.—The fauna is See also:rich, See also:game in immense variety being plentiful in most districts .

The See also:

carnivora include the See also:lion, both of the yellow and See also:black-maned varieties, See also:leopard, spotted See also:hyena, See also:jackal, See also:serval, See also:civet See also:cat, See also:genet, See also:hunting See also:dog (See also:Lycaon pictus) in the Mozambique district, mongoose and spotted See also:otter, the last-named rare . Of ungulata the See also:elephant is plentiful, though large tuskers are not often shot . The black See also:rhinoceros is also See also:common, and south of the Zambezi are a few specimens of See also:white rhinoceros (R. simus) . The rivers and marshes are the See also:home of numerous hippopotami, which have, however, deserted the lower Zambezi . The See also:wart-hog and the smaller red hog are common . A See also:species of See also:zebra is plentiful, and herds of See also:buffalo (See also:Bos caller) are numerous in the plains and in open See also:woods . Of antelopes the finest are the See also:eland and See also:sable See also:antelope . The See also:kudu is rare . See also:Waterbuck, hartebeeste (Bubalis lichtensteini), brindled See also:gnu and tsesebe (south of the Zambezi, replaced north of that river by the lechwe and puku), See also:reedbuck, See also:bushbuck, impala, See also:duiker, See also:klipspringer and See also:oribi are all common . The See also:giraffe is not found within the province . Of See also:edentata the scaly See also:ant-eater and See also:porcupine are numerous . Among See also:rodentia See also:hares and rabbits are abundant .

There are several kinds of monkeys and lemuroids, but the anthropoids are absent . Crocodiles, lizards, chameleons, land and river tortoises are all very numerous, as are pythons (some 18 ft. long), cobras, puff-adders and vipers . Centipedes and scorpions and See also:

insects are innumerable . Among insects mosquitos, locusts, the tsetse See also:fly, the See also:hippo-fly, cockroaches, See also:phylloxera, ter-mites, soldier ants and flying ants are common plagues . As has been indicated, the Zambezi forms a dividing line not crossed by certain animals, so that the fauna north of that river presents some marked contrasts with that to the south . See also:Bird-See also:life is abundant . Among the larger birds flamingoes are especially common in the Mozambique district . See also:Cranes, herons, storks, pelicans and ibises are numerous, including the beautiful crested See also:crane and the See also:saddle-billed See also:stork (Mycteria senegalensis), the last-named comparatively rare . The See also:eagle, See also:vulture, See also:kite, See also:buzzard and See also:crow are well represented, though the crested eagle is not found . Of game birds the See also:guinea See also:fowl, See also:partridge, See also:bustard, See also:quail, See also:wild See also:goose, See also:teal, widgeon, mallard and See also:ether kinds of See also:duck are all common . Other birds numerously represented are parrots (chiefly a smallish See also:green bird—the See also:grey See also:parrot is not found), ravens, hornbills, buntings, finches, doves, a variety of See also:cuckoo, small wag-tails, a See also:starling with a beautiful burnished See also:bronze-green plumage, See also:spur-winged plovers, See also:stilt birds, ruffs and kingfishers . See also:Flora.—The flora is varied and abundant, though the See also:custom of the natives to See also:burn the grass during the dry season gives to large areas for nearly half the See also:year a blackened, desolate See also:appearance .

Six varieties of palms are found—the coco-See also:

nut, raphia, wild date, borassus (or See also:fan See also:palm), hyphaene and See also:Phoenix spinosa . The coconut is common in the coast regions and often attains too ft.; the date palm, found mostly in marshy ground and by the banks of small rivers, is seldom more than 20 ft. in height . Of the many See also:timber trees a See also:kind of See also:cedar is found in the lower forests; See also:ironwood and See also:ebony are common, and other trees resemble satin and See also:rosewood, The Khaya senegalensis, a very large See also:tree found in ravines and by river banks, affords durable and easily-worked timber; there are several varieties of vitex and of ficus, notably the sycamore, which bears an edible See also:fruit . Excellent hardwood is obtained from a species of grewia . Other characteristic trees are the mangrove (along the See also:sea shore), See also:sandal-See also:wood, See also:gum See also:copal, See also:baobab and bombax, and, in the lower See also:plain, dracaenas (See also:dragon trees), candalabra See also:euphorbia, and many species of creepers and flowering shrubs . The thorny smilax and many other prickly creepers and shrubs are abundant . Acacias are numerous, including the gum-yielding variety, while landolphia See also:rubber vines grow freely in the forests . Among See also:plants of economic value the See also:coffee, See also:cotton, See also:indigo and See also:tobacco plants are found, as well as the See also:castor oil and other oleaginous plants . Bananas, mangoes and pineapples grow in great profusion . Among See also:flowers See also:crinum lilies, See also:lotus, gentians, gladioli, lobelias, violets (scentless), red and yellow immortelles (confined to the higher elevations) and yellow and See also:blue amomums are common . Of See also:grasses the See also:bamboo is common . Phragrnites communis, See also:spear grass, with its waving, snowy plumes, grows 12 to 14 ft. and is abundant along the river banks and along the edges of the marshes .

(For the flora of the Nyasa region see B RITISII CENTRAI . AFRICA.) Inhabitants.—Portuguese East Africa is sparsely inhabited, the estimated See also:

population (1909) being 3,120,000; 90 % of the inhabitants belong to various See also:Bantu tribes, from whose ranks most of the natives employed in the Transvaal See also:gold mines are recruited . The most important in the northern half of the province are the See also:Yaos (q.v.) and the Ma Kua (Makwa) . The Makwa, notwithstanding the presence of See also:Arabs, Banyans (See also:Hindus) and Battias in all the coast districts, have preserved in a remarkable degree their purity of See also:race, although their See also:language has undergone considerable See also:change (see BANTU See also:LANGUAGES) . Most of the country between the Rovuma and the Zambezi is populated by branches of this race, governed by numerous See also:petty chiefs . The Makwa are divided into four families or See also:groups—the Low Makwa, the Lomwe or Upper Makwa, the Maua and the Medo . Yao possess the country between the Msalu river and Nyasa . The dominant race between the Zambezi and the Mazoe are the Tavala, other tribes in the same region being the Maravi, Senga, Muzimba and Muzuzuro . They are mainly of Zulu origin . Between the Zambezi and the Pungwe are the Barue, Batoka, &c . In the district south of the Pungwe river, known as Gazaland, the ruling tribes are of Zulu origin, all other tribes of different stock being known as Tongas . For the most part these Tongas resemble the Basutos .

They are of peaceful disposition . They occupy themselves with stock-raising and See also:

agriculture . The white inhabitants numbered about 9000 in 19o9 . They are chiefly Portuguese and See also:British and nearly a half live in Lourenco Marques . There are many Portuguese half-castes . Chief Towns.—The chief towns are Louren90 Marques, Mozambique, Quilimane, Inhambane, Beira, See also:Chinde and Sofala, all separately noticed . The other See also:European settlements are Chingune (see SOFALA), Angoxa and Ibo on the coast, and Sena, Tete and Zumbo on the Zambezi . Angoxa lies midway between Quilimane and Mozambique, See also:dates from the 17th See also:century, and is a small and little frequented port . Ibo, founded by the Portuguese at the beginning of the 17th century, is built on an See also:island, likewise called Ibo, in 120 20' S., 400 38' E. off the northern arm of Montepuesi Bay, and 18o m. north of Mozambique . Ibo Island is one of a See also:group known as the Querimba See also:archipelago . The See also:harbour is sheltered but shallow . The See also:town attained considerable dimensions in the 17th century and was made the headquarters of the Cape Delgado district in the 18th century .

The most prominent buildings are two forts, one disused . The other, called See also:

San Joao, is See also:star-shaped and was built, according to an inscription over the gateway, in 1791 . The Zambezi towns (Sena, Tete and Zumbo) See also:mark the limits of penetration made by the Portuguese inland . Comparatively important places in the 17th and See also:early part of the 18th centuries, with the decline of Portuguese See also:power they See also:fell into a ruinous See also:condition . The opening up of Rhodesia and British Central Africa in the last See also:quarter of the 19th century gave them renewed life . Sena, some 150 M. by river from Chinde, is built at the foot of a See also:hill on the See also:southern See also:side of the Zambezi, from which it is now distant 2 m., though in the See also:middle of the 16th century the river flowed by it . Sena possesses an 18th-century fort, amodern See also:government See also:house and a See also:church dedicated to St Marcal . Tete, founded about the same time as Sena, is also on the south See also:bank of the Zambezi . It is about 14o m. by the river above Sena . Since 1894 there has been a See also:regular service of steamers between Tete and Chinde . Of the See also:ancient town little remains See also:save the strongly-built fort and the church . The new town dates from about 186o, when there was a revival of the See also:trade in gold dust and See also:ivory .

This trade, however, became practically See also:

extinct by 1903; the gold dust See also:traffic through exhaustion of supplies, and the ivory trade through diversion to other routes . A transit trade to British possessions north and south of Tete has been See also:developed, and in 1906 some gold mines in the neighbourhood began crushing ore . Zumbo is picturesquely situated just below the Loangwe confluence and commands large stretches of navigable See also:water on the Loangwe and middle Zambezi . The 17th-century town was deserted in consequence of the hostility of the natives . In 1859 See also:David See also:Livingstone found on its site nothing but the ruins of a few houses . Since then a new See also:settlement has been made, and Zumbo has acquired some transit trade with Rhodesia . On the line of railway from Beira to Rhodesia the most important town is Massi Kessi (Portuguese Macequece) in the centre of the Manica goldfields . It lies 250o ft. above the sea, 194 m. north-west of Beira by See also:rail, and is close to the British frontier . Along the railway from Louren90 Marques to the Transvaal frontier are stations marking the position of small settlements . The last Portuguese station is named Ressano See also:Garcia; the first Transvaal station Komati Poort . Communications.—The Zambezi is navigable by light draught steamers throughout its course in Portuguese territory with one break at the Kebrassa Rapids—400 m. fram its mouth . By means of the Shire affluent of the Zambezi there is See also:direct steamer and rail-way connexion with British Central Africa .

The navigability of the other rivers of the province has been indicated . From Louren90 Marques See also:

railways run to See also:Swaziland and the Transvaal, and from Beira there is a railway to Rhodesia . These lines, built to See also:foster trade with countries beyond Portuguese territory, See also:link the ports named to the British railway systems in South and Central Africa . The route for a railway to connect Beira with Sena was surveyed in 1906-1907, a route from Quilimane to the Zambezi being also surveyed . A light railway (5o m. long) goes inland from Matamba, on Inhambane Bay, serving northern Gazaland . Native See also:caravan routes See also:traverse every part of the country, but these are See also:mere tracks, and in general communication is difficult and slow . Lourenco Marques, Beira, Mozambique and other ports are in telegraphic communication with See also:Europe via South Africa and See also:Zanzibar, and a See also:cable connects Mozambique with Madagascar . Inland See also:telegraph lines connect the ports with the adjacent British possessions . British, German and Portuguese steamship lines maintain regular communication between Louren90 Marques and other ports and Europe and See also:India . In 1908 some 1700 vessels of 3,400,000 tons visited the ports of the province . Agriculture and Other See also:Industries.—The country from the Rovuma to the Zambezi is of great fertility, the richest portion being that between Angoxa and Quilimane . In•the basin of the Zambezi the See also:soil is fertilized by the inundations of the river .

The low coast land of the See also:

Gaza country is almost equally fruitful . A great part of the country is suitable for the growth of the See also:sugar-See also:cane, See also:rice, ground-nuts, coffee and tobacco . The two last named plants, as also cotton, See also:vanilla, See also:tea and See also:cloves, are not a success in the Quilimane region, where coco-nuts and ground-nuts are the chief crops . Rubber vines are largely grown in the Mozambique district and the Mozambique See also:Company has large plantations of coffee and sugar . There are numerous sugar factories and rice plantations in the Zambezi district . The natives devote their See also:attention to the raising of oleaginous crops and of See also:maize, See also:cassava, beans, &c . See also:Wheat and other cereals are grown in the valley of the Zambezi . Large herds of See also:cattle are raised . The system prevails in many districts of dividing the land into prazos (large agricultural estates) in which the natives cultivate various crops for the benefit of the European leaseholder, who is also tax-See also:collector for his district and can claim the tax either in labour or produce . See also:Fish are plentiful along the coast, and pearls are obtained off the Bazaruto Isles . Turtles are caught in the Querimba archipelago . See also:Spirits, sugar, See also:fibres and pottery are practically the only commodities manufactured .

Phoenix-squares

The hunting of game for ivory and skins affords employment to large See also:

numbers of See also:people . See also:Mineral Resources.—There are immense deposits of coal in the neighbourhood of 'Fete and near Delagoa Bay, and adjoining the coalfields ironstone of the best quality is plentiful . See also:Malachite and See also:copper are found in the interior, north-west of Mozambique . The whole of the region north of Delagoa Bay to the Zambezi and inland to and beyond the Portuguese frontier is auriferous, and ancient gold workings abound . Many writers have sought to identify this region with the land of See also:Ophir . In Manica several gold mines are worked . In 1906-1907 a rich formation similar to the See also:American " placer " deposits was discovered in the Manica goldfields . Gold mines are also worked at Missale and Chifumbaze, to the north of Tete . The Missale mines are just south of the frontier of British Central Africa . See also:Petroleum is found near Inhambane, as is also a curious elastic-like substance named inhangellite, resembling See also:bitumen, chiefly de-rived from masses of a gelatinous alga (see See also:Kew Bulletin, No . 5, 1907) . See also:Commerce.—The chief exports are rubber, sugar, coal (from the Transvaal), beeswax, coco-nuts, See also:copra and mangrove bark, ivory (including See also:hippopotamus See also: