See also:ROBES (Fr. robe, See also:Late See also:Lat. roba, raupa, meaning (1)
spoils, (2) robe, stuff, cf
.
Mod
.
Ital. roba, connected with a See also:Teutonic See also:root raup, raub, See also:German rauben and See also:English rob), the name generally given to a class of See also:official See also:costume, especially as worn by certain persons or classes on occasions of particular solemnity
.
According to Du Cange, the word robe was earliest used, in the sense of a garment, of those given by popes and princes to the members of their See also:household or their See also:great See also:officers
.
Thus See also:Matthew See also:Paris (Chron
.
Majora, Rolls See also:Series, V
.
38) tells how, in 1248, the See also:pope gave to some Tatar envoys " vestes pretiosissimas quas Robas -vulgariter' appellamus,de escarleto praeelecto, cum pellibus et furruris," with which Du Cange compares the " festiva indumenta " given, e.g., by See also:- KING
- KING (O. Eng. cyning, abbreviated into cyng, cing; cf. O. H. G. chun- kuning, chun- kunig, M.H.G. kiinic, kiinec, kiinc, Mod. Ger. Konig, O. Norse konungr, kongr, Swed. konung, kung)
- KING [OF OCKHAM], PETER KING, 1ST BARON (1669-1734)
- KING, CHARLES WILLIAM (1818-1888)
- KING, CLARENCE (1842–1901)
- KING, EDWARD (1612–1637)
- KING, EDWARD (1829–1910)
- KING, HENRY (1591-1669)
- KING, RUFUS (1755–1827)
- KING, THOMAS (1730–1805)
- KING, WILLIAM (1650-1729)
- KING, WILLIAM (1663–1712)
King See also:John magnalum suorum multitudini at See also:Christmas See also:- TIME (0. Eng. Lima, cf. Icel. timi, Swed. timme, hour, Dan. time; from the root also seen in " tide," properly the time of between the flow and ebb of the sea, cf. O. Eng. getidan, to happen, " even-tide," &c.; it is not directly related to Lat. tempus)
- TIME, MEASUREMENT OF
- TIME, STANDARD
time (1214, Matt
.
Paris, Rolls Series, II
.
520) and the raubae papales scutiferorum, and the like, given by the popes to members of their households, after the See also:fashion of a See also:livery
.
It would, however, be perhaps going too far to assume that, e.g., peers' See also:robes were originally the king's livery, for there seems to be no See also:- PROOF (in M. Eng. preove, proeve, preve, &°c., from O. Fr . prueve, proeve, &c., mod. preuve, Late. Lat. proba, probate, to prove, to test the goodness of anything, probus, good)
proof that this was the See also:case; but it is curious that in most See also:early cases where robes are mentioned, if not of See also:cloth of See also:gold, &c., they are of See also:scarlet, furred
.
A robe is properly a See also:long garment, and the See also:term " robes " is now applied only in those cases where a long garment forms See also:part of the official costume, though in See also:ordinary usage it is taken to include all the other articles of See also:dress proper to the costume in question
.
The term robes," moreover, See also:con-notes a certain degree of dignity or See also:honour in the wearer
.
We speak of the king's robes of See also:state, of peers' robes, of the robes of the See also:clergy, of See also:academic robes, judicial robes, municipal or civic robes; we should not speak of the robes of a See also:cathedral See also:verger, though he too wears a long See also:gown of ceremony, and it is even only by somewhat stretching the term " robes' that
we can include under it the ordinary academical dress of the See also:universities
.
In the case of the official costume of the clergy,
too, a distinction must be See also:drawn
.
The vestimenla sacra are not spoken of as " robes "; a See also:priest is not " robed " but " vested " for See also:Mass; yet the See also:rochet and See also:chimere of an English See also:bishop, even in See also:- CHURCH
- CHURCH (according to most authorities derived from the Gr. Kvpcaxov [&wµa], " the Lord's [house]," and common to many Teutonic, Slavonic and other languages under various forms—Scottish kirk, Ger. Kirche, Swed. kirka, Dan. kirke, Russ. tserkov, Buig. cerk
- CHURCH, FREDERICK EDWIN (1826-1900)
- CHURCH, GEORGE EARL (1835–1910)
- CHURCH, RICHARD WILLIAM (1815–189o)
- CHURCH, SIR RICHARD (1784–1873)
church, are more properly referred to as robes than as See also:vestments, and while the See also:cope he wears in church is a vestment rather than a robe, the scarlet cope which is part of his See also:parliamentary full dress is a robe, not a vestment
.
For the See also:sake of convenience the official, non-liturgical costume of the clergy is dealt with under the See also:general heading VESTMENTS and the subsidiary articles (e.g
.
COPE)
.
The See also:coronation robes of emperors and See also:kings, representing as they do the sacerdotal significance of See also:Christian kingship, are essentially vestments rather than robes (see CORONATION), Apart from these, however, are the royal robes of state; in the case of the- king of See also:England a See also:crimson See also:velvet surcoat and long See also:mantle, fastened in front of the See also:neck, See also:ermine lined, with a deep cape or tippet of ermine.' .-
The subject of official robes is too vast for any See also:attempt to be made to See also:deal with it comprehensively here
.
All countries; See also:East and ti`est, which boast an See also:ancient See also:civilization have retained them in greater or less degree, and the tendency in See also:modern times has been to multiply rather than to diminish their number
.
Even in republican See also:France they survived the Revolution, at least in the universities and the 'See also:law courts
.
But nowhere has See also:custom been so conservative in this See also:matter as in the See also:United See also:Kingdom, where in this as in other matters the See also:wise Machiavellian principle has been followed of changing
1 For the See also:sovereign's coronation robes, see " The King's Coronation Ornaments," by W
.
St John See also:Hope, in The Ancestor, vols. i. and ii., also L
.
Wickham Legg, English Coronation Records, 1901
.
The " parliamentary robes " used to be of crimson or See also:purple velvet, furred with ermine
.
See the above, also the inventories of the wardrobes of sovereigns, &.g_the substance of institutions without altering their outward semblance
.
The See also:present See also:article, then, does not attempt to deal with any but See also:British robes,2 under the headings of (1) peers' robes, (2) robes in the See also:House of See also:Commons, (3) robes of the Orders of See also:Knighthood, (4) judicial and forensic robes, (s) municipal and civic robes, (6) academic costume
.
Peers' Robes.—As early as the end of the 14th See also:century peers seem to have worn at their creation some See also:kind of robe of honour; this we may conclude from the description of the See also:investiture of the See also:earl of See also:Somerset in 1397 (Rot
.
Parl
.
343), which says: le dit See also:Monsieur John fut amesnee devant le See also:Roy en Parleenent entre deux Contes, c'est assavoir Huntyngdon et Mareschall, vestuz en-un See also:pane (Du Cange; pannus =3. habitus vestimenlum) come vesture de honor "; while in accounts of various
creations of about the same time (Rot
.
Parl
.
205, ao6)
are used the words " advenienteque . prefato Duce honorifice
togato et ornato." An early See also:illustration of their use is to be found in an See also:illumination on the See also:foundation See also:charter of King's See also:College, See also:Cambridge (see fig
.
1), which represents the peers as
early as 1446 wearing gowns, mantles" and hoods of scarlet, furred with miniver, the mantle opening on the right See also:shoulder and guarded with two, three or four bars of miniver, in the See also:form of See also:short stripes high up on the shoulder
.
The origin of these is as yet unknown, and it is not certain precisely when the peers' velvet robe of See also:estate was first used
.
At the coronation of See also:- HENRY
- HENRY (1129-1195)
- HENRY (c. 1108-1139)
- HENRY (c. 1174–1216)
- HENRY (Fr. Henri; Span. Enrique; Ger. Heinrich; Mid. H. Ger. Heinrich and Heimrich; O.H.G. Haimi- or Heimirih, i.e. " prince, or chief of the house," from O.H.G. heim, the Eng. home, and rih, Goth. reiks; compare Lat. rex " king "—" rich," therefore " mig
- HENRY, EDWARD LAMSON (1841– )
- HENRY, JAMES (1798-1876)
- HENRY, JOSEPH (1797-1878)
- HENRY, MATTHEW (1662-1714)
- HENRY, PATRICK (1736–1799)
- HENRY, PRINCE OF BATTENBERG (1858-1896)
- HENRY, ROBERT (1718-1790)
- HENRY, VICTOR (1850– )
- HENRY, WILLIAM (1795-1836)
Henry VI. the king's own See also:parliament robe was of scarlet and miniver (See also:- GREGORY
- GREGORY (Gregorius)
- GREGORY (Grigorii) GRIGORIEVICH ORLOV, COUNT (1734-1783)
- GREGORY, EDWARD JOHN (1850-19o9)
- GREGORY, OLINTHUS GILBERT (1774—1841)
- GREGORY, ST (c. 213-C. 270)
- GREGORY, ST, OF NAZIANZUS (329–389)
- GREGORY, ST, OF NYSSA (c.331—c. 396)
- GREGORY, ST, OF TOURS (538-594)
Gregory's See also:Chronicle, ed
.
See also:Gairdner; See also:Camden See also:Soc. pp
.
165-70), SO the peers' robes were certainly not yet of velvet; at that of Henry VII
.
(see See also:Rutland: Papers, 1842; " See also:Device for the Coronation of Henry VII.") the king had a robe of crimson velvet and ermine, but the "lords temporall" are only said to have been " in their robes "; at that of Henry VIII
.
(see See also:- HALL
- HALL (generally known as SCHWABISCH-HALL, tc distinguish it from the small town of Hall in Tirol and Bad-Hall, a health resort in Upper Austria)
- HALL (O.E. heall, a common Teutonic word, cf. Ger. Halle)
- HALL, BASIL (1788-1844)
- HALL, CARL CHRISTIAN (1812–1888)
- HALL, CHARLES FRANCIS (1821-1871)
- HALL, CHRISTOPHER NEWMAN (1816—19oz)
- HALL, EDWARD (c. 1498-1547)
- HALL, FITZEDWARD (1825-1901)
- HALL, ISAAC HOLLISTER (1837-1896)
- HALL, JAMES (1793–1868)
- HALL, JAMES (1811–1898)
- HALL, JOSEPH (1574-1656)
- HALL, MARSHALL (1790-1857)
- HALL, ROBERT (1764-1831)
- HALL, SAMUEL CARTER (5800-5889)
- HALL, SIR JAMES (1761-1832)
- HALL, WILLIAM EDWARD (1835-1894)
Hall's Chronicle) the king in his progress through the See also:city wore a crimson velvet robe furred with ermine, his knights and esquires for his See also:body " wore crimson velvet, and " all the gentlemen," &c., scarlet, while we hear of the " lords spiritual and temporal, and of their costly and See also:rich See also:apparel; of several devises and fashions," and notably of the -See also:duke of Bucking-See also:ham's robe of gold and See also:needlework (See also:Stow's See also:Annals, p
.
813), which would show that the velvet robe of estate was not yet worn at the king's coronation
.
The duke of See also:Richmond at his creation in 1525 (17 Henry VIII.; see See also:Brewer, State Papers, iv
.
639) is described as clad in robes of estate, and the description of the investiture says that " the patent was read, the robe, See also:sword, cap and circlet put on," and about this time references are found to the " parliament robes " of peers, implying that there were others
.
An See also:account of the coronation of See also:Anne See also:Boleyn in 1533, in J
.
See also:Nichols, Progresses of See also:Queen See also:Elizabeth, vol. i. p
.
1, says that in her progress through the city " all the lordes for the most part were clothed in crimson velvet," while - at
z In the United States few See also:save Federal See also:judges See also:wear robes
.
The scarlet judicial robes were discarded at the Revolution
.
Those of See also:black See also:silk now worn are slightly modified academic gowns
.
John See also:Jay, first See also:Chief See also:Justice of the Supreme See also:Court (1787), set the fashion by sitting in the LL.D. gown granted him by See also:Columbia University
.
From the foundation charter of King's College, Cambridge, x446
.
See also:Westminster the barons and viscounts wore their parliament robes,' the earls, marquesses and See also:dukes wearing their robes of estate of crimson velvet " furred with ermins, poudred according to their degrees." This was also the case At the coronation of See also:- JAMES
- JAMES (Gr. 'IlrKw,l3or, the Heb. Ya`akob or Jacob)
- JAMES (JAMES FRANCIS EDWARD STUART) (1688-1766)
- JAMES, 2ND EARL OF DOUGLAS AND MAR(c. 1358–1388)
- JAMES, DAVID (1839-1893)
- JAMES, EPISTLE OF
- JAMES, GEORGE PAYNE RAINSFOP
- JAMES, HENRY (1843— )
- JAMES, JOHN ANGELL (1785-1859)
- JAMES, THOMAS (c. 1573–1629)
- JAMES, WILLIAM (1842–1910)
- JAMES, WILLIAM (d. 1827)
James I., and in See also:Selden's Titles of Honour rd ed., 1672) the illustrations show the See also:baron and See also:viscount in parliamentary robes, the higher ranks in robes of estate
.
By the time of James II.'s coronation, however, the baron and viscount had the velvet robes of estate (see illustration on p. r88 of See also:Perkins's The Coronation See also:Book, 1902, where the surcoat also appears to have a pointed See also:collar edged with See also:- WHITE
- WHITE, ANDREW DICKSON (1832– )
- WHITE, GILBERT (1720–1793)
- WHITE, HENRY KIRKE (1785-1806)
- WHITE, HUGH LAWSON (1773-1840)
- WHITE, JOSEPH BLANCO (1775-1841)
- WHITE, RICHARD GRANT (1822-1885)
- WHITE, ROBERT (1645-1704)
- WHITE, SIR GEORGE STUART (1835– )
- WHITE, SIR THOMAS (1492-1567)
- WHITE, SIR WILLIAM ARTHUR (1824--1891)
- WHITE, SIR WILLIAM HENRY (1845– )
- WHITE, THOMAS (1628-1698)
- WHITE, THOMAS (c. 1550-1624)
white and to be sleeveless)
.
The See also:colour of these seems to have been crimson at first, some-times varying to purple
.
They' consisted of a long gown or surcoat with See also:girdle, a mantle lined with etmine, a See also:hood and a tippet of ermine, the rows being as follows: for a duke 4, a See also:marquess 327 an earl 3, a viscount 21, and a baron 2
.
Till See also:late in the 18th century peers continued to attend the House of Lords in parliamentary robes, with the stars and See also:ribbons of • their orders, but robes are now only worn in the Hourse of Lords, e.g. at the opening of parliament, on occasions when the sovereign gives his assent to bills by " royal See also:commission " (when five or six peers on the See also:government 'See also:side appear in robes, and the See also:lord See also:chancellor also wears his peer's robe of scarlet ermine), and at the introduction of a newly created peer, when the new peer and his two introducers wear their parliamentary robes (over See also:morning dress) during the ceremony of introduction only
.
The mover and seconder of the Address no longer wear robes, but See also:uniform
.
On all the above occasions, and when the peers as a body attend church or some other ceremony, the parliamentary robe of scarlet cloth is worn; in the present See also:day it takes the form of a mantle opening on the right shoulder, with a collar of ermine," and guarded with rows of ermine and gold See also:lace See also:round the right shoulder, varying in number according to the See also:rank of the wearer
.
The modern coronation robes consist of a crimson velvet surcoat and a mantle with a tippet of ermine and with rows of ermine as in, the parliamentary robes
.
The surcoat is no longer a gown, but a short409
consisted of a mantle, surcoat and hood
.
The robes of the Garter were originally of See also:blue woollen stuff, the surcoat and hoot' being, powdered with garters embroidered in silk and' gold
.
In the time of Henry VI. the mantle was first made of velvet, and between the time of Elizabeth and of See also:Charles I. it seems to have been sometimes purple in colour
.
The surcoat varied in colour from See also:year to year; in the reign of the founder alone, e.g., it was first blue, then black (possibly as a sign of See also:mourning for the See also:plague), then " sanguine in See also:grain." The hood was made of the same material as the surcoat, and when hats began to be worn, was carried See also:hanging over the shoulder
.
The number of garters embroidered on the surcoat and hood came to be fixed by rank, but after Henry VI. the surcoat seems to have been made of See also:plain velvet
.
Robes were sometimes granted to ladies in the early days (see Beltz, p. ccxxi., for a See also:list of those ladies), in. which case the robe and hood were of the colour of the surcoat worn by the knights that year, and powdered with garters
.
The last See also:lady to receive the robes was See also:Margaret, countess of Richmond, in 1488
.
At the present day the mantle is of dark blue velvet, of the same colour as the ribbon, lined with this taffeta, and with the See also:star embroidered on the See also:left shoulder, the hood and surcoat of crimson velvet lined with white taffeta, and with these are worn a doublet and See also:trunk-See also:hose of white satin and a plumed See also:hat (see See also:- LAWRENCE
- LAWRENCE (LAURENTIUS, LORENZO), ST
- LAWRENCE, AMOS (1786—1852)
- LAWRENCE, AMOS ADAMS (1814–1886)
- LAWRENCE, GEORGE ALFRED (1827–1876)
- LAWRENCE, JOHN LAIRD MAIR LAWRENCE, 1ST BARON (1811-1879)
- LAWRENCE, SIR HENRY MONTGOMERY (1806–1857)
- LAWRENCE, SIR THOMAS (1769–1830)
- LAWRENCE, STRINGER (1697–1775)
Lawrence-See also:Archer, The Orders of See also:Chivalry, p
.
106)
.
The robes worn by the knights of the See also:Bath created at the coronation of Henry IV. were See also:green with furred hoods, and a white silk See also:cord hanging from the left shoulder .3 In the various accounts of later creations of knights of the Bath quoted by Aristis, the costume worn before the ceremonial bath seems to have been a priest-like garment of russet or See also:grey, with a girdle and hood; after the bath, was put on a red surcoat and mantle, the latter with a lace of white silk, from which hung a pair of white gloves; and the final costume was a blue (later a purple) velvet or satin gown, with hood furred with miniver (later lined with sarcenet), and the white cord hanging from the shoulder, until it should be removed by the sovereign or a lady for some See also:deed of valour
.
The mantle in the present day is of crimson velvet lined with white over a white satin under-coat and trunk-hose, and a plumed hat and white boots with red tops are worn
.
The mantle of the See also:Thistle is of dark green velvet over surcoat, &c., of cloth of See also:silver; that of St See also:Patrick See also:azure, with doublet and trunk-hose of white satin; that of St See also:Michael and St See also:George of Saxon blue satin lined with scarlet; and that of the Star of See also:India of See also:light blue satin lined with white
.
House of Commons.—The See also:speaker of the House of Commons wears on state occasions a black See also:damask robe with gold lace and a full-bottomed See also:wig; in the House itself he wears a black silk robe with See also:train and a full-bottomed wig
.
The clerks at the table wear barristers' gowns and wigs
.
Judicial and Forensic Robes.—It is frequently stated that judicial robes had their origin in the dress of ecclesiastics
.
But though ecclesiastics in early days frequently acted as judges, and though, as See also:Fortescue says, the See also:serjeant's long robe was " ad instar sacerdotis," judicial robes more probably arose from the ordinary civilian dress of the early 14th century
.
The chief See also:argument for the ecclesiastical origin has been found in the See also:coif (tend, birretum See also:album), a cap of white See also:linen or silk, tied under the See also:chin, and described by Fortescue as " the See also:principal or chief insignment and See also:habit wherewith serjeants-at-law at their creation are decked," which is said to have been used by ecclesiastics to hide the See also:tonsure when in court
.
This view is disposed of by Pulling (The See also:- ORDER
- ORDER (through Fr. ordre, for earlier ordene, from Lat. ordo, ordinis, rank, service, arrangement; the ultimate source is generally taken to be the root seen in Lat. oriri, rise, arise, begin; cf. " origin ")
- ORDER, HOLY
Order of the Coif, See also:London, 1884)
.
More probably the coif was a See also:head-dress in See also:common use in the 13th century, which survived as the distinguishing See also:mark of men of law.' As such it is found in a See also:wardrobe-See also:roll of
8 " Longues cottes vertes a estroictes manches fourres de menever, et chapperons pareil fourres de menever, en See also:guise de prelats; et avoient See also:les dits chevaliers sur la senestre espaule ung See also:double cordeau de soye See also:blanche a blanche houppettes pendans " (See also:Froissart)
.
' Mr See also:Oswald Barron, in The Ancestor, vols. v
.
(p
.
1(35) and vii
.
(p: 108 seq., See also:plate xii.), has given reproductions of figures from See also:MSS
.
sleeveless garment
.
For See also:Scotland, an order of James II
.
(1455) prescribed for earls " mantles of See also:- BROWN
- BROWN, CHARLES BROCKDEN (1771-181o)
- BROWN, FORD MADOX (1821-1893)
- BROWN, FRANCIS (1849- )
- BROWN, GEORGE (1818-188o)
- BROWN, HENRY KIRKE (1814-1886)
- BROWN, JACOB (1775–1828)
- BROWN, JOHN (1715–1766)
- BROWN, JOHN (1722-1787)
- BROWN, JOHN (1735–1788)
- BROWN, JOHN (1784–1858)
- BROWN, JOHN (1800-1859)
- BROWN, JOHN (1810—1882)
- BROWN, JOHN GEORGE (1831— )
- BROWN, ROBERT (1773-1858)
- BROWN, SAMUEL MORISON (1817—1856)
- BROWN, SIR GEORGE (1790-1865)
- BROWN, SIR JOHN (1816-1896)
- BROWN, SIR WILLIAM, BART
- BROWN, THOMAS (1663-1704)
- BROWN, THOMAS (1778-1820)
- BROWN, THOMAS EDWARD (1830-1897)
- BROWN, WILLIAM LAURENCE (1755–1830)
brown granick colour " open before, lined and faced in front, as far as the girdle, with white See also:fur, and with hoods to match; for the other lords of parliament a red mantle lined with silk or fur, with a furred hood, while James I
.
(and VI.) in 16o6 had to issue an order restraining the Scotch peers from wearing velvet robes in parliament, and confining them to those of scarlet cloth (See also:Miscellany of the See also:Maitland See also:Club, vol. i. p
.
147)
.
The robes of the Scottish peers are now, of course, similar to those of the others
.
The peeresses' robes at the coronation of Anne Boleyn are also described in the account mentioned above
.
The duchess of See also:Norfolk, the ,train-See also:bearer, was followed by " ladies being lords' wives " in scarlet robes furred with " lettice," while Wrlothesley (loc. cit.) adds that the duchess was also in scarlet
?
The. order of the earl-See also:marshal for the regulation of the peeresses' robes at the coronation of James II
.
(given in J
.
H
.
T
.
Perkins's The Coronation Book, 1902, pp
.
202-5) shows that by then all peeresses wore the robes of state of crimson velvet, and minutely regulates all details, such as shape, powderings, length of train and width of the fur edging of the mantle
.
They have changed very little up to the present day
.
Robes of the Orders of Knighthood.—The See also:history of the robes of the two See also:oldest orders is given in great detail in Ashmole's Order of the Garter (London, 1672) and Anstis's Order of the Bath (London, 1725); see also G
.
F
.
Beltz, Memorials of the Order of the Garter (London, 1841), p. l-lii
.
In each case the robes
' These are well described in the account of the opening of parliament by Henry VIII. in 1537 given in Wriothesley's Chronicle of England (Camden Soc., 1875, ed
.
W
.
See also:- HAMILTON
- HAMILTON (GRAND or ASHUANIPI)
- HAMILTON, ALEXANDER (1757-1804)
- HAMILTON, ANTHONY, or ANTOINE (1646-1720)
- HAMILTON, ELIZABETH (1758–1816)
- HAMILTON, EMMA, LADY (c. 1765-1815)
- HAMILTON, JAMES (1769-1831)
- HAMILTON, JAMES HAMILTON, 1ST DUKE OF (1606-1649)
- HAMILTON, JOHN (c. 1511–1571)
- HAMILTON, MARQUESSES AND DUKES OF
- HAMILTON, PATRICK (1504-1528)
- HAMILTON, ROBERT (1743-1829)
- HAMILTON, SIR WILLIAM
- HAMILTON, SIR WILLIAM (1730-1803)
- HAMILTON, SIR WILLIAM ROWAN (1805-1865)
- HAMILTON, THOMAS (1789-1842)
- HAMILTON, WILLIAM (1704-1754)
- HAMILTON, WILLIAM GERARD (1729-1796)
Hamilton) : " all erles marques and lordes, all in their Perliament robes of See also:scarlett furred with white, and their hoodes about their neckes, which were See also:forty in number; everie duke having fower barres of white fur alongest the right side of their robes, and everie See also:earle having three bars,
.
. and everie lord two barres in likewise."
2 " After her followed ladies being lordes' wives, which had circotes of scarlet, with narrow sleeves, the See also:breast all lettice, with barres ofpouders according to their degrees, and over that they had mantles of scarlet furred, and every mantle had lettice about the necke like a neckerchief, likewise poudered, so that by the pouderings their degrees might be known
.
Then followed ladies being knights' wives in gowns of scarlet."
410
See also:Richard H
.
(1391, see See also:Fairholt, ii
.
341) in an entry for " twenty-one linen coifs for See also:counterfeiting men of the law in the king's See also:play at Christmas." The serjeant-at-law's " houve of silk " is also mentioned in Piers the Plowman (latter See also:half of the 14th century)' together with his furred cloak
.
See also:Chaucer, at the same See also:period, describes his serjeant-at-law as wearing a
party-coloured gown and girdle with bars .2
The earliest document quoted by Planch6 and others with reference to judges' costume is a See also:Close-roll of 20 Edw
.
III
.
(1347)
.
See also a wardrobe-roll of 21 Edw
.
III., and wardrobe accounts of II Richard II. and 22 Henry VI., all quoted in See also:Dugdale's Origines Juridiciales, from which we gather that the robes of the judges varied in colour, in the 14th and 15th centuries, from scarlet to green or " See also:violet in grain," and that their See also:winter gowns were furred with budge or miniver
.
For the early 15th century there are more data
.
Firstly, there is the illumination of the serjeant-at-law in the See also:Ellesmere MS. of The See also:Canterbury Tales (reproduced in See also:Furnivall's 6-See also:text edition for the Chaucer Society), in which he is shown wearing a short, party-coloured rayed gown of red and blue, lined with white fur, a hood and tippet edged with white fur, and a white coif with two little bands showing below the hood
.
Secondly, there are a certain number of See also:effigies or See also:brasses of judges and serjeants belonging to the first half of the 15th century.' Of judges, an early See also:brass is that of See also:Sir John Cassy (c
.
1400) (see fig
.
2).4
For the second half of the 15th century the authority is Chief-Justice Fortescue, who, See also:writing in the reign of Henry VI., describes the dress of the serjeant-at-law as follows:—" Roba longa ad instar sacerdotis cum capicio penulato circa humeros ejus, et desuper collobium, cum duobus labellulis, qualiter uti See also:Solent doctores legum in universitatibus quibusdam, cum supra descripto birreto vestiebatur." " He was clothed in a long robe, after the fashion of a priest, with a furred cape about his shoulders, and above it a hood, with two bands, such as are used by doctors of See also:laws in some universities, with the coif as de-scribed above " (De Laudibus Legum Angliae,
From a brass in Deerhurst cap. li.)
.
Fortescue continues: " But being once church, See also:Gloucestershire. made a justice, instead of his hood, he shall FIG
.
2.-Sir John wear a cloak closed upon his right shoulder, Cassy, chief baron all the other ornaments of a serjeant still re-of the See also:Exchequer maining; saving that a justice shall wear no (c
.
1400). party-coloured vesture, as a serjeant may,
and his cape is furred with miniver, whereas the serjeant's cape is furred with white See also:lamb (budge)."
This description of Fortescue's is See also:borne out by some illuminations from a 15th-century MS. representing sittings of the four See also:superior
of the 13th and 14th century, showing the coif worn by both clerks and laymen
.
i Prol. See also:line 210 (ed
.
See also:Skeat, See also:Clarendon See also:Press) : " Jit houed there an hondreth in houues of silke, seriauntz it seemed that serveden atte See also:barre "; and iii
.
293: " Shal no seriaunt for here seruyse were a silk howue, Ne no pelure in his cloke, for pleding atte barre."
' Prot. line 382 (ed
.
See also:Morris, Clarendon Press) : " He See also:rood but homely in a medlee cote Girt with a ceint of silk, with barres smale; of his See also:array telle I no longer See also:tale."
The effigy " supposed to represent Sir Richard de See also:Willoughby, chief justice of the king's See also: