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TURKESTAN , a name conventionally employed to designate the regions of Central See also:Asia which See also:lie between See also:Siberia on the N. and See also:Tibet, See also:India and See also:Afghanistan on the S., the western limit being the See also:Caspian See also:Sea and the eastern See also:Mongolia and the See also:Desert of See also:Gobi . Etymologically the See also:term is intended to indicate the regions inhabited by See also:Turkish races . How far this name was appropriate in the past need not be considered here; at See also:present the regions called Turkestan not only contain races which do not belong to the Turk See also:family, but it excludes races which do, e.g. the See also:Turks of the See also:Ottoman See also:Empire . Nevertheless the term, in its dual application of See also:West Turkestan and See also:East .or See also:Chinese Turkestan, has See also:long been established, and in See also:default of any better designations cannot very well be dispensed with . I.—WEST TURKESTAN West Turkestan is very nearly, though not quite, coincident with the territories which See also:Russia possesses and controls in Asia, Siberia excepted . Thus it includes (1) the See also:governor-generalship of Turkestan, embracing the provinces of See also:Ferghana, See also:Samarkand, See also:Semiryechensk, and Syr-darya; the provinces of See also:Akmolinsk and See also:Semipalatinsk, and sometimes that of See also:Turgai belonging to the governor-generalship of the See also:Steppes; the Transcaspian region; and the semi-See also:independent states of See also:Bokhara and See also:Khiva . Its See also:total See also:area amounts approximately to 1,290,000 sq. m . See also:Physical See also:Geography.—Physically this region is divided into two sharply contrasted parts, the mountainous and highland See also:country in the east and the See also:flat steppes and deserts in the west and See also:north . The former are sufficiently described under the heading TIAN-SHAN . It will be enough to say here that the mountainous region belongs to the See also:great orographical flange which runs from See also:south-west to north-east along the north-western margin of the great See also:plateau of Central Asia . Hence it consists (I) partly of ranges, mostly See also:snow-capped, which stretch from south-west to north-east, and which in several cases terminate en See also:echelon on the See also:verge of the desert, and (2) partly of ranges which strike away from the above at various angles, but in a predominantly north-western direction . The latter, including such ranges as the Chingiz-tau, Chu-11i Mountains, Kandyk-tau and See also:Khan-tau, the Ferghana range, the Kara-tau and the Nura-tau, are geologically of later origin than the great border ranges of the Tianshan proper, e.g .
Trans-Alai, Alai, Kokshal-tau, See also: V . Mushketov under the appropriate name of Turanian See also:basin—the Kara-tau Mountains, between the Chu and the Syr-darya See also:rivers, being considered as the dividing See also:line between the two . The Balkash plains, more than woo ft. above the sea, and covered with See also:clay, with a girdle of See also:loess at their See also:foot, are well drained by the Ili and other feeders of See also:Lake Balkash and support the numerous flocks and herds of the See also:Kirghiz . To the south-west the clayey See also:soil becomes saline . There is the See also:Famine See also:steppe (Bekpak-See also:Bala), while in the Ak-See also:kum steppe, which surrounds Lake Karakul, large areas consist of nothing but sands, partly shifting . The plains and lowlands of the Turanian basin are subdivided by a line See also:drawn from north-east to south-west along a slight range of hills See also:running from the See also:sources of the See also:Ishim towards the south-east corner of the Caspian (Bujnurd and See also:Elburz edge of See also:Khorasan) . This See also:low range, which most probably separated the lowlands of the Aral-Caspian region (submerged during the See also:Post-See also:Pliocene See also:period) from the higher plains which had emerged by the end of the See also:Tertiary period, now divides the Transcaspian steppes from' the somewhat different higher plains . In the Turanian basin the contrast between desert and See also:oasis is much stronger than in the Balkash region . Fertile soil, or rather soil which can be rendered fertile by See also:irrigation, is limited to a narrow See also:terrace of loess along the foot of the mountains, and is surrounded by barren deserts . Even where the loess stretches out over terraces at some distance from the mountains, as in the south-east of the Transcaspian region, it can be cultivated only when irrigated . Two rivers only—the Syr and the Amu—succeed in getting across the desert and reaching the Sea of Aral . But their former tributaries no longer run their full course: the See also:glacier-fed Zarafshan dries up amid the gardens of Bokhara soon after emerging from the highlands; and the Tejeff and the See also:Murghab lose themselves in the recesses of the Kara-kum desert . The only tributaries which the Amu retains are those whose whole course is within the high-lands . In the north such formerly important tributaries of the Syr-darya as the Chu, with its sub-tributary the Sary-su, now dry up some hundreds of See also:miles before reaching the See also:main stream . The whole area is now undergoing See also:geological changes on a vast See also:scale . Rivers have changed their courses, and lakes their outlines . Far away from their present shores the geologist finds See also:Desiccation. indubitable signs of the See also:recent presence of lakes in the shells they have See also:left amid the sands . Traces of former rivers and channels, which were the main See also:arteries of prosperous regions within the period of written See also:history, have now disappeared . Of the highly developed civilizations which See also:grew up and flourished in See also:Bactria, Bokhara and Samarkand the last survivals are now undergoing rapid obliteration with the simultaneous desiccation of the rivers, and lakes . The great " See also:Blue Sea of Central Asia, the Sea of Aral, which at a recent See also:epoch (Post-Glacial) extended south-west as far as Sary-kamysh, and the shells of which are found north and east of its present shores 5o to 200 ft. above its present level (157 ft. above the ocean, and 248 above the Caspian), now occupies but a small portion of its former extent . It fills a shallow depression which is drying up with astonishing rapidity, so that the See also:process of desiccation can be shown on surveys separated by intervals of only ten years; large parts of it, like Aibughir Gulf, have' dried up since the Russians took See also:possession of its shores . The whole country is dotted over with lakes, which are rapidly disappearing under the hot winds of the deserts . See also:Geology.'—Like the highlands of eastern Asia, those of Turkestan are mostly built up on Pre-See also:Cambrian gneisses and metamorphic slates, resting upon granites, syenites, old See also:orthoclase porphyries, and the like . These upheavals date from the remotest geological ages; and since the See also:Primary epoch a triangular See also:continent having its 1 R . Pumpelly and others, Explorations in Turkestan (See also:Washington, 1905), contains references to the geological literature to the date of publication . See also:apex turned towards the north-east, as See also:Africa and See also:America have theirs pointing southward, See also:rose in the See also:middle of what now constitutes Asia . It is only in the See also:outer foldings of the highlands that Palaeozoic fossiliferous deposits are found—See also:Silurian, Devonian, Carboniferous and Permo-Carboniferous . Within that period the See also:principal valleys were excavated, and their See also:lower parts have been filled up subsequently with See also:Jurassic, Cretaceous and Tertiary deposits . One of the most striking instances of this is the very thick Cretaceous and Tertiary deposits which See also:cover the bottom of the valley of the Vakhsh (right tributary of the Amu) and are continued for about 300 M. to the north-east, as far as the Alai valley—probably along the edge of the Pamir plateau . The deposits of the Secondary period have not maintained their See also:horizontal position . While upheavals having a north-eastern strike continued to take place after the Carboniferous epoch,' another See also:series of upheavals, having a north-western strike, and occasioned by the expansion of diabases, dolerites, melaphyres and andesites, occurred later, subsequently at least to the See also:close of the Tertiary period, if not also before it, dislocating former chains and raising rocks to the highest levels by the addition of new upheavals to the older ones . Through-out the Triassic and Jurassic periods nearly all Turkestan remained a continent indented by gulfs and lagoons of the south See also:European Triassic and Jurassic sea . Immense fresh-See also:water lakes, in which were deposited layers of See also:plants (now yielding See also:coal), filled up the depressions of the country . Cretaceous and Tertiary deposits occur extensively along the edge of the highlands . Upper and Middle Cretaceous, containing See also:phosphates, See also:gypsum, See also:naphtha, See also:sulphur and See also:alum, attain thicknesses of 2000 and 5000 ft. in See also:Hissar . Representatives of all the Tertiary formations are met with in Turkestan; but while in the highlands the strata are See also:coast-deposits, they assume an open sea See also:character in the lowlands, and their See also:rich fossil See also:fauna furnishes See also:evidence of the See also:gradual shallowing of that sea, until at last, after the Sarmathian period, it became a closed Mediterranean . During the Post-Pliocene period this sea See also:broke up into several parts, See also:united by narrow straits . The connexion of Lake Balkash with the Sea of Aral can hardly be doubted ; but this portion of the great sea was the first to be divided . While the Sea of Aral remained in connexion with the Caspian, the desiccation of the Lake Balkash basin, and its break-up into smaller See also:separate basins, were already going on . The See also:Quaternary epoch is represented by vast morainic deposits in the valleys of the Tian-shan . About Khan-Tengri glaciers descended to a level of 6800 ft. above the sea,2 and discharged into the wide open valleys or syrts . It is most probable that, when See also:allowance has been made for the obliteration of glacial markings, and the region has been better explored, it will appear that the glaciation of Turkestan was on a scale at least as vast as that of the Himalayas . In the lowlands the Aral-Caspian deposits, which it is difficult to separate sharply from the later Tertiary, cover the whole of the area . They contain shells of molluscs now inhabiting the Sea of Aral, and in their petrographical features are exactly like those of the lower See also:Volga . The limits of the Post-Pliocene Aral-Caspian sea have not yet been fully traced . It extended some 200 M. north and more than 90 in, east of the present Aral shores . A narrow strait connected it with Lake Balkash . The Ust-Urt plateau and the Mugojar Mountains pre-vented it from spreading north-westward, and a narrow channel connected it along the Uzboi with the Caspian, which sent a broad See also:tuff to the east, spread up to the Volga, and was connected by the lanych with the See also:Black Sea basin . Great See also:interest, geological and See also:historical, thus attaches to the recent changes undergone by this basin . Since the theory of geological cataclysms was abandoned, and that of slow modifications of the crust of the See also:earth accepted, new data have been obtained in the Aral-Caspian region to show that the See also:rate of modification after the close of the Glacial period, although still very slow, was faster than had been supposed from the evidence of similar changes now going on in See also:Europe and America . The effects produced by desiccating agencies are beyond all comparison more powerful than those which result from the earthquakes that are so frequent in Turkestan . All along the See also:base of the highlands, from See also:Khojent to See also:Vyernyi, earthquakes are frequent;' but their effects lie beyond the See also:scope of our observational methods . See also:Climate.—The climate of West Turkestan is exceedingly dry and See also:continental . Although the country is approximately comprised within the latitudes of See also:Sicily and See also:Lyons, it has a south See also:Norwegian See also:January and a See also:Persian summer . Temperatures of more than too° F. in the shade are See also:common, and the See also:heat is rendered still more unbearable by the reflection from a soil destitute of vegetation . The See also:winter is for the most See also:part so See also:cold that the See also:average temperature of January is below the freezing point, and even reaches o° F . Snow falls for several months on the lower Syr-darya, and, were it not blown away by the winds, sledge-communication would be possible . This See also:river is frozen for an average of 123 days every See also:year in its lower parts and nearly too days at Perovsk . At See also:Tashkent there is snow during two months and temperatures of — to° F. have been observed; on the other hand the maximum observation ' I . V . Mushketov's Turkestan (pp . 35, 681) seems to justify this conclusion . s See I . Ignatyev, in Izvestia of Russ . Geog . See also:Soc . (1887), vol. See also:xxiii . ' Ibid.; also See also:Orlov in Mem. of Kazan Naturalists (1873), vol. iii . is io8° . To the south of Khojent the winter becomes more See also:clement . See also:Absence of See also:rain is the distinctive feature of the climate . Although it rains and snows heavily on the mountains, only 11 in. of rain and snow fall throughout the year at Tashkent, at the base of the highlands; and the steppes of the lower Amu have less . A few showers are all that fall from the almost invariably cloudless See also:sky above the Transcaspian steppes . Fauna.—The fauna of Turkestan belongs to the zoo-See also:geographical domain of See also:northern Asia, and is only differentiated by the presence of See also:species which have disappeared from the peripheral parts of the Old See also:World and now find a See also:refuge in the remotest regions of the uninhabited plateau . From the Palaeoarctic region it is distinguished by the presence of Himalayan species . The distinctive See also:animal of the Pamir plateau is the magnificent Ovis poli (conjectured to be the ancestor of the common See also:sheep) . In the alpine tracts of the Tian-shan, on the See also:borders of the Pamir, their horns and skulls are frequently met with, but' there the place of the species is now taken by Ovis karelini . The See also:wild See also:horse, which occurred in See also:Poland a few centuries ago, was discovered by Prezhevalsky in the highlands of Dzungaria . The wild See also:camel inhabits the lonely plateaus south of the Ala-shan . The other mammals of Turkestan are mostly those which are met with elsewhere in north Asia . The Himalayan See also:bear (Ursus isabellinus) has its See also:home on the Pamir, and the smaller Leuconyx up to the highest levels on the Tianshan . Antelopes, Lepus lehmanni, Lagomys rutilus, various species of Arvicolae, and the Himalayan long-tailed See also:marmot (Arctomys caudatus), the most characteristic inhabitant of the alpine meadows, are the only mammals of the Pamir proper . In the alpine region are found the See also:badger (Meles taxus), the See also:ermine (Putorius ermineus) and six other Mustelidae, the wild See also:dog (Canis alpinus), the common and the black-eared See also:fox (C. melanotis), while the corsac fox (C. corsac) is met with only on the plains . Two species of See also:lynx, the See also:cheetah (Felis jubata), F. See also:manul, and F. irbis, must be added to the above . The See also:tiger is met with only on the lower Amu-darya, except when it wanders to the alpine region in pursuit of the maral See also:deer (Cervus maral) . The See also:jackal is characteristic of the steppes; it banishes the wolves and foxes . See also:Hares are represented by several species, Lepus lehmanni being the most characteristic . Both the common and the long-tailed marmot (A. baibacinus and A. caudatus) live at the foot of the mountains, as well as four species of Spermophilus, three of voles, two of the See also:mouse and three of the See also:hamster . The Meriones (four species) and the See also:jerboa (five species) are only met with in the steppe region . Of ruminants, beside the sheep (O. poli, 0. karelini, O. nigrimontana, O. heinsii), we find one moufflon (Musimon vignei), formerly known only in the Himalayas, the Chinese See also:antelope (Antilope subgutturosa) and the See also:saiga antelope in the steppes, the Siberian See also:ibex and another See also:goat, the See also:yak, the zebu or See also:Indian ox, the common ox, the camel and the See also:dromedary . The wild See also:boar is common in the See also:reed thickets along the rivers and lakes, where it stays during the winter, migrating to the high-lands in summer . The See also:hedgehog and See also:porcupine are common in the plains . No fewer than 385 species of avifauna are recorded, most of them being middle-European and Mediterranean . A large number were formerly known only in the Himalayas, or in See also:Persia, while others have their origin in East Asia . The commonest are mostly European acquaintances . The See also:insect fauna is truly multitudinous .
Among the See also:Lepidoptera of the Pamir there is an interesting mixture of Tian-shan with Himalayan species
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Grum-Grshimailo found on the Pamir the butterfly Colias nastes, a species characteristic of Labrador and See also:Lapland; like the alpine plants which bear See also:witness to a Glacial period See also:flora in the Himalayas, this butterfly is a survival of the Glacial period fauna of the Pamir.* Of 5o species of molluscs found in Turkestan quite one See also:half are See also:peculiar to the region
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Flora.—As a whole the flora of Turkestan is identical with that of Central Asia, which was formerly continued by geo-botanists as far west as the steppes of Russia, but which must now be considered as a separate region subdivided into two—the Central Asian proper and that of .the Gobi
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It has its own habitus, notwithstanding the number of species it has in common with Siberia and south-east Russia on the one hand and with the Himalayas on the other, and this habitus is due to the dryness of the climate and the consequent changes undergone by the soil
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Towards the end of the Glacial period the Tian-shan Mountains had a flora very like that of northern See also:Caucasia, combining the characteristics of the flora of the European See also:Alps and the flora of the Altai, while the prairies had a flora very much like that of the south See also:Russian steppes
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During the See also: P . Fedchenko's " Travels in Turkestan " (vols. xi., xix., xxi., See also:xxiv. and See also:xxvi. of the same Izvestia), forming a series of monographs by specialists which See also:deal with separate divisions of the animal and See also:vegetable See also:kingdom (the flora by E . A . Regel) ; Oshanin's Zoo-Geographical Problems in Turkestan (Tashkent, i 88o) ; G . E . Grum-Grshimailo's " Flora and Fauna of Pamir," in Izvestia of Russ . Geog . Soc . (1886) ; See also:Works of the Aral-Caspian Expedition . in. the See also:immigration from the Central Asian plateau of such species as could adapt themselves to the dry climate and soil, in the disappearance of European and Altaic species from all the more arid parts of the region, in the survival of steppe species, and in the See also:adaptation of many of the existing species to the needs of an arid and extreme climate and a saline soil . 1 The Pamir vegetation and that of the Aral-Caspian steppes constitute two types with numberless intermediate gradations . There is no arboreal vegetation on the Pamir, except a few willows and tamarisks along the rivers . See also:Mountain and valley alike are carpeted with soft grass, various species of Festuca predominating . In the immediate vicinity of water the sedge (Caret physoides) grows, and sporadic patches of See also:Allium . To these may be added a few See also:Ranunculaceae, some Myosotis, the common See also:Taraxacum, one species of Chamomilla, and a few See also:Leguminosae . In the north and west the Stipa of the Russian steppes supersedes Festuca and affords splendid pasture for the herds of the Kara-Kirghiz . In the See also:gorges and on the better-watered slopes of the mountains the herbaceous vegetation becomes luxuriant . Besides the above-named there are many other Gramineae, such as Lasiagrostis splendens, the whole seas of Scabiosae . Eremurus, 6 to 7 ft. in height, forms thickets along with Scorodosma foetida . The northern slopes of the 'Alai See also:chain are richer in trees . Up to 12,000 ft. full-grown specimens occur of the archa or See also:juniper (Juniperus pseudo-Sabina), characteristic of the whole northern slopes of the Turkestan highlands, the See also:poplar, spruces, cedars, a very few birches (B . See also:Sogdiana), and a copious undergrowth of shrubs See also:familiar in European gardens, such as See also:Rhododendron chrysanthum, Sorbus aucuparia (rowan), Berberis heteropoda (berberry), Lonicera Tatarica (See also:honeysuckle) and Crataegus (haw-See also:thorn) . Farther east and north comes the Turkestan See also:pine (Picea Schrenkiana), while at lower levels there grow willows, black and white poplars, See also:tamarisk, Celtis, as well as Elaeagnus (wild See also:olive), See also:Hippo phae rhamnoides (sallow thorn), Rubusfructicosus (See also:blackberry), Prunus spinosa (blackthorn) and P . Armcniaca (See also:apricot) . Thecharacteristic poplar, Populus diversifolia, and the See also:dwarf Acer Lobeliivery different from the European maple—also occur . The above applies to most of the highlands of the Tian-shan . The drier See also:southern slopes are quite devoid of arboreal vegetation . On the northern slopes, at the higher levels, Juniperus pseudo-Sabina is the only See also:tree that grows on the mountains, and luxuriant meadow See also:grasses cover the syrts . Lower down, at 7500 to 8000 ft. the coniferous See also:zone begins, characterized by the Picea Schrenkiana . Of course the juniper and a few other See also:deciduous trees also occur . The richest zone is that which comes next, extending downwards to 5000 and 4500 ft . There See also:woods of See also:birch, several species of poplar, the maple (Acer Semenovii), and thick underwoods spread over the mountain slopes . Orchards of apple and apricot surround the villages., The meadows are clothed with a rich vegetation—numberless Paeoniae, Scabiosae, See also:Convolvulaceae, Campanulae, Eremurus, See also:Umbelliferae, See also:Gallium, See also:Rosaceae, Altheae, Glycyrrhizae, Scorodosma foetida and Gramineae . But as soon as the soil loses its fertile humus it produces only a few Phlomis, Alhagi camelorum, Psammae, Salsolaceae, Artemisiae, Peganum and some poppies and Chamomillae, but only, in the See also:spring . The invading steppe plants appear everywhere in patches in the Turkestan meadows . The " culture " or " apricot " zone is followed by the See also:prairie See also:belt, in which black-earth plants (Stipa and the like) struggle for existence against invading Central Asian forms . And then come the lowlands and deserts with their moving sandy barkhans, shors and takyrs (see TRANSCASPIAN REGION) . Two species of poplar (P. pruinosa and P. diversifolia), Elaeagnus angustsfolia, the ash, and a few willows grow along the rivers . Large areas are wholly destitute of vegetation, and after See also:crossing too m. of such a desert the traveller will occasionally come upon a See also:forest of saksaul (See also:Anabasis Amnsodendron) . Contorted stems, sometimes of considerable thickness, very hard, and covered with a See also:grey cracked bark, rise out of the See also:sand, bearing See also:green plumes with small greyish leaves and See also:pink See also:fruit . Sometimes the tree is a See also:mere See also:knot peeping above the sand with a sheaf of thin branches . In spring, however, the steppe assumes quite another aspect, being clothed, except where the sands are shifting, with an abundance of vegetation . Persian species penetrate into Bokhara and the region of the upper Amu . Vegetable Products.—As already stated the climate of Turkestan varies considerably,from north to south . In Akmolinsk and Semiryechensk most of the kinds of See also:corn which characterize Middle Russia are grown . South of the Chu and the Syr-darya gardening is a considerable See also:industry; and, although See also:rye and See also:wheat continue to be the See also:chief crops, the cultivation of the apple, and especially of the apricot, acquired importance . Attempts are also made to cultivate the See also:vine . The inhabitants of the neighbourhood of Tashkent and Samarkand, as well as those of the much more northern but better sheltered Kulja oasis, add the cultivation of the See also:almond, See also:pomegranate and fig . Vines are grown and See also:cotton planted in those districts . Finally, about Khojent and in Ferghana, where the climate is milder still, the vine and the pistachio tree cover the hills, while See also:agriculture and See also:horticulture have reached a high degree of perfec- I See Krasnov's researches in Izvestia of Russ . Geog . Soc . (1887), vol. xxiii . See also:Lion . Successful attempts are being made to grow the See also:tea-plant in the Transcaspian region . Large See also:numbers of oleaginous plants are cultivated, such as See also:sunflower . Agriculture.—The arable See also:land, being limited to the irrigated terraces of loess, occupies little more than 2 % of the whole area of West Turkestan . The See also:remainder is divided between pasture land (less than 44%) and desert (54%) . Owing to a very equitable distribution of irrigation water in accordance with Moslem See also:law, agriculture and gardening have reached a high See also:stage of development in the oases . Altogether close upon 4,000,000 acres are irrigated, and the crops are usually taken every year . Wheat, See also:barley, See also:millet, See also:pease, lentils, See also: |