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ROBES (Fr. robe, Late Lat. roba, raup...
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See also:ROBES (Fr. robe, See also:Late See also:Lat. roba, raupa, meaning (1)
spoils, (2) robe, stuff, cf
.
Mod
.
Ital. roba, connected with a See also:Teutonic See also:root raup, raub, See also:German rauben and See also:English rob), the name generally given to a class of See also:official See also:costume, especially as worn by certain persons or classes on occasions of particular solemnity
.
According to Du Cange, the word robe was earliest used, in the sense of a garment, of those given by popes and princes to the members of their See also:household or their See also:great See also:officers
.
Thus See also:Matthew See also:Paris (Chron
.
Majora, Rolls See also:Series, V
.
38) tells how, in 1248, the See also:pope gave to some Tatar envoys " vestes pretiosissimas quas Robas -vulgariter' appellamus,de escarleto praeelecto, cum pellibus et furruris," with which Du Cange compares the " festiva indumenta " given, e.g., by See also:
We speak of the king's robes of See also:state, of peers' robes, of the robes of the See also:clergy, of See also:academic robes, judicial robes, municipal or civic robes; we should not speak of the robes of a See also:cathedral See also:verger, though he too wears a long See also:gown of ceremony, and it is even only by somewhat stretching the term " robes' that
we can include under it the ordinary academical dress of the See also:universities
.
In the case of the official costume of the clergy,
too, a distinction must be See also:drawn
.
The vestimenla sacra are not spoken of as " robes "; a See also:priest is not " robed " but " vested " for See also:Mass; yet the See also:rochet and See also:chimere of an English See also:bishop, even in See also:
See the above, also the inventories of the wardrobes of sovereigns, &.g_the substance of institutions without altering their outward semblance
.
The See also:present See also:article, then, does not attempt to deal with any but See also:British robes,2 under the headings of (1) peers' robes, (2) robes in the See also:House of See also:Commons, (3) robes of the Orders of See also:Knighthood, (4) judicial and forensic robes, (s) municipal and civic robes, (6) academic costume
.
Peers' Robes.—As early as the end of the 14th See also:century peers seem to have worn at their creation some See also:kind of robe of honour; this we may conclude from the description of the See also:investiture of the See also:earl of See also:Somerset in 1397 (Rot
.
Parl
.
343), which says: le dit See also:Monsieur John fut amesnee devant le See also:Roy en Parleenent entre deux Contes, c'est assavoir Huntyngdon et Mareschall, vestuz en-un See also:pane (Du Cange; pannus =3. habitus vestimenlum) come vesture de honor "; while in accounts of various
creations of about the same time (Rot
.
Parl
.
205, ao6)
are used the words " advenienteque . prefato Duce honorifice
togato et ornato." An early See also:illustration of their use is to be found in an See also:illumination on the See also:foundation See also:charter of King's See also:College, See also:Cambridge (see fig
.
1), which represents the peers as
early as 1446 wearing gowns, mantles" and hoods of scarlet, furred with miniver, the mantle opening on the right See also:shoulder and guarded with two, three or four bars of miniver, in the See also:form of See also:short stripes high up on the shoulder
.
The origin of these is as yet unknown, and it is not certain precisely when the peers' velvet robe of See also:estate was first used
.
At the coronation of See also:
(see See also:Rutland: Papers, 1842; " See also:Device for the Coronation of Henry VII.") the king had a robe of crimson velvet and ermine, but the "lords temporall" are only said to have been " in their robes "; at that of Henry VIII
.
(see See also:
See also:Westminster the barons and viscounts wore their parliament robes,' the earls, marquesses and See also:dukes wearing their robes of estate of crimson velvet " furred with ermins, poudred according to their degrees." This was also the case At the coronation of See also: The number of garters embroidered on the surcoat and hood came to be fixed by rank, but after Henry VI. the surcoat seems to have been made of See also:plain velvet . Robes were sometimes granted to ladies in the early days (see Beltz, p. ccxxi., for a See also:list of those ladies), in. which case the robe and hood were of the colour of the surcoat worn by the knights that year, and powdered with garters . The last See also:lady to receive the robes was See also:Margaret, countess of Richmond, in 1488 . At the present day the mantle is of dark blue velvet, of the same colour as the ribbon, lined with this taffeta, and with the See also:star embroidered on the See also:left shoulder, the hood and surcoat of crimson velvet lined with white taffeta, and with these are worn a doublet and See also:trunk-See also:hose of white satin and a plumed See also:hat (see See also:Lawrence-See also:Archer, The Orders of See also:Chivalry, p . 106) . The robes worn by the knights of the See also:Bath created at the coronation of Henry IV. were See also:green with furred hoods, and a white silk See also:cord hanging from the left shoulder .3 In the various accounts of later creations of knights of the Bath quoted by Aristis, the costume worn before the ceremonial bath seems to have been a priest-like garment of russet or See also:grey, with a girdle and hood; after the bath, was put on a red surcoat and mantle, the latter with a lace of white silk, from which hung a pair of white gloves; and the final costume was a blue (later a purple) velvet or satin gown, with hood furred with miniver (later lined with sarcenet), and the white cord hanging from the shoulder, until it should be removed by the sovereign or a lady for some See also:deed of valour . The mantle in the present day is of crimson velvet lined with white over a white satin under-coat and trunk-hose, and a plumed hat and white boots with red tops are worn . The mantle of the See also:Thistle is of dark green velvet over surcoat, &c., of cloth of See also:silver; that of St See also:Patrick See also:azure, with doublet and trunk-hose of white satin; that of St See also:Michael and St See also:George of Saxon blue satin lined with scarlet; and that of the Star of See also:India of See also:light blue satin lined with white . House of Commons.—The See also:speaker of the House of Commons wears on state occasions a black See also:damask robe with gold lace and a full-bottomed See also:wig; in the House itself he wears a black silk robe with See also:train and a full-bottomed wig . The clerks at the table wear barristers' gowns and wigs . Judicial and Forensic Robes.—It is frequently stated that judicial robes had their origin in the dress of ecclesiastics . But though ecclesiastics in early days frequently acted as judges, and though, as See also:Fortescue says, the See also:serjeant's long robe was " ad instar sacerdotis," judicial robes more probably arose from the ordinary civilian dress of the early 14th century .
The chief See also:argument for the ecclesiastical origin has been found in the See also:coif (tend, birretum See also:album), a cap of white See also:linen or silk, tied under the See also:chin, and described by Fortescue as " the See also:principal or chief insignment and See also:habit wherewith serjeants-at-law at their creation are decked," which is said to have been used by ecclesiastics to hide the See also:tonsure when in court
.
This view is disposed of by Pulling (The See also:Order of the Coif, See also:London, 1884)
.
More probably the coif was a See also:head-dress in See also:common use in the 13th century, which survived as the distinguishing See also:mark of men of law.' As such it is found in a See also:wardrobe-See also:roll of
8 " Longues cottes vertes a estroictes manches fourres de menever, et chapperons pareil fourres de menever, en See also:guise de prelats; et avoient See also:les dits chevaliers sur la senestre espaule ung See also:double cordeau de soye See also:blanche a blanche houppettes pendans " (See also:Froissart)
.
' Mr See also:Oswald Barron, in The Ancestor, vols. v
.
(p
.
1(35) and vii
.
(p: 108 seq., See also:plate xii.), has given reproductions of figures from See also:MSS
.
sleeveless garment
.
For See also:Scotland, an order of James II
.
(1455) prescribed for earls " mantles of See also: The robes of the Scottish peers are now, of course, similar to those of the others . The peeresses' robes at the coronation of Anne Boleyn are also described in the account mentioned above . The duchess of See also:Norfolk, the ,train-See also:bearer, was followed by " ladies being lords' wives " in scarlet robes furred with " lettice," while Wrlothesley (loc. cit.) adds that the duchess was also in scarlet ? The. order of the earl-See also:marshal for the regulation of the peeresses' robes at the coronation of James II . (given in J . H . T . Perkins's The Coronation Book, 1902, pp . 202-5) shows that by then all peeresses wore the robes of state of crimson velvet, and minutely regulates all details, such as shape, powderings, length of train and width of the fur edging of the mantle . They have changed very little up to the present day . Robes of the Orders of Knighthood.—The See also:history of the robes of the two See also:oldest orders is given in great detail in Ashmole's Order of the Garter (London, 1672) and Anstis's Order of the Bath (London, 1725); see also G . F .
Beltz, Memorials of the Order of the Garter (London, 1841), p. l-lii
.
In each case the robes
' These are well described in the account of the opening of parliament by Henry VIII. in 1537 given in Wriothesley's Chronicle of England (Camden Soc., 1875, ed
.
W
.
See also: III., and wardrobe accounts of II Richard II. and 22 Henry VI., all quoted in See also:Dugdale's Origines Juridiciales, from which we gather that the robes of the judges varied in colour, in the 14th and 15th centuries, from scarlet to green or " See also:violet in grain," and that their See also:winter gowns were furred with budge or miniver . For the early 15th century there are more data . Firstly, there is the illumination of the serjeant-at-law in the See also:Ellesmere MS. of The See also:Canterbury Tales (reproduced in See also:Furnivall's 6-See also:text edition for the Chaucer Society), in which he is shown wearing a short, party-coloured rayed gown of red and blue, lined with white fur, a hood and tippet edged with white fur, and a white coif with two little bands showing below the hood . Secondly, there are a certain number of See also:effigies or See also:brasses of judges and serjeants belonging to the first half of the 15th century.' Of judges, an early See also:brass is that of See also:Sir John Cassy (c . 1400) (see fig . 2).4 For the second half of the 15th century the authority is Chief-Justice Fortescue, who, See also:writing in the reign of Henry VI., describes the dress of the serjeant-at-law as follows:—" Roba longa ad instar sacerdotis cum capicio penulato circa humeros ejus, et desuper collobium, cum duobus labellulis, qualiter uti See also:Solent doctores legum in universitatibus quibusdam, cum supra descripto birreto vestiebatur." " He was clothed in a long robe, after the fashion of a priest, with a furred cape about his shoulders, and above it a hood, with two bands, such as are used by doctors of See also:laws in some universities, with the coif as de-scribed above " (De Laudibus Legum Angliae, From a brass in Deerhurst cap. li.) . Fortescue continues: " But being once church, See also:Gloucestershire. made a justice, instead of his hood, he shall FIG . 2.-Sir John wear a cloak closed upon his right shoulder, Cassy, chief baron all the other ornaments of a serjeant still re-of the See also:Exchequer maining; saving that a justice shall wear no (c . 1400). party-coloured vesture, as a serjeant may, and his cape is furred with miniver, whereas the serjeant's cape is furred with white See also:lamb (budge)." This description of Fortescue's is See also:borne out by some illuminations from a 15th-century MS. representing sittings of the four See also:superior of the 13th and 14th century, showing the coif worn by both clerks and laymen . i Prol. See also:line 210 (ed . See also:Skeat, See also:Clarendon See also:Press) : " Jit houed there an hondreth in houues of silke, seriauntz it seemed that serveden atte See also:barre "; and iii . 293: " Shal no seriaunt for here seruyse were a silk howue, Ne no pelure in his cloke, for pleding atte barre." ' Prot. line 382 (ed .
See also:Morris, Clarendon Press) : " He See also:rood but homely in a medlee cote Girt with a ceint of silk, with barres smale; of his See also:array telle I no longer See also:tale."
The effigy " supposed to represent Sir Richard de See also:Willoughby, chief justice of the king's See also:bench " temp
.
See also:Edward III., illustrated by Fairholt, p
.
201, wears a long gown with girdle and See also:skull-cap, no distinctively judicial dress
.
The figure of See also:Robert Grymbald (temp
.
Henry II.), engraved from his See also:seal by Dugdale, wears the ordinary dress of the time
.
4 See also that of Sir See also:Hugh de Holes (1415; see Haines, Brasses, i. xc), and a See also: 1440, see Haines, p . 85), who wears a gown, See also:tabard, tippet, hood and coif, with two bands showing below the hood, like the Ellesmere MS. figure . The inscription calls Rolf " legi professus," which Haines takes to mean " See also:professor of law," Boutell and See also:Clark (Archaeological See also:Journal, vol. i. pp . 203–4) consider that he is a serjeant-at-law . Druitt (p . 224) remarks on the likeness of his tabard to that of a See also:Master of Arts, but compares a figure on a 15th-century cope, who also appears to be a serjeantat-law and wears a tabard . That a tabard sometimes formed part of the dress of a serjeant, can be seen in the See also:extract from the See also:Liber famelicus of Sir James See also:Whitelocke. quoted by Druitt, p . 225, footnote.courts in the time of Henry VI . (reproduced in Archaeologia, vol. xxxix. p . 358, &c., with an article by G . R . Corner; see plate) . In them we see the scarlet robes of the judges furred with miniver, and the party-coloured rayed gowns, tippets and hoods of the serjeants, besides the costume.of the See also:minor officials of the court . Both serjeants and judges wear to coif, certain of the judges also wearing furred caps or See also:turban-See also:lute head-dresses . The colour of the serjeants' party-coloured robes seems to have varied ;b in these illuminations they are blue and green, but by the 17th century, to quote Dugdale, Origines Juridiciales, cap . 38: " The robes they now use do still somewhat resemble those of the justices of either bench, and are of three distinct See also:colours, viz. murrey, black, furred with white, and scarlet; but the robe which they usually wear at their creation only is of two colours, viz. murrey and See also:mouse colour; whereunto they have a hood suitable, as also a coif of white silk or linen." (See also Pulling, p . 218, and Druitt, p . 225.) Sir E . Brabrook (Proceedings of the Soc. of Antiquaries, 2nd series, vol. iii. p . 414) quotes descriptions of calls of serjeants showing that as late as 1700 the serjeants wore party-coloured gowns at their creation and during the year following, and stating on what occasions they wore their black, scarlet or purple gowns (the last with scarlet or purple hoods) . At the last general See also:call (1736), and at the creation of a serjeant in 1762, party-coloured robes were still worn, but at a creation of 1809 they are no longer found . Until their final abolition the serjeants wore purple robes at their creation, and on ordinary occasions a black cloth or silk gown, with a scarlet robe for state occasions . Illustrations of judicial costumes in the 16th century are to be found in vol. i. of Vetusta Monumenta (Soc. of Antiquaries, 1747), in which are reproduced, firstly, a '' painted table in the King's Exchequer," temp . Henry VII., on which the officials of the Exchequer are shown wearing i long gowns, furred tippets and mantles, with coifs (see fig . 3) ; and secondly, a sitting of the Court of Wards and Liveries, temp . Elizabeth, in which are shown serjeants wearing party-coloured gowns, tippets, hoods and coifs (see also Pulling, facing pp . 86 and 214) . About this time the square cap, otherwise known as the cornered, black or See also:sentence FIG . 3.–Figures wearing coif. cap (the last from the fact of its being put on by the See also:judge when pronouncing sentence of See also:death), begins to be seen in monuments (cf. that of Sir Richard Harpur, temp . See also:Mary; Fairhold, p . 223) . Sometimes this cap is worn over the coif only, sometimes over the coif and skull-cap (cf. the portrait of Sir Edward See also:Coke, in Pulling, facing p . 18o) . The form also varies; sometimes, as in the portrait of Coke, it has no See also:ear-flaps, some times, as in its present form, it has . The form with ear-flaps is held by some to be a See also:combination of the square cap and skull-cap . The square cap was a mark of dignity, worn or carried on See also:solemn occasions, hence its use when pronouncing sentence of death, to mark the solemnity of the moment . Among the State Papers of 1625 is a " Discourse on what robes and apparel the judges are to wear, and how the serjeants-at-law are to wear their robes, and when," and on the 4th of See also:July 1635 there was a " solemn See also:decree and See also:rule made by all the judges of the courts at Westminster," which is quoted in Dugdale (loc. cit.) and Pulling (p . 215, footnote) . This costume is illustrated in See also:Hollar's See also:engraving of the coronation procession of Charles II . Towards the end of the 17th century the judges took to wearing wigs, and have continued to wear them ever since . The wearing of wigs naturally concealed the coif and velvet skull-cap, so a device had to be invented by which they could still be displayed . The expedient was See also:hit upon of putting a round patch of white stuff, with a black spot in the See also:middle of it, on the See also:crown of the wig of certain of the judges, to represent the coif and skull-cap . The rank of serjeant no longer existing, this round patch has now disappeared, the only trace of it left being the circular depression on the crown of the wig . The costume of judges of the High Court at the present day differs very little from that given in the order of 1635; but the cap is carried in the See also:hand as a part of the full dress, and only worn when a judge is passing sentence of death.' The c They were probably originally liveries; see G . R . Corner in Archaeologia, also Pulling, op. cit. pp . 211–12 . 6 See an See also:essay by Sir See also:Herbert See also:Stephen in Unwritten Laws and Ideals, ed .
E
.
H
.
See also:Pitcairn (See also: The state robe of the Master of the Rolls, the Lords Justices of the Court of See also:Appeal, and the See also:President of the See also:Probate, See also:Divorce and See also:Admiralty Divisions is the same, except that they have not the purse, and similar to it is the full-dress gown of the Speaker of the House of Commons, the Chancellor of the Exchequer, &c . The Lords Justices of the Court of Appeal sit in court in a costume similar to that of King's Counsel . The Lords of Appeal have no official robes, but sit in ordinary civilian dress . On state occasions they wear their peers' robes . The robes of state of the Lord Chief Justice of England are the same as those of the judges of the High Court, except that his are trained, and he wears the gold See also:chain of See also:office, the " collar of SS." The Scottish judges have two sets of robes, one for See also:Justiciary (i.e. the criminal court), which is also their full dress, and one for civil causes (Court of Session) . The dress for the President and Ordinary Lords of Session was fixed in 1610 by an order of James I., and was of purple cloth, faced with crimson satin, with hood to match, the President's gown having crimson velvet instead of satin . The four " extraordinary Sessionaries were to wear black velvet, satin, or silk gowns, lined with black . The Lord Justice General wore a scarlet gown lined with ermine and an ermine hood, the Lord Justice See also:Deputy and Lord Justice Clerk black gowns with crimson satin facings and hoods (see See also:Register of the Privy See also:Council of Scotland, vol. viii. p . 612) . At the foundation of the High Court of Justiciary (1672) it was enacted " that for the splendour of that court, all the judges sit in red robes, faced with white, that of the Justice Generalls being lined with ermine for distinction from the See also:rest " (see Acts of Parliament of Scotland, vol. viii. p . 88) . The present full dress of the Lord Justice General is a scarlet silk robe with tippet and hood, the hood falling down the back; the collar is of ermine, with which the tippet, sleeves and gown are edged ' See also:Minute details of court and See also:levee dress, judicial and legal, will be found in Dress worn at Court (pp .
6o-61), issued with the authority of the Lord See also: In the 16th and 17th centuries they wear the false-sleeved gown worn by civilians . Before the 17th century the costume worn by students at the Inns of Court and by " Utter Barristers " consisted of a stuff gown, and sometimes, in term-time, a round cap, which was worn in hall and in church (see Herbert, History of the Inns of Court (1804), p . 230) . In Westminster Hall (see Pulling, p . 223) the same costume was worn, Benchers and Readers having a more elaborate gown with facings of black velvet and tufts of silk . Frequent laws were passed in the 16th century and later, forbidding the wearing of swords, cloaks, boots and spurs, &c., in hall, and insisting on the wearing of gowns by students of the Inns of Court when walking in the city . In the 17th century, barristers, like the judges, adopted wigs, the full-bottomed wigs being confined to judges, " King's Counsellors," &c., and ordinary counsellors wearing small wigs . In Hollar's engraving of the coronation of Charles II. the King's Counsel, the King's See also:Attorney and See also:Solicitor, and the Master of the Rolls wear a laced gown with hanging sleeves . The silk gown, full-bottomed wig and black court dress now worn by King's Counsel is generally held to date from the funeral of Queen Mary II., being the mourning dress worn by the wish of King William for a considerable period after the queen's death, and adopted as a convenient costume ever since . There is a well-known jest of Chief Baron See also:Pollock to the effect that " the Bar went into mourning at the death of Queen Anne, and never came out again," which bears out this theory as to the origin of the costume . At the present time barristers wear black stuff gowns, with small wigs having three rows of curls round the head . King's Counsel wear black silk gowns over a cloth court suit (cp. the expression " to take silk," i.e. to become a K.C.); on full-dress occasions they wear a full-bottomed wig, and at court a black damask tufted gown over a velvet court suit . This is also the dress for state occasions of the Attorney-General, Solicitor-General, &c . Municipal and Civic Robes.—The word " livery," the use of which is now practically confined to the costume of the " livery companies," the dress of men-servants, &c., originally meant an. See also:allowance of See also:food or clothing granted to certain persons (See also:Lat. liberata, Fr. livree) . It is still used of the allowances of food made to the See also:fellows of certain colleges . As early as the 13th century, according to Matt . Paris (Chron . Maj.; Rolls Series, III . 337), we find the citizens of London assuming a uniform dress to do honour to some great occasion, as, e.g., when in 1236 a body of them rode out to meet Henry III. and Queen Eleanor, " sericis vestimentis ornati, cicladibus auro textis circumdati, excogitatis mutatoriis amicti," or when 600 citizens rode out to meet Queen Margaret, wife of Edward I., " in one livery of red and white, with the cognizances of their misteries embroidered upon their sleeves " (see Stow's Survey, ed . See also:Morley, p . 444) . By the 14th century there is See also:evidence of the See also:adoption of liveries by the trades and See also:fraternities . At the celebrations of the See also:birth of Edward III . (see See also:Riley's Memorials, p . 105) the See also:mayor and aldermen were " richly arrayed in suits of robes," while the drapers, mercers and vintners were also " in costume." This need not, however, refer to liveries . G . Unwin (The See also:Gilds of London, 1908) quotes a chronicler who records that by the year 1319 " many of the See also:people of the trades of London were arrayed in livery," and an See also:ordinance of 1347 of the fraternity of the Mercers commanding that " all those of the said mistery shall be clothed of one suit once a year at the feast of See also:Easter," and Riley (op.cit. p . 516) quotes an order of 1389 allowing the sheriffs, on grounds of expense, to proceed to Westminster by See also:boat instead of on horseback, " without there being any arraying of men of the trades in like suit for that purpose; except that such men of the trades as should wish to accompany them should walk in such suit of vestments of the livery of their respective See also:trade as they might then have." As to the liveries of the religious fraternities, Chaucer (Prod . 361) describes: " An See also:Haberdasher and a See also:Carpenter A See also:Webbe, a Dyere, and a Tapicer," As, " clothed alle in a liveree Of a solempne and greet fraternitee." In 1389 there was a See also:petition against the giving of liveries by the fraternities, on the ground that these gatherings were centres of See also:political agitation, but in the statutes of Edward III. and Richard II. against liveries members of guilds were expressly excepted from these prohibitions . However, it was doubtless deemed prudent to make sure of the See also:privilege, and so, when the livery companies were incorporated, they took care to have their liveries authorized by their charters . These liveries consisted of a gown and hood; though the hood only was sometimes given; thus the Grocers' See also:Company had in 1430 55 members in the full livery, 17 in hoods and 42 not in livery . It was also customary for such of the companies as wished it to present liveries to outsiders, for instance, to the mayor, should he belong to another company . Thus in 1399 the Tailors gave liveries to the king, the See also:prince and the mayor, and hoods to the sheriffs . But in 1415 and 1423 the mayor and aldermen were forbidden to receive any livery except that of their own company . A similar custom was that by which a member of any company might send to the mayor a certain sum, receiving in return a suit of the livery of the mayor's company . The colours of the various liveries varied very much from time to time . Thus in 1414 the Grocers wore liveries of scarlet and green, which were' changed in 1418 to scarlet and black, in 1428 to scarlet and blue and in 1450 to " violet in grain," with party-coloured hoods of violet and crimson . At first both gowns and hoods were party-coloured, but later a party-coloured hood was worn with a gown of one colour . The gowns were also lined and edged with ft' fur . An early illustration of the liveries is to be found on the first charter of the Leathersellers' Company, granted them in 1444 by Henry VI., where the members of the company are depicted kneeling before the king in short party-coloured gowns of red and blue, edged at the neck, wrists and round the bottom with fur and with white girdles (see fig . 4, from a coloured See also:reproduction in W . H . Black's History and Antiquities of the Leathersellers' Co.) . In the reign of Henry VIII., See also:Holbein's picture of the king giving a charter to the See also:Barber-Surgeons' Company shows the members of the latter wearing gowns of rich stuff, with red and black party-coloured hoods, three of the figures also in coifs . The form of gown which has survived, practically unchanged, till the present day; may be seen on the second charter of the Leathersellers' Company, granted them by James I. in 1604 (see fig . 5, and for coloured plate see W . H . Black, op. cit.) . Here we see them in See also:flat caps, long black furred gowns, with false sleeves, and having on the right shoulder party-coloured hoodsof scarlet and black, the end of which is :See also:cast over the left shoulder and hangs. down nearly to the edge of the gown . Besides the liveries of the city companies, and those of the mayor and sheriffs, there was often a See also:special livery adopted by all the citizens on some great occasion, such as a visit of the sovereign to the City . W . St John Hope (See also:Corporation Plate and Insignia, ii . 141) - quotes a number of such cases, showing that the city livery was sometimes green, sometimes blue, sometimes violet, some-times red and - white, the city colours See also:par ex- cellence ... - As to the costume of the mayor; aldermen, sheriffs, &c., we have seen above the mayor " richly costumed,", and the See also:alder-men " in like suits of robes," at the birth of Edward' See also:IlI., and Riley (op. cit.) gives an order of 1378, that the aldermen are to ride to Westminster in the mayor's proces- See also:sion, " arrayed in a cloak and hood at least, that are party-coloured with red, scarlet and white, the red on the right side "; while he quotes (from Letter-book H. fol. cxlvi) the amusing sentence passed by his See also:fellow-aldermen in 1382 on one John Seley, for disregarding the order to have his green cloak for the Whitsuntide procession lined with green taffeta . Thus before the 15th century the aldermen apparently had not yet their scarlet robes, but on state occasions wore the ordinary city livery . For the early 15th century we have the Liber Albus . (written c . 1419; Rolls Series, ed . Riley), where we are told (p . 35) that " The Mayor, See also:Sheriff and Aldermen were wont to array themselves in like suits of robes twice in the year, viz. when the mayor rode to Westminster to take the See also:oath, and on the day following the feast of SS . 
See also:Simon and See also:Jude; and this raiment was trimmed with fur as befitting their See also:honourable rank; and they would also dress themselves in suits of robes against the feast of See also:Pentecost, these robes having a lining of silk." The scarlet, violet and black robes, still worn by the Lord Mayor, aldermen, &c., were early in use . There is an order of 1421 (8 Henry V.) that the aldermen should use " togis etarmilausis de scarleto," and in numerous accounts of royal receptions and other solemn occasions in the City we are told that the mayor and alder-men were in scarlet (W . St John Hope, in Corporation `Plate and Insignia, i,, Introd. laxity seq., and ii . 138–147, quotes a number of these, and treats the whole subject of mayors', &c., robes very fully) . The Liber Albus (i. ch. vi.) also shows us the mayor and alder, men assembled at the See also:Guildhall on the day of the See also:election of the new mayorinduli togis de violet . As to the form of the dress in the 14th and 15th century, we can see from brasses of lord mayors and aldermen (see Haines, See also:Manual, pp. cc–cci ; and See also:Cotman, Norfolk Brasses . - There is a See also:fine series of brasses of mayors, &c., at See also:Norwich) that it consisted of a long gown, a mantle fastened on the right shoulder and a hood . As to the provincial mayors and aldermen there is evidence that at quite an early date many of them followed the fashion of London; e.g. the Royal Charter of See also:Nottingham, of 1448, contains the words: " that the Aldermen of the same See also:town forever . . . may use gowns, hoods and cloaks of one suit and one livery together with furs and linings suitable to these cloaks, in the same manner and form as the Mayor and Aldermen of our city of London do use, the See also:Statute of Liveries . . . notwithstanding " (see Nottingham Records, ii . 205), while the charter granted by Henry VI. to See also:Kingston-on-See also:Hull in 1440 contains practically the same words (see St J . Hope, i. lxxxvi) . The costume of provincial mayors, &c., is shown by St John Hope (loc. cit.) to have generally consisted of a scarlet furred gown and cloak, with tippet or See also:scarf of black velvet . The colour was not, however, invariably scarlet, but varied to violet, blue and, black, sometimes even for the mayor . An account of the robes of modern provincial mayors will be found in St J . Hope, p. lxxxix seq. and under the accounts of the various boroughs, passim . There is some doubt as to when the Lord Mayor first began to wear his robe of estate of crimson velvet . Stow (Survey, ed . See also:Strype, 1720, ii . 165) says that at the reception of Henry VI. at Eltham the mayor was in crimson velvet, the aldermen in scarlet with " sanguine " hoods, but at the coronation of Edward V . (see 'St J . Hope) he wore scarlet . At the coronation of Anne Boleyn (see Wriothesley's Chronicle, loc. cit. supr., and Hall's Chronicle) the mayor wore his crimson velvet robe of state, the aldermen and sheriffs scarlet; and at the entry of Anne of See also:Cleves into London the mayor was again in his crimson velvet robe with his collar of gold, the aldermen and councilmen in robes of black velvet with chains of gold (but see St J . Hope, ii . 144, who quotes the order for, these same robes, from which it would appear that the mayor also wore black velvet) . About this period begin to occur notices of the wearing of official robes by the wives of mayors and aldermen; e.g. for See also:Lincoln there is an entry in the corporation records in 1544: " Every See also:alderman that hath not been mayor to prepare for himself and his wife gowns of crimson, and every one that hath been mayor to prepare for himself and his wife gowns of scarlet and tippets of velvet to be worn at all principal feasts" (see 14th See also:report,Hist . MSS . Commiss . App.VIII) . St John Hope (p. lxxxix) quotes numerous instances in the 16th century, in some of which the See also:husband was liable to a heavy fine in the event of his wife's non-compliance with the rule . In 1568 (see Stow, and J . G . Nichols, Account of 55 Royal See also:Pro-cessions and Entertainments, pt. ii. p . 94) first appeared an Order observed by my Lord Mayor, Aldermen and Sheriffs, for their meetings and wearing the apparel throughout the whole year, according as formerly it hath been used," which has been altered and revised from time to time by order of the Corporation, and is still issued under the name of the Handbook of Ceremonials to the officers of the City Corporation . In 1568 we find the aldermen and sheriffs going to Westminster in the Lord Mayor's procession in scarlet-furred gowns " and their cloaks borne with them," and in 1575 Nichols quotes a London See also:citizen's description of the same procession; they of the livery in their long gowns, with hood on the left shoulder, half black and half red . . The Mayor in a long gown of scarlet, and on his left shoulder a hood of black velvet, and a collar of SS . . . The Aldermen in scarlet gowns, those having been mayors with chains of gold, the other's with black velvet tippets." The Order of 1629 gives particulars of the various gowns; the cloaks are violet from Michaelmas to Whitsuntide, furred, for mayors and ex-mayors, with " amys," for aldermen with " calabre," and scarlet in summer, lined with " changeable taffety " and " green taffety " respectively . After the 16th century the costume of the Lord Mayor can be studied in successive " Orders or Ceremonial Books, accounts of coronations, &c., and in portraits and statues belonging to the various city companies . Early in the 19th century (18o6) the Lord Mayor began to wear on some state occasions a black robe. with gold lace, similar to that of the Lord Chancellor . The Ceremonial Book was thoroughly revised in 1864, and the latest edition is that issued in 1906 (Handbook of Ceremonials, &c., " issued under the direction and with the approval of the Privileges See also:Committee of the Court of Aldermen ") . At the present day the Lord Mayor has several sets of robes; a special coronation robe (see illustration in Naylor, Book of the Coronation of George IV., 1837), a crimson velvet robe of state like that of an earl, worn with the chain and See also:jewel, e.g. in the presence of the sovereign when in the city;' a black robe of state trimmed with gold, which is worn with the chain and jewel, e.g. at the Guildhall on Lord Mayor's Day; the scarlet robes, which are worn, with or without the chain, on most public occasions, such as the service at St See also:Paul's on the first day of the Easter Law Term, audiences of the sovereign, the election of the Lord Mayor, the opening of the Central Criminal Court, &c.; a violet gown, which is worn, e.g., when the Lord Mayor elect is presented to the king, when he is sworn in, at the election of sheriffs, &c., and a black gown worn in church on See also:Good See also:Friday, &c . The aldermen wear scarlet on most occasions of ceremony, ex-mayors " having the Cap of Dignity attached to their gown, and being entitled to introduce a sword and See also:mace into their badges." Violet robes are also worn on certain occasions marked in the See also:almanac of the Alder-See also:man's See also:Pocket-Book; and black gowns when the Lord Mayor wears his . The sheriffs and recorders' have scarlet, violet ' Sir G . G . See also:Young in a pamphlet called The See also:Place of the Lord Mayor in proceeding through or within the City of London (1852), quotes various royal visits to the city which seem to show that the Lord Mayor did not always wear his crimson velvet robe on these occasions . Thus in 1638 Charles I., on going to meet See also:Marie de Medicis, was met by the Lord Mayor in scarlet, which was also worn at the entry of Charles II. in 166o . In 1702, when Q'ieen Anne went to a thanks-giving service at St Paul's, the Lord Mayor wore crimson velvet, with the collar and jewel; but in 1705, at the thanksgiving after See also:Blenheim, he met the queen on horseback, dressed ip scarlet . In 1714, at the reception of George I., the Lord Mayor wore crimson velvet robes . 2 The recorders had from an early date See also:annual suits of robes like the mayor, aldermen, &c . See Liber Albus, p . 43: " Habet itaque Recordator pro feodo de See also:Camera totiens et talem vesturam lineatam sive penulatum, quotiens et qualem See also:Major et Aldermanni capiunt annuatim." The chamberlain, common serjeant, &c., had also gowns (see an order of 1523 in St J . Hope, ii . 146) . For the sword-bearer's cap of See also:maintenance see article See also:CAr and St John413 and black gowns, and the members of the common council have deep mazarine blue gowns, which seem to have been first prescribed in 1761 . For Scotland an order of James I. and VI. of 16ro (see Register of Privy Council, loc. cit.) ordered that the provosts, aldermen, &c., of every See also:borough should wear, for ordinary occasions, black furred gowns, the officers of the chief boroughs having also scarlet furred gowns for Sundays and other solemn occasions, when the See also:provost of See also:Edinburgh was to wear a gold chain . Academic Costume.—No thorough study has so far been made of early English academic costume as compared with that of the See also:continental universities—a study which ought to throw much light on the subject.' A vexed question is that of how far academic dress is derived from the ecclesiastical . See also:Anthony See also:Wood's view, that it was derived from the tunica talaris and cucullus of the See also:Benedictines, would not now meet with much support; but many writers seem to be unnecessarily anxious to trace each See also:item of the academic robes to some definite ecclesiastical garment . The See also:medieval See also:scholar was of course a clerk, and had to wear the clerkly gown and the tonsure . But the fact that this was the case makes it more difficult to distinguish between academical and ecclesiastical robes, notably in the case of brasses and other monuments of university graduates and dignitaries who were also priests . Another source of difficulty is the variety of names by which the different parts of the academic costume are called in the university statutes and elsewhere, resulting sometimes in inextricable confusion . The earliest See also:information as to English academic dress is found in the second half of the 14th century . Certain early statutes show that " excess in apparel " had already to be rebuked in scholars (cf. the Constitution of See also:Archbishop See also:Stratford, 1342), while the statutes of certain colleges' require of the scholars the tonsure and a " decent habit " suitable to a clerk (cf . Statutes of Peterhouse, 1344, and of Merton See also:Coll., See also:Oxford), i.e. a long gown (toga or tunica talaris), which it is stipulated in some cases must be closed in front . Some colleges had liveries, prescribed perhaps by the founder of the college and laid down by the statutes . The See also:differences of colour and shape in the undergraduate gowns of most of the Cambridge colleges are supposed to be a survival of this . There was also an ordinance of Richard II. for King's Hall, Cambridge (1379), which fixed the dress of a scholar as the roba talaris, over which, if a See also:bachelor, he 'should wear a tabard suited to his degree . The under-graduates seem in the early days to have worn a hood, the ordinary head-covering worn by all, but they gradually ceased to do so, until nobody below the rank of a bachelor might wear one . It is proposed to give here (I) a list of the various parts of the academic dress, with a few remarks on each; (2) a short account of the early costume of the various degrees; (3) a See also:sketch of any changes which have taken place since the See also:Reformation . The Gown (toga, roba, or tunica talaris) was worn by all degrees, as befitting clerks . It is hard to determine whether there was at first any difference between the gown of the higher degrees, which some maintain was the roba, and that of the See also:lower degrees, the toga or tunica talaris, but it seems improbable . It was frequently fur-lined, but the use of the more costly furs was forbidden to all below the degree of Master, except sons of noblemen, or those possessing a certain income, bachelors using budge (see in See also:Anstey's Munimenta Academica, p . 301, the Hope i. lxxvi–ixxix . For mayor's and sheriff's chains see ibid. pp. ixxix–ixxxiv . 3 Practically the only detailed study of early English academic costume is a See also:paper on " English Academic Costume (Medieval)," by Dr E . C . Clark, in Archaeolog . Journal, vol . I. pp . 74 seq., 137 seq. and 183 seq., which contains a mass of information, and upon which the present article is to a great extent based . Rashdall (Universities of See also:Europe in the Middle Ages, vol. ii. pt. ii.) and Druitt (Costume on Brasses, ch. ii.) each devote a See also:chapter to the subject; Rashdall treats of both the English and continental universities, not very thoroughly, Druitt of English academic dress only, but thoroughly . Clark gives many facts about See also:foreign, as well as the English, costume . statute of 1432 de admissione ad pelluram) . Students, and even doctors in See also:theology (See also:Mun . Acad. ii . 393), were also restricted to budge, and to sad-coloured habits . The robes of masters were to be flowing and reach to the ankles (see Mun . Acad. p . 212, an order of 1358 to the tailors not to stint the robes, which should be " largae et talares," because clerks should be distinguished from the laity) . The COPE, worn as part of academic dress over the gown, probably originated in the ordinary cappa clericalis, or every-day mantle of the clergy, which had been introduced into general use in England by synods of 1222, 1237 and 1268.1 This kind of cope, closed in front, and originally black in colour, is generally known as the cappa clausa, and sometimes, for convenience' sake, had a slit in front to allow of the passage of the hands . It was worn by See also:Regent Masters when lecturing (15th century) . (Mun . Acad. p . 421) and as a full dress by certain doctors . By the second half of the 14th century differences of colour occur; e.g. the Chancellor represented in a 14th-century See also:miniature in the Oxford Chancellor's Book (reproduced by J . W .
See also:Wells, The Oxford Degree Ceremony (1906), facing p
.
19) wears a scarlet cope closed in front, lined with miniver and with tippet and hood of miniver, and there is also a mention in an ancient statute of Cambridge of a red cope worn by Inceptors in See also:Canon Law (Clark, p
.
102)
.
The Rev
.
N
.
F
.
See also:Robinson (loc. cit. p
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195) quotes the will of R
.
See also: 138) gives as evidence " Stokys' picture " in the Cambridge Registrary . The scarlet cappa clausa has 1 See Rev . T . A . Lacey in Transactions of the St Paul's Ecclesiological Society, vol. iv . (1900), p . 128, &c . Also Rev . N . F . Robinson in the same (1898), pp . 181–220.survived to the present day at Cambridge as the dress worn by the Vice-Chancellor and by Regius Professors of Divinity, Law and See also:Medicine when presenting for degrees . It is now open down the front, but the fur edging only reaches half-way down, marking the place where the slit used to be . At Oxford the so-called " cope " which is the See also:Convocation robe of certain doctors is not a real cope, but is probably derived from the medieval tabard, the out-of-See also:door dress worn by the clergy and others, it having become customary by the beginning of the 16th century for Regent Masters to wear the tabard at lectures as more convenient than the cope (Rashdall, II. ii . 639, and Mun . Acad. p . 421, where the See also:pallium is spoken of as an alternative to the cappa clausa . The pallium is most probably to be identified with the tabard) ? The capa manicata mentioned in Anstey (Mun . Acad. p . 421, &c.) seems to have been a shorter gown with See also:bell-shaped sleeves reaching to the See also:elbow, and lined with fur, worn by masters and bachelors of arts (see Druitt, p . 124), and a shorter tabard is also occasionally found (Robinson's Taberdum ad medias tibias) . These are illustrated in fig . 6 from a MS. of the 15th century at New College, Oxford.3 The D.D.'s wear the cappa clausa, the other doctors tabards (see also pl. iii., xvi..in Archaeologia, where William of Wykeham and all the doctors wear long sweeping tabards, as ample as copes), the See also:Warden a shorter tabard, reaching just below the knees, and the M.A.'s gowns or tabards with false sleeves . The Hoon was originally worn by all scholars, as by every-body, and had evidently no academic significance . Sometimes a cap was also worn, the hood being thrown back (Chaucer's " clerk of See also:Oxenford " in the Ellesmere MS. illumination wears a red skull-cap, and a furred tippet and hood, with the hood falling rather back, though not on his shoulders) . The liripipe4 became somewhat elongated, as is seen in the hoods of the so-called M.A. See also:group in the See also:Chandler MS . An early mention of the undergraduate hood is the much-discussed Oxford Statute of 1489 (Mun . Acad. p . 36o), which reads: " ut nullus de cetero scholaris non-graduatus (See also:nobili sanguine insignitis &c. exceptis) capitio quovis utatur publice . . . nisi liripipium consutum habeat et non contextum, See also:prout antiqua Universitatis laudabilis consuetudo exposcit .. s but the undergraduate 2 Clark (pp . 138–39) treats of the See also:pall'ium and tabard as two See also:separate garments, deciding that the pallium was a kind of tippet . Robinson considers the pallium to correspond to the tabard, his taberdum talare, which the Rev . T . A . Lacey (p . 128) also compares with the chimere of See also:Anglican bishops . (See article CHIMERE, where the chimere is likewise traced to the tabard.) See also:Moroni, Dizionario dell' erudizione storica-ecclesiastica, s.v. zimarra, says that professors of the university of See also:Rome wear black zimarre while teaching . This recalls the pallium of Regent Masters (Mun . Acad. p . 42I) and Inceptors in arts and medicine (id. p . 430) . 3 The Chandler MS . The drawings from which the illustration is taken are reproduced in the Transactions of the St Paul's Ecctesiological Society, p . 208, with an explanatory article by the Rev . N . F . Robinson, and in Archaeologia, vol . H. pl. i., with notes by T . F . See also:Kirby . Robinson identifies the various See also:groups of the Society of New College on his plate i . (xv. in Archaeol.) by the aid of a statute of the College settling the order of See also:standing in See also:choir and at processions, and thus claims to See also:settle the question of the dress of the various kinds of Doctor and Bachelor, M.A.'s, &c., at the period . 4 In the present article " liripipe " will be used of the tail of the hood, " tippet " of the shoulder-cape, sometimes forming part of the same garment as the hood, sometimes not, and " scarf " of the " tippet " or scarf, e.g. of D.D.'s, Anglican clergy . " that no non-See also:graduate scholar (with the usual exceptions of noblemen, &c.) shall wear any kind of hood in public, unless it have the liripipe sewn on, and not See also:woven in one piece, as the ancient and See also:venerable custom of the university demands." The meaning of this is not clear; Anstey (marginal See also:note ad loc.) takes it to mean that the tail of the hood should be sewn to the hood; others that the tail of the hood should be sewn down to the gown; cf . Chaucer, Prol. to Canon's, See also:Yeoman's Tale: " Till that I understood How that his cloke was sowed to his hood, For which, whan I hadde long avysed me, I demed him some Chanoun for to be," which shows that this method of sewing the hood, whatever it were, was used to define rank; others again hold that " liripipium" here means a tippet or shoulder-cape, and that for some See also:reason the hood was to be sewn to the tippet and not made all in one piece with it . Rashdall reads " consuetum " instead of " consutum " (footnote ii: p . 641) . The Constitution of Archbishop See also:Bourchier (1463) forbids undergraduates to use liripipes or " tippets " round the neck in public (Clark, p . 85), so the sewing down of the liripipe at the back may hood had gone out of use by the end of the 16th century." Bachelors' hoods were to be lined throughout with fur (Mun . Acad. p . 361), which we learn from the statute de admissione ad pelluram (1432) to have been budge . Masters and noblemen might use miniver, or silk in summer (Mun . Acad. pp . 283, 301) . ' There were evidently hoods of at least two kinds for masters, sometimes called respectively caputium and epomis, whether corresponding to the distinction between regents and non-regents we do not know . (See Mun . Acad. p . 638, will of Thomas See also:Bray, M.A., and Robinson, loc. cit . In the Oxford Corpus Statutorum of 1768 the epomis is worn with the ordinary gown, the caputium with the scarlet habit.) At a later date, at Cambridge, a distinction was made between the hoods of non-regents, which were lined with silk, and those of regents, which were lined with miniver ? Later again the regents wore their hoods in such a way as to show the white lining, while the non-regents wore theirs " squared," so that the white did not show . Hence the name " White Hoods " and " Black Hoods " given to the upper and lower houses of the old See also:Senate respectively . It is not settled when the modern colourings of hoods arose; they probably followed those of the gowns of the faculties, but about these we are equally uncertain . The Oxford See also:Proctor still wears a miniver hood . The modern Cambridge hood has preserved the See also:original shape more closely than the Oxford one, being a hood and tippet combined, the hood having square corners . The tippet, which appears as part of the early costume of certain doctors, was probably, like the judges' tippet, originally the shoulder-cape forming part of the same garment as the hood . Clark and others would derive it from the See also:almuce (q.v.), but do not seem to show any definite grounds for so doing . Its place seems to have been taken by the scarf worn by D.D.'s, &c., probably See also:developed from the hood with long liripipe as worn turban-wise on the head or as a scarf round the shoulders . It seems rather far-fetched to derive the scarf from the two pendants of the almuce .3 (See article VESTMENTS and cp. the mayor's scarf mentioned above.) There seem to have been at least three varieties of academic head-dress :4 firstly, the doctor's skull-cap with " See also:apex " as illustrated in the Chandler MS. drawings; secondly, the square cap of cloth as prescribed by See also:Laud's statutes of 1636 for graduates and foundation scholars (similarly for Cambridge by Burleigh's letter to the vice-chancellor in 1588), with its counterpart of velvet worn by doctors; thirdly, a round cloth cap prescribed by the Laudian statutes and Burleigh's letter for undergraduates who were not foundation scholars, with the round cap of velvet for doctors which survives as part of their full dress to the present day . The square cap was adopted at the universities, according to Robinson, after 1520, in See also:imitation of the university of Paris . For the development of the modern college cap," see See also:BIRETTA . In this connexion should be mentioned the term tuft-See also:hunting," i.e. attempting to thrust oneself into the society of one's social superiors, derived from the gold tufts or tassel worn by noblemen and fellow-commoners on their college caps . As to the dresses of the different degrees, the drawings from the Chandler MS. give a good See also:idea of the early costume . It is also have been to prevent this improper use as a scarf . But in this case, what is the force of " et non contexlum " ? " An interesting survival, which only disappeared about the middle of the 19th century, was the little black hood placed round the neck of candidates going in for viva voce in all See also:examinations subsequent to responsions at Oxford . This was a survival of the custom of conferring on sophistae generates, i.e. those who had passed the first See also:stage of the exercises for the B.A. degree, a hood of plain black cloth . See A . Clark's Introduction to the Registers of Oxford University, vol. ii. pt. i. p . 22 (Oxford Hist . Soc., 1887) . z See See also:Caius' Statutes (1557), also an account of the entertainments at Cambridge on the visit of Queen Elizabeth, 1564, given in Nichols, Progresses, vol. iii., " Theologiae Baccalaureos ac non-Regentes primum, sericis caputiis induti, turn Regentes Magistri suis pelliceis albescentibus decorati; tandem See also:Juris Artiumque Baccalaureos suis agninis bracceis conspicui." ' See Rev . E . Wickham Legg in Trans. of St Paul's See also:Eccles . Soc. vol. iii . Also Lacey and Robinson (loc. cit.) . 4 The subject is discussed in detail by Clark, " College Caps and Doctors' Hats," in Archaeol . Journal, vol. lxi., and N . F . Robinson, " Pileus Quadratus," in Transact. of St Paul's Ecclesiological Socy., vol . V. pt. i . (1901) . There is also much See also:miscellaneous information in C . See also:Wordsworth, University See also:Life in the x8th Century, p . 499 seq.415 well illustrated by brasses.' Doctors of theology seem to have worn a tippet but no hood . Masters of Arts seem to have worn a gown, over which was a garment with bell-shaped sleeves reaching to the elbow, a tippet and a hood (see Druitt, plate facing p . 136, and p . 135) . The same dress was sometimes worn by B.A.'s (see brass of John See also:Palmer, B.A., d . 1479, New College, Oxford, in Druitt, p . 141), and bachelors of law and divinity, the latter being generally already M.A.'s (Druitt, p . 139) . Haines's theory is that after the middle of the 15th century the dress of the M.A.'s was changed, and they wore a sleeveless tabard reaching to midway between See also:ankle and See also:knee . This costume certainly occurs on brasses, chiefly of the 16th or late 15th centuries, but the See also:change is hard to explain c Academic dress underwent much inquiry and some revision at the time of the Reformation, chiefly in the direction of sobriety and uniformity, " excess of apparel " being repressed as severely as ever, but not with much more effect .? Burleigh's letter to the Vice-Chancellor of Cambridge University (1585), and the statutes of Queen Elizabeth, strictly enforce the wearing of cap and gown by all, and hoods and habits by those entitled to wear them, and similar regulations were made for Oxford by Laud's statutes of 1633, further details being dealt with by a decree of 177o . Academic dress during the 17th century may be further studied in Bedel See also:Buck's book (1665, see Appendix B. to See also:Peacock, Observations on the Statutes of the University of Cambridge), and Loggan's plates of academic costume in Oxonia Illustrate (1675) and Cantabrigia Illustrata (169o, ed . J . W . Clark, 1905) . There have been few far-reaching changes since Loggan's day . Cambridge has of late years inquired into and revised her regulations as to dress, and in the Ordinances (latest ed . 1908, Statute A, cap . VII. p . 303) clear rules are laid down; the Oxford regulations (see Statute et Decreta Univ . Oxon . See for doctors' costume, J . G. and L . A . B . See also:Waller's Series of Monumental Brasses (London, 1864), plate of " Four Ecclesiastics, from New College, Oxford, who are also illustrated in Druitt, pp . 131, 129, 119; and for M.A.'s and B.A.'s, Druitt, p . 135 seq. and plate facing p . 136 . On the brass of John Lowthe, D.C.L., should be noticed the two curious long streamers or liripipes hanging from the back of his tabard or hood . It is hard to say what they can be; but the closest parallel is in the two streamers on the backgf the old Oxford commoners' gown, which were probably survivals of sleeves . They are said to have given rise to the term " plucking," i.e. failing in examination, the See also:story being that a man's creditors might assemble at the conferring of degrees, and by " plucking " at his gown prevent him from going up for his degree . ' It is just possible that this sleeved garment may be the caps manicata mentioned in Mun . Acad. p . 421, " nullus regens in artibus ... in capa manicata lectiones legat ordinarias, sed in pallio vel capa clausa." Clark (pp . 188, 189, &c.) identifies the cappa manicata with the tabard, but if, as suggested above, the pallium is the tabard, the cappa manicata cannot be the same . Braun, Liturgische Gewandung, p . 308, shows that a sleeved cope, called cappa manicata, did develop from the cappa clericalis or everyday cope of the clergy, at the end of the 12th century, its use being forbidden by various synods . It is possible, then, that the caps manicata may have been worn by non-regents, the tabard (which Haines alleges to have been adopted generally by M.A.'s in the late 15th century), or pallium, by regents . 7 The essential parts of Laud's statutes, Burleigh's letter, &e., with much other matter bearing on academic costume from the 16th century onwards, will be found in C . Wordsworth's University Life in the 18th Century (London and Cambridge, 1874, p . 485 seq.) . To the passages quoted by him may be added the following from Johannis Bereblocs See also:Commentarii, an See also:eye-See also:witness's account of Queen Elizabeth's visit to Oxford in 1566 (published in Elizabethan Oxford, ed . C . Plummer, Oxford Hist . Soc., 1887) ; at one of the disputations Mr . See also:Campion, M.A., was dressed as follows: " Toga illi tum Dalmatica talaris fuit, manicis remissis ac largitate sua diffluentibus . Huic pallium inductum est undique consutum, praeter quam qua dextro patebant aditus . Postremo erant humeri superius pellibus albis, candoreque lucentibus, redimiti . Atque hic turn habitus fuit omnium magistrorum, praeterquam quod nonnulli, loco`palludamenti illius pellicei, serico utebantur, omni colore variegato." This points to the wide-sleeved gown, tabard and hood as the dress of masters, but the colour of the hood was evidently not fixed . For Doctor White, D.C.L., " ei vestis Dalmatica fuerat talaris, ex electiori et clarissima See also:purpura ; lato clavo coccineo superius induebatur, additum postremo humeris paludamentum est ejusdem coloris, cum serico subtegmine, similique turn vestiti habitu omnes Doctores sedebant." Here vestis Dalmatica would be the ordinary gown, clavus latus the scarlet gown, and aludamentum the hood, as before . For costume up to the middle of the 19th century see See also:Wall-See also:Gunning, Ceremonies observed in the Senate House at Cambridge (1828) . for Igog, Tit. xiv., de vestitu et habitu, pp . 327-328) have not been revised lately, and some of them are a dead letter, Doctors of both universities have three sets of robes: firstly, the full-dress gown of scarlet cloth; secondly, the See also:congregation habit and hood of scarlet (now at Cambridge a cope, at Oxford the so-called " cope" ); thirdly, the black gown . The first is worn by all doctors except the doctor of See also:music, and is accompanied by the round cap of velvet . The Oxford D.D. also wears a See also:cassock, See also:sash and scarf . The scarlet gown is of a different and older shape than the M.A. andB.A. gowns . As now worn, it is faced with silk of the same colour as the hood of the See also:faculty . The second, or cope, has now gone almost out of use, but is still worn when presenting for degrees, &c . It is sometimes worn over the black gown . There are several types of black gown, but the tufted gown of Loggan's day has now gone out of use . The M.D. and See also:Mus.D. black gowns at Cambridge are now made after the See also:pattern of the LL.D. gown, with wing-like See also:sleeve and flap collar, trimmed with black lace, but the D.D., D.Sc. and Litt.D. wear the M.A. gown, the former with the scarf, the two latter with lace on the sleeve, placed horizontally for D.Sc. and vertically for Litt.D . Some doctors of divinity wear the full-sleeved gown with scarf . The head-dress of a D.D. is the square cap, that of the See also:lay doctors the velvet See also:bonnet with gold cord . At Oxford, too, some doctors wear the M.A. gown, others the doctor's laced gown . The M.A. and B.A. gowns are two varieties of the civilian gown of the 15th and 16th century . The B.A. loose-sleeved gown is no longer worn with the sleeve tucked up round the elbow . The Oxford sleeveless commoner's gown, though still by statute talaris, now reaches little below the See also:waist, the full-sleeved scholar's gown to the knees . The tufted silk gown of the See also:gentleman-commoner and the nobleman's gold-laced • gown are not yet abolished by statute, but have fallen into disuse . Vice-Chancellors have no official costume, but wear the habit of their degree . The Chancellors of the older universities wear a black damask robe with gold lace, and a black velvet square cap with gold tassel or a doctor's velvet bonnet with gold cord; those of the newer universities have robes "created " by the robe-makers, who are nowadays to a large extent the arbiters of academic dress . For the colours of the hoods of the various university degrees see UNIVERSITIES ad fin . (C . B . |
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