See also:TARTAN (from F. tiretaine, " linsie-wolsie," Sp. tiritana, a See also:kind of woollen See also:cloth, perhaps so called from its thinness and lightness, cf. Sp. tiritar, to tremble with See also:cold)
, a worsted See also:cloth See also:woven with alternate stripes or bands of coloured warp and weft, so as to See also:form a chequered See also:pattern in which the See also:colours alternate in " sets " of definite width and sequence
.
The See also:weaving of particoloured and striped cloth cannot be claimed as See also:peculiar to any See also:special See also:race or See also:country, for indeed such checks are the simplest ornamental form into which dyed yarns can be combined in the See also:loom
.
But the See also:term See also:tartan is specially applied to the variegated cloth used for the See also:principal portions of the distinctive See also:costume of the Highlanders of See also:Scotland
.
For this costume, and the tartan of which it is composed, See also:great antiquity is claimed, and it is asserted that the numerous clans into which the Highland See also:population were divided had each from See also:- TIME (0. Eng. Lima, cf. Icel. timi, Swed. timme, hour, Dan. time; from the root also seen in " tide," properly the time of between the flow and ebb of the sea, cf. O. Eng. getidan, to happen, " even-tide," &c.; it is not directly related to Lat. tempus)
- TIME, MEASUREMENT OF
- TIME, STANDARD
time to time a special tartan by which it was distinguished
.
After the See also:rebellion of 1945 various acts of See also:parliament were passed for disarming the Scottish Highlanders and for prohibiting the use of the Highland See also:dress in Scotland, under severe penalties
.
These acts remained nominally in force till 1782, when they were formally repealed, and since that time See also:clan tartan has, with varying fluctuations of See also:fashion, been a popular See also:article of dress, by no means confined in its use to Scotland alone; and many new and imaginary " sets " have been invented by manufacturers, with the result of introducing confusion in the See also:heraldry of tartans, and of throwing doubt on the reality of the distinctive " sets " which at one time undoubtedly were more or less recognized as the badge of various clans
.
Undoubtedly the term tartan was known, and the material was woven, " of one or two colours for the poor and more varied for the See also:rich," as See also:early as the See also:middle of the 15th See also:century
.
In the accounts of See also:John, See also:bishop of See also:Glasgow, treasurer to See also:- KING
- KING (O. Eng. cyning, abbreviated into cyng, cing; cf. O. H. G. chun- kuning, chun- kunig, M.H.G. kiinic, kiinec, kiinc, Mod. Ger. Konig, O. Norse konungr, kongr, Swed. konung, kung)
- KING [OF OCKHAM], PETER KING, 1ST BARON (1669-1734)
- KING, CHARLES WILLIAM (1818-1888)
- KING, CLARENCE (1842–1901)
- KING, EDWARD (1612–1637)
- KING, EDWARD (1829–1910)
- KING, HENRY (1591-1669)
- KING, RUFUS (1755–1827)
- KING, THOMAS (1730–1805)
- KING, WILLIAM (1650-1729)
- KING, WILLIAM (1663–1712)
King See also:- JAMES
- JAMES (Gr. 'IlrKw,l3or, the Heb. Ya`akob or Jacob)
- JAMES (JAMES FRANCIS EDWARD STUART) (1688-1766)
- JAMES, 2ND EARL OF DOUGLAS AND MAR(c. 1358–1388)
- JAMES, DAVID (1839-1893)
- JAMES, EPISTLE OF
- JAMES, GEORGE PAYNE RAINSFOP
- JAMES, HENRY (1843— )
- JAMES, JOHN ANGELL (1785-1859)
- JAMES, THOMAS (c. 1573–1629)
- JAMES, WILLIAM (1842–1910)
- JAMES, WILLIAM (d. 1827)
James III., in 1471, there occurs, with other mention of the material, the following:—" Ane See also:elne and ane halve of See also:blue Tartane to lyne his gowne of cloth of See also:Gold." It is here obvious that the term is not restricted to particoloured chequered textures
.
In 1538 accounts were incurred for a Highland dress for King James V. on the occasion of a See also:hunting excursion in the See also:Highlands, in which there are charges for " variant cullorit See also:velvet," for " ane schort Heland coit," and for " Heland tartane to be See also:hose to the kinge's See also:- GRACE (Fr. grace, Lat. gratia, from grates, beloved, pleasing; formed from the root cra-, Gr. xav-, cf. xaipw, x6p,ua, Xapts)
- GRACE, WILLIAM GILBERT (1848– )
grace." Bishop John See also:Lesley, in his De origine, moribus, et See also:rebus gestis Scotorum, published in 1578, says of the See also:ancient and still-used dress of the Highlanders and Islanders, " all, both See also:noble and See also:common See also:people, wore mantles of one sort (except that the nobies preferred those of several colours)." See also:George See also:Buchanan, in his Rerum Scoticarum historia (1582), as translated by Monypenny (1612), says of the Highlanders, " They delight in marled clothes, specially that have any See also:long stripes of sundry colours; they love chiefly See also:purple and blue
.
Their predecessors used See also:short mantles or plaids of See also:divers colours sundry ways divided; and amongst some the same See also:custom is observed to this See also:day." A hint of clan tartan distinctions is given by See also:- MARTIN (Martinus)
- MARTIN, BON LOUIS HENRI (1810-1883)
- MARTIN, CLAUD (1735-1800)
- MARTIN, FRANCOIS XAVIER (1762-1846)
- MARTIN, HOMER DODGE (1836-1897)
- MARTIN, JOHN (1789-1854)
- MARTIN, LUTHER (1748-1826)
- MARTIN, SIR THEODORE (1816-1909)
- MARTIN, SIR WILLIAM FANSHAWE (1801–1895)
- MARTIN, ST (c. 316-400)
- MARTIN, WILLIAM (1767-1810)
Martin Martin in his Western Isles of Scotland (1903), which See also:work also contains a See also:minute description of the dress of the Highlanders and the manufacture of tartan
.
" Every isle," he observes, " differs from each other in their See also:fancy of making plaids, as to the stripes in breadth and colours
.
This See also:humour is as different through the mainland of the Highlands, in so far that they who have seen those places are able at the first view of a See also:man's See also:plaid to guess the See also:place of his See also:residence."
The following lines give a brief description of the colours of the tartans of the principal clans
.
The See also:kilt-tartan See also:colour is given in each See also:case; the plaid-tartans vary in slight particulars
.
See also:- CAMPBELL, ALEXANDER (1788–1866)
- CAMPBELL, BEATRICE STELLA (Mrs PATRICK CAMPBELL) (1865– )
- CAMPBELL, GEORGE (1719–1796)
- CAMPBELL, JOHN
- CAMPBELL, JOHN (1708-1775)
- CAMPBELL, JOHN CAMPBELL, BARON (1779-1861)
- CAMPBELL, JOHN FRANCIS
- CAMPBELL, LEWIS (1830-1908)
- CAMPBELL, REGINALD JOHN (1867— )
- CAMPBELL, THOMAS (1777—1844)
Campbell of See also:Breadalbane, See also:light See also:green, crossed with darker green, the stripes broad with narrow edging of yellow
.
Campbell of See also:Argyll, light green crossed with dark green, narrow See also:independent See also:cross lines of See also:- WHITE
- WHITE, ANDREW DICKSON (1832– )
- WHITE, GILBERT (1720–1793)
- WHITE, HENRY KIRKE (1785-1806)
- WHITE, HUGH LAWSON (1773-1840)
- WHITE, JOSEPH BLANCO (1775-1841)
- WHITE, RICHARD GRANT (1822-1885)
- WHITE, ROBERT (1645-1704)
- WHITE, SIR GEORGE STUART (1835– )
- WHITE, SIR THOMAS (1492-1567)
- WHITE, SIR WILLIAM ARTHUR (1824--1891)
- WHITE, SIR WILLIAM HENRY (1845– )
- WHITE, THOMAS (1628-1698)
- WHITE, THOMAS (c. 1550-1624)
white
.
See also:Cameron, See also:brick-red with broad chequered cross of same colour, edged white and with broad centre of ground colour, two independent cross lines of green
.
See also:Forbes, yellow green, crossed with broad dark-green lines, centred See also:black, independent cross lines yellow
.
See also:Fraser, red ground, See also:main cross lines red with deeper red centre edged with blue, independent cross lines blue
.
See also:Gordon, dark blue-green ground, with broad cross lines of lighter green, narrow centre See also:line yellow
.
Graeme, light green ground, crossed with, darker green in small chequer, independent crosslines dark green
.
See also:- GRANT (from A.-Fr. graunter, O. Fr. greanter for creanter, popular Lat. creantare, for credentare, to entrust, Lat. credere, to believe, trust)
- GRANT, ANNE (1755-1838)
- GRANT, CHARLES (1746-1823)
- GRANT, GEORGE MONRO (1835–1902)
- GRANT, JAMES (1822–1887)
- GRANT, JAMES AUGUSTUS (1827–1892)
- GRANT, ROBERT (1814-1892)
- GRANT, SIR ALEXANDER
- GRANT, SIR FRANCIS (1803-1878)
- GRANT, SIR JAMES HOPE (1808–1895)
- GRANT, SIR PATRICK (1804-1895)
- GRANT, U
- GRANT, ULYSSES SIMPSON (1822-1885)
Grant, See also:scarlet, with broad black-edged scarlet crossings, black independent cross lines
.
See also:Macdonald of Glengarry and Keppoch, red, with open broad blue cross lines, and two independent blue crossings
.
Macdonald of See also:Glencoe, green with broad dark-green See also:crossing, the whole covered with See also:fine red lines
.
Macdonald of Clanranald, light green with broad dark-green crossing, covered with fine red lines
.
See also:Macgregor, scarlet, with narrow scarlet cross lines, edged and centred blue, widely spaced
.
See also:Mackintosh, red with blue-edged and centred crossings of red, and independent blue cross lines
.
See also:Mackenzie, blue-green, broad crossing of same colour with darker edges, independent cross lines, alternately red and white, over the main crossings
.
See also:Macleod, green, with dark-green crossings, over crossings, every other square, a red line
.
See also:Macpherson, See also:pale See also:grey, four darker grey bars at crossings, the whole covered with red See also:double independent lines
.
See also:Munro, red with broad green stripe and narrow lines forming a check of black and yellow
.
See also:- MURRAY
- MURRAY (or MORAY), EARLS OF
- MURRAY (or MORAY), JAMES STUART, EARL OF (c. 1531-1570)
- MURRAY (or MORAY), SIR ROBERT (c. 1600-1673)
- MURRAY, ALEXANDER STUART (1841-1904)
- MURRAY, DAVID (1849– )
- MURRAY, EUSTACE CLARE GRENVILLE (1824–1881)
- MURRAY, JAMES (c. 1719-1794)
- MURRAY, JOHN
- MURRAY, JOHN (1778–1820)
- MURRAY, LINDLEY (1745–1826)
- MURRAY, LORD GEORGE (1694–1760)
- MURRAY, SIR JAMES AUGUSTUS HENRY (1837– )
- MURRAY, SIR JOHN (1841– )
Murray, green, See also:close crossings of darker green, independent lines red
.
See also:- STEWART, ALEXANDER TURNEY (1803-1876)
- STEWART, BALFOUR (1828-1887)
- STEWART, CHARLES (1778–1869)
- STEWART, DUGALD (1753-1828)
- STEWART, J
- STEWART, JOHN (1749—1822)
- STEWART, JULIUS L
- STEWART, SIR DONALD MARTIN (1824–19o0)
- STEWART, SIR HERBERT (1843—1885)
- STEWART, SIR WILLIAM (c. 1540—c. 1605)
- STEWART, STUART
- STEWART, WILLIAM (c. 1480-c. 1550)
Stewart, scarlet, deep coloured crossings with scarlet centre, fine widely spaced dark independent lines
.
See W. and A
.
See also:- SMITH
- SMITH, ADAM (1723–1790)
- SMITH, ALEXANDER (183o-1867)
- SMITH, ANDREW JACKSON (1815-1897)
- SMITH, CHARLES EMORY (1842–1908)
- SMITH, CHARLES FERGUSON (1807–1862)
- SMITH, CHARLOTTE (1749-1806)
- SMITH, COLVIN (1795—1875)
- SMITH, EDMUND KIRBY (1824-1893)
- SMITH, G
- SMITH, GEORGE (1789-1846)
- SMITH, GEORGE (184o-1876)
- SMITH, GEORGE ADAM (1856- )
- SMITH, GERRIT (1797–1874)
- SMITH, GOLDWIN (1823-191o)
- SMITH, HENRY BOYNTON (1815-1877)
- SMITH, HENRY JOHN STEPHEN (1826-1883)
- SMITH, HENRY PRESERVED (1847– )
- SMITH, JAMES (1775–1839)
- SMITH, JOHN (1579-1631)
- SMITH, JOHN RAPHAEL (1752–1812)
- SMITH, JOSEPH, JR
- SMITH, MORGAN LEWIS (1822–1874)
- SMITH, RICHARD BAIRD (1818-1861)
- SMITH, ROBERT (1689-1768)
- SMITH, SIR HENRY GEORGE WAKELYN
- SMITH, SIR THOMAS (1513-1577)
- SMITH, SIR WILLIAM (1813-1893)
- SMITH, SIR WILLIAM SIDNEY (1764-1840)
- SMITH, SYDNEY (1771-1845)
- SMITH, THOMAS SOUTHWOOD (1788-1861)
- SMITH, WILLIAM (1769-1839)
- SMITH, WILLIAM (c. 1730-1819)
- SMITH, WILLIAM (fl. 1596)
- SMITH, WILLIAM FARRAR (1824—1903)
- SMITH, WILLIAM HENRY (1808—1872)
- SMITH, WILLIAM HENRY (1825—1891)
- SMITH, WILLIAM ROBERTSON (1846-'894)
Smith, Tartans of the Clans of Scotland (185o); J
.
Sobieski See also:Stuart, Vestiarium Scoticum (1842) ; R
.
R
.
M'Ian, Clans of the Scottish Highlands (1845–46) ; J
.
Grant, Tartans of the Clans of Scotland (See also:Edinburgh, 1885)
.
End of Article: